Content

• To step
• Method 1 of 4: Learn the terminology of saddles
• Method 2 of 4: Fit a saddle on the horse
• Method 3 of 4: Fit a saddle for the rider
• Method 4 of 4: Check the fit of the saddle on your horse
• Tips
• Warnings

A properly fitting saddle is an important precondition for riding comfortably and comfortably, while your horse is safe and at ease. Unfortunately, it is not that easy to find the perfect saddle. Use this guide to find the perfect saddle for both your horse and yourself.

To step

Method 1 of 4: Learn the terminology of saddles

1. Learn what the saddle tree is. When looking at new saddles, one of the things you should pay attention to is the saddle tree. The saddle tree is the weight-distributing base of the saddle; the part of the saddle that rests on the horse and lifts you. There are two "trees" that distribute weight evenly on both sides of the spine. If your saddle fits properly, the horse's back will be in contact with the entire length of the trees.
2. Know where the back tree is. On a saddle, the rear boom is the back part that serves as the back of a chair; it slopes up a bit, a bit like a chair. The booms are connected to the rear boom at the bottom, keeping the whole saddle together. The rear boom is a term that is used with both English and western saddles.
3. Find the front arch of the saddle. On a western saddle, the front arch is the part in the front that holds the trees together. It is located under the button and has the appearance of an inverted "U" shape. There are two common types of front arch - a V shape and a U shape. A V-shape is the most popular, and is recognized by the sides that form a sharp angle straight to the knob. A U-shape can be recognized by thicker, curved edges that run up to the knob.
4. Know where the kopijzer is. On an English saddle, the kopijzer is the front part of the saddle that holds the trees together. English saddles don't have a knob like western saddles do; they only have a rounded part on the front - the kopijzer. Think of it as a smaller, rounder version of the rear boom.
5. Find the room. Another very important aspect of fitting your saddle to your horse is making sure the room fits properly. The name "room" refers to the empty space between the trees of the saddle. When the saddle is on a horse's back, you can find out if it fits by looking at the room, both in front and behind.
6. Understand the term "saddle tree." The saddle tree refers to the trees, the rear tree, the front arch / kopijzer and the chamber. These are the parts that need to be examined during saddle fitting. So if you fit your horse, look at the parts of the saddle tree.
7. Examine the tumbling of a saddle. The tumble refers to the arc angle of the booms from the front of the saddle to the back. Imagine the shape of the base of a rocking chair. Depending on the shape of your horse's backline, you will need to try saddles with different tilt angles.
8. Look at the deflection of the saddle. A second important angle measurement of the saddle is the deflection. This refers to the angle at which the trees bend outward. Usually they are closer together in the middle and further apart in the front and back, something like ") (". Some saddles deviate farther than others, which affects the sizing for both the horse and rider.
9. Examine the saddle's fanning out. The saddle fanning out is the degree to which the saddle's booms bend sideways and upwards at the front and rear of the saddle, at the front arch / kopijzer and rear boom.
10. Try out the seat of the saddle. This term is the easiest to recognize; the seat of the saddle is the part where you sit. The seat has two main things to keep in mind - the length and the depth. The length of the seat is how much space it takes up from the front to the back; a properly fitting saddle will allow you to sit upright without being pressed against the rear boom, and will leave about 10cm between your position and the front of the front arch / kopijzer. The depth is the angle from the front of the seat to the back, and comes in three options: high, medium and low. All these possibilities are found in saddles for different riding styles.

Method 2 of 4: Fit a saddle on the horse

1. Examine your horse's withers. The horse's withers are the high point above the shoulder blades at the level of the spine. There are two general types of withers, which determine the length and tilt angle of the saddle.
   • Pronounced withers are recognizable by a clearly high point, and then a gentle curve backwards to the hindquarters. Most "standard" or "medium" saddles will fit this type of horse.
   • Round withers occur, as the name implies, when the withers are gradually sloping and the horse has a flat back. The withers are generally also flatter, which requires a wider saddle tree.
2. Look at the horse's backline. The horse's backline is the shape / curve of the back from the withers to the hindquarters. The backline has four basic types: flat, straight, concave and sloped. Every build requires a different saddle shape, or the use of special saddle pads.
   • A flat backline is characterized by a withers and hindquarters that are of about the same height, and there is not an overly large valley in between. Most standard saddles will fit this build.
   • A straight back is common in mules, but is also sometimes seen in horses. There is a straight back when the withers and hindquarters are quite low, and there is not really a dip between the two. Seen from the side, their back appears almost horizontal. This requires a special "straight" saddle with trees that has virtually no tilt angle.
   • Horses with a hollow back have a very visible, narrow withers and a distinct hindquarters. This mainly occurs in horses that are in bad shape or very old. Due to this shape, the saddle cannot lie flat against the back; it balances between the withers and the hindquarters. Special pillows can be added to overcome this problem.
   • A sloping back line is created when the horse's hindquarters are slightly higher than the withers, causing the saddle to flip forward. You can get a saddle modified with more padding in the front to balance it out, or you can use special pads under the front arch / kopijzer to prop up the saddle.
3. Look at the length of your horse's back. A "standard" saddle is built to fit a horse with an average back length. In most cases, a special saddle is not necessary for a horse with a very long back, but if your horse has a short back, the flap (the leather flaps on both sides) can dig into its flanks, causing pain and irritation. If your horse is very small, it may be necessary to purchase a special "small" saddle to fit its back.
4. Take the age of the horse into account. When you buy a saddle for a very young and untrained horse, realize that within one or two years you will have to buy a new one that will fit its more developed body. On the other hand, if your horse is very old or fat, you may have to buy a new saddle in a year or two to compensate for the loss of too much weight.

