Content

• Steps
• Method 1 of 3: Content
• Method 2 of 3: Feeding
• Method 3 of 3: Health
• Tips
• Warnings
• What do you need

Peacocks are incredibly beautiful birds that are more suitable for farms and countryside. Peacocks can be watched for hours when males spread their tails. A peacock is a male and a peacock is a female, but most people call individuals of both sexes peacocks.

Steps

Method 1 of 3: Content

1. 1 Keep chicks warm. The chicks should spend the first 4-6 weeks of life in a warm room. It is best to start at 35 degrees Celsius and gradually lower the temperature every week, however these conditions depend primarily on your geographic location and the time of year.
   • Monitor the behavior of the chicks to understand what temperature they need. If the chicks are cold, they will clump together. If they are hot, they will try to run as far away from the heat source as possible. If the chicks do neither, it means that you have managed to find a comfortable temperature.
2. 2 Build a spacious paddock. This will prevent the birds from flying away. The height of the fence should be at least two and a half meters, because otherwise it will be difficult for peacocks to fly inside and straighten their tail. For walls and ceilings, a chain-link mesh is suitable. The roof should be sloping, not flat.
   • If you have a male, make sure he can spread his tail in the pen. If the pen is too small for him, he will damage the feathers.
3. 3 Build a wooden shelter that looks like a shed or garage. It can be completely inside the building or adjoin one side to the street. In this place, peacocks will sleep and incubate chicks. Heating lamps can be installed inside, and the floor can be covered with straw. Build perches and anchor perches. The entire paddock must be well protected from foxes, wolves and other predators.
   • If the problem of predators is urgent for you, place a radio near the perch and keep it on. Predators will not give themselves away if they hear human voices.
4. 4 Don't let peacocks run free. While captive-bred peacocks usually do not stray far from where they were raised, they can go wild if allowed to do what they want. Keep them in a fenced-in area if you are afraid they will fly away.
5. 5 Don't get too many birds. This not only worsens the housing conditions for each bird, but also contributes to disease epidemics, as a result of which the birds die. Each individual must have at least 25 square meters of space.

Method 2 of 3: Feeding

1. 1 Install feeders and drinkers. Attach the feeder to the ceiling so that it hangs down on a long chain (this will prevent the mice from reaching the food). Drinking bowls can be fixed in the same way - this will keep them from getting litter. You can also put buckets of 10-15 liters of water.
2. 2 Feed the peacocks. In the first three months of life, the diet of peacocks should be saturated with proteins. Look at the pet store for special foods with 20-30% protein.As they grow older, gradually wean the peacocks from such food, since an excess of protein in adults can lead to deformation of the paws. ...
3. 3 Wean birds off feed gradually. You can start at three months, and it is best to stretch the process for 6 weeks. Watch the peacocks for reaction: if they refuse other food, give them what they are used to and try again to offer another food the next day. You can stick to the following plan:
   • 1 Week: 3 parts baby food and 1 part adult bird food
   • 2 week: 2.5 parts baby food and 1 part adult bird food
   • 3 week: 2 parts baby food and 1 part adult bird food
   • 4 week:1.5 parts baby food and 1 part adult bird food
   • 5 week:1 part baby food and 1 part adult bird food
   • 6 week: 0.5 parts baby food and 1 part adult bird food
   • 7 week: only food for adult birds.
4. 4 Give the peacocks treats from time to time. Too much treats can cause health problems, but sparingly can help you tie your birds to the house and teach them how to swallow medication. Serve fruit, vegetables, bread, savory muesli, and dog or cat food for treats. Do not give them small bones, as birds can suffocate from them.

