Content

• Steps

Did you just see a honey bee? Is it trembling, lethargic, or exhausted, and you think, "I need to help that bee"? Fortunately there are steps you can take to save the injured honey bee. There are also important measures to ensure good growth of honey bees in your area.

Steps

Method 1 of 3: Treat a honey bee that cannot fly

1. 

   Warm the bees who are cold. If the weather is around 12.8 ° C or colder, honey bees will not be able to fly. If the bee looks normal but moves slowly or is unable to get off the ground, it is most likely cold. Use a piece of hard paper, like a card, to pick up bees and bring them to a warmer place. After being heated, the bee can fly away easily!
   • If it is necessary to bring the bee indoors for heating, place it in a well-ventilated, covered container. As the bees start to move around more, you can take the container out and open the lid and lay it on the ground.

2. 

   
   
   Let the honey bees dry. If bee gets stuck in beer or lemon juice, get it out! It was possible that the bee's wings were so wet that they could not fly. Place the bees in a safe, dry and warm sunny place to dry the wings. Ideally place the bee right on top of a flower!

3. 

   
   
   Feed the bee to help it recover faster. If the bees get cold or shiver, eating and drinking will help them recover quickly. Mix a mixture of 30% real honey and 70% filtered water at room temperature. Use drip straws to place a little on the surface that bees can access.
   • Make sure the mixture is placed on an absorbent surface.
   • Be careful not to drop the mixture on the bee.
   • A mixture of organic sugar and water at a 1: 1 ratio is also good for bees.

4. 

   
   
   Examine the bee's wings. If you find a bee outdoors in mid-summer or early autumn, chances are it is an old bee. Take a close look at its wings. If they are torn at the edge, it could be because it has spent most of its life - yet their foraging behavior remains! Bring the bees inside to feed them, and bring them out if the bees have recovered and flew.
   • If the wings are still intact, chances are you've found a worker bee who is overworked and forgot to drink.
   • Leave the bees outdoors with a little mixture of honey and water. Bees will return to work after they are satisfied.

5. 

   Leave the bees alone most of the time. If the bee moves a little, there's a chance it will be able to fly again soon. Simply bees need rest, and it is better to leave it alone, even bees with torn wings.
   • If you feel the need to provide some water and honey to the bees, do so. In a few minutes, it should be able to fly away.
   • The best option is to place the bees on a flower and let nature heal without being ruined by your manipulations.

6. 

   Rescue honey bee with broken wings. Please understand that the bee may not be able to fly again, and will soon die. However, bees can survive for a while if fed. Keep the bees in a box with a well-ventilated lid, with some water and some flowers. You can also place a little mixture of water and honey on a leaf in a jar where bees can easily find it. Don't try to stick the wings together.
   • Although you can use acrylic glue to fix the wings, this won't work on the wings. Honey bee wings will be harder to hold, endangering you and those beautiful little wings. Honey bees will also quickly "scrub" the glued wings, causing glue to stick all over the body and injure himself.

7. 

   Look for the little red spiders. Actually, it's not true that they are spiders. However, if the red insects fill the honey bee's body, it means the bee has been infected with parasites and will not be saved. If the bee is heated and fed but still does not move after a few minutes, take it out and leave it there. You will not be able to cure an infected honey bee or a parasitic infection.

8. 

   Do not touch the honey bee directly. While it's not dangerous to be stung by just one honey bee, you will still be in pain. You can wear gloves to catch the bees and avoid being stung, although this will lose the dexterity needed to keep the bee from hurting more. Instead, slowly and gently place thick pieces of paper underneath an inaccessible bee to safely move or adjust them. If you've ever been allergic to any bee stings or bee stings, you absolutely shouldn't catch honey bees. advertisement

Method 2 of 3: Help the honey bee revive

1. 

   Look closely at a queen bee in spring! If you find a large honey bee on the ground in spring, when the weather gets warmer, it could be a queen bee! If the queen stops hibernation too soon, it can catch a cold. Don't hesitate to bring the bees inside for heating and feeding. However, you should plan to release the queen in about a day, as whether the bees survive will depend on the queen's return.
   • Usually only the queen bee survives the winter. It will be responsible for building a new army next year.

