Content

• Steps
• Warning

There are over 1,000 species of pollen, an insect shaped similar to a caterpillar or a small white aphid. They congregate and multiply in large numbers on the underside of the leaves. The larvae and adult pollen damage the plant by directly absorbing the sap and transmitting disease to the plant.Once the pollen is heavily infested it is very difficult to eradicate. You may need to apply various measures over the course of a few weeks, or even prune the tree.

Steps

Part 1 of 4: Using natural solutions

1. 

   Smoking the pollen. Use a hand vacuum cleaner or hold the end of a household vacuum cleaner hose to remove pollen. Walk around pollen infested plants and suck the pest under the leaves and canopy of the plant. This is a quick, direct method that eliminates every stage of the pollen's life cycle, from being a larva to becoming an adult rodent. Vacuuming is most effective if used as soon as you notice a pollen infestation.
   • Dispose of the garbage bag in the vacuum cleaner when it is full of pollen. Put the garbage bag in the vacuum cleaner in the plastic garbage bag and tie it tightly, then put in the freezer for at least 24 hours to kill the insects. Once all of the pollen is dead, you can put the trash bag in the trash.

2. 

   
   
   Eliminate seriously infected foliage. Use pruning scissors to remove infected plant parts to the maximum extent within the limit without lethal damage. You can also remove pollen-infested leaves with your hand. Look for white eggs and wingless "crawling insects" on the underside of the leaves. Severely infested leaves can be wrapped in a waxy liquid - the sweet liquid produced when the larvae suck on the sap. These leaves may also discolor and wither.
   • Only pruning within the limits allows maintaining a healthy state of the plant. For weak plants infested with pollen, you should only remove the leaves of the most severely affected plants. For sturdy plants, you might consider cutting infected branches close to the trunk to prevent the spread.
   • Be sure to dispose of infected branches properly. Incinerate or isolate infected branches in a sealed bag. If you don't handle it carefully, the pollen can re-infect.

3. 

   
   
   Prepare to handle many times. Pollen develop through 4 stages: eggs, larvae, pupae and adult beetle. Each method usually targets only certain stages in the pollen's life cycle. That way, if you use a method to get rid of the adult bugs, you need to keep working until all the eggs have grown into adults. You will have to respond quickly and patiently to handling it to ensure that newly emerged adult pollen do not lay more eggs.
   • Only larvae and adult bugs are actually harmful to host plants. However, younger pollen bugs will also develop into more damaging forms if left untreated.
   • To determine the best treatment timeframe, you need to examine the lifespan and developmental stages of a specific pollen species. There are many species of pollen - including Silverleaf, Fig, Greenhouse, and Bandedwing species; Each species has a different lifespan.

4. 

   
   
   Wash plants with a soap solution. Pour a little dish soap into 1 liter of water and dissolve. Pay special attention to the underside of the leaves, where most of the pollen live. Note that this method will only kill adult bugs. Wash every 3-4 days to remove adult bugs from hatching pupae. Depending on the species of the pollen, you may need to continue doing this for several weeks until it is gone.
   • If you are using a more concentrated soap solution, wash the plants at the end of the day to avoid burning the foliage.

5. 

   Using natural enemies. There are many insects in the wild that love to eat pollen, and you may be able to control an infection by choosing the right predator to include in your ecosystem. The type of predator you use will depend on the pollen species. You might consider using lace beetles, ladybirds, catch beetles, big eyed beetles, wasps, and stink bugs.
   • Be careful when bringing foreign insects into your garden. Predators can deal with pollen infestation, but it may not be long before you find yourself dealing with new bugs even more! Please do your homework before doing this.
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Part 2 of 4: Using traps

1. 

   Use yellow sticky paper. You can buy these traps at a garden store or make your own. How to do it: apply a permanent adhesive to a hard yellow surface (cardboard or wood). Glue, honey, machine oil, or Vaseline cream are good options. It is believed that pollen is often attracted to the yellow color. When these bugs move to the trap, they will sit down and stick to the glue.
   • If you make the trap yourself, you may need to reapply when it is dry. Glue, for example, can dry within a few dozen minutes or hours. Machine oil or Vaseline cream may not be as effective as quickly, but it may last longer.
   • Be sure to remove the traps if you are using plant sprays or natural predators to catch the pollen.

2. 

   Place the trap near the leaves of the plant. Pollen often congregate on the underside of leaves, and your traps will be more likely to catch these insects if placed near their natural habitat.

3. 

   Know when to clear the trap. You can remove the traps when most of the pollen is dead and you can only catch a few per day. These traps are also capable of killing the pollen's natural enemies, so they are not an appropriate method for dealing with low-level pollen infestation unless predators do not. can be controlled. If the pollen population has recovered and returned then then you may want to consider resetting the trap. advertisement

Part 3 of 4: Repelling the pollen

1. 

   Repel pollen with plants that are symbiotic. Like dry lotus, French and Mexican marigolds are often effective at repelling pollen. Plant these plants in your garden to prevent the return of pests! However, keep in mind that this is only a preventive measure, not an effective solution when the plant has been infested by the pollen.
   • Pot marigolds and chrysanthemums are not very effective at repelling pollen. Make sure to use the right plants! If you are unsure, visit a nursery and ask about plants with symbiotic relationships that can repel pollen.

2. 

   Use a mixture of water and soap to spray the plants. Mix 2: 5 rubbing alcohol with water in a 1 liter spray bottle, then add one tablespoon of dish soap. Spray a layer of the solution on leaves at risk of pollen. If you do not spray too much, this mixture will not harm most plants but will work to prevent the pollen from producing larvae.
   • Consider using natural oils, such as neem oil.

3. 

   Spread earthworm manure on the base of the plant. It is believed that vermi-compost, when added to a fertilizer for pollen-infested plants, can repel the insect within weeks or months. Furthermore, vermi-compost is a nutrient-rich fertilizer that can stimulate plant growth. You can ask to buy vermi-compost at gardening stores.

4. 

   Cover the soil with reflective material. Spread a layer of aluminum foil or reflective plastic over the ground around vulnerable plants. This will make it much more difficult for the adult pollen to identify a host plant, making it harder for them to lay eggs.
   • This step requires extra care when watering your plants. Trees covered with plastic material need to be irrigated with a drip irrigation system.
   • Do not use the coating in hot weather. Plants will become hot if they are over-covered.
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Part 4 of 4: Using chemicals

1. 

   Understand the risks and benefits of using pesticides. On the one hand, commercial insecticides are sometimes an effective way to quickly destroy pests. Pollen, on the other hand, has a reputation for being resistant to chemical products. Furthermore, these chemicals are often toxic to other organisms in the ecological environment, including plants and non-harmful insects in the garden, domestic animals and wildlife, even harmful to the environment. your family. You should only use chemical products as a last resort.

2. 

   Note that pollen easily develops resistance to pesticides. The fact is that the eggs and pupae are resistant to most common insecticides. If you do use chemicals, make sure to turn the medicines around after a few days to prevent the bugs from adapting.Even if you do this, the pollen is more likely to adapt. You could unintentionally create an extremely hard to treat super pollen! advertisement

Warning

• You should do this as many times as possible to maintain the effect.
• The pesticides can be effective but are also harmful when swallowed. Many of the insecticides used to control pollen are commonly associated with mortality and a significant decrease in honey bees, a key factor in pollination of flowering plants.