Method 3 of 3: Health

1. 1 Monitor the health of the peacocks. To prevent the development of diseases or start treatment on time, it is necessary to show the peacock to the veterinarian after purchase, and then do it once a year.
2. 2 Treat against worms. Give the caged peacocks an anthelmintic drug in a month. Peacocks that live in open spaces should receive these medications every three months. There are many anthelminthics available, although many are primarily intended for dogs, cats, chickens, turkeys or cows. Peacocks can be given the following drugs:
   • Piperazine... This anthelmintic comes in liquid and tablet form. The liquid is dissolved in water and given to several chicks at once. The tablet must be thrown down the throat.
   • Ivomek... This is another effective remedy for worms, which, however, is powerless against capillaries. If you decide to use this medication, alternate with Panacur, which works well for capillaries. Do not give these two drugs at the same time. Http://www.peafowl.org/ARTICLES/21/
   • Ivermectin... This remedy is indicated for birds that participate in reproduction. The drug can be disguised in a treat or thrown down the throat.
3. 3 Track surface vermin. In addition to worms, lice and other parasites can also affect peacocks.
   • Lice... These insects spend their entire life on the host's body, feeding on skin cells and feather particles. If you find lice in one of the birds, all peacocks will need to be treated with special agents.
   • Pliers... These insects are less susceptible to handling than lice. If you find ticks in your peacocks, you will need to process the birds every 10 days for 4-5 weeks. After that, as a preventive measure, treatment should be carried out every month until you are completely sure that there are no more ticks.
   • Trombiculide mites... These parasites live on the legs, chest, wings of the bird, causing redness on the skin. In case of infestation with these mites, the entire pen must be treated.
4. 4 Avoid the development of diseases caused by protozoa. Protozoa are unicellular organisms that cause infections and other diseases in animals. It is important to know about the following diseases:
   • Coccidiosis... This disease is usually confirmed in birds at the age of 3-12 weeks. The disease is not contagious. The main symptom is liquid, dark droppings. To get rid of this disease, add a sulfa drug to food, and it is best to carry out prevention at this age to prevent coccidiosis.
   • Histomoniasis... This disease usually affects birds between 5 and 14 weeks of age. Symptoms include drowsiness, weakness, and thin, yellowish droppings. Histomoniasis is contagious. Metronidazole or copper sulfate will help cope with the disease.
   • Leukocytosis... In this disease, the protozoa attack the white blood cells of the bird. Symptoms include severe anemia, weakness, loss of appetite, and difficulty walking. The carriers of the disease are usually flies and blood-sucking midges, which are hatched in damp conditions. It is recommended to keep birds indoors during the active season of these insects. If your peacocks are infected, give them sulfa drug or clopidol.
   • Pigeon malaria. This disease affects red blood cells. Symptoms include weakness and loss of appetite, and in the worst case, the animal dies. Carriers of pigeon malaria, like leukocytosis, are blood-sucking midges. To prevent infection, protect the peacocks from insects and give them a small amount of antimalarial drugs or clopidol if you fear your birds might get sick.

Tips

• Don't scare the peacocks. A frightened peacock can fly up abruptly and damage its wings or tail against the walls of the pen.
• Prepare food for the peacocks yourself. If you cannot find a suitable food or do not want to use it, prepare the food yourself. Mix chicken feed, rice, wheat, barley. You can add corn and food for large dogs.
• The cage should be large enough for the male to spread its tail and fly a little. There should be high perches on all sides of the pen.
• Watch out for small predators. They can kill peacocks or steal their eggs.
• If the female is about to lay eggs, fill a large, clean car tire with straw for her, then place the tire in a wooden shed. If this is not done, the bird will lay eggs on the ground, where they will be crushed or stolen by a predator.
• Remember that peacocks can mate with up to six peacocks in one mating season.
• Be careful not to release the peacocks when you enter their enclosure. Use a broom to scare birds away if necessary. Provide a lock that can be opened without a key and that will snap into place. If the peacocks break free, they will either sit on a tree or fly away for good. They can also nest on a flock of wild turkeys, as peacocks and turkeys are closely related bird species.
• Peacocks love rain, so simulate rain by directing water through the roof of the pen.

Warnings

• Do not give chocolate, coffee or alcohol to birds as these are toxic substances.
• Although peacocks can be kept with chickens, this is dangerous because chickens are often carriers of histomonosis and can infect peacocks with it. It is best to keep the birds separately.
• Since peacocks usually do not have their wings clipped, the pen should be large in height and width.
• Keeping peacocks in urban environments is not recommended due to their loud voice.
• Peacocks are often hunted by foxes. Males fly up trees in order to protect themselves, so there are usually more males than females.
• Hide any metal objects (coins, toys, nails, wire scraps and solder) from the peacocks.
• Do not keep two males in the same pen. They can and will fight, and as a result of such fights, often someone dies.

What do you need

• Rabitz
• Wood
• Nails
• Bird food
• Dog food
• Fruit or vegetables
• Hay, straw or similar material
• Hanging drinkers and feeders