Content

• Steps
• Advice
• Warning

The nitrogen cycle (also known as nitrification cycle) is a process that breaks down toxic nitrogen waste in an aquarium into less toxic components. In order to cycle the nitrogen, the probiotics that consume waste need to be grown in the aquarium's filtration system. Putting fish in a tank that hasn't been cycled is a bad idea - the chemicals in the waste can seriously stress the fish, possibly even killing them. Therefore, anyone who installs a new aquarium should cycle the nitrogen to ensure the health and safety of the fish.

Steps

Part 1 of 4: Cycle the fish with nitrogen

1. 

   Installation of aquariums and filtration systems. To start cycling, you need to completely install the aquarium and put in everything you like with fish. You can read our article on how to install freshwater and saltwater aquariums for more information. Here is a list of things you need to do before you get started; This list may not be completely suitable for every aquarium:
   • Installation of the aquarium
   • Base material
   • Fill the tank with water
   • Add pumice stones, pumps, etc.
   • Add trees, rocks, etc.
   • Install filtration system (and / or protein foam separator)
   • Install heater

2. 

   
   
   Put some easy-to-keep fish into the tank. The purpose of the nitrogen cycle is to release fish into tanks to generate waste, but the fish must be able to survive in a highly toxic water environment long enough for the waste-handling bacteria to grow. As such, you need to choose fish species that are well microbiologically active, and start with a few. Then, as the bacteria have grown, you can gradually add more fish. Here are some suitable fish species:
   • White Clouds
   • Zebra Danios (Zebra Danios)
   • Tiger Barbs
   • Pseudotrophius Zebras
   • Banded Gouramis (Banded Gouramis)
   • Golden Tetra (X-ray Tetras)
   • Pupfish
   • Most varieties of minnows (minnows)
   • Most varieties of guppies (guppies)

3. 

   
   
   Feed the fish a little. When cycling your aquarium nitrogen it is important that you don't overfeed your fish. Although different types of fish have different nutritional needs, the general rule is to feed the fish only every two daysa moderate amount each time; Do not leave leftover food when the fish is finished. There are two reasons for doing so:
   • Fish that eats a lot will excrete a lot of waste, causing the level of toxins in the tank to rise before the bacteria become stable.
   • Leftovers will rot and will also produce toxins.

4. 

   
   
   Change the water regularly. While you are waiting to cycle the aquarium's nitrogen cycle, change intervals every few days 10-25% amount of water in the tank. Similar to the reduced feeding schedule above, water changes are also one way to ensure toxin levels don't get too high before bacteria is able to grow. If you are a saltwater aquarium, do not forget to add the correct proportion of sea salt to each water change to maintain the appropriate salinity.
   • Do not use chlorinated water as chlorine can kill the bacteria in the tank, and the nitrogen cycle will have to start all over again. If you use tap water, be sure to treat the water with a suitable chlorinated or water treatment agent before Fill the tank with water. If you use bottled water, use distilled water, as "pure" or "drinking" water can contain flavoring minerals that are harmful to fish.
   • Change the water more often if you start to notice signs of the fish being seriously stressed by ammonia (see more information in the "Treating Common Problems" section below). However, you should try not to stress the fish by avoiding large changes in temperature and chemicals in the water.

5. 

   Use test kits to monitor toxin levels. When you put fish in the tank, the concentration of toxic chemicals such as ammonia and nitrite will increase rapidly in the water. As beneficial bacteria begin to grow and react with these chemicals, the toxin levels drop near "zero" - a safe level for stocking more fish. To monitor these chemicals, you can use test kits commonly available from aquarium and aquarium stores. Daily water testing is ideal, but sometimes you can also try water every few days.
   • You also need to keep ammonia below 0.5 mg / L and nitrite below 1 mg / L throughout the cycle (preferably below half the numbers above). If these chemicals start to rise to unsafe levels, you need to increase the frequency of water changes.
   • The nitrogen formation cycle is complete when both ammonia and nitrite drop to undetectable levels. In practice, this is often referred to as a "zero" level, although it is technically inaccurate.
   • You can also take a water sample to the store where you bought the fish or aquarium. Most of these places have a low cost water testing service (some even offer free!)

6. 

   Gradually add more fish as the toxin level drops close to the "zero" level. Nitrogen cycle time usually takes approx six to eight weeks. You can stock more fish when the ammonia and nitrite are low to detectable with the water test kit. However, you need to work slowly, releasing only one or two new fish at a time. Stock a few fish at a time so that the ammonia and nitrite levels in the water will only increase to the level where the bacteria are under control.
   • After each stocking, wait at least a week and try the water again. If the ammonia and nitrite levels are still low, you can add a few more fish.
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Part 2 of 4: Cycle nitrogen in a "fish-free" tank

1. 

