Content

• To step
• Part 1 of 2: Identifying angry cat behaviors
• Part 2 of 2: Calming an angry or fearful cat
• Tips
• Warnings

Most anger in cats stems from fear, and aggressive behavior stems from your cat's belief that it needs to defend itself. Putting your cat in a situation where fearful emotions arise will often result in anger. Knowing how to limit and prevent such situations is important for calming your angry cat.

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Part 1 of 2: Identifying angry cat behaviors

1. Think about the cause of your cat's anger. A cat's main motivation for displaying angry or aggressive behavior is fear.Cats are not as domesticated as dogs and quickly revert to wild behavior. This means that cats are just one step away from a wild animal, and many wild animals live in a constant state of vigilance, including a fear of humans. Strangers are at the top of the list of things to fear simply because a cat will not know what they are up to until it has had time to observe them and make sure they are cat-friendly. Keep in mind that the reason your cat is scared may not always be immediately obvious to you.
   • For example, your cat may start to blow at a toddler because the child pulled the cat's tail while you were away from the room. The cat may then associate the toddler with pain, causing the cat to become anxious.
   • In fact, a poorly socialized cat can have a strong fear of strangers and unfamiliar environments.
2. Recognize behaviors related to fear or anger in your cat. Reading your cat's body language can help avoid conflict. It is helpful to be able to recognize both fear and aggression. But there is an overlap between the two behaviors, so don't get caught up in distinguishing the two. Most importantly, you can see that the cat is stressed, and stress leads to possible attacks. Be aware that a cat can change from calm to anxious or angry within seconds. Signs of fear or aggression are:
   • Pilo erection (hair on end)
   • Dilated pupils
   • Staring at you directly (prior to attack)
   • Avert his gaze (fear)
   • Stiff whiskers pulled back
   • Ears flat against his head
   • A crooked posture
   • Growling
   • The lips pulled back and blow.
3. Think about the purpose behind normal "angry" behavior. While most of these behaviors are often seen as signs that an angry cat is about to attack, the behaviors are more appropriate for a stressed and anxious cat looking to escape the situation.
4. Watch for signs of "diverted aggression." This term applies when a cat is angered by another cat or person, even if the source of the anger was a completely different cat or person. If this happens to two cats living together, it can be difficult to get them back together, depending on how severe the attack was.
5. Watch for biting during play. Be aware that cats can become over-enthusiastic during play and can bite or scratch, which can be misconstrued as aggressive behavior.
   • If your cat is in a more aggressive play mood, you can always use dangling toys to protect your hands and fingers from playful biting.
6. Distinguish between fearful behavior and petting-induced aggression. Petting-induced aggression is common in some cats. The behavior does not necessarily have to occur with the first pat. The cat may seem to enjoy petting, then suddenly become aggressive towards the act. But this is not to be confused with anger. Reasons behind the aggression can be:
   • The cat using the behavior as a way of saying That's enough, thank you.
   • The cat that gets so sleepy with pleasure that it is suddenly startled and biting in self-defense.
   • This form of aggression is common in single kittens (only one kitten in the litter) or hand-reared kittens. They lack socialization with other kittens, who would kick back if they lash out or bite too hard. But DO NOT hit back at your cat yourself. Instead, learn to read the body language that will cause the cat to freak out. The cat may give a single, full-blown stroke of the tail, or he may stop purring and the skin on his back may have convulsions. At that point, immediately stop petting the cat and stand up to push it off your lap.