Method 3 of 4: Fit a saddle for the rider

1. Determine the type of saddle you want. There is a little difference between the way Western and English saddles are measured, so before taking measurements, it is important to know what kind of saddle you are looking for. In addition, you will want to judge the quality and style of the saddle in different ways depending on the type of work you want to do with it.
2. Consider your body type. Just as most saddles are built for the "average" horse, they are also built to fit the "average" rider. If you are very tall, or slim, heavy, or have any of the many other features that affect the size / shape of your body, you may need a special saddle. Always remember that when you are in the saddle:
   • There should be 10 cm between your body and the front of the front arch / kopijzer.
   • You should never sit so that you lean against the back tree or the front arch.
   • Your stirrups should be comfortably sized without your knees bending too much.
3. Measure your seat. Sit in a regular chair with your back against the backrest and your feet on the floor. Use a flexible tape measure and measure the distance from your kneecap to the crease in your hip. This can be used in a size chart to determine the size of your saddle.
4. Determine your size in an English saddle. Use your measurements to determine the seat size (and therefore the size of your saddle) of an English saddle. The measurements / sizes can be roughly compared as follows:
   • A seat size of 41.9 cm or less is equivalent to a 15-inch saddle.
   • A seat size of 41.9 cm to 47.0 cm is equivalent to a 16-inch saddle.
   • A seat size of 47.0 cm to 50.8 cm is equivalent to a 16.5-inch saddle.
   • A seat size of 50.8 cm to 54.6 cm equals a 17-inch saddle.
   • A seat size of 54.6 cm to 58.4 cm equals a 17.5-inch saddle.
   • A seat size greater than 58.4 cm will fit an 18-inch or 19-inch saddle.
5. Determine your size in a western saddle. The sizing of the seat is a bit different for Western saddles than for English saddles. The easiest conversion method is to subtract two "inches" from the size of your English saddle and you will be left with the size of your western saddle. Use the following size chart to determine the size of your western saddle based on your seat size:
   • A seat size of 41.9 cm or less is equivalent to a 13-inch saddle.
   • A seat size of 41.9 cm to 47.0 cm is equivalent to a 14-inch saddle.
   • A seat size of 47.0 cm to 50.8 cm is equivalent to a 15-inch saddle.
   • A seat size of 50.8 cm to 54.6 cm equals a 15.5-inch saddle.
   • A seat size of 54.6 cm to 58.4 cm equals a 16-inch saddle.
   • A seat size greater than 58.4 cm will fit a 17-inch or 18-inch saddle.
6. Measure the seat of an English saddle. When you have found your size, you can compare it to the seat size of a saddle to determine if it is the right size for you. To measure the seat of an English saddle, measure from one of the "nails" on the left or right side of the kopijzer, straight to the center of the rear tree. This will give you the size of the saddle. (For example 41 cm which equals 16 inches).
7. Measure the seat of a western saddle. As with seat dimensions, the measurement of a western saddle seat is different from an English saddle seat. Using a tape measure or ruler, measure straight from the base of the front arch to the seat seam. Go to the base of the front arch and measure straight back in a horizontal line.
   • Be careful not to touch the front arch when measuring the seat, the angle of which will give you too large a measurement. Only go to the base of the front arch along the seams.
8. Try several different saddles. While your seat size and saddle size can be a good indication of a well-fitting saddle, the only way to really be sure that a saddle is properly fitted is to sit in it. Try many different saddles in different styles so that you can find the best fit and comfort according to your personal preferences. Make sure you adjust the stirrups to the correct length every time you try on a saddle.
   • It is better to have a saddle that is a little too big than one that is a little too small. It will be less painful for the horse and more comfortable for you to ride.
   • Bring one or two experienced friends to make sure you are properly in the saddle.

Method 4 of 4: Check the fit of the saddle on your horse

1. Check the width of the trees. Remember when you checked your horse's withers and backline? This is where it comes in handy. Place the saddle on your horse without a saddle pad or blanket. If it fits, the trees should be in contact with the horse along their entire length.
   • If the trees only touch the side of the horse's back and not the top, the saddle is too narrow.
   • If the trees only touch the top of the horse's back and not the side, the saddle is too wide.
2. Look at the depth of the tree. Depth is the angle of the tumble against the angle of the horse's back. A well-fitting saddle will have trees that follow the angle of the backline. As a result, the trees will be in contact with the horse's back over their entire length.
   • If the trees touch only the withers and hindquarters, the saddle forms a "bridge," and that causes pain to the horse. This happens if the trees are too tall, or if there is not enough depth to follow the slope of the horse's back.
   • If the trees only touch the center of the horse's back, the saddle will start to rock. This happens if the trees are too short or if the depth of the trees is too great to follow the horse's back.
3. Check the fanning of the trees. The angle at which the trees recede upwards and outwards is the fan. If little or no fanning is visible, the saddle may be too small for your horse. Make sure your saddle fans out clearly to avoid pressing into your horse's back when riding, causing pain or chafing.
4. Check the room. Place the saddle on the back of your horse without a blanket or saddle pad. Look at the room from the horse's hindquarters; you should be able to see all the way to the withers. If you can't, then the saddle is too small. Then go to the room at the withers and place as many fingers as you can vertically in the open space. With a properly fitting saddle, 2 - 2.5 fingers will fit; more than that means your saddle is too spacious, while less means the saddle is too small.

Tips

• Some saddle sizes also come in "quarterhorse" sizes. This is a different size as "small", "medium", and "large". If in doubt, measure the seat or ask for help converting the size.
• Being with a western saddle published seat measurements measured on the bare wood, before any leather or padding is added.

Warnings

• When choosing a saddle for your horse you can never fully rely on size. Always try out the saddle on the horse before purchasing.