Content

• Steps
• Advice
• Warning

Are you planning to adopt a dog? You want your dog at home to behave a little better? Do you want to train your dog to do what you want instead of giving it to him? Attending an expert-led dog training class is the best approach, but not everyone has the opportunity to go to class. The following tips are a great start to training your dog. There are many theories and approaches to dog training, so do your research and choose the one that works best for you and your dog.

Steps

Method 1 of 13: Prepare to Train a Dog

1. 

   Choose a breed that fits your lifestyle. After centuries of breeding, dogs are today one of the most diverse animals in the world. There will certainly be every dog ​​for each lifestyle, but not all dogs will meet your specific needs. For example, if you're a relaxed person, don't go with the Jack Russell Terrier, which is known for its constant barking and a lot of energy. Instead, you'll probably want a bulldog that usually just likes to curl up on the couch all day. Study the breeds' personality and care requirements. Ask dog owners about the breeds of their dogs.
   • Since most dog breeds have a lifespan of 10-15 years, adopting a dog is a long-term commitment. Make sure the breed's personality matches your lifestyle.
   • If you are not married, consider whether you will have children in the next decade.Some dog breeds are not recommended for families with children.

2. 

   
   
   Don't just rely on your desires but adopt a dog. You have to be honest with yourself about how well your breed will be and your lifestyle. Don't adopt a dog that needs a lot of exercise just because you want to be motivated to start a healthier lifestyle. If you are unable to keep up with your active dog's sporting needs, both you and your dog will fall into a slack.
   • Take note of the breed's needs and temperament, and how you can accommodate them.
   • If adopting a breed requires tremendous effort to change your lifestyle, you will need to choose to adopt another.

3. 

   
   
   Give your dog an easy name. Your dog needs to learn his name easily, so that you can keep your dog focused during training. Therefore, you should not give a name with more than two syllables. The name should also sound clear for the dog to recognize. Names like "Buddy" or "Rover" or "Bee Bee" have a more prominent tone than the usual human speech a dog can hear.
   • Regularly call out your dog's name when playing, petting, training, or attracting the dog's attention.
   • If your dog looks at you every time you call your name, it already learns it.
   • Create a positive attachment to your dog's name so that the dog will continue to pay attention to you every time you call it. Praise your dog if he responds to the call, and give him a treat.

4. 

   
   
   Schedule a workout. Set aside 15-20 minutes for each serious workout and several times a day. Puppies tend to focus only for a short time and get bored quickly, just like babies.
   • However, you will be training your dog even outside of training hours. Practical training goes through the day every time you interact with a pet. Your dog will learn from you with each interaction.
   • A dog's bad habit develops when an owner lets the dog behave badly outside of training hours. So, watch your dog even outside of training hours. If your dog remembers what he learned during practice, make sure it does the same outside of hours.

5. 

   Prepare mentally for training sessions. When working with a dog, be calm and neutral. Any anxiety or agitation you have will negatively affect the training results. Remember that the purpose of training is to reinforce your dog's good behavior and punish bad behavior. It may sound stern, but having a well-trained dog requires high determination and strict discipline.

6. 

   Choose the right tool. A 180 cm long chainring with a buckle or two straps is enough to start with, next to the treat. Seek expert advice about tools such as muzzle, saddle belt, metal training necklace, or others. Puppies or small dogs usually do not need heavy tools. Temporary large dogs may need special equipment (such as a muzzle) to help concentrate. advertisement

Method 2 of 13: Applying the General Principles of Training

1. 

   Regulate your expectations and moods. Not every training day is perfect, but don't get discouraged or blamed on your dog. Change your behavior and attitudes to encourage your dog's ability and confidence to learn. If your mood is calm, your dog will usually be too.
   • If the dog is scared of your bad mood, it won't learn anything new. They can only learn to be cautious and distrustful of you.
   • Dog classes and a good dog trainer will help you improve your behavior and be successful when you teach your dog.

2. 

   Always be mindful of your dog's temperament. Each dog has a different temperament. Just like children, each breed will absorb differently at a different rate. Some will be quite stubborn and will challenge you with each exercise. Some others are trying very hard to please you. You may need to adjust your training method to match your dog's temperament.

3. 

