How to anchor a boat

Author: Ellen Moore
Date Of Creation: 17 January 2021
Update Date: 29 June 2024
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Content

Anchoring the boat correctly is important when you want it to stay in one place. Read the following instructions to learn how to secure your boat safely and effectively. Make sure you understand the entire process, especially the directions for choosing an anchor point. beforethan you throw it. Even if you already own several anchors, reading and reviewing the section on anchor selection will provide you with valuable information on when each type of anchor is used and how to evaluate the quality of the anchor, rope and chain.

Steps

Part 1 of 3: Choosing the Right Equipment

  1. 1 Consider a general purpose horned anchor. The horned anchor, or Danforth's anchor, is less dependent on its weight than on a structure consisting of two flat pointed horns (or paws) spaced at an angle of 30 degrees from the anchor shaft. It is one of the most popular designs on the market, with a strong holding force due to its weight than other types, in both soft silt and hard sand. However, its rough-horned design can prevent it from reaching the bottom in strong currents, and like most anchors, it has difficulty snagging rocks and other hard ground.
    • Danforth's aluminum designs, such as the fortress, have excellent holding power. Some have adjustable horns that can be extended to anchor in soft mud. A large aluminum horned anchor makes a good storm anchor.
  2. 2 Explore the plow anchor for areas with strong or changing currents. The plow anchor is so named for the plow wedge attached to the spindle with a swivel. It is effective in soft soils and behaves slightly better in grass than other lightweight anchors.They are generally heavier than horned anchors of the same size and easier to install (albeit with slightly less traction) than horned anchors. The ability of the spindle to rotate in the direction it is being pulled without yanking the main anchor makes the plow anchor less likely to detach when the boat is pulled in the other direction.
    • The plow anchor has no protruding horns or parts that the rope or chain of the anchor can catch on. However, if you do not have a bow roller, the plow anchor is difficult to store.
  3. 3 The mushroom anchor is only used under light loads. A mushroom anchor looks like a disc or plate at the base of the anchor spindle. They do not have as much holding power, but are a good choice for smaller boats that make short stops in soft ground. If your boat is small enough for the size of the mushroom anchor of your choice, this may be the best option for areas with abundant overgrown ground.
    • Many electric anchors that are lowered at the push of a button are mushroom anchors.
  4. 4 Explore other types of anchors for specialized applications. There are many other types of anchors and no one is universal. Anchor cat, naval, or Gerreshof anchor are used on small boats and rocky ground. On less common soils, specialized anchors such as a gravel claw anchor may be required for best results.
  5. 5 Use multiple anchors for different purposes. Depending on the purpose of your boat, you will probably need several anchors of different sizes. Your main anchor will be useful for long fishing and most other purposes. One or two sizes smaller, easy to deploy and extend, perfect for lunch breaks and other short breaks. A storm anchor, one or two sizes larger, should be stored nearby for retrieval during bad weather or for overnight stays. In addition, it is always good to have at least one heavy spare in case you lose an anchor or for situations where it is wise to use two anchors.
    • You should always follow the boat manufacturer's recommendations when choosing anchor size. However, you will find an approximate table just below this page. Purchase an anchor larger than indicated if the boat is too loaded.
    • If in doubt, buy a larger anchor. Physical size is more important than weight, although both are important.
  6. 6 Use high quality anchors. Anchors play an important role in safety and you should get the best that you can afford. Check each one for rust, uneven or intermittent welds, and other metal defects before purchasing.
  7. 7 Make sure you have deck cleats or anchor rolls to match your anchors. You can attach a bow roller to your boat where you will store and secure your anchor, but keep in mind that each roller will only fit a specific type of anchor. Otherwise, make sure you have strong and sturdy deck cleats that can be wrapped around the anchor line.
  8. 8 Learn to choose a nylon rope for your anchor. The chain, rope, or a combination of these that attaches the anchor to your boat is called drafts... The elasticity of nylon allows it to respond well to sudden winds or changes in current, and the high quality rope is strong enough to be used as a dragline. It's also easy to operate and relatively inexpensive, although you shouldn't skimp on quality.
    • Three-strand nylon rope is the most tear-resistant and therefore most suitable for deep placement, but will become difficult to handle and must be replaced once it becomes stiff with salt.Choose a three-strand rope with a medium strand twist, paying attention to the amount of twist in the strand, as they will fall apart less easily.
    • Braided nylon rope is stronger and easier to work with, but is not a great choice for frequent anchor use as it snags on driftwood and tears against objects at the bottom.
  9. 9 Figure out which chains are best to use for your anchor. The chain is more expensive and requires more effort to apply, but it will not get tangled by strong currents and will allow the anchor to reach the bottom quickly. Try to find a chain that is high quality workmanship and well galvanized, as indicated by its uniform appearance. Chain types such as BBB chains (low carbon steel), Hi-test (high strength) chains and proof coil (with resistant rings) are good choices for use in anchoring attachments. Make sure the chain links fit on the boat's winch, which holds it and releases it when you drop the anchor.
    • On chains with stable rings (Proof coil), each link is stamped "G 3".
    • BBB chains are considered to be strong chains with small links, suitable for small winches. They are preferred by those who use chain links instead of a rope and chain combination.
    • High strength Hi-test chains are robust yet lightweight. Use them instead of others if you need to lose weight.
    • Anchor chains made by North American companies are of more reliable quality than some chains made in other countries. If you live somewhere in another country and do not want to buy imported chains, local sailors or fishermen will be able to advise you on the choice.
  10. 10 Consider using both materials. A rope and chain anchor has some of the advantages and disadvantages of each material, but requires an additional bow connection in order to tightly bond the two lengths. After all, many factors are taken into account in the chain versus rope debate, and you'd better turn to an experienced boat owner for help with your decision.
    • If you are using all-chain drafts, it is still a good idea to attach a nylon rope to the chain as a "cable stop" to make the drafts heavier and more elastic. One end of this rope is tied to the bow cleat, and a special chain hook attaches the other to the chain at a distance of 1.2 m or more from where the chain is attached to the bow of the boat.
  11. 11 Use a rope or chain of sufficient diameter. The nylon rope should be 4.8 mm in diameter for a vessel up to 3 m in length and 9.5 mm for a vessel up to 6 m in length. The diameter increases by an additional 3.2 mm for every additional 3 m of vessel length over 6 m. The chain diameter can be 3.2 mm smaller than the rope should be for a given boat size.

