Content

• To step
• Part 1 of 3: Choosing the right bonsai tree
• Part 2 of 3: Planting mature trees
• Part 3 of 3: Growing a tree from a seed
• Tips

The art of growing bonsai trees is over a thousand years old. Although mostly associated with Japan, the cultivation of bonsai trees originated in China, where the trees were eventually associated with Zen Buddhism. Bonsai trees are also used today for decorative and recreational purposes, beyond their traditional uses. Caring for bonsai trees allows the grower to play a contemplative yet creative role in the growth of an icon of natural beauty.

To step

Part 1 of 3: Choosing the right bonsai tree

1. Select a tree species that is suitable for your climate. Not all bonsai trees are the same. Many woody perennial crops and even some tropical plants can be used to make bonsai trees, but not every variety will suit your specific location. When choosing a strain, it is important to keep in mind the climate in which the tree will grow. For example, some trees die in the freezing cold, while for others the temperature must drop below freezing, so that they can go into hibernation in preparation for spring. Before you start with a bonsai tree, make sure the strain you have chosen can live in your area - especially if you want to keep it out. Garden center staff can help you if you're unsure.
   • A bonsai variety that is well suited for beginners is juniper. These evergreen trees are hardy and can survive throughout the Northern Hemisphere, and even the more temperate regions of the Southern Hemisphere. In addition, juniper trees are easy to grow - they respond well to pruning and other "workouts" and, because they stay green, they never lose their leaves.
   • Other conifers often grown as bonsai trees include pine, spruce, and cedar of all kinds. Deciduous trees are another option - Japanese maples are especially beautiful, as are magnolias, elms and oaks. Finally, some non-woody tropical plants, such as the crassula ovata and serissa foetida, are good indoor choices in cool or temperate climates.
2. Decide whether you want the tree indoors or outdoors. The needs of an indoor or outdoor bonsai can be very different. In general, it is drier indoors and there is less light than outdoors, so you will want to choose trees that require less light and moisture. Below are some of the most common bonsai varieties, grouped according to their indoor or outdoor suitability:
   • Within: Ficus, Schefflera, Serissa, Gardenia, Camellia, Boxwood.
   • Outside: Juniper, Cypress, Cedar, Maple, Birch, Beech, Ginkgo, Larch, Elm.
   • Note that some hardy varieties, such as junipers, are suitable for both indoor and outdoor use as long as they are cared for properly.
3. Choose the size of your bonsai. Bonsai trees come in all sizes. Full grown trees can be as little as 6 inches or up to three feet, depending on the species. If you choose to grow your bonsai tree from a seedling or cutting from another tree, they can start even smaller. Larger plants need more water, soil and sunlight, so make sure you have everything you need before making your purchase.
   • A few things to keep in mind when choosing the size of your bonsai tree:
     • The size of the pot you will be using
     • The available space in your home or office
     • The amount of sunlight available in your home or office
     • The amount of care you can take on your tree (larger trees require more pruning)
4. Visualize the final product when choosing a plant. Once you have decided what kind and size of bonsai you would like, you can go to a nursery or bonsai store to choose the plant that will become your bonsai tree. When choosing a plant, go for a tree with bright, healthy green leaves or needles and make sure the plant is healthy (keep in mind that the leaf color of deciduous trees can be different in fall). Finally, once you've picked out the healthiest, most beautiful plants, think about what each plant will look like after pruning. Part of the fun of growing a bonsai tree is gently pruning and shaping it until it looks just the way you want it - this can take years. Choose a tree whose natural shape matches the pruning and / or shaping plan you have in mind.
   • Note that if you choose to grow a bonsai tree from a seed, you have the ability to control the growth of your tree at almost any stage of its development. However, it can take up to 5 years (depending on the type of tree) for a full bonsai tree to grow from a seed. For that reason, if you want to start pruning and shaping your tree (almost) immediately, you better buy a fully grown plant.
   • Another option is to grow your bonsai tree from a cutting. Cuttings are branches cut from growing trees and transferred to new soil to grow a separate (but genetically identical) plant. Cuttings are a good compromise - they don't take as long to grow as seeds, but they still give you quite a bit of control over the tree's growth.
5. Choose a pot. A characteristic of bonsai trees is that they are planted in pots that limit their growth. The most important factor in deciding which pot to use is making sure the pot is large enough to allow enough soil to cover the roots of the plant. When you water your tree, it absorbs moisture from the soil through its roots. You must ensure that there is not so little soil in the pot that the roots cannot absorb moisture. You should also make sure there are one or more drainage holes in the bottom of your pot to prevent the roots from rotting. If they are not there, you can also drill them yourself.
   • While your pot should be large enough to support your tree, you also want your bonsai tree to look neat and tidy. With a pot that is too large, the tree appears very small, so that the whole is out of proportion. Buy a pot that is large enough for the roots of the tree, but not much bigger - the idea is that the pot will complement the tree in appearance, but not be too obvious.
   • Some prefer to grow their bonsai trees in simple, practical pots, then transfer them to nicer pots when they are fully grown. This is especially helpful if you have a fragile tree species, so you can delay purchasing the "nice" pot until your tree is healthy and beautiful.