   Reward your dog immediately. Dogs do not understand what is the cause and the long-term effect. They learn very quickly. You should reward and reward the dog within 2 seconds of the dog's desired behavior to reinforce the behavior. If you wait too long, the dog will not associate the treat with what you asked him to do.
   • Also, make sure your compliments are fast and accurate enough. If not, you may mistakenly reward your unwanted behavior.
   • Imagine, for example, that you are teaching your dog the command to "sit". The dog sits for a while, but when you give it a treat, it will immediately wake up. In this situation, you are rewarding standing, not sitting.

4. 

   Consider exercising with a clicker. Clicker training is an instant gratification method using the clicker. You will press the clicker faster than feeding or patting the dog's head. Therefore, clicker training will help you emphasize good behavior fast enough and keep up with your dog's learning speed. This method works by making a connection between the click and the reward. At some point, the dog will consider the click itself a reward for good behavior. You can apply the clicker method to any dog ​​command.
   • Click on the clicker, then immediately reward the dog food. This manipulation builds a positive relationship with the click. The sound will then "mark" the correct behavior so that the dog knows he did it correctly.
   • When the dog did the right thing, click the clicker, then reward. Once the dog consistently gets it right, you can give the command a name. Start associating commands and behaviors together with the help of the clicker.
   • For example, before you teach your dog to "sit," click the clicker, reward, and reward when you see the dog sitting. When the dog begins to sit for a reward, start saying “sit” to command the dog to take position. Combine with the click to reward your dog. Eventually, the dog will learn that sitting in response to a "sit" command is a way for the dog to receive a click.

5. 

   Consistency. Your dog will not understand what you want him to do if his environment is inconsistent. Anyone who lives with your dog should understand and strive to follow your dog's training goals. For example, if you are teaching your dog not to jump on other people, don't allow young children in the house to let the dog jump on top of them. That action will ruin your total training.
   • Make sure everyone uses exactly the commands dogs learn when trained. Dogs do not speak Vietnamese, and cannot distinguish between "sit" and "sit down". Using multiple commands interchangeably will only confuse the dog.
   • Since a dog cannot make a clear connection between a command and an action, the dog's response can be either correct or completely false.

6. 

   Always reward your dog's success or good behavior with praise, and occasionally reward with food. A small item will encourage your dog to practice well. This reward should be small, delicious, and easy to chew. You don't want the treat to interrupt your training session or make your dog feel full too quickly.
   • Consider how long it takes your dog to chew on a hard food versus a wetter one like "Bill Jack" or "Zuke's Mini Naturals". A reward as big as a pencil eraser is enough for your dog to understand the positives, but don't wait too long for him to eat.

7. 

   Use "genuine" rewards when needed. When practicing difficult or important commands, use a “good” bonus to boost your dog's spirits. Examples include dried liver, grilled chicken breast chips, or some turkey for lunch.
   • If your dog has learned the command, cut back on high value treats and bring them back as needed for practice. But remember to always compliment your dog.

8. 

   Let your dog practice when hungry. Do not feed your dog a few hours before training. The more the dog wants the reward, the more it will perform the requested task in order to eat.

9. 

   Always end up practicing in fun. Even if the training session doesn't go well and the dog isn't receptive to a new command, end with something you can compliment the dog with.By ending the session with a command the dog already understands, the last thing your dog will remember will be your love and praise.

10. 

    Limit barking sounds. If the dog barks in your direction when you don't want it, let it go until it stops barking, and compliment it. Sometimes they will bark to ask for your attention, but sometimes they are inhibited.
    • Don't throw balls or toys. Doing so will only make the dog think that if it barks, it will make you do what it wants.
    • Don't yell at the dog to keep it quiet, as it will feel your attention and bark more.
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Method 3 of 13: Teach the command "Follow"

1. 

   Regularly walk your dog on leash. This is not only important for exercise, but also for the dog's health and well-being. Depending on the breed, your dog may need a lot of exercise to be happy and in shape.

2. 

   Avoid pulling on the leash. Most dogs will pull on a leash when they practice walking. When the dog starts to pull, stop immediately. Don't move on until the dog comes to you and focuses on you.

3. 

   Change direction. A most effective method is to go in the opposite direction and encourage your dog to accompany you. Once your dog has caught up, reward and reward him.

4. 

