Content

• To step
• Part 1 of 6: Picking a Bearded Dragon
• Part 2 of 6: Get the right habitat
• Part 3 of 6: Temperature and light
• Part 4 of 6: Feeding your bearded dragon
• Part 5 of 6: Hygiene
• Part 6 of 6: Picking up your bearded dragon
• Tips

With bearded dragons (singular "bearded dragon" or "bearded dragon") you can become very good friends. Their investigative nature and the ostensible pleasure they get from human company make them popular as pets. In this article you will learn how to care for bearded dragons and how to set up a vivarium to make it as comfortable as possible for them.

To step

Part 1 of 6: Picking a Bearded Dragon

1. Do your research on bearded dragons before buying one. Bearded dragons have specific needs, so you also need specialist knowledge to care for them. First, make sure a bearded dragon is the right pet for you, and make sure you have all the supplies you need before bringing the bearded dragon home.
   • Be aware that while Bearded Dragons make great pets, they are not suitable for children. They need to be watched closely; things like maintaining the right temperature and regularly replacing UVB lamps are essential.
2. Choose a bearded dragon that is longer than 15 cm. Baby dragons can be very delicate and get sick or stressed quickly. Full grown bearded dragons are much easier to care for.
3. Look for a cheerful bearded dragon. The bearded dragon you want is one that looks at you with interest when you walk up to him, and has bright, observant eyes. You don't want an agame who can't lift his head or who looks sleepy.
4. Check that the bearded dragon is fine. The dragon should not have sores, burns, pus, external parasites or malformations.
   • However, be aware that many bearded dragons, for example, miss a toe or a piece of their tail. This does not cause them any further discomfort, as long as the wound looks well healed and shows no signs of infection.
5. Take your new bearded dragon to the vet. Make an appointment with the vet immediately after purchase for a check-up. The vet will check if your bearded dragon is generally healthy and has no parasites.
   • It might be a good idea to bring a stool sample to the check-up. Please check this with the vet first.
   • There are no recommended vaccinations for bearded dragons.