Part 2 of 3: Planting mature trees

1. Prepare the tree. If you've just bought a bonsai from the store and it came in an unattractive plastic pot, or you've grown your own bonsai tree and finally want to plant it in the perfect pot, you need to prepare it before repotting it. First, make sure the tree is pruned to the shape you want. If you want the tree to grow in a certain way after repotting, tie tight wire around the tree or branch to gently guide the growth. You want your tree to be in top shape before you transplant it into a new pot, which can be a major operation for the plant.
   • Know that trees with seasonal cycles (many deciduous trees, for example) are best repotted in the spring. Rising temperatures in the spring cause many plants to grow faster, which means they will recover more quickly from pruning branches and roots.
   • Give less water before repotting. It is much easier to work with dry, loose soil than with moist soil.
2. Remove the tree and clean the roots. Carefully remove the plant from its current pot and make sure that the trunk does not break or tear. If necessary, use a scoop to help pry the plant loose. Most of the roots will have been cut before the plant is transferred to the bonsai pot. But in order to have a good view of the roots, it is usually necessary to wipe away the dirt attached to them. Clean the roots, wiping away clumps of soil that are restricting your view. You can use carrot rakes, sticks, tweezers, or similar tools for this.
   • The roots don't have to be squeaky clean - just clean enough that you can see what you're doing as you prune them.
3. Prune the roots. If their growth is not adequately controlled, bonsai trees can easily grow out of their pots. To keep your bonsai tree manageable and tidy, prune its roots when potting. Prune away any large, thick and upward-facing roots, leaving a network of long, thin roots at the surface of the soil. Water is absorbed from the root tips, so many thin roots are usually better in a small pot than a single large, deep one.
4. Prepare the pot. Before planting the tree in the pot, prepare a base of fresh, new soil so that the tree will be at the desired height. Place a layer of coarse soil at the bottom of your empty pot as a base. Then add a finer, looser growing medium or soil above. Use soil or medium that drains well - regular garden soil can retain too much water, which can cause the tree to drown. Leave some space at the top of your pot so you can cover the roots of your tree.
5. Plant the tree. Place the tree in your new pot in the desired direction. Add the rest of your fine, water-draining soil or growing medium to the pot, covering the tree's root system. You can also add a layer of moss or gravel. This looks nice, and can also help keep your tree in place.
   • If your tree is not standing upright in your new pot, tie sturdy wire from the bottom of the pot through the drainage holes. Tie the wire around the root system to hold the plant in place.
   • You can apply gauze to the pot's drainage holes to prevent soil erosion, which can occur when soil flows out of the pot through the drainage holes along with water.
6. Take care of your new bonsai tree. Your new tree has just undergone a radical, somewhat traumatic process. Leave your tree in a sheltered spot, protected from wind and direct sunlight, for 2-3 weeks after repotting. Water the plant, but do not use fertilizer until the roots have recovered. By giving your tree some air after repotting, you allow it to adjust to its new home and eventually thrive.
   • As mentioned above, deciduous trees with annual cycles go through a period of intensive growth in the spring. For that reason, it is better to repot deciduous trees in the spring, after their hibernation is over. If your deciduous tree is an indoor plant, after it has taken root after repotting, you may want to put it outside where the rising temperature and additional sunlight can fuel its natural "growth spurt."
   • Once your bonsai tree is up, you may want to experiment by adding other small plants to the pot. If carefully arranged and maintained (just like your tree) these additions can allow you to create a very pleasant looking tableau. Try to use plants that are from the same area as your bonsai tree so that one water and light regime will support all the plants in the pot equally well.