   Make your dog happy when he's with you. A dog's natural instinct is to explore and examine its surroundings by itself. You need to make walking with you more enjoyable. Use an excited tone of voice when changing directions, and praise your dog when it comes to you.

5. 

   Associate behavior with verbal commands. Once the dog is used to walking beside you, you can give the action a name, such as "follow" or "go." advertisement

Method 4 of 13: Teach the command "Come here"

1. 

   Understand the value of the command. The "come here" command is used when you want the dog to come to you. This command has the potential to save lives, as it can prevent a dog from escaping when released.

2. 

   Prepare the dog to practice "come here.Always start indoors (or fenced gardens) with low distraction. Connect a 183 cm leash to your dog's collar so that you can keep your dog focused and prevent him from running away.

3. 

   Get your dog's attention. You want to call your dog back. You can call your dog on a high pitched sound with a toy, a clap, or simply open your arms. It is also a good idea to run a short distance away from the dog and suddenly stop, as the dog has instinctive chasing.
   • Use compliments and a "cheerful tone" to encourage your dog to come to you.

4. 

   Praise immediately. Click the clicker, praise your dog with a "happy voice," and give him a treat when he comes to you.

5. 

   Combine behavior with statements. Once your dog realizes that he will be rewarded for coming to you, start saying "come here". When the dog responds to a command, reinforce it by the praise that comes with the word "good": "to be good!"

6. 

   Move practice to public spaces. Since the command "come here" can save a dog's life, the dog needs to learn to respond to it even if distracted. Move homework from your home to the garden or park. Surrounding the dog will be many sights, sounds, and scents.

7. 

   Increase chain length. You started off with a leash 180 cm long, but now you need to extend the distance even more.

8. 

   Train dogs not to carry leashes in fenced spaces. This will help the dog to run from longer distances.
   • Ask someone to help you with an exercise without leashes. You can play "ping pong" and take turns calling the dog to each person.

9. 

   Enjoy a lot. Since this command is so important, the praise you give should be grand. Obeying the order "come here" will be the best moments of the day for your dog.

10. 

    Don't do any negativity with this order. No matter how upset you are, the order of "come here" should never be reinforced with rage. Even if you are crazy about your dog being leashed and running around for five minutes, you should praise your dog when he finally responds to your call to "come here". Remember that you are complimenting your dog's last behavior, and that last act is coming to you.
    • Don't correct, yell, nag, or do anything that makes your dog think it's a bad thing to be with you. You can ruin years of training with just one bad experience.
    • Never do something the dog doesn't like after saying "come here." You can try this when you need to give the dog a bath, a pedicure, or an ear hygiene, but the command "come here" should be fun.
    • If you have to do something the dog doesn't like, go ahead and catch the dog instead of giving a command. Praise the dog throughout the process for being calm and accepting it. Of course you can have food too.

11. 

    Back to the basics. If you are afraid of places where your dog might get lost and ignore your "come here" command, go back to the leash exercise. Continue practicing in leash until you can believe that the dog will respond to the "come here" command.
    • Don't be tempted to practice this command. It is very important and should not be done halfway.

12. 

    Consolidate exercises throughout the dog's life. Since this behavior is so important, you need to reinforce it for life. If you are climbing a mountain with your dog without a leash, carry some food in your bag to reinforce your command.
    • You should also add a command to let the dog know that it doesn't need to be with you all the time. Certain commands such as "rest" are one way, but the goal is for the dog to do what they want and not be forced to obey it until you give it.

13. 

    Keep fun for long. You don't want your dog to think that every time they come to you, they can no longer play, someone has a leash on it, and they have to go home. If not, you will start getting times "to" that are increasingly uncertain and less fun than before. So, call your dog back, praise him when it comes, and give them "rest" to play again.

14. 

    Introduce the dog to the necklace. This does not need to include any statements. When your dog comes to you, hold the collar to prevent it from being shy when it is touched.
    • When you bend down to reward you for “coming,” accompany the act of grabbing the collar while petting the dog's neck for food.
    • Occasionally, but not often, attach a leash as you pull on your necklace.
    • At the same time, you can also hook up a short leash and let the dog "rest" again. The leash should be the signal that the dog is about to have fun and that we will be walking. There is no room for a strict correction.
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Method 5 of 13: Teach the command "Listen"

1. 

