Content

• Method 2 of 2: Alternative Methods to Control Tarnishing
• Tips
• Warnings

1 Wash your silver frequently and immediately after use. Silver, rarely used, tarnishes. When the garment hasn't tarnished yet or is just beginning to show, simply wash your silver in warm water with a gentle phosphate-free detergent. Use a non-lemon detergent as it can stain silver.

• Wash silver separately from other utensils because metal sinks and utensils can scratch the silver and the stainless steel outer coating can be damaged if it comes into contact with the silver.
• Do not wear rubber gloves when cleaning silver, as rubber will corrode silver. Use a soft cloth to gently rub the silver; wipe it dry immediately after cleaning with a soft towel. Polish the tarnished silver gently to a shine with a soft cotton cloth.
• You can use nitrile gloves, they do not contain sulfur, which stains silver. Cotton gloves are also acceptable.

2 Do not use a dishwasher to wash your silver. High temperatures and harsh washing can lead to discoloration and damage to the silver (especially the carved parts). All silver must be cleaned by hand.

3 Polish the silver as soon as a slight tarnishing appears on it. Tarnishing is a thin layer of corrosion that naturally occurs on the outer surface of silver and other metals. If you notice dark, tarnished areas on a silver piece, you are unlikely to be able to remove them simply by brushing by hand. Special polishes are the safest for silver, especially when it comes to antiques with an intricate etched pattern. Read the manufacturer's instructions carefully and follow them.

• It is best to use a cellulose sponge for polishing because it won't scratch like other sponges that come with some polishes. You can also use cotton balls and flattened cotton swabs to clean the spaces between the tines of the forks.
• Dampen a soft silver polish cloth or the sponge that came with the polish.
• Only rub the silver in a straight forward and backward motion (not in a circular motion). Don't rub too hard, let the polish do the trick.
• Rinse the silver under running water.
• Dry with a soft, clean cloth.

4 Try not to scratch the silver. Using a silver tray as a cutting board is not a good idea. Do not store sharp-edged objects in silver containers, and if you store silverware in a stack, there should be a layer between each object. Do not throw silverware into the sink as it may scratch each other or other dishes.

5 Store your silver properly. Aside from prompt and frequent cleaning, the best way to preserve your silver is to store it properly. Each piece must be thoroughly dried before storing it anywhere. Wrap each item with acid-free wrapping paper or anti-rust paper. You can also wrap the silver in flannel. Place items in an airtight plastic container. The silica gel packaging put inside can help reduce moisture and prevent tarnishing.

• Never store silver where it can come into contact with rubber, stainless steel, or paints.
• The best way to preserve sterling silver dishes is to use them all the time and wash them gently using mild dish soap and water. When silver is constantly used, the chances of it tarnishing are very small.
• Some silver shops offer special silver dressers lined with felt or anti-corrosion cloth to extend the time between silver cleanings, although you will have to do so anyway. They are also great for storing silver, as it won't bump too much against each other. If your cabinet doesn't have a drawer for serving items, you can simply wrap them with anti-corrosion cloth or tape and put them in a regular drawer.