Part 2 of 2: Calming an angry or fearful cat

1. First of all, take care of your own safety. If your cat is angry with you or has diverted its aggression towards you, you are a potential target for an attack, which could result in scratching or biting. But most cats won't actually attack unless you keep challenging them after the first warning signs.
   • If you really need to handle the cat, wear protective clothing and throw a blanket over the cat to suppress the animal. But this is only a short-term fix if it is necessary to catch the cat due to possible injuries. It won't do anything to take the cat in for you, and will even make it less cooperative next time.
   • Keep a water gun within reach if you live with a cat. It can be an ideal method for spraying an angry cat without getting your hands close. It can be enough to separate fighting cats and can certainly be a good means of protecting you if the cat decides to attack you because of redirected aggression.
2. Take your distance. The best step to take once you see behavior in your cat that indicates anger or fear is to simply distance yourself. Walk away from the cat in such a way that the fearful response diminishes. If possible, leave the room where the cat is, or if the cat reacts to another person or animal, let them leave the room. If you are unable to exit the room, make sure you distance yourself in a way that does not block the exit, as the cat may want to leave the room.
   • You will likely want to leave the cat alone for 10 or 20 minutes so that it has time to calm down.
   • If the "threat" is another cat you just brought into your home, the habituation process may take time and you should keep the cats separate and only gradually get used to each other. You can find more information on this topic at: How to Get a Second Cat and Not Upset the Old Cat.
3. Make yourself small. Do not stand over or stare at the cat when it is in an excited state, as this exacerbates the threat. If you are not in immediate danger and want to help a fearful cat feel more secure, either lie on the floor so that you are less threatening or make yourself small by sitting.
4. Ignore the cat. By not focusing on the cat at all, you give it a chance to judge you at its own pace and realize that you are not a threat.
   • This also includes relaxing your body language and your voice. Try talking to someone else in the room or singing softly to yourself. Rather than creating tension, this reinforces the impression that the cat has nothing to worry about.
5. Clear safe areas for your cat. Often times, your cat will deal with its own anxious reactions by finding a safe place to hide. For example, if your cat is afraid of strangers, it will likely hide at the first sign of a doorbell or knock on the door. Consider placing the cat's cage in a quiet, undisturbed room so that the cat has a place to hide until it decides it's ready to emerge.
   • Cats can feel a similar sense of security in high places. Consider getting a cat tower with a high seat for the cat to retreat to, especially if a new dog in the house is the reason for your cat's anxious behavior.
6. Approach your cat calmly and cautiously. After giving your cat time and space to calm down, you can approach it gently without actually touching the cat. You have to make sure that all visible signs of anger are gone, including the upright hair, bladders and crooked back. However, even if these visible signs are gone, your cat may still have feelings of anger and want to run and be scared, so it's important to take it easy.
7. Let the cat come to you. Sit or lie on the floor with a treat in your hand. Let the cat sniff and explore around you. Even if the cat keeps its distance and just looks at you, it builds confidence in the long run that you are not a threat.
   • If your cat hasn't been socialized with humans at all for the first 12 weeks of life, this step is crucial. The cat will only become more afraid of you if you try to make contact with it first. Always let the cat initiate physical contact by sniffing at you and rubbing its head against you. This will transfer some of the cat's scent to you and make you a bit safer in its eyes. But even then you shouldn't reach for the cat. Think of this as a test. You can pass the test by sitting completely still and making the cat feel in control. Only when he has come to you regularly can you slowly approach him and try to pet the animal.
8. Use food. Shake a bag of kibble or open a can of your cat's favorite food and put it in the food bowl. Make sure there is plenty of fresh water available, as the cat can be very thirsty after such intense emotions. But don't force your cat to eat or drink. The animal will know it is there when it is ready.
9. Don't punish the cat. Never punish your cat under any circumstances. Remember, aggression comes from fear, so punishing your cat will only make it more fearful and show it in a different aggressive way. Instead, fight anger with loving patience.
10. Contact your vet. Illness or pain can cause your cat to display anger or aggressive behavior. If your cat suddenly begins to display angry or fearful behaviors while previously being docile (or if you're just not making progress with the steps above), see the vet to rule out any medical conditions.
    • Common causes include high fever, toothache, gum disease, abscesses, wounds, arthritis, fractures, ear problems, and strains or sprains. Hairballs can sometimes trigger an angry reaction in a cat when the hairball is causing colic or stomach inflammation.
    • If the vet determines that the problem is not a disease, he or she may suggest sedatives if nothing else will help keep your cat calm.
    • If your cat exhibits the behavior in relation to a very specific event - such as car trips or visits to the vet - your vet may also prescribe a mild anesthetic for your cat. This will allow you to pre-numb the cat before exposing it to the stressful situation. After experiencing the situation a few times while sedated, you may even notice that your cat is no longer as sensitive to the stressor.
11. Let the cat get used to the stressor in the environment. In situations where the person or thing that triggers a fearful response in your cat cannot actually harm the cat, try to get the cat used to it in the same way that people usually get over their own phobias.
    • For example, if the stressor is a person, start by hearing the cat speak to the person in another room until it stops working. Then continue by letting the person be on the other side of the same room as the cat, ignoring the cat completely, until this has no effect. Allow the person to get closer until the cat finally decides to make contact.
    • To add a counter-conditioning element to the habituation training, you can include chunks in the process. This will not only make the cat less sensitive to the stressor, but will also cause the cat to start associating the person with positive reinforcement.
12. Have patience. Depending on the degree of socialization the cat has had as a small kitten, the time it takes for the cat to gain confidence can range from a few days to a few years.

Tips

• Consider having your cat spayed or neutered as these procedures can affect hormone levels that can lead to dominant or aggressive behavior.
• If the source of aggravation is the neighbor's cat, keep your cat indoors or arrange with your neighbors for the cats to be out at different times. Explain to your neighbors that this benefits both their cat and your cat.
• Changes in routine can make a cat feel anxious and therefore angry. When moving furniture, moving house or going to work other hours, etc., make sure your cat is reassured and has access to a safe, quiet place and is fed, groomed and brushed at regular, set times.
• If you've recently taken a trip and had a cat sitter, or if you've put your cat in a boarding house, you may notice some aggressive behavior upon your return. Be patient for a few days while the cat adjusts again.
• An overweight cat can become aggressive if it is unable to properly groom itself and has fleas. Flush him and talk to your vet about weight loss.
• Only pet the cat where it can see your hand, otherwise it may become stressed and scratch you.

Warnings

• Food and water bowls work the same way. If they are fighting over food, put food bowls in separate areas at about the same time. The bossy cat cannot be in two places at the same time, and the submissive cat can still eat.
• When you move, expect your cat to be uncomfortable for a while unless you move so often that the cat is used to moving. Take it easy, give the cat some space, and accompany the journey with new treats and toys so that he has something to look forward to when "moving" in addition to being stuffed into a carrier and having to explore new territory.
• If you have multiple cats, they can fight over which litter box belongs to whom. Some cats don't mind sharing, but other cats do. Make sure every cat has a clean litter box. Whether or not they let each other in is up to them and how well they get along, but this one point of privacy is important for multiple cats to live together.