Part 2 of 6: Get the right habitat

1. Most bearded dragons are kept alone (without other animals). The larger bearded dragons can be aggressive towards small ones, and the males are often territorial. In addition, it is often difficult to determine the sex of young bearded dragons, so you do not always know whether you have a male or a female.
2. Buy a vivarium instead of a terrarium or aquarium. Unlike terrariums and aquariums, where each wall is made of glass, a vivarium has three closed walls and one glass wall at the front. A terrarium is more difficult to keep warm, so that either your bearded dragon will suffer from a cold or you will get a sky-high energy bill on the mat. The vivarium must be at least 7.6 x 2.5 x 3.8 cm in size.
   • If you can't find a vivarium, you can also go for an aquarium with mesh over it.
   • If you want to build the habitat yourself, make sure it is well ventilated, easy to disinfect, and can be kept at a high temperature (see below).
   • Wood-walled vivariums should be sealed with polyurethane foam or some other waterproof sealant, and the seams properly sealed to facilitate cleaning and disinfection. The polyurethane takes a few days to dry. Also make sure that the vivarium is well vented before you put your bearded dragon in it so that no toxins get stuck in it.
3. Make sure the habitat is large enough. Bearded dragons can grow to about 60 cm, can move quickly and love to climb, so they need a lot of space. For young bearded dragons, a tank of about 40 liters is big enough, but only for a few months; they grow very fast. An adult bearded dragon needs a lot more room to move: at least 210-225 liters, although 285-455 liters is best.
   • If you are building the habitat yourself, make sure it is at least 122cm long, 61cm wide and 48cm high.
   • You can also buy an adult vivarium right away to save money. You can optionally use movable partitions to keep increasing the space as your bearded dragon grows.
4. Cover the top of the vivarium with gauze. Do not use glass, plexiglass or wood for this, because then there is too little air circulation and it also keeps too much moisture in the tank. Mesh ensures that enough air flows in and out, that enough light and heat comes from the lamps, and that moisture can escape.
   • Make sure the lid fits properly.
5. Provide ground cover. The bottom of the vivarium should be covered with a material that is safe for your bearded dragon and easy to keep clean. Do not choose material that poses a risk to your bearded dragon: Bearded dragons sometimes like to swallow cover material made of small pieces, which can lead to impaction (blockage of the intestines) and can be fatal. Use a flat newspaper, kitchen paper, "butcher paper" or "reptile carpet" (a type of ground cover especially for reptiles). These materials are inexpensive, easy to clean / replace, and pose no risk to your precious pet.
   • If you are using "reptile carpet", go for the kind that looks and feels like artificial turf. The kind that is made of felt consists of small loops of fabric that your bearded dragon's nails can catch on. This could cause injury.
   • Never use sand, sawdust, pressed corn kernels, synthetic fiber granules, cat gravel, potting compost with vermiculite, pesticides, fertilizers or wetting agents, or any loose bedding.
6. Set up some "furniture" for your bearded dragon. Provide an environment in which your bearded dragon can climb, hide, and sunbathe - all activities that will help your bearded dragon feel good and stay healthy.
   • Lay out some branches for your bearded dragon to climb on and sunbathe. Place them under the secondary heat source. Make sure they are big enough for your bearded dragon to lie on. Oak wood is a good option, as are shelves covered with carpet. Do not use wood with resin or pitch.
   • Set up some smooth stones for your bearded dragon to sunbathe on and keep track of his nails.
   • Give your bearded dragon its own place to isolate itself: something like an empty box, cardboard tube, or flower pot. This hiding place should be nice and cozy, so not too big, and should be placed somewhere higher up in the vivarium. If your Bearded Dragon refuses to use the hideout, you can try moving it or use another item.
   • Place a few plants that provide shade, humidity, and a sense of security. Make sure these plants are not poisonous to your bearded dragon (examples include dracaena or dragon's blood tree and hibiscus / althea bushes). The plants and the soil in which they stand must not be treated with toxins, vermiculite, fertilizers or humidifiers. First wash the plant with a spray bottle and put enough water in the soil so that it seeps out at the bottom: this will flush out any toxins. Sometimes it is also a good idea to move the plants to a different part of the house for a while before giving them to your bearded dragon.

Part 3 of 6: Temperature and light

1. Provide a primary heat source. This source must be able to maintain a temperature that is comfortable for your bearded dragon. Bearded dragons are used to a daytime temperature of between 25 and 31 degrees Celsius, and an evening temperature of between 21 and 26 degrees.
   • Hang a number of heat lamps above the vivarium. These must be off at night; during the night you use a different heat source that is adjusted to the room temperature.
   • For the evening you can place a heating pad under the vivarium, or use a ceramic infrared heating panel.
   • There are heat lamps specially designed for reptiles, which emit a lot of heat but little light; however, these are quite pricey.
   • For habitats that are in larger spaces, you also need to adjust the room temperature using a thermostat or electric heater.
   • Always ensure that there is a fire alarm in the room in which the vivarium is located, because of the light and heat sources that are on a large part of the time.
2. Provide a secondary heat source. Bearded dragons like a certain temperature profile, so that they can move between warmer and cooler places. The secondary heat source provides a place where they can sunbathe. This area should cover about 25-30% of the total area and have a temperature of about 35-38 degrees Celsius. You can use a special solar lamp, or go for a 30-75 watt incandescent lamp with a ceramic shade. Secure the secondary heat source in a place where the bearded dragon cannot reach it.
   • Never use hot stones as a heat source!
   • Be aware that baby dragons living in smaller habitats will need a lower wattage light, otherwise the vivarium may get too hot.
   • Temperatures above 43 degrees Celsius are not recommended, but a few degrees below is fine.
   • By using two thermometers, one on the hot side and one on the cold side, you can ensure that the temperatures always remain at the right level.
3. Use UVB lighting. Bearded dragons need enough UV light to make vitamin D, which they need to absorb enough calcium. A calcium deficiency can lead to metabolic bone diseases. You can use a fluorescent or mercury lamp. Fluorescent lamps need to be replaced approximately every six months as their UVB production gradually declines. Bearded dragons need light for about 12 to 14 hours a day.
   • Make sure fluorescent lights emit at least 5 percent UVB (check packaging).
   • Consider using light strips to illuminate the entire length of the vivarium.
   • There are also UV lamps (blacklights) especially for reptiles that produce light with a wavelength of 290-320 nanometers. (These are not the same lights that you sometimes find in greenhouses or nightclubs - they do not produce UVB radiation). It does not matter whether the lamps emit white light as well as UVB or only UVB.
   • Ideally, the source of UVB radiation is about 25-30 centimeters above where the bearded dragon spends most of its time (e.g., the sun spot), so that it gets enough UVB. Do not hang the lamp more than 45 centimeters from here.
   • Remember that UVB radiation cannot pass through glass. The UVB source should hang above the mesh, and the mesh should not be too thick or fine-meshed.
   • The sun is still the best source of UVB radiation. On sunny days when the temperature is high enough (see Part 3, Step 1 above), you can put your bearded dragon outside in a secure cage made of mesh or wire with a lock. Also make sure there is shade and a hiding place.