Part 2 of 3: Choosing an Anchor Point

  1. 1 Use nautical charts and your eyesight to find a good location. Your charts should tell you the depth of the water and mark any anchorage points. Try to find a flat bottom that suits your type of anchor (usually soft and not overgrown is best). Avoid places with strong currents or open to the weather, especially during an overnight stop.
    • If you are planning to be in a fishing spot or other specific area, keep in mind that the anchoring location should be upwind of where the boat will end up.
  2. 2 Measure the depth at this location and check the available space. Measure the depth of the selected point and multiply by 7: this is approximately the distance the vessel will drift from the anchor. If the current or wind changes direction, the boat will swing to the other side of the anchor; make sure there is enough space for this in all directions. Never do not anchor your boat where the turning radius intersects with other boats.
    • Never assume that other boats have the same length of the anchor line (or "draft") as yours, or they will drift in the same direction as you. Ask other boat owners where their anchors are dropped and what is the length of the ditch if in doubt.
    • The instructions below will give you more precise guidelines for determining the length of your anchor line.
  3. 3 Circle the possible anchor location when measuring depth. When measuring depth, circle the entire location of your choice. This will reveal any hidden shallow water or other obstruction that could damage the boat if it drifts while at anchor.
    • If you find dangerous shallow areas, you should look for another place to drop anchor.
  4. 4 Find out the weather forecast and tide information. Know the time of the next high tide and the range of water levels between the high and low tide points so that a sudden high tide does not catch you off guard. If you are staying for an hour or more, you should keep an eye on the weather forecast to be prepared for any high winds or storm.
  5. 5 Decide which anchor to use. Now you have a complete understanding of the nature of your location. If strong winds or significant tide is expected, or the anchor is weakening, which could lead to a collision, then you should use a heavy storm anchor with excellent holding power. For most situations, your regular main anchor or a light lunch anchor will do.
    • See section Selecting an anchor for details.
    • In harsh winds, you will need to use one anchor at the bow and one at the stern. Do this only if nearby vessels use this method, because, using one or two anchors, the vessels swing differently, and their cables can easily become entangled.
  6. 6 Slowly approach the designated parking area in the direction of the wind and stop when you cross it. When you stop, the current or wind will slowly carry you back from your parking area. At this time, you must drop anchor.
    • If the water is calm, you will need a helmsman to reverse the engines at idle speed. It is better to develop hand signals in advance to mean “start,” “stop,” “stronger,” and “weaker,” rather than trying to scream across the boat.
  7. 7 Determine how much to extend and secure the cable at this stage. Before you drop the anchor, decide how long you will leave the anchor cable, or draftswhatever you need, and then tie a tie knot at that distance. Term etched chain length refers to the ratio of the length of your track to the distance from nose to bottom. A good rule of thumb is an etch length of at least 7: 1 for rope pulls, or 5: 1 for heavier all-chain pulls. Increase the ratio to 10: 1 or more in stormy weather conditions, or if your anchor breaks loose from the bottom. The longer the etched chain is, the closer your drafts are to the horizontal plane and the more stable you will be at the anchor.
    • Measure from the nose, not the surface of the water. If the water is 3 m deep and the bow is 1.2 m from the surface of the water, then the total depth is 4.2 m. With a typical etched chain length ratio of 7: 1, you will need 4.2 x 7 = 29.4 m drafts.
    • Refer to the Seafarers' Guide to Nautical Knotting or an online tutorial if you are unsure how to tie a securing knot.
    • Use only a shorter etched chain length than indicated if you need to avoid drifting towards obstacles and cannot find a suitable parking spot with a lot of space. Do not rely on short etched chain lengths in harsh weather or overnight parking.

