Content

• Steps
• What you need

Hamsters include many varieties; most of them live for about two to three years. Hamsters are nocturnal animals, meaning they usually sleep all day. However, the Dwarf guinea pig is active at sunset, meaning that they are most active when the sun is about to set. To ensure that your hamster is happy and healthy, you need to feed it properly, give it adequate play / exercise, and clean the cage regularly.

Steps

Part 1 of 6: Buy a guinea pig

1. 

   Find a place to sell guinea pigs. If you want this lovely four-legged friend, go to a pet store, to a hamster breeder (if you want to find a hamster with a special color of fur) or go to an animal aid society to pick it up. one child. Hamsters are quite cheap. You will have to spend much more on the toys, cage and health care for it.

2. 

   
   
   Choose a healthy hamster. A healthy guinea pig should have clean ears, a clean, dry tail, a small round belly, free from feathery spots or lumps (except for the musk glands on their thighs which many people mistake for cuts or scales). , clear eyes, strong teeth, not growing too long or arching upward.
   • Be careful if the fur around the hamster's tail is wet; This is a sign of "wet tail" disease - a bacterial disease that spreads quickly through contact with other guinea pigs. The hamster's coat should be dry and clean. Wet tail is treatable with an antibiotic cream, but when choosing a hamster to keep, you should try to find a really healthy one.

3. 

   
   
   Consider the size of the guinea pig you want to keep. The Syrian guinea pig can reach 13-18 cm in length as an adult. The Dwarf Campbell and Dwarf Winter White guinea pigs can reach around 7.5 - 10 cm. The Chinese breed can grow to 10-13 cm in length. Like Roborovski as an adult only reaches about 7.5 cm in length.

4. 

   
   
   Think about your guinea pig's colors. Syrian hamsters are mostly golden yellow, but they can also come in a variety of colors. Dwarf Campbell guinea pigs are usually grayish brown with black stripes along the back and white belly feathers. Dwarf Winter White guinea pigs have white fur with a gray or purple hue. The Dwarf Roborovski hamster has a golden brown color and a white belly. The Chinese guinea pig is dark brown and has a cream belly.

5. 

   Offer to hold the guinea pig in the palm of your hand. If the seller or breeder (depending on where you are buying) does not want you to lift the hamster, ask them to place the hamster in the palm of their hand. Avoid buying a hamster that is aggressive or scratched. You also do not buy any mouse too panic to run away, hide and refuse to come out. The mouse that is curious to smell but does not immediately climb into your hand is the mouse you should choose. A curious mouse that nibbles on your hand (as many puppies do) is also a good choice. advertisement

Part 2 of 6: Preparing a new home for your hamster

1. 

   Choose the right cage. Your guinea pig will most comfortably live in cages that are at least 0.3 square meters, or 76x38 centimeters. The cage height must also be over 30 cm to be able to fit the correct size wheel, about 25-30 cm for the Syrian hamster and 20 cm for the Dwarf hamster. A glass aquarium (if the minimum size is up) is a great home for your guinea pig. However, its downside is the lack of ventilation, so make sure the lid is made of a mesh so that air can circulate. An IKEA Detolf is also a great option. Another option is a cage with a “cat litter with a wire mesh top” cage that has very good natural ventilation. Make sure not to let direct sunlight into the cage, as the hamster can get overheated as strong light will be amplified when passing through the aquarium glass. Unless you buy second hand, the aquarium can be quite expensive. You can also buy wire mesh cages, which have very good ventilation.

2. 

   Place the cage in a safe place. Make sure there is good air circulation. Do not place the hamster cage directly in front of a hot window. Find a quiet place away from other household pets such as dogs and cats. This will help reduce the stress of your hamster. Never let a dog or cat come into contact with a guinea pig.

3. 

   Make sure your hamster does not escape. You will be amazed at the intelligence of the guinea pig in his escape route skill. Make sure the holes are sealed and that there are no parts that can loosen and open the hamster's way out. Make sure your hamster cannot get through the wire rods or get stuck. The distance between the spokes should not exceed 0.7 cm.

4. 

   Understand your guinea pig's territorial instincts. The Syrian hamster lives alone. Their territorial nature begins to manifest at around 5-8 weeks of age, and they will critically fight another guinea pig if placed in the same place. Many Dwarf guinea pigs can be caged together if they have bonded since childhood.
   • There are three species of Dwarf guinea pigs (Campbell's Russian dwarf, Winter White Dwarf, and Roborovski) that can be lived alone or in pairs if properly acquainted with each other. Do not pair different guinea pigs. Mating hamsters should not stay together for long periods, as they can fight and cause injury.