Part 4 of 6: Feeding your bearded dragon

1. Feed your bearded dragon food that is not too large. The rule of thumb is that the food should not exceed the distance between your bearded dragon's eyes. If the food is too large, your bearded dragon could choke, its intestines could become blocked, or its hind legs could become paralyzed.
2. Feed young bearded dragons a diet consisting mainly of small insects. Bearded dragons are omnivores and therefore eat both animal and plant material. However, hatchlings and bearded dragons have different nutritional needs. Feed your Bearded Dragon as many tiny bugs as it can eat in five to 10 minutes. When your bearded dragon stops eating, you also stop feeding. Young bearded dragons can eat up to 20-60 young crickets (about the size of a pinhead).
   • Bearded dragons that have just hatched mainly eat small insects. Feed a very young Bearded Dragon small critters, such as young crickets and tiny worms that have just shed their skin. You can gradually add some day-old baby mice as your bearded dragon gets older. These are for sale as reptile food.
   • Feed youngsters (two to four months old) a mix of 80 percent small insects and 20 percent vegetables (see below which vegetables are suitable).
   • Young agams need to be fed two to three times a day.
3. Feed an adult bearded dragon enough vegetables. The adult diet consists of about 60 to 65 percent plant food and 30 to 45 percent prey. Calcium-rich leafy greens and other vegetables make up most of an adult bearded dragon's diet.
   • Feed your bearded dragon a salad consisting of cabbage vegetables, thistles, endive, grape leaf, mustard, swede and / or watercress.
   • You can add the following vegetables in small amounts for an even more varied diet: acorn gourd, red and green peppers, butternut squash, green beans, lentils, peas, winter squashes, snow peas, sweet potato, and turnip. If you are feeding pumpkins, cook them well first or put them in the microwave to soften them.
   • Give the following vegetables as a surprise to your bearded dragon very occasionally, but certainly not too often: white cabbage, chard and kale (rich in calcium oxalate, which can cause metabolic bone disease); carrots (rich in vitamin A, which is poisonous at high doses); spinach, broccoli and parsley (rich in goitrogens, which hinder the function of the carapace color); and corn, cucumber, radishes, Brussels sprouts and zucchini (these contain few bearded dragon nutrients).
   • By spraying the vegetables with water you can keep them longer and your bearded dragon dries out less quickly.
   • Shred the vegetables and mix them together in a salad. This forces the bearded dragon to eat everything, not just his favorite food.
4. Save fruits and certain plants for special occasions. You can feed your bearded dragon small amounts of the following fruits and plants: apple, apricot, banana, berries, cantaloupe, figs, grapes, mango, orange, papaya, peach, pear, plum, tomato, dragon plant / dragon tree, geraniums , hibiscus (flowers and leaves), violets, petunias and rose petals.
5. Feed your adult Bearded Dragon prey food once a day. Do this together with the plant food. For example, you can feed it crickets, (meal) worms, waxworms, baby mice and cockroaches.
   • You can "fatten" the prey food beforehand by feeding it a nutrient-rich diet. This is also called "gutloading", from the English "gut loading". You can do this one to two days before feeding the prey to your bearded dragon.Feed the prey, for example, ground beans, cornstarch, carrots, sweet potato, cabbage vegetables, mustard vegetables, broccoli, spinach, apple, orange, cereal or oats.
   • Always remove uneaten prey food from the vivarium.
   • It is advisable to buy the prey food from the store, as captured animals (for example from your own garden) are sometimes exposed to poisons or parasites that are harmful to your bearded dragon.
   • Fireflies are poisonous to bearded dragons.
   • Silkworms are only a good (and temporary) diet for sick or pregnant bearded dragons.
6. Cover plant and insect food with a phosphate-free calcium supplement. You can buy this in powder form (phosphate-free!) And sprinkle it over the food before serving. Do this once a day for young bearded dragons (up to two years old) and once or twice a week for adult animals.
   • Consider giving your bearded dragon a vitamin D3 supplement as well.
   • Always read the food's instructions and listen carefully to your vet. This way you know how many supplements to give. Overdoses can be toxic.
7. Don't be too concerned if your bearded dragon refuses to eat. When it comes time to shed, bearded dragons sometimes stop eating. If this continues for more than three days and your bearded dragon is still not shed, this could indicate illness. In that case, make an appointment with the vet.
8. Give your bearded dragon fresh water every day. Put the water in a shallow bowl. You can splash your finger a little in the water to draw attention. Bearded dragons are very focused for movement, so ripples in the water are very interesting to them. However, many bearded dragons refuse to drink from a bowl, so you may have to carefully drip the water into his mouth with a pipette.
   • Bearded dragons often defecate in their water bowl, so change the water every day (or immediately if you see it is contaminated). For the same reason, you should disinfect the bowl every week with a mixture of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water to prevent the growth of bacteria.
   • If your bearded dragons refuse to drink, you can try spraying it gently with a little water. He will then lick the drops from his skin.

