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White spot disease, also known as ich, is a parasitic infection that most hobbyists have to deal with at times. White spot disease kills more fish than any other disease. This disease most commonly occurs in aquarium fish due to close contact with other fish and the stress of living in the tank, unlike fish that live in large water. Ich can occur in two types of freshwater and saltwater tropical fish, requiring different methods of treating and treating the fish's ecosystem and habitat.

Steps

Part 1 of 5: Understand how ich parasites work

1. 

   Distinguishing white spot disease in freshwater fish and saltwater fish. It develops in both freshwater and saltwater fish in the same way but has different cycle lengths and requires different treatments. In both aquatic environments, this single-celled parasite attaches to fish to live. In nature, ich rarely becomes a problem because it is difficult for the parasite to find a host. Even if it is attached, the parasite will eventually come off and the wound on the fish will heal itself. In contrast, when living in a closed tank environment, ich parasites can easily attach to the fish, multiply and infect, eventually killing all the fish in the tank.
   • In fresh water, the ich parasite is known by its name ichthyophthiriasis.
   • In saltwater environments, ich has a name cryptocaryon irritans and is often mistaken for other parasites that cause white spots. Saltwater ich has a longer reproductive cycle than freshwater ich but only has 12 to 18 hours to find a host before dying, unlike freshwater ich which can live up to 48 hours outside the host.

2. 

   
   
   Understand that stress is a factor influencing your risk of infection. Ich is quite common, so most fish have good immunity to it. However, stress can suppress the fish's immune system, and then this parasite will be most prevalent. The following factors can cause stress:
   • The temperature is not suitable and the water is of poor quality
   • Other creatures live in the tank
   • New creature arrived
   • Inappropriate diet
   • How to transport and handle fish during transportation
   • Indoor environment, especially home with a lot of loud noises, door banging, door shaking, people or things moving around constantly around the aquarium

3. 

   
   
   Learn to recognize the ich symptoms. Symptoms of the disease can manifest on the fish and their behavior. The most obvious sign of ich is the appearance of small white spots like salt particles, hence the name white spot disease. Common signs of ich are:
   • White spots on the body of the fish and gills. These spots can stick together to form white patches. Sometimes ich only appears on the gills.
   • Excessive motion. Fish may rub more against plants or rocks in the tank to try to dislodge parasites or from itching.
   • Fin closed. Fish always close their fins close to themselves instead of spreading freely.
   • Heavy breathing. If the fish are getting into the water to catch or often hang around near the filter in the tank, they are probably deprived of oxygen. The ich parasite attached to the gills makes it difficult for the fish to absorb oxygen in the water.
   • Anorexia. If the fish does not eat or spit the food out, it is a sign of stress and disease.
   • Hide-in-action. Animals often lurk when they feel sick, and any change in behavior is often a sign of stress or illness. Fish can lurk in decorative or non-active objects as usual.

4. 

   
   
   Treat the fish when the parasites are most vulnerable. Ich can only be destroyed when they do not cling to the fish, which occurs when fully mature parasites leave the fish to multiply themselves into units infected with the ich parasite. When the parasite attaches to the fish, they are protected from chemicals, and the drug will not work. The ich parasite goes through many life cycle stages:
   • Trophont stage: During this stage, the ich parasite can be seen on fish. They dig under the fish's mucus and form a protective capsule, blocking chemicals and neutralizing drugs. In a conventional aquarium at a temperature of 24 - 27ºC, the trophont phase, also known as the parasitic phase, takes place for a few days before the cysts have fully developed and left the fish.
   • Tomont or tomite phase: During this stage, the treatment can be effective. The parasites in this period, also called tomont, will float for many hours in the water until they attach to a plant or another surface. Once they find something to attach to, they will begin to rapidly divide or multiply within the capsule. A few days later, these cysts will burst, and the newly formed organisms will begin to swim in search of a new host. Freshwater tomont can multiply very quickly in 8 days, while saltwater tomont can take 3 to 28 days to divide.
   • Phase thermonts or swarmer: Freshwater swamers will have to find a host (fish) within 48 hours, otherwise they will die, while saltwater swamers only have 12-18 hours to find a host. So one way to completely get rid of ich in the aquarium is to leave the tank empty for a week or two.

5. 

   Observe the temperature in the tank. High temperatures accelerate the life cycle of the parasite. An aquarium with a higher water temperature will cause the life of the parasites to end in a few days, while a low temperature will cause their life to last for weeks.
   • Never increase the temperature in the water suddenly. This can stress the fish and some fish cannot tolerate the heat.
   • Most tropical fish can withstand temperatures up to about 30ºC. You should always consult a tropical fish specialist to find out what temperature they can tolerate.
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Part 2 of 5: Easy-level treatments

1. 

   Increase the water temperature to 30ºC. Slowly increase the water temperature by 1ºC per hour until the appropriate temperature is reached. Maintain this temperature for at least 10 days. High temperatures accelerate the life cycle of the ich parasite and prevent the tomont from multiplying.
   • Make sure other fish in your tank can tolerate this temperature before proceeding with the temperature increase.
   • If your fish can withstand temperatures higher than 30ºC, you can raise the temperature in the water to 32ºC for 3-4 days, then reduce it to 30ºC for another 10 days.
   • Make sure the tank has enough oxygen or is aerated, as the oxygen level will be less when the water is higher.
   • During this time, you can treat the water with salt and medicine every day.
   • Always make sure the fish can withstand high water temperatures. Observe the fish's reaction to the temperature rise slowly or find out how high your fish can tolerate the heat.

2. 