   Installation and preparation of aquariums. With this method, we will start with a fully installed aquarium like the method above, but this time do not stock the fish until the entire cycle of nitrogen is completed. Instead of releasing the fish, we will put in the microbiological waste, also monitor the water level and wait for the cycle to complete.
   • Be very patient, as this method requires you to wait for the organic matter in the aquarium to rot and start generating toxic waste. However, this is a more commonly considered "humane" option because fish are not released into ammonia and nitrite environments like the method above.

2. 

   Sprinkle a few flakes in the aquarium. To start your nitrogen cycle, add the amount of flakes you would normally feed your fish into your tank. Now you just have to wait. A few days later, food debris begins to rot and release toxins (including ammonia) into the water.

3. 

   Test your ammonia levels after a few days. Use a test kit (or take a water sample to an aquarium store) to test for ammonia levels. Ammonia level must be at least reached three parts per million (ppm). If the amount of ammonia in the water has not reached it, you need to add more fish food and allow it to rot before trying again.

4. 

   Try to keep ammonia levels around 3 ppm. Continue to measure ammonia levels every 2 days. When beneficial bacteria begin to grow in the aquarium, they will begin to consume ammonia, which helps to reduce the concentration of ammonia in the water. Make up for it by adding fish food every time the ammonia levels drop below 3 ppm.

5. 

   Start testing for nitrite levels after a week. When bacteria begin to consume ammonia, they will begin to release nitrite, a chemical intermediate in the nitrification cycle (less toxic than ammonia, but still harmful to fish). Start testing for nitrite levels after one week; As above, you can either use a test kit or take a water sample to an aquarium store for this purpose.
   • When nitrite was detected in the water, the cycle began. At this point, you need to continue increasing the amount of ammonia equal to the previous level.

6. 

   Wait for the nitrite level to suddenly drop and the nitrate level to rise. When you grow bacteria in your tank with ammonia, the nitrite levels continue to rise. However, gradually beneficial bacteria will grow to enough levels to convert nitrite to nitrat, the last chemical in the nitrification cycle (and not harmful to fish). When this happens, you will know that the cycle is almost complete.
   • You can identify this last stage in the cycle by testing the nitrite level (in which case you will observe a sudden drop in nitrite), the nitrate level (in this case you need to look for a nitrate spike from "zero" level), or both.

7. 

   Gradually add the fish to the tank as ammonia and nitrite levels get close to "zero" levels. After six to eight weeks, ammonia and nitrite will drop to the point where you can no longer measure, while nitrate levels will stop. It is safe to stock the fish at this time.
   • However, as with the method above, you need to gradually release the fish.Do not stock more than a few fish at a time and wait at least a week or two before releasing the next batch of fish.
   • Consider cleaning the aquarium substrate with a siphon tube before adding more fish to the tank, especially if you have to add a lot of food. Rotting food or organic matter can turn into a time bomb. If organic debris gets trapped underneath the gravel, ammonia won't get into the water, but if disturbed, large amounts of ammonia can be released quite quickly.
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Part 3 of 4: Accelerating the nitrogen cycle

1. 

   Use filter material from an aquarium that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Since the cycle of nitrogen can take 6 to 8 weeks, many aquarium hobbyists are constantly looking for ways to shorten the process. One way many believe to be effective is to introduce bacteria from a tank that has been cycled to the new tank. Because you don't have to wait for bacteria to start growing naturally, your tank will complete the cycle faster. A very good source of bacteria is the aquarium filter; you simply need to change the filter material from the stabilized aquarium to a new one to speed the cycle.
   • Try to find filter material from an aquarium with the same size and number of fish. Disparate filters (for example, if you use an aquarium filter with only a few fish for an aquarium with more fish) can cause ammonia to build up higher than the bacteria can handle. timely.

2. 

   Add gravel from an aquarium that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Just as the filter material can help you "grow" bacteria from a stabilized aquarium into a new one, the substrate (the gravel on the bottom of the tank) of the tank that has gone through the nitrogen cycle can have an effect. the same, similar. Simply sprinkle a handful of gravel on top of the new tank's foundation.

3. 

   Plant your plants in the aquarium. Aquatic plants (as opposed to plastic prosthetics) often help speed up the nitrogen cycle, especially when taken from a stable aquarium. Aquatic plants not only carry probiotics (similar to the substrate mentioned above), but also directly absorb ammonia in a biological process called protein biosynthesis.
   • Fast-growing plants (eg, Vallisneria and Hygrophila) are most likely to absorb the most aminiacs. Floating plants also work well.

4. 

   Beware of cross-contamination. One disadvantage of using filter mass or substrate to transfer beneficial bacteria from one tank to another is the ability of organisms to other also inadvertently transferred. Many parasites, invertebrates and mixed microorganisms can spread this way, so be aware of this possibility and never use material from an aquarium. Infection with harmful organisms.
   • Pests that can be transmitted this way include snails, harmful algae and parasites like ich and velvet.