2. 

   Don't get rid of the honey hive in the yard. If the person you live with is not allergic to bee stings or if the hive is not too close to where you frequent, don't interfere. The hive will stay there for only one season and a pollinator will be of ever-increasing value amid a declining population. In fact, most honey bees only live a few weeks.

3. 

   Keeping bee feeding areas in your yard means choosing your favorite garden plants. Large-scale agricultural production has increased the dependence of honey bees on crops to be grown, so it is becoming increasingly important to provide less laborious food. Specifically, you can grow sweet clover, dutch clover, alfalfa, purple silkworm, clover, and yellow bean flower seeds on your soil.
   • Provides growth conditions for trees and shrubs such as linden (elm), poplar, bodhi, Russian olives, wild plum, elderberry, red maple, willow, dog beetle and honeysuckle.
   • Contact your local natural resources office for information on plantable plants to help honey bees where you live.

4. 

   Eliminate weeds by cutting or plowing the soil. While you may need to use herbicides or insecticides to kill another pest, prioritizing cutting or plucking the weeds in your forecourt will reduce the risk of killing honey bees when using a pesticide. deep. This is especially important if the weeds are growing well.
   • Specifically, cut the grass on fields that are full of earrings, laksa leaves and dandelions before using chemicals. If not, these plants could be overgrown by bees!
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Method 3 of 3: Be conscious of using agrochemicals

1. 

   Do not use pesticides while bees are feeding. In other words, don't spray pesticides while the crops are in bloom! Many insecticides and insecticides have warning labels instructing you not to use them while the crops are blooming. Flowers will attract honey bees, so using insecticides during flowering can result in a decrease in the number of honey bees in your area.
   • Always read and follow the instructions on the pesticide packaging. Choose products that contain short-term drug residues and are labeled with mild hazards.
   • Alfalfa, sunflowers and canola especially attract honey bees, so be careful when handling these crops.

2. 

   Observe the field before applying chemicals. To make sure you cut the lawn first, check your field to see if there are bees foraging. Just walk along the edge of the field and check out any flowering plants. Note that the flowers of some flowering plants do not have to be colorful.

3. 

   Carefully calculate when to use the insecticide. Pollen and nectar are only available to bees in certain plants for a few hours a day. Therefore, be sure to observe the field during the time when you intend to use chemicals, especially insecticides. From dusk to early morning is usually the ideal time. Carry out spraying between 8pm and 6am.
   • If the weather is expected to turn chilly the evening after you spray, use an insecticide at the beginning of this time frame. Cold weather can make insecticides toxic longer, so it will take longer before the bees return to the field.
   • For maize, spray the insecticide at any time from dusk to midnight

4. 

   Do not use pesticides containing neonicotinoids. Some insecticides are particularly dangerous, not only for bees but also for other beneficial insects. Neonicotinoids will penetrate the chemical structure of the plant, and into the nectar and pollen. They will kill honey bees no matter when you spray them. The Bayer Pharmaceutical Group markets these pesticides to farmers as well as to consumers like you.
   • Be careful with the imidacloprid, as this is the most common neonicotinoid. Many Bayer products contain this ingredient. Understand that when you use these products, honey will be poisoned from the plants.

5. 

   Take into account the dispersion. Dispersion will be related to the distance and direction of the chemical's wind-driven spread. There are two things you need to do to calculate the dispersion. First, contact the beekeepers where you live before spraying as soon as possible. Also try to minimize dispersion by reducing the spraying force and using a nozzle with a large droplet size.

6. 

   Be cautious when using fungicides. Although the fungicides are not designed to kill honey bees, they can be toxic when used under certain conditions and will indirectly kill honey bees. For example, fungicides can make honey bees more difficult to find and consume food. Fungicides like Propiconazole are believed to be safe for honey bees, but they are quite toxic when used together with some common surfactants, fertilizers, and pesticides. advertisement