How to sew the hem of a garment by hand

Video: How to Hand-Sew a Hem on ANY Garment

Content

Tips
Warnings
What do you need

1 Iron the clothes you want to hem. It is important to remove any creases and creases so that the garment fits well and the hem is neat.

2 Measure the bottom line. Use a long ruler to measure the level of the bottom line from the floor. Use pins or chalk to mark the length. Cut the fabric below the marked bottom line. The hem allowance should be long enough to tuck the hem, but not too wide, otherwise the bottom will look bulky.

Also, after measuring, iron a new hem line to the width of the hem you want. This is handy if you don't have pins or chalk, or even if you used them, will make the bottom line look pretty, making it easier to create a new hemstitch.
When determining the length, and especially trousers, it is advisable to wear shoes with which you will wear this particular clothing, then the determination of the final length will be most accurate.

3 Thread a thin needle with a thread that matches the color of the garment best.

4 Starting to sew on the wrong side of the hem, sew one small stitch across the folded or folded hem. Pull the thread through the hem edge. The following seams are suitable for processing the bottom of the garment (depending on whether you want to use a seam, blind or flat):

Slant stitch: This is the fastest method, but the least durable because the thread is open and wears out easily. Since this article is intended to help you in extreme cases, this is the type of seam shown in the pictures.
Vertical seam: It is much more durable. It is best used for hemming on knitwear or stretch lace.
Slip seam: Again, very durable, this seam is the least visible. This method uses uneven hidden stitches that are hidden in the fold between the hem and the fabric of the garment.
Herringbone seam: Another durable hemming technique. This is one of the most used methods for working with a scalloped edge (the edge is trimmed with zigzag scissors). The thread crosses over itself with every stitch.
Blind Hem: This is very quick and easy for blind hemming.
Blind Herringbone Stitch: This is the same as a simple herringbone stitch, but the stitches are made between the hem and the garment. Ideal for heavy fabrics.
Openwork stitch (hemstitch): This is a decorative finishing stitch mainly used for linen, handkerchiefs and other decorative items. This is a rather specific seam, however, if you want to use it, please be patient with painstaking work and a lot of time.

5 Run stitch by stitch from right to left. Sew tiny stitches about 1 inch apart. Grab just a few threads of the garment fabric each time, then pull the needle over the hem. You will soon see a slanted shape starting to form along the length of the hem.

6 Secure the thread at the end of the seam. Cut off the remaining thread. Try on clothes to check the level of the bottom line. We hope everything is perfect; otherwise, you will have to rip up and repair uneven areas.

If you've used a quick and easy slant hemstitch but want to make it more durable, just use one of the hand hemming methods listed above or the machine stitch for hemming later. The beauty of the quick method is that it allows you to temporarily hem or try on the length of the hem, which is ideal for travel, fashion shows or photo shoots, for designers and so on.

Tips

After cutting the fabric, you will need to overcast the edge. Some fabrics with peeling edges will require more effort than others.
If you have the choice between hand stitching and machine stitching, machine stitching gives you more flexibility and a stronger stitch. However, if your goal is to create invisible hem or if you want the garment to look like the original from the fashion shows, hand seam is always better. Machine stitching gives the hem the look of a store-bought garment.
We recommend that you ask someone to help you determine the bottom line, as it is easier to adjust the length from the side. If this is not possible, use a mannequin of your height.
Always remember that fast doesn't mean quality. Do not hurry.

Warnings

Use a thimble if pushing the needle through the fabric hurts you.
Always remove the needle immediately after use to avoid losing it or pricking it.
Store the needle with thread, about 20 cm long and with a knot at the end. This will make it easier for you to find it if you accidentally dropped it.