Method 2 of 2: Alternative Methods to Control Tarnishing

1. 1 Be careful with your toothpaste. Some toothpastes contain baking soda and other abrasive ingredients, even small amounts of which can seriously damage silver. Use polishes specially formulated for tarnishing.
   • Some sources still recommend using toothpaste, especially if you don't have polish. However, this method should not be used for particularly valuable silver items, as they can be damaged. Choose a non-whitening white toothpaste (not a gel). Take a soft, damp cloth (a cloth from an old T-shirt is fine) or a damp sponge and apply some toothpaste. Gently rub the silver in a straight back and forth motion. Alternatively, you can moisten the silver and apply the paste directly to it, moisten it again and start polishing. Do it carefully. If you notice any scratches in the process, stop and rinse off the toothpaste.
   • When the cloth or sponge darkens during the polishing process, apply a little more paste to clean it and continue polishing.
   • Rinse thoroughly with warm water and dry with a soft towel.
   • Some toothpastes contain baking soda or other overly abrasive ingredients. Even a small amount can cause serious damage.
2. 2 Try baking soda. Baking soda can remove stubborn browning, but do not use it if you are concerned about damaging the silver. In addition to patina (plaque), it also removes a layer of silver.
   • Make a paste with baking soda and water.
   • Polish carefully. The same instructions apply to baking soda as to toothpaste.
3. 3 Dip silver in 7-Up (carbonated drink). The acid will eat away at dirt and help give the silver a shine without damage.
4. 4 Use special silver soaking liquids to clean heavily darkened silver. You can find specialty silver cleaning fluids on the market that can remove stains on silver without rubbing it. Such products are used by professionals when conventional detergents and polishes do not help. They contain an ingredient called thiourea that reverses the browning process. These products are effective, but at the same time harmful to silver - use them with caution and in extreme cases. To use a cleaning liquid, pour it into a plastic container. Place the silverware in a container and cover with a lid. Leave it there to soak for the time indicated on the product label.When you remove the item, rinse it thoroughly, as residues of the product can corrode the silver and lead to pitting.
   • Professionals rarely use such means for soaking silver in them, and if they do so, then at least not for long. Typically, cellulose sponges or a cotton ball are moistened in a chemical agent and applied to the product. If silver is immersed in such a liquid for a long time, it can lead to pitting. The resulting "pores" on the surface of the product will absorb gases and liquids like a sponge, which will lead to even faster tarnishing. In this case, it is better to ask a professional to polish the product and restore the original finish. These products are potentially harmful to silver, they also remove factory patina and contain chemicals that are harmful to human health. Use such products with caution, but rather consult a professional.
   • Chemical silver cleaning fluids are composed of acid and complexing agents. Acids are corrosive and corrosive — they damage niello silverware, bronze items, stainless steel knives, and organic materials such as wood and ivory. The ingredients in these liquids can harm you too. This is why professionals work with nitrile gloves in well-ventilated areas. Chemicals must never be used on multi-part products. This applies to candlesticks, award-winning hollow-legged figurines or teapots with hollow handles. As soon as the product spills into a small gap in the product (which was the result of marriage or time), and it cannot be reached. For all these reasons, we recommend not to engage in amateur performances, but to contact a professional restorer.
5. 5 Try the electrochemical method. Make your own cleaning solution by heating an appropriately sized container of water and dissolving a large amount of salt in it. Use enough salt so that it takes at least a minute to dissolve in hot water with constant stirring. Baking soda is also suitable for this method. Cut out a layer of aluminum foil for the water container and dip it into the hot water at the bottom of the container. Place the silver, previously cleaned with soap, in a container (on foil) for a few minutes. The tarnishing should disappear. Rinse the item thoroughly when you take it out.
   • The silver must touch the foil, otherwise the method will not work. Silver and aluminum, when salt water is in between, form a battery. When the silver touches the aluminum foil, the battery closes and a small electrical discharge occurs, triggering a chemical reaction. If you choose between this method and the immersion of silver in a special chemical liquid (the one that causes pitting), then you should choose the first one. Whenever there is an opportunity to use a special polish, then use it.

Tips

• Use a natural horsehair or boar bristle brush for polishing silver with carvings or deep slits. On the other hand, you may wish to leave some patina in order to give the piece a special charm. Do not use a toothbrush for cleaning, as the plastic bristles can scratch the silver.
• Tarnishing is easy to get rid of when it first appears (usually in the form of a yellowish tint), and difficult to get rid of when it takes on a light brown or obvious black tint. When you are just starting to notice the appearance of tarnishing (clearly visible against the background of white glossy paper), use Vindex with vinegar to remove it. Use cotton balls, and change them frequently to clean each new darkened area, as patina itself can be very abrasive. Pat dry with a cotton tea towel.Try this method first as it is less abrasive than others.
• For high-visibility silver items, try using a wax car polish or lemon-free furniture polish to coat the surface and prolong the shine of the silver between routine cleanings!
• Always rinse salt and pepper thoroughly from salt and pepper shakers before storing to prevent corrosion.
• Do not wear silver jewelry when visiting the pool. Chlorine damages silver very quickly.
• Wipe down the silver with a microfiber cloth to avoid scratching and removing light deposits.
• Try using a vacuum sealer to pack and store silver items. Vacuum food containers are fine too.
• Remove accumulated candle wax from the candlesticks by placing them under hot water or melting the wax with a hair dryer.

Warnings

• Silver polishes and fluids may contain harmful chemicals. Follow the instructions and pay attention to the manufacturer's warnings.
• Do not use steel wire scourers, metal shavings, or other abrasive materials that will scratch the silver. Even wrapping paper can scratch new or freshly polished silver if not handled correctly.
• Yes, it is easier to use a cleaning liquid than a polish, but the first one shortens the life of both silver and the patina on it (as mentioned earlier) for years. Be very careful when using these fluids. The subsequent costs can be much higher than if you used the polish at the right time.
• Although silver is a metal, it can be easily abraded by over-polishing. Remove patina as needed.
• Before cleaning silver coins (or any other), carefully study the relevant information, otherwise you can ruin the coin and significantly reduce its value.
• For blackened silver, or for particularly valuable silver items, it is best to use only mild hand rinsing and silver polishes. This is the safest way to professionally clean your valuable items.
• The aluminum foil method seems mild and harmless, but it can cause an orange film to appear on the silver. Use a soft, clean cotton cloth to wipe wet aluminum sulfate from the silver collecting surface.
• Do not use silver to serve dishes that contain eggs or mayonnaise. Such food can tarnish silver. It is best to use glass bowls for these dishes. Alternatively, place glass inserts on silverware before serving.
• Never store unwrapped silver in plastic containers or packaging; the rubber parts of the packaging should also not touch the exposed parts of the silver. They are refined products that degrade over time and can stain silver. In fact, rubber bands can leave black prints almost immediately.