Part 3 of 3: Anchoring

  1. 1 Slowly lower your anchor over the bow (the front of the boat). Hold the drafts firmly at first to help guide the anchor until you feel it bottom.Then slowly unwind the rope at the same speed as the boat is moving. It should lie in a straight line along the bottom, and not pile up, which can get very confused.
    • Be careful to avoid getting your hands or feet caught in the road, which could result in serious injury. Educate passengers about the dangers and keep children and animals away from it.
    • Do not throw the anchor overboard; lower it slowly to avoid tangling your rope.
    • Never do not drop anchor from the stern unless the bow is already anchored and you need additional anchorage. Securing only from the stern can result in the boat capsizing.
  2. 2 After 1/3 of the draft is released, pull it up and let the boat straighten. The boat is likely to turn against the current or wind as it travels. After you have released about 1/3 of the total length of the boat you decide to use, pull it out and wait for the boat to straighten. This will straighten the released drafts and gently set the anchor to the bottom.
    • If the boat is not straightened, the anchor is drifting and then you must try again. Choose a different location if possible.
  3. 3 Continue dragging and straightening the ship twice more. Loosen the girth of the anchor line and release it as the boat drifts back again. Pull it up again as soon as you unwind a total of 2/3 of the length of the draft. Give the boat the momentum to straighten it and set the anchor more securely. Repeat this procedure one more time, releasing the remainder of the length of the draft that you determined to be necessary under the given conditions.
  4. 4 Tie the rope around the bow cleat. Wrap the drafts tightly around the bow cleat. Pull it to check that the anchor is in place, although be aware that further adjustments will be required as described below. If this is not the case, you will have to repeat the process. Try looking for another location with better conditions.
  5. 5 Make sure you anchor with anchor points. First, find two immovable objects on the shore and notice their position relative to each other from your point of view (for example, a tree in front of a lighthouse, or two boulders spaced apart by a thumb's width, if you keep your palms outstretched to the length of your arms). Signal the helmsman to gently reverse the engine until the track straightens, then signal to return to neutral. The boat should drift back to a stationary position in which the two objects you spotted remain exactly in the same position relative to each other.
    • If these two objects are in a different position. and you stayed in the same place during this procedure, it means that you did not anchor and you need to repeat it again.
    • Try to negotiate hand signals with the helmsman beforehand so you don't try to yell at the entire boat.
  6. 6 Use the motor to finally set the anchor firmly. It is called arrest anchor, and this more firmly presses the anchor to the bottom. Let the helmsman try to reverse until the track is straightened, then shut off the engine.
    • Check your coordinates again as the helmsman does this to make sure the anchor is not dragging freely along the bottom.
  7. 7 Check your compass position regularly. Measure the location of several objects around you and mark them in your journal. Do this immediately after anchoring and 15-20 minutes later to make sure you anchor correctly. Continue checking every hour or several hours, depending on how long you will be at anchor.
    • GPS navigation systems often have an alarm setting that will alert you when you are drifting.
    • If you are going to be staying overnight, try to find at least one object that is lit. If you are unable to do this, you will have to use the GPS system.
    • For overnight or other extended stops, arrange for an anchor watch in advance so that the crew will take turns checking it to make sure you are not drifting.

Tips

  • When finished, make sure the anchor cable is wrapped in a ring and folded neatly to prevent future entanglements.
  • If using a horned anchor, give the anchor line a couple of sharp, short jerks when releasing to set it up. The more you release, the better the angle you get for the antlers to grip the sand.

Warnings

  • Always wear a lifejacket when casting or retrieving an anchor.
  • Buoys can be handy for marking where you are fishing, so you can more easily find an anchor point at a suitable distance upwind. However, buoys to mark the anchor position may snag on the anchor line if the vessel drifts. Do not use them for overnight stays and be aware of their locations for shorter stays.

What do you need

  • Cable
  • Anchor
  • Vessel
  • GPS satellite navigation system (optional)