   Understand the purpose of the "listen.Sometimes called the "pay attention" command, the "listen" command is one of the first commands you should teach your dog. You will use it to get your dog's attention and then give new commands or other directions. Some people just use the dog's name instead of the "listen." This is especially useful if you have a lot of dogs. This way, each dog will know when you want them to focus on you.

2. 

   Prepare many rewards. They can be food you buy from the store, or chopped sausages. Choose something that you know your dog likes to eat and will act in order to get it.

3. 

   Stand near the dog. But don't get your dog's attention. If the dog responds to your presence, stand still and look the other way until the dog does not care.

4. 

   Command "Listen" in a low, but decisive voice. If you want to use a dog's name instead of saying "listen" or "pay attention", call the name instead. The tone and volume should be the same as when you call out someone's name to get their attention.

5. 

   Don't raise your voice just to get your dog's attention. Save the noise for "life-saving" situations like when the dog jumps over a fence or breaks the chain. If you rarely raise your voice, you are sure to get the dog's maximum attention when you need to scream. But if you always "loudly" with your dog, they will gradually ignore the sound and ignore you. Being resourceful no longer works to call for special attention.
   • Dogs have superior hearing - far more than humans. One cool thing about this script is to see how far your dog can react to a whisper. People will make you sound like a "whisper to a dog" when you can give a command to your dog with just a little hum.

6. 

   Reward your dog as soon as he reacts. When the dog stops what he is doing and looks up at you, immediately reward and reward him. Click the clicker before rewarding or rewarding if you are forging dogs with the clicker.
   • Remember that you have to be responsive right away. The faster the reward, the faster the dog understands the relationship between commands, behavior, and rewards.

7. 

   Finally stop using the rewards. Once your dog has mastered the command, you should no longer reward the dog food. However, you should still use the clicker or compliment with words.
   • Rewarding your dog is very important as it is likely that the dog will demand a treat all the time. In the end you will get a dog that only obeys when it comes to food.
   • Praise your dog often after he has mastered a command, but will reward it every now and then. That is how the dog can carve a lesson into its memory.
   • Once the dog has mastered the commands, you can use the reward to speed up the request or make it more precise. Your dog will soon find out that the reward is associated with the command or behavior after the "listen" command.
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Method 6 of 13: Teach the command "Sit"

1. 

   Let the dog stand. The purpose of the "sit" command is for the dog to change from a standing to a sitting position, not to continue sitting. Walk back to your dog or step away to get him up.

2. 

   Stand in the dog's line of sight. Stand right in front of your dog, so he can focus on you. Let your dog see that you have food in your dominant hand.

3. 

   Let your dog focus on the reward. Start by hanging your reward on your side. Raise that hand in front of the dog's nose to let the dog smell the smell, then raise the head above the dog's head.
   • When you lift the food above the dog's head, most dogs will automatically sit down to see better.

4. 

   Immediately reward dog food and praise them. Follow the clicker-reward / reward cycle or just reward and reward. Say "sit well" when the dog has done what you want. Maybe the dog will be a bit slow at first, but just add rewards and compliments that the dog will speed up.
   • Make sure you don't compliment the dog until the dog is actually sitting. If you praise your dog before he can sit, he will think that's what you want.
   • Also, be sure not to compliment your dog for standing, if so you'll only experience the behavior instead of sitting.

5. 

   If the dog refuses to sit with the treat, you can use a leash and necklace. Stand next to the dog, looking in the same direction as the dog. Pull the collar back slightly to encourage sitting.
   • You may need to encourage your dog to sit by gently nudging the dog's hind legs. Gently pull the dog back with the collar when doing so.
   • Once the dog is seated, give praise and reward immediately.

6. 

   Don't repeat orders. You want your dog to react the first time, not the second, third, or fourth time. If the dog does not follow the command within 2 seconds of it, emphasize it by using a leash.
   • When you start coaching, never give a command you cannot reinforce. If not, the risk is that you will train your dog to ignore you because you will not follow the command and the commands will be meaningless.
   • Create a positive atmosphere for your dog with praise and resilience.

7. 

   Praise your instinctive sitting. Notice the times the dog sits on its own during the day. Praise the action, and soon you'll have a dog sitting on its own to get attention instead of jumping up or barking at you. advertisement

Method 7 of 13: Teaching the Dog to Lie Down

1. 

