Author:
John Stephens
Date Of Creation:
23 January 2021
Update Date:
1 July 2024
Content
The moth is a moth that eats a variety of trees and shrubs during its larval stage. Their favorites are deciduous trees, conifers, fruit trees and perennials; however, they only kill conifers that do not change leaves. The main solution to destroying worms is to use hands and insecticides during their characteristic stages of development.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Deep Tracking of Tunic
Begin to dig deep into the tunic in winter or early spring. Deep egg cocoons are usually brown and 0.5 to 2 inches (3.8 to 5 cm) long. They are covered with many dry needles, so you will easily recognize them thanks to the color contrasting with the falling green conifers at this time.
- Deep cocoons can be difficult to detect because they look like pine cones. Take a look at the pine cones to find some differences.
Regularly sweep and scratch the area below the plant to get rid of spillage cocoons. Do not pile up trash as the larvae can live there. Place garbage in sealed plastic bags in the trash.
Pay attention to areas with dry branches or pine needles. If the tree has started to turn brown, it is likely that the cloth worms have harmed the tree. You will need to take radical steps to keep the worms from damaging the entire garden and from spreading to other plants.
Keep track of new places where the tunic worms can hide. Wind can spread the silk threads around. Wherever wind in your yard can be a new refuge of the depths and is worth your attention. advertisement
Part 2 of 3: Destroying worm eggs
Pour the mixture of warm water and dish soap into a plastic bucket. Mix this solution together.
Wear gardening gloves and carry a small shear to aid in the complete removal of the garment. Shears will clear any traces of silk from the worms, making it difficult for new worms to find a way into the tree.
Pick up the twigs, cut the worm eggs, and drop them into the soap bucket. Make sure all are submerged in the water.
Pour the body of the cocoon soaked in soapy water into a sealed plastic bag and throw it in the trash.
Repeat this process every fall, winter and early spring to minimize the number of worms before hatching. You will reduce the amount of insecticide you need if you pick up the cocoons deeply. advertisement
Part 3 of 3: Destroying the already hatched cloth worm
Plan to treat cloth worms with insecticides in May. This is when the eggs hatch and they are most vulnerable. In some places, the eggs will hatch in early June.
Look for a small, worm-like head protruding from the top of the cocoon. However, they often retreat into their cocoons if startled.
Buy a brand-name insecticide called Dipel or Thuricide. They contain bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium that can kill young worms. If you have a lot of plants that are being threatened by the bat worms, it can be expensive to completely destroy the bat worms with insecticides.
- Orthene, Talstar, and Tempo are the names for other insecticides that are effective against newly-hatched bat worms.
Put the insecticide in the spray bottle. Wet all the leaves and conifers at risk of infestation. Be careful when spraying pesticides around areas with pets and children.
- Consider quarantining the area immediately after spraying.
Spraying pesticides in late May, June and early July. At this point, you can destroy the newly hatched larvae. Immediately stop spraying at the end of July and early August when the cloth worms are recovering and the insecticide becomes ineffective.
- By around September and early October, the adult tunic worms will begin to fertilize the eggs. Right now, you should proceed to pick up the cocoon with your hand.
- The adult male worm usually has black wings and many brown spots. They will die after fertilization. The larvae female worms will remain in the cocoons.
What you need
- Plastic buckets
- Country
- Oil dishwashers
- Garden gloves
- Cropping scissors
- Pesticides
- Plastic bag
- Rake