5. 

   Prepare the bedding in your hamster's cage. The lining should be at least 7.5 cm thick. Shavings of certain types of wood such as pine and cedar are not good for guinea pigs as they can cause many health problems.These woods can cause respiratory problems and may contain some toxic essential oils. However, the poplar lining does not contain toxic essential oils and is absolutely safe for your guinea pig. Never line hamster cages with cotton fibers. Cotton is dangerous to guinea pigs because they are indigestible, and the cotton fibers can wrap around the hamster's legs, cutting off their blood circulation and possibly killing them. Paper lining is quite safe. Even toilet paper is great for nesting a hamster; However, make sure you don't use scented paper. advertisement

Part 3 of 6: Provide food and water

1. 

   Feed your hamster every day. Give your hamster enough food to fill both cheeks, about 15 grams for the Syrian hamster or 8 grams for the Dwarf. Make sure to replace new foods in the bowl every day. Hamsters have a hoarding nature, so they will hide food in hidden places. They will be very stressful if you take them away. If you are concerned about the quality of the food your hamster is hiding, replace the food in the correct places where it is stored.
   • Choose terracotta or metal bowls for your hamster's food. A food bowl made of these materials is most suitable simply because your guinea pig will eat the plastic bowl.

2. 

   Always have water available for the rat to drink. Hamsters do not drink much water, but when they are thirsty they should have water to drink immediately. Do not keep water in the bowl as it will get dirty easily, and your hamster can get wet and die. Instead, use a pot of drinking water for your hamster. Change the water daily if necessary to keep it clean, or at least every 3 days. You can rinse the water bottle by adding some rice to it with a little water and shaking it vigorously. The rice will dislodge the moss in the jar. Be sure to empty the pot completely before refilling it with water and placing it in the cage.

3. 

   Use fortified pellets or block foods. The mix of nuts causes your hamster to choose tastier, less nutritious things. A hamster should be given pellets or cubes as the main dish, followed by a mixture of nuts. Make sure your hamster is eating a large proportion of the pellets before giving the seeds.

4. 

   Spread food around the cage and hide it in toys or pipes. Encourage your hamster to look. If you put the food in a bowl, your guinea pig may end up overweight and lose interest in physical activity.

5. 

   Avoid giving the rat human food. These include candy, pasta, raw meat / fish, sugar and dessert sweets. Hamsters can have diabetes. Foods that you think are not high in sugar are actually too much sugar for your hamster and can be detrimental to their health.

6. 

   Enjoy a delicious treat for your hamster. Regularly feed your guinea pig 2 or 3 times a week. Hamster favorite foods include carrots, cucumbers, apples, bananas, sweet peppers, lettuce, celery, kale, collard greens, dandelion leaves, and many other vegetables and fruits. Some of the above foods can be incorporated into your guinea pig's daily diet. Pet stores also sell hamster favorite snacks such as yoghurt cakes, guinea pig chocolates or chew logs. Some fruits and vegetables are NOT safe for your hamster. Onions, almonds, peas, potatoes, nuts, avocados, chives, eggplants, garlic, leeks, American lettuce, tomatoes and citrus fruits are absolutely must be avoided.

7. 

   Provide a rodent for your hamster. Rods come in many sizes, colors and flavors. Hamster teeth are constantly growing, so they have to be worn down. Chew sticks are good for this activity in your hamster. You can try giving your hamster a variety of rodents until you find the one that you like best. Some guinea pigs stay away from all types of rodents. If this is the case, watch out for your guinea pig from gnawing on other things around where it lives, such as the spokes of the cage. advertisement

Part 4 of 6: Help your hamster adapt

1. 

   Leave your hamster alone to explore its new home. The first day you bring your hamster home, place it in the cage with food and water and leave it alone. Cover the cage with a thin cloth to allow him to explore his new home comfortably. Make sure there is enough food, water and toys for your hamster to be busy for a few days, as you should not be near it in the first place. If you have children, friends or guests at home, make sure they don't disturb your guinea pig.

2. 

   Gradually get acquainted with the hamster. Three days after leaving your hamster alone, you should be able to get used to it. As you approach the cage, speak softly to alert the hamster of your presence. It may be scary at first, but remember that it doesn't know you yet and don't be disappointed. Do things you need to do every day such as changing food and water, discarding old toys and adding new toys. You should also change the bedding that is soiled. Your hamster will get used to your hand in its cage.

3. 

