Setting up a rabbit cage

Author: Eugene Taylor
Date Of Creation: 10 August 2021
Update Date: 1 July 2024
Anonim
How To Set Up A Rabbit Cage!
Video: How To Set Up A Rabbit Cage!

Content

If you are thinking about getting a rabbit as a pet, the first step is to make sure it has a nice place to live. Your rabbit's cage is his home when he is not in your lap or playing with you. So it's important to invest in a spacious, sturdy cage that gives him plenty of room to move. Cover the bottom of the cage with a layer of recycled bedding, then place the other supplies, such as a feeding bowl and water bottle. Also, give your rabbit some toys or other fun / tasty things to keep him entertained and make him happy when you aren't around.

To step

Part 1 of 4: Choosing a cage

  1. Buy a cage large enough to be a comfortable home for your rabbit. Make sure your rabbit has enough room to move around easily. As a general rule, you can insist that the rabbit should be able to stand upright, on its hind legs, without its ears touching the top of the cage. A cage with an interior area of ​​at least 3 square meters is usually large enough for most average sized rabbits.
    • Larger species, such as the English Lop and Flemish Giant, need a larger cage, at least 4 square meters.
    • If you are going to keep more than 2 rabbits, you will also need to purchase a larger cage.
  2. Invest in a divided cage or a multi-tiered cage. Rabbits are naturally attracted to dark, enclosed spaces. For a few extra dollars, you can purchase a divided cage, which has separate rooms or levels, allowing your pet to enjoy its privacy. This way he can withdraw when he feels like it.
    • A divided cage can be a lot more expensive than a standard single space model, but it can be worth it because of the extra interior space it offers.
    • Regardless of which cage type you choose, make sure each rabbit has its own hiding place. A private space gives your rabbit a healthy way to get rid of stress.
  3. Select a cage with a sturdy plastic bottom. Rabbits can get stuck or develop painful sores if they have to walk on a trellis floor. Cages with solid bottoms have the added benefit of being easier to cover and clean.
    • If you already have a wire-bottomed cage that you want to use, slide a piece of cardboard or wood over the bottom to give your rabbit a more comfortable walking surface.
  4. Choose a cage with a large door. The rabbit cage door must be able to open wide enough, and wide enough, to allow easy entry and exit of all necessary accessories. This includes the food bowl, the water bottle, the bed, the toilet and any toys. In addition, your rabbit must also be able to pass through it easily!
    • Some cages have multiple access points, such as an additional door or hatch on the top, which makes it easier to insert and remove accessories.
  5. Make sure there is enough room for movement. Rabbits are active creatures and don't like to sit still for long. Therefore, most of your rabbit's cage should be used for play and discovery. Ideally, the rabbit can make 3-4 jumps from one jug of the cage to the other. Being able to hop around easily will keep your rabbit happy and healthy.
    • In a standard cage of 3 square meters, only 0.75 square meters is spent on eating and sleeping.
    • Add a few simple exercise accessories, such as balls or boxes, to create a mini obstacle course for your rabbit.

Part 2 of 4: Placing the basic facilities

  1. Buy bedding that is safe for rabbits. Look for bedding that is specifically designed for rabbits or that states it is safe for rabbits. One of the best widely available materials is hay, which is edible and will keep your rabbit warm on cold nights. Pregnant females and babies should be fed alfalfa hay, while full grown rabbits can be fed normal hay (pleum pratense).
    • You can also use a dust-free bedding made from recycled wood or paper.
    • Avoid using pine and cedar wood or shavings as these can be toxic to rabbits.
  2. Spread the bedding material over the bottom of the cage. Put at least 5 -7 cm of material on the bottom, making sure it is evenly distributed everywhere. If you are using hay, pile it up around the edges of the cage so that your rabbit can graze and has an open area in the middle to play and sleep.
    • Consider placing absorbent puppy pads or a layer of newspaper under the bedding for easier cleaning and leakage protection.
    • Provides a thick layer of bedding so your rabbit doesn't develop sore heels. This is a painful condition common in rabbits sitting on hard, moist surfaces. A thick layer of bedding protects your rabbit and prevents them from coming into contact with soiled areas.
  3. Determine an area for a bed. Although rabbits usually have no problems sleeping on a soft surface, a separate bed can be a useful and fun addition to the cage. Place the bed near one corner or wall so your furry friend has plenty of room to eat, play, and stretch his legs.
    • Rabbit beds are available as woven mats, small hammocks and small plush beds similar to a dog bed.
  4. Add a toilet. Training your rabbit to use his toilet can help keep his cage cleaner and more hygienic. Look for a small animal toilet, size appropriate for the species you have, and cover the bottom with a layer of paper-based recyclable material. You can also use a mixture of torn newspaper and hay if you have that material left.
    • Don't buy clumping gravel for a litter box. This can be dangerous if your rabbit is eating it.