5. 

   Add a small amount of salt to the freshwater aquarium. For freshwater aquariums, you can add a tiny pinch of salt to keep the fish healthy when the toxin is at its peak at the start of its nitrogen cycle. This has the effect of reducing the toxicity of nitrite, an intermediate chemical in the nitrification cycle. However, you should only use up to about 12 g of salt per 4 liters of water. Higher salt intake can cause severe stress in freshwater fish.
   • Make sure to use standard aquarium salt; Formulated table salt is not suitable for aquariums and may be harmful to fish.
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Part 4 of 4: Handling common problems

1. 

   Treat ammonia stress in the nitrogen cycle with frequent water changes. Ammonia stress (a dangerous symptom that occurs in fish when ammonia levels rise too high) is always a risk in the nitrogen cycle. If not treated early, these symptoms can eventually kill the fish. If you notice that your fish does the following, lower your ammonia levels by changing the water more often and with more water each time:
   • Lethargy / lack of movement (even when food is added to the aquarium)
   • Refusing to leave the bottom of the tank
   • Gasp the air above the water
   • Inflammation of the eyes, gills and / or anus

2. 

   Consider using an ammonia neutralizer if toxicity problems arise. These products come in two types: ammonia reducing agents and detoxifying agents. Most aquarium stores sell chemicals that are specially formulated to remove ammonia from the aquarium. These chemicals can help when ammonia levels rise so high that they begin to harm your fish, but they will be even more useful when starting a new tank, as you can then skip a few changes. water, shortening the cycle of nitrogen cycling for a new aquarium
   • Some people think that ammonia reducing agents can be harmful in the long term. This concept may stem from a misunderstanding about the detoxification process. The toxic ammonia (NH3 gas) is in a reversible equilibrium with the less toxic ionized ammonia (NH4 +). Most detox products work to convert toxic ammonia into a form that is not much toxic to fish. However, ammonia will be released after a period of 24 - 48 hours. That's why these products should be used as follows:
     • continue using as long as the beneficial bacteria are not stable, AND
     • use occasionally when partial water changes (follow each manufacturer's instructions) to remove some of the accumulated ammonia, AND
     • Even if it is not well defined, you should still dose the antidote for the whole tank, not just the fresh water, as ammonia in the tank will soon be released (24-48 hours after previous dose).
   • When you change 50% of the water (or more), the time required to cycle the nitrogen will be longer (even stop the cycle) as probiotics are temporarily inhibited and it takes time to enjoy. For this reason, some people recommend the pH change to be less than 0.2-0.3 per day. Assuming that the pH in the tank is 7.8, when replacing 25% of the water with pH = 7, the final pH will be 7.6.
   • The beneficial bacteria only alter the ionized (non-toxic) ammonia, so these products also benefit the bacteria ..

3. 

   Use only goldfish to cycle the aquarium with goldfish. Although generally considered to be the typical aquarium fish, goldfish are not actually recommended for cycling the aquarium. The reason is that goldfish have different care needs from today's popular tropical aquarium fish. Therefore, using goldfish to cycle the aquarium and then release tropical fish can cause at least some bacteria to die from higher temperatures and different water environments. This will stress goldfish, bacteria, and tropical fish; therefore this is not a way to maintain a good environment in the aquarium.
   • Besides, new types of goldfish can be susceptible to diseases that can spread to the entire aquarium.
   • You should not cycle clear nitrogen every An aquarium with a type of goldfish called a "bait" goldfish is a fish that is not cared for by breeders and sellers, and is often susceptible to disease.
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Advice

• Pure ammonia can also be used to cycle nitrogen in fish-free tanks. Use only pure ammonia with no other additives. You can calculate how much to add to your tank by searching for the keyword "ammonia spreadsheet".
• Do not hesitate to speak to a specialist if you have questions regarding your aquarium. Better safe than sorry! However, keep in mind that many aquarium shops do not hire professionals.
• Another way to speed up the nitrogen cycle is by using a bacterial supplement. Most aquarium stores sell cultured bacteria, so if you're not afraid to spend a little extra money you won't have to wait up to 6 weeks to complete your nitrogen cycle. However, some people claim that the bacteria in these products are ineffective, so you should still "test" bacteria with ammonia.

Warning

• Nitrate levels in excess of 40 ppm and ammonia / nitrite in excess of 4 ppm mean you need a little water regulation, as this could be detrimental to the healthy bacteria you are keeping.
• The use of large chunks of food or organic matter to cycle nitrogen (ammonia secretion) can cause bacteria to proliferate and cause unpleasant odors. Food can also become moldy underwater, causing fish disease and promoting mold growth in the substrate.