   Get your dog's attention. Grab some food or toys and find your dog. Hold a toy or food in front of your dog's eye contact so that he can focus on you.

2. 

   Use food or toys to encourage your dog to lie down. Do this by waving the toy or food on the floor in front and between the dog's legs. The dog's head will follow the item, and the whole body will follow.

3. 

   Compliments immediately. Once your dog is on the ground, praise him and reward him with a treat or toy. You must also accurately compliment. If you compliment the dog when it is about to lie down or is getting up, that will be the action you will take.

4. 

   Increase distance. Once the dog has learned the behavior with the reward, step back a little. The handprint for "lying down" will be the hand stretched - face down - down from the front of your waist to your side.
   • As long as the dog gets used to the behavior of "lying down," add a verbal "down" or "lie down" command.
   • Praise immediately when the dog's belly lands.
   • Dogs understand body language well and learn hand signs very quickly.

5. 

   Prolong "lying down."Once the dog is familiar with it, wait a few seconds before rewarding and rewarding to encourage the dog to hold on for longer.
   • If the dog is up to get food, do not feed it, otherwise you will mistakenly reward the last act before the treat.
   • Start over, and your dog will understand that you want the dog to lie on the floor completely, as long as you persevere.

6. 

   Don't lean over the dog. Once the dog has received the command, stand upright when you give the order. If you bend over, the dog will only lie down when you are leaning towards them. You will want to do it until you can order your dog to lie down from a distance. advertisement

Method 8 of 13: Train the Dog to "Wait" at the Door

1. 

   Start training your dog to "wait" early. It is very important to teach your dog to respect the threshold. You don't want your dog to go on rushing out every time the door is open - that can be very dangerous for the dog. You don't have to practice at the door every time you go in and out. However, you should make the most of your puppy's training opportunities early.

2. 

   Put a leash on your dog. You should put your dog on a short leash so that he can adjust its direction from a short distance.

3. 

   Go to the front door. Take the dog on a leash.

4. 

   Order "wait" before entering the door. If your dog follows you while you are crossing, use leashes to keep him from going. Retry.

5. 

   Praise when the dog waits. When the dog understands that you want the dog to stay inside the door instead of going out with you, praise him and reward him for "waiting well."

6. 

   Teach your dog to sit in the doorway. If the door is closed, teach your dog to sit as soon as you put your hand on the doorknob. The dog will wait while the door is open, and will not walk over until you allow it. This exercise should initially be done with leashes, to ensure the safety of the dog.

7. 

   Give a new command to call your dog over. You can use "come here" or "rest." No matter what command you use, it should be the only one that will allow the dog to leave the house.

8. 

   Increase distance. Practice leaving your dog in the doorway and doing something outside. You can pick up the mail or take out the trash before you go back and praise your dog. The purpose of this action is so that you don't need to call the dog through the door to see you. You can also go to the dog right away. advertisement

Method 9 of 13: Teaching Your Dog Positive Eating Habits

1. 

   Let your dog wait patiently while you prepare the meal. There is nothing more troublesome than a dog that keeps jumping and barking while you are feeding it. Instead, give the command "wait" that the dog learned in the doorway exercise so that the dog will wait in the dining room doorway.
   • When you are ready, call your dog and tell him to "sit down" and "wait" while you put the food on the floor of the room.
   • Stand and wait a few seconds before saying okay. You can say "rest" or create a new mealtime command like "come eat" or "have a few". Try to choose something that doesn't make the dog misunderstand that you are talking to him, such as "it's time to eat" or "let's eat" because these can easily make the dog think that it's time to eat. it.
   • Finally, the dog will know how to wait as soon as he sees the bowl.

2. 

   Use your hand to feed your dog. When it is time to eat, you should feed it with your hand. Then, use your hand to pick up the rest of the food in the bowl. This will make the dog's food bowl smell like your body, helping to prevent or eliminate the precaution of eating in your dog.

3. 