   Start the training process. Start short training sessions the second week after your hamster has returned home. Most guinea pigs are most active from evening until late at night and throughout the night. Try to understand the schedule of each hamster and train at times when it is most active. A good way to train your hamster is to put your hamster in a dry bath and go inside. Bring some toys for your hamster to play with while it gets used to your presence. Do not force the mouse to play if it does not want to. Do not punish your hamster if it bites or scratches during training.
   • To train a hamster, put your hand in the cage. Let your hamster sniff and probe your hand. If the rat is nibbling gently but not aggressively, gently pull your hand away, but immediately extend your hand to let it explore again. This will help your hamster know that the hand is not something to bite and fear not. Then, you put the delicious food in your hand; Nuts mix is ​​a good fit for this as it is a supplement to pellets and cubes. Hamsters love this food very much. Your guinea pig will get used to climbing out of the palm of your hand and will learn that the hand is the place to get in. Gradually move the food over the upper part of your hand, as your guinea pig will become more and more comfortable with this.
   • If you see improvement, try to have your hamster climb onto your hand and reward it immediately. Your hamster will find your hand an adorable object. This time, let it climb into your palm and slowly lift your hand off the floor. It may be frightened at first, but when you hear you talking in a low voice and enjoying your favorite food, your hamster will feel more comfortable. You need to sit while training, as your guinea pig can jump out of your hand and be injured if you fall from a distance of 15-20 cm from the floor.

4. 

   Be mindful of your hamster's sleep cycle. Hamsters are nocturnal, but they can still be slightly active during the day looking for food and other things. Although the hamster is awake, the hamster is not interested in playing unless you find it to be a play. Also, keep strangers away from your guinea pig's side. Right now it's only you who stick to it. It will make more friends in the future, but now your guinea pig needs to know that you are his friend and never harm him. advertisement

Part 5 of 6: Exercise your guinea pig

1. 

   Buy an exercise wheel that's right for your hamster. The wheel that comes with the cage is often too small and can be harmful to your hamster's back. You will know which wheel is too small if the hamster's back is hunched. Buy a size of at least 20 cm for the dwarf hamster and 28 cm for the Syrian hamster. Don't be afraid to buy bigger wheels.

2. 

   Make sure to provide plenty of toys for your hamster. They will enjoy toys such as toilet rolls, empty tissue boxes, pipes, tunnels, bird nest boxes, PVC pipes, and chew toys. Most hamster owners only have a wheel and a ball for them to play with.As a result, they will begin to form bad habits like trapping or gnawing steel cage spokes (if they are kept in it). Your guinea pig doesn't just need a wheel and a ball. Make sure you have plenty of toys that can be varied and captivated by your hamster.

3. 

   Install crib outside. Your hamster will be delighted to be out of the cage to explore. An outdoor play area for your guinea pig also helps when cleaning the cage as you need a safe place to keep them. You can use a plastic container for household goods or a small animal crib, available at pet stores.
   • Make sure your guinea pig has no access to dangerous objects (such as wires the mouse can chew on) and that the room has no room for it to escape.
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Part 6 of 6: House cleaning for guinea pigs

1. 

   Place the hamster in a safe place. While cleaning your hamster's house, place it in a ball or crib. You need to be relaxed and use both hands. Don't try to hold your guinea pig in one hand, and clean the cage in the other. This will leave your hamster clean and potentially harmful to your hamster.

2. 

   Wash the cage thoroughly. Use regular dish soap and water. Other soaps (such as hand sanitizer) with even a very small residue can make your four-legged friend uncomfortable. Use a soap made specifically for cleaning guinea pigs or rodents that you can buy at pet stores.
   • You can also use a vinegar solution to clean your hamster's habitat.

3. 

   Rinse the cage and allow to dry. Make sure the water is completely evaporated and that the cleaning solutions are rinsed. Don't forget that your hamster has a very short nose, and the smell of vinegar or soap can be annoying.

4. 

   Replace the cage liner. To retain your guinea pig's scent on the liner, mix some of the still-usable liner into the new liner. Cheap cage liners are available at most pet stores. Another suitable material is a tear toilet; You can also use a teardrop paper towel. Do not use old newspapers as your hamster will lick the ink from the newspaper and become very ill. Never use pine or cedar shavings as they are harmful to your hamster. You can, however, use deciduous poplar wood. advertisement

What you need

• Guinea
• Cage
• Toys for guinea pigs
• Hot water and vinegar solution to wash the cage
• Hamster food and delicacies
• Food bowls (metal bowls are best)
• Country
• Drinking water bottle for hamster
• Cage lining material
• Tunnel
• Tent / house for hamster
• Hamster bed
• Toilet paper roll core (let the mouse chew and play inside)
• Hamster cage mat (optional)