   Increase the amount of oxygen or aeration in the aquarium to improve the immune system and quality of life of the fish. The ich parasite inhibits the fish's ability to breathe and absorb oxygen, so aeration can help support the fish's immune system and also save them from suffocation. There are several ways to increase oxygen levels in an aquarium:
   • Lowering the water level so that the filtered water hits the surface of the water creates more oxygen.
   • Put more aerators in the tank or move it closer to the water.
   • Use an air bubble disc to create a larger bubble stream.
   • Use a pump to not only increase the oxygen level, but also improve the water flow in the tank.
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Part 3 of 5: Moderate treatments

1. 

   Use aquarium salt to treat ich parasites in fresh water. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt for every 4 liters of water with a small amount of water in the aquarium, then pour the mixture into the tank. Leave the salt in a freshwater tank for 10 days. Salt has the effect of disturbing the fluid regulation of ich, and helps to develop the mucus or natural mucus of the fish to protect them from the ich parasites. You can combine the salt method with heat to increase the effectiveness of ich destruction.
   • Use salt specifically for fish, do not use salt because table salt is not deodorized.
   • Never take the medication with salt and high heat, as salt and medication can react and reduce the amount of oxygen in the tank.
   • Change 25% of the water in the tank every few days and add only the amount of salt corresponding to the amount of water removed. However, when the treatment is complete, change a part of the water without adding salt.

2. 

   Change 25% of the water daily. A daily partial water change can help remove some of the trophont and tomite from the tank and add oxygen to the tank. Make sure to use treated water so that fish are not stressed or injured by the amount of chlorine in the water.
   • If water changes are stressful for the fish, reduce the amount of water exchanged and the frequency of water changes.
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Part 4 of 5: Difficulty level treatments

1. 

   Use medicinal products for the treatment of the aquarium. There are many products sold at pet stores that can help treat ich. Always follow the directions on the label for the correct dose and ensure that the medication can be safely administered to aquatic invertebrates such as snails, shrimp, and shellfish.
   • Always change the water and vacuum the gravel before adding the medication to the water. The medicine is more effective if the water is clean and there is no other dissolved organics or nitrates.
   • Always remove the activated carbon from the filter, as it can neutralize or prevent drug absorption in the aquarium.

2. 

   Copper is used to treat ich in saltwater fish. Saltwater ich persist at the tomite stage much longer, so copper is usually put into the aquarium for 14-25 days and acts similarly to salt to destroy ich. However, this method requires you to use the correct copper dose and check the copper level in your aquarium daily with a copper ion tester. Do not use copper to treat freshwater fish as it can kill fish.
   • Always follow the instructions on the product label.
   • Remove the activated carbon from the filter, as it can neutralize or prevent drug absorption
   • Copper will combine with calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate in rock, sand, and gravel, so make sure you only use copper in your aquarium that is free of these materials.
   • Copper is highly toxic to invertebrates, corals and plants. You need to separate these organisms and dispose of them with other safe methods.

3. 

   Using stronger chemicals to destroy saltwater ich. These methods are considered to be quite dangerous alternative therapies in the treatment of ich. Some chemicals are even harmful to fish and need to be monitored to not kill the fish. Always read labels on these reagents and use protective gear such as gloves and goggles when handling. Some of the chemical treatments include:
   • Malachite green: Similar to human chemotherapy, malachite green destroys the cells' ability to produce energy, a key factor for metabolism. This chemical does not distinguish fish cells from ich parasite cells.
   • Formalin: Formalin kills microorganisms by reacting with proteins and nucleic acids of the cell, altering the function and structure of the cell and is often used to preserve organisms. This substance can damage the filtration system, reduce oxygen levels and kill invertebrates or weak fish.
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Part 5 of 5: Prevention of ich parasites

1. 

   Never buy fish in an aquarium while having any fish with white spot symptoms. Before buying pets in the aquarium, it's best to look for any fish in the store for signs of illness. Even if the fish you buy does not appear to show ich symptoms, it may have been exposed and infecting the aquarium at home.
   • Some fish have a very good immune system and can only act as vectors of disease. By placing an ich parasite in your tank, you expose your tank to organisms that may not have as strong immune systems as the fish you just bought.

2. 

   Isolate any newly purchased fish for 14-21 days. Install a smaller private aquarium so you can watch your newly purchased fish and check for signs of illness. If any disease is detected, it will be much easier to treat, but you need to always take the full dose. Do not think that the tank is small then you can reduce the dose of the medicine.
   • When you add newly purchased fish to a quarantine tank or any tank, never fill the tank with water in your tank. This helps to reduce the risk of getting infected with a tomite.

3. 

   Use a separate racket for each aquarium. This helps to prevent spreading disease to other tanks. Similarly, you should also use sponges and other cleaning equipment for each aquarium.
   • If you cannot buy a lot of racquets, sponges and cleaning equipment, let the tools dry completely before using another tank. The ich parasite cannot survive in a dry environment.

4. 

   Buy only plants in a tank that is free of fish. Plants in an aquarium with fish often carry more pathogens than when grown and sold separately. Alternatively, you can place your aquatic plants in a fish-free quarantine tank for 10 days and treat it with anticholinergic drugs to ensure no infection. advertisement

Advice

• Replace or remove sand, gravel, rock, and other decorations from the tank when handling ich parasites. They often like to cling to surfaces to multiply on their own. Wash and dry these objects to remove any traces of the ich parasite.
• Once you have completed your saline or medication treatment and any signs of the disease have disappeared, slowly change the water of the tank until you are sure the medication is gone. Long-term exposure to chemicals can cause stress and harm the fish.
• If you are serious about keeping fish, buy a microscope and take a slime sample of the fish to confirm white spot disease. There are other types of parasites that can also cause rubbing, closing of the fins and other symptoms. White spot treatments may not be effective in these cases. For best results, you need to identify the parasite before treating it.