Part 5 of 6: Hygiene

1. Bathe your bearded dragon. A weekly bath will keep your bearded dragon hydrated and also help it shed.
   • The bath water should feel warm against your own skin and certainly not too hot. Compare it to bath water for a small child.
   • Make sure that the water does not reach above the chest / half of the front legs of your bearded dragon. Make the bath about as deep as the second knuckle of your index finger for adults and the first knuckle for young animals.
   • Never leave your bearded dragon in the bath alone - accidents can happen.
   • It is advisable to disinfect the bath after bathing, because bearded dragons often defecate in the water. Again, use a mixture of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water.
2. Keep the vivarium clean. Clean the vivarium weekly, not forgetting the food and water bowl.
   • Mix 1 part bleach with 10 parts water in a spray bottle.
   • Get your bearded dragon out of the cage. Ask someone to hold it or put it in a secure fence.
   • Wipe up dust and excrement with hot soapy water and a clean cloth.
   • Spray the bleach mixture over the entire surface of the vivarium until it is soaked, then let it soak for 15 minutes. Then dry the surface with a cloth or kitchen paper, making sure that all food and faeces are cleaned up.
   • Rinse all surfaces repeatedly with water until you no longer smell bleach. The bleach smell must have disappeared completely.
3. Make sure you stay clean yourself. It is important to wash your hands often when caring for a reptile. Always wash your hands before and after picking up your bearded dragon to keep both yourself and your pet healthy. This also ensures that you do not transmit diseases to your bearded dragon. Moreover, you run much less risk of a salmonella infection yourself. This risk is very low anyway, but by washing your hands you reduce the risk even more. As a result, you are more likely to get salmonella from your own food than from your bearded dragon.
   • Since bearded dragons can carry salmonella, it is best to use a separate sponge to clean their food and water bowl. Pay close attention to children playing with your bearded dragon and do not let the animal crawl around the kitchen. In addition, never give your bearded dragon a kiss, no matter how much you love him.

