Content

• Tips
• Warnings
• What do you need

1 Remove the pump casing - Most often the pump casing is secured to the motor plate with a large metal clamping ring or a few nuts and bolts. Using a socket or adjustable wrench, remove the retaining clip nut, or loosen and twist the row of nuts and bolts. On some pumps, instead of a nut, the clamp is held by a special handle. Move aside the other half of the pumping unit, which contains the motor. It is best to install the pump on a suitable work surface. Note: Conduit can be left in place, but if additional space is required, you can disconnect the wires from the motor. Do not forget to turn OFF the POWER in advance and remember the order of connecting the leads, so that later on correctly reconnecting!

2 Reach the impeller - Unscrew the screws on the impeller cover (diffuser). Remove the impeller cover (diffuser). Do not lose the fastening screws!

3 Since you opened the pool pump, now is the time to inspect the impeller for damage. The impeller is more susceptible to wear and damage than other parts, so having inspected it now, you will not need to disassemble and repair the pump again after a while.

4 The impeller may show traces of heat damage and melting, and in the case of impeller cavitation, the leading edge of the blades may have cracks and shallow depressions. If damaged, the impeller must be replaced.

5 Remove the impeller - It is necessary to wedge the motor shaft so that it does not rotate while you remove and turn the impeller counterclockwise. It is not recommended to use a vise to fix the motor shaft. Instead, remove the cap in the center of the motor on the opposite side of the shaft and lock the shaft to a stationary position with a screwdriver or open-ended wrench. Unscrew and remove the impeller.

6 Remove Seal Washer - Remove the washer from the motor to expose the shaft. Typically, the seal washer is attached to the engine with four bolts. Before removing the washer, you must first remove the impeller.

7 Remove old split seal - Using pliers, remove the old pump spring seal from the motor shaft. In the center of the seal washer is the ceramic part of the pump seal. Take care not to damage the plastic part of the seal washer. Instead, it can be pushed out from the back - gently knock out the old ceramic seal with a screwdriver. Note: Make sure to remove the rubber seat ring along with the ceramic.

8 Cleaning and preparing for seal replacement - Lightly wipe the motor shaft and seal washer. Inspect the washer for damage; if there are cracks, melted or non-circular spots, the pump will leak even with a new seal. Inspect the impeller carefully to make sure it is not damaged either.

9 Install a new split seal - Note: NEVER touch the FRONT SIDE of the ceramic with metal or oily objects to avoid damaging the integrity of the pump seal. Gently press the ceramic portion of the seal against the washer with clean fingers until it snaps into place (rubber side to seal washer, white ceramic front facing motor). Slide the spring part of the seal over the motor shaft. It should be behind the threads (the black graphite surface of the spring side should be in contact with the white ceramic surface). DO NOT LUBRICATE this seal with anything other than water! Otherwise, the impeller will slip and the seal will overheat and be damaged.

10 Reinstalling the impeller - Using the above method with a vise, secure the motor shaft so that it does not rotate, then screw the impeller back on. TIGHTEN BY MANUAL. It will not weaken due to the rotation of the pump motor.

11 Reinstalling the diffuser - Place the diffuser in place and tighten the bolts. Check that the impeller does not touch the diffuser by turning it with your finger.

12 Reassemble pump and motor - Check for damage or cracks on the large o-ring of the seal washer and lubricate it. If the ring becomes flat or elongated, then it must be replaced. Check that the retaining ring is positioned around the outer rim on both sides of the packing washer and pump casing. An accurate fit can be challenging. Tighten the clamping strap with a wrench or by hand if the pump has a special handle. If the shroud is secured with nuts and bolts, they must be reinstalled and tightened.

Tips

• If the pump filter screen has melted, the seal washer is most likely to be thermally damaged and must be replaced.
• Pumps are often leaking due to a defective main seal. Even minor water leakage through the main seal can lead to future pump failure.
• If the pump is leaking around the seal washer, you can try tightening it a little more. Is the o-ring greased? If it still leaks, then it is necessary to replace the O-ring of the seal washer.
• If water flows through the main seal, it flows out directly at the engine air intake. Continuous flow of the main seal will contact the inside of the pump with chlorinated water, causing the bearings to rust and make noise.
• Tips for removing a tight impeller. If it is difficult to reach and grasp the impeller, or if it is difficult to keep the shaft stationary, try the following: Take a piece of linen or other suitable rope and thread it through the impeller inlet and outlet, and wrap the ends around a strong, long bar. Hold the other end of the shaft and turn the bar counterclockwise as above. If it is difficult to keep the end of the shaft stationary, use a sleeve secured to the mount with short sections of cut clothes hangers inserted into the sleeve from the flat sides between the sleeve and the pump shaft to prevent rotation. Never thread solid materials such as wire instead of rope into the impeller, as it is very easy to damage it. If the impeller is hard to twist, be prepared for a sudden kickback. Apply a small amount of loose grease or anti-seize compound to the pump shaft threads before reinstalling the impeller.
• Noisy motor bearings make a high-pitched or metallic sound that gets worse over time.
• If the pump leaks at the seal: Is the seal washer cracked? Is the seal properly seated (the black graphite surface of the spring side must be in contact with the white ceramic surface)?
• BEFORE opening the pump to replace the seal, check all other pump parts for leaks. Replacing the seal is the most difficult repair for a leaking pump and should be considered the last option. Leaks are possible from cracked piping, threaded connections, and loose insulation plugs. Establishing a water source is difficult.
• The impeller must be free of erosion marks. The impeller installed at the factory can be completely plastic. The spare impeller has a threaded brass shaft insert for better sealing. If there are signs of erosion around the shaft gasket, the impeller is best replaced.

Warnings

• Observe precautions!
• Turn off the power BEFORE performing the above steps. Failure to do so can result in fatal electric shock!

What do you need

• Keys, bushings, screwdrivers, vise, new seal, grease, clean rag.
• Before starting work, see the catalog numbers of all parts that will be required when replacing the pump seal.
• Usually, the process of replacing the seal is described in detail in the user manual for the pump, therefore, when performing the work described in the article, it is recommended to have such a manual at hand.