Content

• Steps
• Advice
• What you need
• Warning

In the midst of the sweltering heat of summer, jumping into the cool pool was wonderful. However, a dirty swimming pool can distract you and keep others away. Stains will naturally appear in the pool, so you must clean the pool periodically. Sometimes pool stains are easy to clean, but there are also stubborn stains that require measures other than a simple scrubbing. Stains on pool walls and bottoms can be caused by metals in the water, or by organic matter getting into the pool water. Color is your first clue to determining the cause of your stain.

Steps

Method 1 of 4: Determine the cause of the stain

1. 

   Observe the stain color to determine the cause. Stains can appear in the tank in different colors, and if you know the color of the stain you will find the correct treatment. Depending on the cause of the stain, you will need to use a separate cleaning method for that cause.
   • There are two main groups of stains that are classified based on metal or organic bases, and the color of stains varies widely.
   • Color groups include green-brown, red-blue, blue-green-black, green-brown-red, red-pink, or brown-black-purple. Try to distinguish which color group your stain belongs to.

2. 

   
   
   Look for organic stains on the bottom of the lake. The cause may be leaves, berries, algae, worms, dead animals, or other organic corpses, which will leave stains if they settle on the bottom of the lake. If they are not cleaned up immediately they will sink and begin to decompose on the bottom of the pool. Fortunately, organic stains are easy to clean.
   • Organic stains are usually green, brown or purple-green in color. Organic stains can be easily distinguished if you see organic carcasses like leaves on the bottom of a pool.
   • If you suspect an organic stain, pour a little chlorine over it. Organic stains will dissolve easily when rubbed with a soft bristle brush, while metal stains do not.

3. 

   
   
   Watch out for inorganic or metal stains. These substances can inadvertently enter the pool from well water or the corrosive product of copper pipes. Just a small piece of copper like a coin, when oxidized in the tank can cause large stains. Metals that can enter the lake include metal rust, manganese, iron and copper. If there is a rust-colored stain on the wall of the lake below the staircase, the cause is probably metal and you should consider corrosion on the stairs. Look for stains near stairs, around drains, and below the crater. Very dark red-brown or very dark-brown stains are usually associated with metal in the lake water.
   • The metals that most commonly cause pool stains are iron, manganese and copper. Copper is derived from the ions and corrosion of copper or brass pipes. Copper will cause blue, green, teal, black, or purple stains. Iron originates from well water, corrodes iron pipes and joints, and will cause rust-brown, gray or bluish-brown stains. Manganese originates in well water and causes pink, dark brown or purple stains. Calcium comes from gypsum powder, liquid mortar, masonry or calcium chloride shocking agent, which appears as white crystals.
   • If you see metal-based stains, know exactly what is causing the stain so you can properly treat it.
   • A common cause of a blue-green copper-based stain is due to improper chemical maintenance. Low pH and high chlorine levels can also cause corrosion of copper heat exchangers in pond drying systems. Maintaining the balance in the water will prevent metal stains from forming.

4. 

   
   
   Use a professional cleaning service. If you want to hire a stain cleaner, use the yellow pages to find pool specialists or pool retailers in your area. You will have to bring a pool sample to their facility to test and determine the exact content and type of metals that are harming the tank. Experts may recommend using a special additive designed to remove metal stains.

5. 

   Get the water sample properly for the experiment. Use a clean cup or bottle and turn the top of the bottle upside down to the bottom of the tank. Push the bottle completely into the water and turn the bottle upside down to collect a water sample. Do not take a water sample near a nozzle or a surface water intake. Ideally you should sample in the middle of the pool. If you can't do this, try to get as close to the middle of the tank as possible for the most accurate test results.

6. 

   In your routine water test you should perform an OVERALL metal test. The FREED METAL test only measures the content of non-glued metals, but the overall metal test measures all metals in the water sample.

7. 

   Use the test paper to test the water at home. Take a sample of water in the middle of the pool depth. After the water sample is available, quickly take a test paper and dip it into the sample. Do not expel excess water from the paper, and keep in air for about 15 seconds.The paper will then change color and you must compare the color of the piece of paper with the color chart behind the bottle to get the measurement. There are many different test papers available for many purposes, but you only need to test for pH, alkalinity and free chlorine.
   • Use the test paper at least once a week. Once a month, bring your water sample to your local pool store for more professional testing, especially with pool opening and covering.

8. 