Part 3 of 3: Growing a tree from a seed

1. Buy your seeds. Growing a bonsai tree from a single seed is an extremely long and slow process. Depending on the type of tree you want to grow, it can take 4-5 years for the trunk to reach a diameter of just 1 inch. Some seeds also require carefully controlled conditions to germinate. But this method may also be the ultimate bonsai tree experience, because this gives you total control over the growth of the plant from the moment it breaks through the earth. To start, buy seeds of your desired tree species at a garden center, or collect them in nature.
   • Many deciduous trees, such as oaks, beeches and maples, have very recognizable seed pods (acorns, etc.) that are released by the tree every year. Because these seeds are so easy to obtain, these types of trees are a great choice if you want to grow a bonsai tree from a seed.
   • Try to get fresh seeds. The time frame in which tree seeds can germinate is often shorter than with flower or vegetable seeds. For example, oak seeds (acorns) are most "fresh" when they are harvested early in the fall and are still slightly green.
2. Let the seed germinate. Once you have collected suitable seeds for your bonsai tree, you will need to take care of them so that they can germinate. In non-tropical regions with perennial seasons, seeds usually fall from trees in the fall, then remain in place all winter until they sprout in the spring. Seeds from native trees are usually biologically coded to germinate only when they experience the cold temperatures of winter and the gradually growing warmth of spring. In these cases, it is necessary to either expose your seed to these conditions or give them the necessary boost in your refrigerator.
   • If you live in a temperate environment with fixed seasons, you can simply bury the seed from your tree in a pot full of soil and leave it outside all winter, until spring. If you don't, you can keep your seeds in a refrigerator during the winter. Place your seeds in a sealable plastic bag with a loose, moist growing medium (e.g. vermiculite) and take them out in the spring when you see them sprout.
     • To mimic the natural cycle of gradually decreasing and then increasing temperature that takes place from late fall to early spring, place your seed bag in the bottom of the refrigerator initially. During the next two weeks, slowly raise it, shelf by shelf, until it is at the top, next to the cooling unit. Then, at the end of winter, reverse the process, placing the bag lower by shelf.
3. Place your seedlings in a seed tray or pot. When your seedlings have sprouted, you are ready to start tending them in a container filled with soil. If you let your seeds germinate naturally outside, you can usually leave them in the pot they sprouted in. If not, move your healthy seeds from the refrigerator to a pre-filled pot or seed tray. Dig a small hole for your seed and bury it so its main bud is facing up and its main root is facing down. Water your seed immediately. Try to keep the soil around the seed moist, but not soaking wet or muddy or the plant could rot.
   • Only use fertilizer after about 5 or 6 weeks, after the plants are grounded in their new pot. Start small, with very small amounts of fertilizer, or you could "burn" the young roots of the plant, damaging them from too much exposure to the chemicals in the fertilizer.
4. Keep your seedlings in an environment with an appropriate temperature. While your seeds continue to grow, it is important not to expose them directly to cold temperatures or you risk losing your young plants. If you live in an area with a warm spring, you can gently introduce your new seedlings to a warm but sheltered spot outside, taking care not to expose your trees to strong winds or constant sunlight, provided your tree species is one of those. can survive naturally in your geographic area. However, if you are growing tropical plants or sprouting seeds out of season, it may be better to keep your plants indoors or in a greenhouse where it is warmer.
   • Regardless of where you keep your young seedlings, it is important to make sure they get regular, but not too much, water. Keep the soil moist, but not soaking wet.
5. Take care of your young seedlings. Continue your watering and gentle sun exposure regimen as your seedling grows. From deciduous tree seeds, two small leaves called cotyledons grow before true leaves develop and continue to grow. As your tree grows (again, this process usually takes years) you may gradually plant it in larger and larger pots to suit its growth until you get the size you want for your bonsai tree.
   • Once your tree is grounded, you can leave it outdoors in a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, provided your tree species can survive naturally in your geographic location. You may need to keep tropical plants and other vulnerable bonsai species indoors permanently if your local climate is unsuitable.

Tips

• Plant your tree in a large pot and then let it grow for a year or two to increase the thickness of the trunk.
• Root pruning can help the tree cope with its small environment.
• You can also make bonsai trees from other tree species.
• Let your tree grow into the next season before attempting to shape or prune it.
• Don't let him die and take care of him.
• Try to focus on basic styles, such as vertical, casual, and waterfall.