   Teach your dog to obey "get away.“Teaching your dog to obey commands to stay away from food and other objects is essential in some situations, like when a person's food accidentally falls on the floor or when the dog wants to pick up dirty things on the walkway. To teach this command, do the following:
   • Step one: hold the dog's favorite food in hand. The dog will lick, smell and lift its paws with the food from your hand. Finally, when the dog refuses to stay away, praise him and give him food in hand.
   • Step two: say "get away".Say this when the dog decides to move away.
   • Step three: Hold a piece of food in the palm of your hand in front of the dog and hold another piece behind your back. Instruct your dog to "get out". If the dog gets too close to the food, hold your hand to hide it and say "no" to let it know it won't be rewarded. When the dog obeys the "get out" command, give him a piece of food behind his back.
   • Step four: put the food on the floor. Place the piece of food from your palm on the floor. Continue to reward your dog with the food you hide behind him.
   • Step Five: Leash the string to the dog's neck and lead him across the food on the floor. Command your dog to "stay away" without tugging. If it eats the food, go back to the previous step.
   • Step six: start using the command "get out" when taking it out on the street.
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Method 10 of 13: Teaching "Take" and "Release" Command

1. 

   Understand the command. The "take" command is used when you want the dog to grab something you give.

2. 

   Give your dog a toy. Order "take" by mouth while doing so. When your dog takes a muzzle toy, praise him immediately. (In addition, dogs are rewarded with toys!)

3. 

   Gradually move to items of less value to dogs. Dogs learn "grab" very easily with interesting items! Once your dog understands the link between commands and behavior, move on to something less interesting. Examples could be newspapers, light bags, or anything else you want your dog to carry.

4. 

   At the same time practice "get" with "release". Once your dog has picked up the toy, order "let go" so that the dog can return the toy to you. Reward the dog with the food and praise him when he returns it, then start over with the command "get". You don't want your dog to think that once he drops it, he can't play.
   • Don't turn the exercise into a tug of war with your dog. As you pull, the dog will yank even harder.
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Method 11 of 13: Teach the command "Stand"

1. 

   Understand the value of the "stand" command. The value of the "sit" and "wait" commands is pretty obvious, but you may not understand why "standing" is such an important skill to teach your dog. You won't use the "stand" command every day, but you will need it for the rest of the dog's life. For example, a dog that "stands" calmly would be the ideal patient at the vet or a great customer at a grooming salon.

2. 

   Preparation exercises. Grab a favorite dog toy or a handful of food to attract your dog's attention and reward your dog for following a command. Let your dog "down" or "lie down" when practicing the "stand." Your dog should move from lying to standing to get a toy or food.

3. 

   Attract focused dogs. You need to calm your dog up by allowing him to reach out to a toy or food. Hold a toy or food in front of your dog, at nose level.
   • If the dog sits, thinking that is enough to be rewarded, try it again, but keep the food or toy slightly lower.

4. 

   Encourage your dog to follow your hand. Hand out and palm down. If you are using food, hold the food in the palm of your hand with your thumb. Begin by placing your hand in front of the dog's nose and moving a few inches away. The idea is that the dog will lift itself up and face it in your hand.
   • You may need to push the dog's hips with your other hand to get the dog to understand.

5. 

   Praise your dog immediately. As soon as the dog is standing, praise the dog and reward it. Even if you haven't started using the command "stand" here, you can still remind in the compliment: "Good stand!"

6. 

   Add the command to "stand" by mouth. Initially, you will only train your dog to stand up by following the hand with food or toys. Once your dog understands what he needs to do, start incorporating the command "stand" into the exercise.

7. 

   Combine "stand" commands with other commands. There are many ways to combine commands. After you have your dog "stand," you can add a "wait" or "stand still" command if you want the dog to stand longer. Or you can also add the command "sit" or "lie" so that the dog "reviews," and gradually increases the distance between you and the dog. Finally, you will be able to command your dog to do it even from a long distance. advertisement

Method 12 of 13: Teach the command "Speak"

1. 

   Understand the command. The “talk” command teaches the dog to bark in response to your request. If you consider it alone, this order sounds rather strange. But when combined with the "silent" command, it can help manage the barking problem of a heavy barking dog.
   • Be careful when teaching this command. Inexperienced dog instructors often find that the practice of "talking" falls out of their control. In the end they get only one dog barking at all times.

2. 

   Teaching dogs with clicker. The "talk" order requires immediate praise, even more so than any other command. Teaching your dog to understand click means a clicker reward and reward several times in a row.
   • Keep practicing with the clicker until the dog thinks just the click is a bonus. The real reward will be later.

3. 

