How to multiply succulent plants from branches

Author: John Stephens
Date Of Creation: 24 January 2021
Update Date: 2 July 2024
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How to Propagate Succulents Fast n Easy
Video: How to Propagate Succulents Fast n Easy

Content

Most succulent plants are easy to propagate. This plant also has many leaves for you to experiment with growing in series at the same time with only a little effort. You can even grow a succulent plant from a single leaf, although many species require proper cutting. Note that the aloe plant requires different treatments for best results.

Steps

Part 1 of 3: Taking branches for planting

  1. Begins at the beginning of growing season. You can also try breeding succulents in any season of the year. However, your chances of success are highest if you begin to do this near the end of the plant's hibernation season or at the beginning of the growing season. Usually this is in early spring, but there are some succulent plants that start growing in the fall or winter.
    • If you already have branches, move on to the next section planting branches. Even if you do not take the steps below to cut the branches, most succulent plants are still more likely to propagate successfully.

  2. Disinfects a sharp knife. Choose a razor or a sharp knife that can be cut off once. Reduce the risk of infection by raising the blade over fire or wiping with alcohol.
    • It is discouraged to cut the tree with your hands or with scissors, as the branches may be crushed or cut and not healed properly. If you are still trying to remove the leaves with your hand, make sure the leaves that are disconnected from the stalk are intact, taking the leaves off gently and without using strong force.

  3. Decide whether to cut each leaf apart or cut a large piece. Most succulent plants can grow a new plant from a leaf or part of a branch. However, some species like Dudleya or Aeonium need a piece of trunk. You can refer to the following steps for more information.
    • If you don't know what kind or species of plants you're planting, you can try both methods. The mother tree will hardly be affected if you follow the instructions below, a very inexpensive test.
    • For some non-specific plant species, especially aloe vera, it is best to propagate by uprooting a newly grown seedling.

  4. Select a leaf to cut. If the species you want to propagate has "asterisks" or round leaves that grow close together on top of the tree, leave the top part of the plant and cut the leaves underneath, but not directly from the base. For succulents that mostly grow outward instead of tall, cut off any leaves that grow on the edge. Cut leaves at a position connected to the stalk with a knife.
    • Unless you're planning to cut the entire branch, you can move on to the next branch.
    • See the Tips section below if your succulent plants are large-leaved.
  5. Choose a branch to cut. Most succulents are not difficult to grow, but you can still increase your chances of growing a healthy plant with the right cutting technique. Ideally, you should choose a branch that is growing vigorously, near the top or the edge, with a length of about 10-15 cm. Cut just below the junction of the stem, or below the junction of leaves and buds to the main branch. Choose a piece of branch with at least two leaves (or a cluster of leaves) if possible. advertisement

Part 2 of 3: Prepare and plant branches

  1. Cut away the leaves from the lower part of the branch. If using a piece of branches, remove the bottom bunches of leaves. Use a sterile knife to cut off any leaves that are about 5-10 cm from the bottom of the branch. Do not touch the leaves growing above.
    • If the cuttings include buds, leave them as is.
  2. Dip the cuttings of the branch into the root stimulant (optional). Commercially available root-stimulating powders can accelerate the growth of branches, often including an antifungal and root protection agent from rot. This therapy is often recommended for branches that start to rot and the old branches, "wood chemistry," which is also not really necessary.
    • Some gardeners report their success using cinnamon powder on branches of branches as a less expensive antifungal therapy.
  3. Place the branch in a slightly shaded place to dry. Place the branch on a paper towel away from direct sunlight, and check the branch's cross section regularly. The cross-section must be dry so that the new plant will not rot easily. Branches can be planted within a day or two of drying. The branches will have a more noticeable change, which is a "callus" formation on the cut surface. This takes about two to seven days.
    • If the leaves are shrinking significantly during this time, you may need to plant them earlier. The success rate will be lower, but the leaves may die if dried out.
  4. Prepare a succulent soil mix. While you wait for the cuttings of the branches to dry, prepare a well-drained cactus or succulent soil and place it in a small pot. If you want to mix your own soil, you can mix 3 parts soil, 2 parts sand, and 1 part perlite.
    • Use coarse, salt-free, store-bought sand if possible, as sand collected elsewhere can contain microorganisms or salt that is harmful to plants.
  5. Choose a pot of the right size for your tree branches. Succulent plants do best in pots that aren't too large for the plant. Pots for plants that have about 2.5 to 5 cm of space for growing plants are good for starting out.
    • The pot should have drainage holes.
  6. Plant branches. You can plant branches as usual, stick the branches in the ground so that the bottom leaves just stick up to ask the ground but not to the ground. The leaves buried in the ground are more likely to rot, so if you use the leaves to plant, you should only let the cut-section of the leaf touch the ground and use gravel to support the leaf.
  7. Water occasionally. Succulent plants generally do not require a lot of watering. However, you will still need to water newly planted branches every two to three days while the plants are rooting. Once the root system has formed, you can reduce the number of watering to once a week, or when the soil is dry.
    • Don't worry if the branches look dry at first. This means that plants are using their stored energy to take out new roots.
    • If all goes well, you should start to see new sprouting in about 4 weeks.
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Part 3 of 3: Taking care of seedlings

  1. Place the plant in a warm and well ventilated location. Unlike mature plants, young succulents may not have enough water reserves to withstand direct sunlight. They do best in direct sunlight, around 20ºC and in well-circulated air.
  2. Keep the soil slightly moist. Seedlings need regular watering to survive and develop root systems. However, succulents are naturally adapted to dry climates and will often rot if left in waterlogged environments. You can use a spray or a small watering can to water the soil surface once the soil is dry, every 2-3 days. You will also need to mist the plant's leaves, as the leaves are not yet rooted.
    • If your tap water contains a lot of chlorine or if the branches grown show signs of rotting, try distilled water.
  3. Reduce watering as the plant has grown. Branching plants should develop a full root system after four weeks, and by this point you can reduce the number of watering to about once a month. Leaf plants will grow more slowly, but you can also observe small leaves and roots protruding from the cut-outs of the leaves. Reduce watering times gradually as the roots begin to penetrate the soil, which may take about 6 weeks or more.
  4. Exercise caution when using fertilizers. Succulent plants are slow-growing plants and are not adapted to nutrient-rich soil. Use a balanced fertilizer (for example 10-10-10) only during the growing season and only when the seedlings are four weeks old and have taken root. Consider using fertilizer at a dose equal to to ¼ of the recommended dose to prevent the plant from overgrowing and "spindly" with small foliage, or burns the roots. advertisement

Advice

  • Some large-leaved succulents can even be grown from part of the leaves:
    • Species Streptocarpus: The leaves can be cut vertically in half, leaving the midrib and placing the cross-section in shallow trenches.
    • Species Sansevieria (tiger's tongue) and Eucomis: The leaves can be cut horizontally into sections about 5 cm long and placed in the ground about 2 cm deep.
    • Species Begonia (Hai Duong) and Sinningia (la la lan): You can cut each leaf into a square about 2.5 cm side with wide veins. Fix these leaves on the ground with sterile pins.

Warning

  • If the plant has thorns or spikes, wear thick gloves or wrap your fingers before handling the plant.