Part 6 of 6: Picking up your bearded dragon

1. Take your bearded dragon out of its cage at least once a day. Bearded dragons are curious, conversational beasts that ostensibly enjoy human company. By holding and playing with them often, they get used to people and are less stressed when, for example, it is time to clean their vivarium or visit the vet.
   • Pick up your bearded dragon by placing your hand under its tummy and gently picking it up. Let him lie on your palm and gently curl your fingers around his waist.
2. You may want to wear gloves and long sleeves. Bearded dragons have very rough skin; this way you prevent scratches.
3. Trim your bearded dragon's toenails every few weeks. The nails become razor sharp if not kept up.
   • Wrap your bearded dragon in a towel. Let one leg stick out.
   • Ask someone else to hold the Bearded Dragon.
   • Use nail clippers to trim only the very tip of the nail. Be careful: reptiles have a vein running through their nails.
   • If you do accidentally cut this vein, stop the bleeding by dabbing a little cornstarch on the wound with a cotton ball.
   • You can also file the nails, or have it done by the vet for a small fee.
4. Read your bearded dragon's body language. You will understand your Bearded Dragon better if you learn the meaning of certain movements and gestures.
   • Expanded "beard": When a bearded dragon wants to show dominance - this happens especially during the breeding season - it expands its beard to make it bigger.
   • Wide-open mouth: Like the stuffed beard, this gesture is intended to make the bearded dragon look more dangerous, show dominance, or scare off a potential enemy.
   • Move head up and down: Males claim dominance with this gesture.
   • Paw swinging: Sometimes a bearded dragon holds up one of its paws and swings it slowly back and forth; this is a sign of surrender or submission.
   • Tail in the air: you often see this during the breeding season. It can also be a sign of alertness or cheerfulness. Juveniles often raise their tails in the air while hunting for prey.
5. Take your bearded dragon to the vet once a year. After the first visit immediately after purchase, it is important that your bearded dragon gets a health check every year. This way you can spot any problems early and keep your buddy as healthy as possible.

Tips

• Whatever the article says, don't put a heating pad under the cage. Bearded dragons burn themselves because they cannot tell if it is hot; they are cold-blooded and take their heat from the lamps.
• The same goes for heated stones! Bearded dragons cannot sense if they are hot and will burn their tummies. This can be dangerous. Instead, use solar lights. This is a good heat source that will not cause any damage.
• Use OO water for misting (water that has been cleaned by reverse osmosis). Such water is filtered and therefore does not contain any substances that are harmful to your bearded dragon.
• Do not put sand in the cage. This can cause problems if the bearded dragon swallows it and is very dangerous; they can die from it.
• If you are feeding your bearded dragon a large insect, leave it there and do not continue feeding. Put down fresh water and let the bearded dragon rest.
• Mist your bearded dragon with water during the winter months when the humidity is low. Mist your bearded dragon with a spray bottle several times a week will help keep it hydrated.
• Make never something clean with a bleach solution! Even if you can no longer smell the bleach, it can still leave residue. The bearded dragon can absorb these residues through its skin. First, use a non-toxic cleaner, rinse until you can no longer smell it, then use household vinegar and rinse again. Let the habitat dry before returning the bearded dragon.
• If your tank automatically reduces the humidity (some tanks have moisture regulators), spray a little water into the tank 1 or 2 times with a spray bottle. This increases the humidity and allows the bearded dragon to rehydrate itself.
• Never put sand in the vivarium! This can cause terrible digestive problems. Do not put your bearded dragon in the vivarium immediately after purchase, but place it on a heating pad first. Make this heating pad by stuffing a sock with rice, squeezing it with an elastic band, and heating it in the microwave for 1-2 minutes.