   Consider when your dog barks the most. This behavior is different for each dog, so keep a close eye on your dog. Dogs may bark when you are not feeding, when someone knocks on the door, when someone rings the doorbell, or when someone rings the horn.

4. 

   Simulate the action that triggers a bark. Once you have figured out what made the dog bark, repeat the action. The goal is to let your dog bark, and then praise him.
   • You can see why this exercise can be dangerous for inexperienced dog instructors.
   • That is why the "speaking" exercise is a little different from the rest of the commands. You must incorporate oral commands from the start. Only then will your dog not think you are complimenting him for instinctively barking.

5. 

   Order "speak" by mouth from the start. As soon as the dog barks at the first sound, give the command "talk", click the clicker, and reward it with food.
   • Commands up to now teach the behavior first, then add the command before the behavior.
   • However, the "speaking" exercise will easily lose control if you do so. Dogs are rewarded for barking first.
   • Hence, it is better to associate the imperative with the behavior throughout the process. Never reward a dog barking without a command.

6. 

   Combine "say" and "im."If you have a dog barking too much, you probably won't believe that the “talk” command will help you take control of the situation. However, if you teach your dog how to "talk", you will be able to teach your dog how to "shut up." You may not need a dog to "talk", but you will definitely need to "shut up".
   • Once your dog understands how to "speak", gradually incorporate the "shut" command into the exercise.
   • Ordered "say."
   • However, instead of rewarding for the "voice" (barking), wait until the dog stops barking.
   • Command "shut up."
   • If the dog is quiet, reward the act of “silent” (not barking) with the click and the food.
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Method 13 of 13: Teaching Dogs in a Barn

1. 

   Understand the value of training a dog with a barn. You might think it would be cruel to keep a dog in a cage for a few hours. But dogs are innate animals that need shelter, so an enclosed space does not feel as claustrophobic to them as it does to humans. In fact, dogs that are taught to stay in the barn often find a place to rest.
   • Penetration is very useful when you want to correct your dog's behavior during a long period of absence.
   • For example, many owners keep their dogs in their pens when they go to sleep or leave the house.

2. 

   Practice the dog in the cage from a baby. Even though an adult dog can be taught to stay in a pen, it will be easier if you practice puppy training.
   • However, if your dog is a large breed, do not put it to sleep in a small cage.
   • Dogs won't "settle" where they sleep or relax, so you need a cage of the right size.
   • If you use a cage that is too large, the dog will urinate in the corner of the cage because they think they have plenty of space.

3. 

   Make the barn a place to invite. Do not isolate the dog in the cage by immediately locking the door the first time the dog enters the cage. You want your dog to feel positive about the cage, so that he can comfortably stay in it.
   • At the beginning of the lesson on laying down, keep the cage in a common family gathering place. The purpose is to make the barn a part of communication rather than isolation.
   • Spread a soft blanket and place a favorite dog toy inside the cage.

4. 

   Encourage your dog to enter the cage. Once you have created a welcoming space in the barn, use food to lure the dog in. First, put some food outside the door so the dog can explore the space on his own. Then place the food inside the door, so that the dog will stick its head in and eat. When the comfort is over, add the food deep and deeper into the cage.
   • Repeat until the dog enters the cage without hesitation.
   • Always use a "happy voice" when familiarizing your dog with the cage.

5. 

   Feed the dog in the cage. Once your dog is comfortable getting in and out of the cage for food, stress the positive connection between the cage and feeding time.
   • Place the food bowls where the dog can eat freely. If your dog is still a little worried, you should probably place the bowl right next to the door.
   • After the dog has gotten used to it with time, place the bowl deeper into the cage.

6. 

   Begin to close the barn door behind the dog. With snacks and meals, you will find that your dog will gradually adjust to being in the cage. Dogs still need to learn to get used to closed doors.
   • Start closing the door at feeding time, when the dog is distracted by the food and not looking around.
   • Close the door for short intervals, gradually prolonging the time when the dog begins to get used to.

7. 

   Do not reward when the dog whines. When your puppy purrs, it may be cute, but when an adult dog groans it will drive you crazy. If your puppy keeps moaning constantly, you may have left him in the cage for too long. However, don't let go of him before he stops moaning. Remember - every reward you give reinforces the dog's ultimate behavior, in this case moaning.
   • Instead, let go of the dog when he stops whining.
   • The next time you close the door, leave the dog there for a shorter period of time.