   Use liquid test kit. There are very advanced test kits available, but for home pools you only need to test for pH and chlorine, that is to use phenol red and OTO chlorine testers. The liquid test kit gives very accurate results but you must know how to read the colors. For example, after you add chemicals to a water sample, the chemical changes color and depending on how light or dark the color is, you must compare it exactly according to the instructions on the package for a method to treat the edema. well suited. Remember, it is not easy to tell the difference between colors and colors.
   • OTO chlorine is a chemical that tests total chlorine in water. It is a yellow liquid that drips into the water sample. The darker the yellow color, the more chlorine the pool water will have.
   • Phenol red is the red chemical used to test the pH balance. The redder the water, the higher the pH.
   • With the liquid tester it is difficult to see the colors at the lower end of the color range. Remember to use a white background to check colors more accurately.

9. 

   Determine if the water source is the cause of the problem. If you pumped well water into your tank, test the water before pumping. If you find that there are high levels of metal in the water, drain the lake water about 1/4 or 1/2 of the tank, then add soft water. Next, you will recirculate for at least 48 hours and test again. If the metal content is still high then repeat this process.
   • If the water is pumped into the tank normally, it is more likely that metal will enter the lake through corrosion. Check for corrosion traces of all equipment in your tank to make sure they don't leak metal into the water.
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Method 2 of 4: Treat organic stains

1. 

   Remove organic matter from the water surface. Often, the bluish-brown stain is related to organic matter such as algae or leaves that settle on the bottom of the lake. These materials need to be removed during handling. Organic stains are usually easy to clean but over time, the pool begins to dull and turn a light brown that you cannot clean. This discoloration takes place very slowly so it can be difficult to notice at first.
   • If you plant your plant by the side of the tank, watch out for leaves, twigs, or fruit that may fall into the water. You can use the racket to periodically scavenge the rubbish from the lake.
   • Organic waste that sinks to the bottom of the lake should be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. You can use either a hand held vacuum or an automatic pool pump that uses a sensor.

2. 

   Wash swimming pools with acid. If permanent stains appear, you can rinse the pool water and acid wash, as long as the pool has a mortar lining. This is not a method you can do often because it will take away a thin layer of mortar from the tank. To restore a bright white surface, you need to wash the pool with acid every five years.

3. 

   Use the enzyme shock method and bristle brush to remove stains. This will quickly remove green-brown stains of organic origin. You can also use an enzyme tank shock chemical. All natural pool enzymes eat organic matter to remove stains without scrubbing or scrubbing only, and without the use of harsh chemicals that can damage the tank lining. If the stain is mainly concentrated around the water level of the lake because the matter is floating on the water surface, the enzyme sanitizer will break down the organic and grease complex by accelerating chemical reactions to cause the stain. disappears on its own. Then you will scrub thoroughly to make sure all organic residue and grease are removed.

4. 

   Shock the tank with chlorine. Organic stains are best treated with intense chlorination, followed by scrubbing with a little TLC. You can use a long bristle brush to clean around the tank. Try pouring some chlorine right away on the organic stain to make it go away instantly. Remember, chlorine is great for mortar pools, but don't do this on vinyl pools as the lining can come off.
   • Test the water to make sure the pH and alkalinity are at the right level. The pH should be between 7.4 and 7.6, while the alkalinity should be between 100-150 ppm (parts per million).

5. 

   Remove local stains by scrubbing with muriatic acid. Carefully pour acid into a section of PVC pipe and acid it onto the stain on the pool wall. Be careful if the pool is only slightly soiled, you can create a prominent white spot on the darker background.
   • After using a sanitizer, you have to shock the tank so that the water has enough chlorine before it turns green due to the algal blooms.

6. 

   Rub your hands vigorously instead of using harsh chemicals. Rub with liquid mortar to seal small cracks. There are two types of brushes on the market, one for concrete pools and the other for vinyl records, so you have to know which one you need to buy. After purchasing the brush, attach it to the pole to remove the hard-to-reach stains. advertisement

Method 3 of 4: Treat metal stains

1. 

   Follow the steps correctly to remove metal stains in swimming pool. The first method is to buy a metal cleaning product and place it in a surface water filter for one month. This is the first step in most stain removal procedures to make the subsequent tank cleaning more gentle. This product comes in a variety of sizes and strengths, so if possible, consult a swimming pool expert to advise the most suitable one for your situation.

2. 

   Turn off all machinery and equipment located near swimming pools. That means you will turn off the chlorination machine, the metal ionizer, the generator, the UV system, and the ozone generator. During stain handling and the use of harsh chemicals, it is best to avoid splashing the pool water on swimming pool heaters, chlorination machines, and unrelated systems located near the lake.

3. 