Part 3 of 4: Providing food, water, and toys

  1. Install a water bottle. A dropper bottle will provide your rabbit with fresh, clean drinking water throughout the day. Hang the bottle on the side of the cage with the metal hooks on the back. Make sure the drinking spout hangs low enough so that your rabbit can easily reach it without having to reach.
    • A 600 ml water bottle will provide enough water for 1 rabbit for 2 days, or for 2 rabbits for 1 day. However, it is best to buy its own bottle for each rabbit to avoid conflict.
    • Your rabbit may prefer to drink from a bowl. However, bowls tip over easily and can get food, excrement and bottom material, which means that you need to clean the bowls regularly.
  2. Place a food bowl in the cage. The bowl should be large enough to hold enough food for your rabbit, but small enough to be easy to get in and out of the cage. Leave some space between the food bowl and water bottle to prevent your rabbit's food from getting pasty.
    • If you want to feed your rabbit a balanced diet, provide two or more separate bowls - one for dry food and one for fruits and vegetables.
    • You don't need food bowls at all for distributed feeding. Just sprinkle a handful of dry food or vegetables in the cage every day. Foraging is good for your rabbit's instincts and gives him something to do.
  3. Fill the food container with a well-balanced dry food. Pellets are the most common choice, but an organic food mix is ​​also a nutrient-rich option. Dry food is usually highly concentrated and has a high nutritional value, so you only need to give your rabbit a small hand per day. They can also eat as much hay or grass when they get hungry.
    • You can also add pieces of carrot, celery, or leafy greens to the food bowl a few times a day to give your rabbit a treat and some variation in its diet.
    • For variation in the diet, you can also offer a hay rack, which you refill daily. The best food for wild rabbits is grass, so feeding your pet hay is pretty close.
  4. Give your rabbit lots of toys to play with. Rabbits can chew through soft plastic very quickly, so the stronger the toy the better. Many pet stores sell wooden blocks that are perfect for gnawing. Rope, cardboard and scraps of durable fabric or PVC can also be fun toys for active rabbits.
    • Chewing toys is not only fun for rabbits, it is also good for them. When their teeth grow too long, that can make eating very difficult.
    • Do not give your rabbit a softwood toy, as it can shatter and be a choking hazard.

Part 4 of 4: Maintaining the rabbit cage

  1. Replace the bedding when it is less than 5-7 cm. Hay or straw will diminish after a few days as your rabbit eats it. When this happens, just add another handful of material to fill in the bald spots. Recycled bedding does not need to be topped up as often, but should be refreshed when it gets wet or starts to smell.
    • Remember that your rabbit should always have a comfortable amount of bedding.
  2. Wash your rabbit's food bowl and water bottle regularly. Every month or so, give both containers a good wash with warm water and a mild liquid soap. Make sure to rinse them well when you're done, as leftover soap scraps can make your rabbit sick.
    • If you have a ceramic food bowl or water bottle, put them in the dishwasher to save time and energy.
    • You may need to clean the food bowl or water bottle more often if they look particularly dirty or come into contact with urine or faeces.
  3. Clean the toilet daily. Develop the habit of scooping out the toilet every day to keep your pet's environment healthy. Providing your rabbit with a clean toilet makes it less likely to go to the bathroom elsewhere in the cage.
    • Always wear rubber gloves and use a sealable plastic bag to dispose of your rabbit's feces.
    • A little white vinegar or bleach can be helpful for removing residual odors and bacteria.
  4. Disinfect the entire cage once a week. After moving your rabbit to a secure area in your home, take the cage outside and spray it with a mixture of 1 part chlorine bleach and 10 parts water. Let the bleach solution sit for 15-20 minutes, then rinse the cage thoroughly with a garden hose. Let the cage dry completely and then put in another layer of bedding.
    • Occasional disinfection will get rid of odors and kill harmful bacteria that could make your rabbit sick.
    • Make sure all traces of bleach (including the fumes) are gone before returning your rabbit to its cage.
  5. Keep an eye on your rabbit when it is in its cage. Check in on your rabbit every hour to make sure he is happy, comfortable and safe. If your pet is unsupervised, it could injure itself or run out of food and water without your knowing.
    • Rabbits are social creatures and don't do well if they are confined all the time. Make sure to let your rabbit out of its cage for a few hours every day to explore, play, or cuddle.

Tips

  • A dog crate can easily be transformed into a luxury rabbit house for an active or large rabbit.
  • If you have several rabbits, put a maximum of two in a cage. Otherwise, they won't have enough water, food, or space to stay healthy and happy.
  • Rabbits are the best pets in households with no cats, dogs or other large, territorial animals to injure them.

Warnings

  • Never use chicken wire to restrain a rabbit. Their teeth are much stronger than this weaker wire and they could injure themselves chewing through them.

Necessities

  • Rabbit cage
  • Hay or recycled wood or paper material for bedding.
  • Water bottle
  • Food container
  • Toilet
  • Rabbit-safe toilet filling
  • Toys
  • Water
  • Mild liquid soap
  • Chlorine bleach
  • Spray bottle