8. 

   Comforting the dog during long exercise in the cage. If your dog makes a noise when he is alone in the cage, bring the cage to your bedroom at night. Use a tick timer or metronome to help lull your puppy to sleep. Make sure they are "released" outside and do not need to "go light" or "go heavy" anymore.
   • Keep your puppy's cage in your bedroom at night so you can hear it if it needs to go out in the middle of the night. If not, they will be forced to go wrong in the barn.
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Advice

• When giving oral commands, use a firm voice. If you want this dog to sit down, do so. Don't repeat the same command over and over again to expect the dog to obey. Stress the command for 2-3 seconds if the dog is not obedient, and then praise him. You don't want to be like the people who keep repeating the "sit" sentence 20 times or more until the dog refuses to sit. You need the dog to sit on the first command, not the twentieth order.
• Do not allow your dog to bite you, even if it is a joke. Doing so will set a bad precedent, and it will be difficult for you to get your dog out of the habit. Dangerous, aggressive breeds will require special training from experienced dog experts. In some cases, you may need an animal behaviorist. You should not have an aggressive dog that has not been properly trained. It's too dangerous.
• Remember that every dog ​​is different. One can learn more slowly than the other, and that's all right. There is no dog that cannot be trained!
• If you are using hand signs, make sure each sign is distinctive and distinct so that your dog can easily recognize and distinguish. There are some standard handprints for basic commands like "sit", "lie", etc. If you are unsure, ask a dog instructor or search online or in a book with a picture of your body language.
• Be consistent. Make sure the command and fingerprint you use each time are the same. It only takes 10-15 minutes a day.
• If your dog loses control, one way to get your dog back on track is to separate it from the "herd". Put them in a cage or crib and leave them alone. Separating from the herd in dog language means "your behavior is hard to accept and we don't like it." Your dog will understand the message immediately. They may yelp and howl, but you have to let it go. Think this is a dog's "fine time". When the dog is calm and stable, let go of the dog. Don't forget to give your dog exercise to regulate its energy levels. Play "catch" is a great way to tire your dog.
• Dog training requires a lot of patience. You may feel frustrated if you choose a breed that doesn't suit your abilities or lifestyle. If you find that you made a mistake, consult an expert. You may have to find a new home for your dog. Contact your dog rescue organization or veterinarian. Don't wait until both you and your dog are miserable. If you can't be patient, take a 1-1 course with a reputable dog trainer. No one "born" has been a dog instructor without training.
• Do not be cruel to dogs or beat them up. If you hit your dog in rage, they will just scare you.
• Clean up if your dog is messing around on someone else's yard or in public. This will help others to love your dog as much as you do.
• If your dog takes something that doesn't belong to you, say, "let it go."
• When teaching your dog to speak, you can try to fake a howl / bark to get the dog to bark in response.
• Give your dog food or reward it if they obey! Remember that your dog will be able to bond with you if he knows you love him.

Warning

• Use a collar and leash that is about the size of your dog. A ring that is too loose or too tight may cause injury.
• Regularly take your dog to the veterinarian and get vaccinated on time. You should also check the applicable permit requirements, and have your dog sterilized as soon as they are old enough.
• Keeping a dog requires almost the same responsibility as raising a child. If you are not ready, do not adopt a dog until you have researched it carefully, and make adjustments to take one home.

TRAINING BOOK SHOULD BE REFERRED

• Regular exercise will help reduce your dog's playfulness in the house. Dogs get bored quickly. And when they get bored, they find a way to "entertain". Maybe by chewing on your favorite shoes, breaking furniture, or barking constantly. Avoid this problem by taking them for regular walks (preferably twice daily). And it's good for you too! "A tired dog is a strong dog." Being active until your dog is tired is different for each dog.
• Don't Shoot The Dog by Karen Pryor
• Getting Started Step: Train with Clicker for Dogs by Karen Pryor
• The Power of Positive Training by Pat Miller
• 25 Foolish Error Dog Breeders Make by Janine Adams
• The Art of Raising a Puppy by Monks of New Skete
• How to be your Dog's Best Friend by Monks of New Skete
• The Right Dog: How to Shape, Train, and Change Your Dog's Behavior by Gail I. Clark