   Reduce the chlorine content in the lake to about 0-2 parts per million. The lower the chlorine level, the less ascorbic acid you will need to clean the tank. You can wait for the chlorine level to drop by itself over time or after the rain, but if you don't have much time, you can add sodium thiosulfate to the water according to the manufacturer's instructions.
   • Add the algae killer to the water. Be sure to follow the instructions on the product packaging for the dosage and administration of your pool size. This will prevent algae from growing while the chlorine level is low.

4. 

   Remove metal stains with ascorbic acid. Minerals react well with chemicals, and if you believe the stain is of metal origin or if the organic stain cleaning instructions above don't work, try an ascorbic acid cleaning product. An easy and effective method is to crush a vitamin C pill and rub it on the stain. After a few minutes, you should see the stain begin to fade. Remember, ascorbic acid works best for iron stains, while citric acid is best for copper stains.
   • Treat large stains by spreading ascorbic acid evenly over the pool surface. Start with about 250g of ascorbic acid per 40 cubic meters of water.
   • Set the filter system to "cyclic" and turn on the machine. Allow the ascorbic acid to circulate in the tank for about half an hour.
   • Check the tank to see if the stain is gone. If stain remains, add ascorbic acid and allow the filter to circulate the water for another half an hour. Repeat this process until the pool is clean.

5. 

   Get back to chemical balance in the pool. You have to adjust the pH, alkalinity and hardness of the water to the right range, these parameters will be determined by the size of the tank. You should turn on automatic chlorination machines, chlorination machines, UV systems and ozone generators. Place a metal filter bag in the surface water filter or larger metal filter bag in the pump basket, to keep the metal content in the water low and to keep the pool water clean year round. advertisement

Method 4 of 4: Prevent stains from appearing

1. 

   Create a pool maintenance routine. Precaution makes the curing process much easier than cleaning the stain. Hire an expert or use a home test each week to test your pool water for the ideal chemical balance.If you are using a water source other than "tap water", check your water inlet as well as iron rich well water can leave stains.
   • Gently shock the lake water weekly to prevent algal blooms.
   • Prevent by scrubbing the pool bottom several times per week.

2. 

   Prevent metal stains from coming back. You must periodically check the metal in the water because the stain will return if the lake water has a high metal content. Remember, metal exists in nature and can enter the lake through the water supply, or through corrosion of equipment or pipes in the lake. It is important to monitor the metal content weekly.
   • Use an adhesive, or chelator in English. They precipitate minerals in solution to prevent them from floating freely and creating stains. Do not use products with phosphonic acid as it will break down into phosphates and cause algae to burst.
   • Disposable absorbent bags also help remove metals. You just need to insert it into the surface water filter (or pump basket) and it will adsorb metals such as copper, iron, manganese, cobalt, silver and nickel.

3. 

   Do not allow organic waste to enter the lake to prevent organic stains from appearing. Use a racket to pick up or use an automatic vacuum to remove fallen leaves, berries and branches from the pool. You should also buy tarpaulins during the winter when you are not using the pool.
   • Dark stains can be caused by mud flowing into the lake. If you are unable to prevent these materials from entering the tank, re-line the tank with mortar or a dark liner to hide this type of stain.
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Advice

• Check pH and alkalinity weekly, check TDS level of lake water monthly or quarterly.
• Pool water chemicals, solutions, and water test kits are available at most pool equipment stores.
• If you end up using a commercial stain remover, lower the chlorine level below 1PPM so that the chlorine doesn't react to the product.
• With a pool made of cement, you need to pay special attention to the pH, alkalinity and TDS level to avoid damaging the lining.
• After treating metal stains with ascorbic acid, you must also use metal colloid to coagulate the metals in the water.
• You must also place the metal removal product in a surface water filter or a pump basket to absorb the metal from the water.
• Ascorbic acid can remove stains. Try putting a vitamin C capsule in a sock, crushing it well and placing it directly on the stain. You will need to take a few vitamin C pills, but this method is very effective.

What you need

• Sodium thiosulfate
• Algae killer
• Vitamin C tablets
• Ascorbic acid
• Enzyme products prevent rust
• Metal remover

Warning

• If you use a pool heater and see copper stains appear, or water test results in high copper content, check the pH and alkalinity immediately and raise these parameters to a suitable level. . The pipes inside the fuel supply unit, or "heat exchanger", are made of copper. If the pH and alkalinity are not maintained at the right level, the heat exchanger will rapidly corrode and release copper into the water, causing stains and damage to the dryer. If the pH drops below 7.0, the water becomes acidic and begins to dissolve all metals and surfaces. Check pH several times per week to prevent problems caused by low pH.