Content

• To step
• Part 1 of 3: Taking succulent cuttings
• Part 2 of 3: Preparing and planting succulent cuttings
• Part 3 of 3: Caring for young cuttings
• Tips
• Warnings

Most succulents are easy to propagate and have enough leaves to try and get a large amount all at once without too much effort. Succulents can even be propagated from a single leaf, although some varieties require a cutting with a decent stem. Note that aloe vera plants require a different approach for the best results.

To step

Part 1 of 3: Taking succulent cuttings

1. Start at the beginning of the growing season. However, you can try propagating succulents at any time of the year. However, you will have the greatest chance of success if you start towards the end of the plant's dormancy period or at the start of the growing season. In most cases this is the beginning of spring, but some types of succulents start to grow in the fall or winter.
   • If you already have a succulent cutting, move on to the next section to plant this cutting. Most succulents have a relatively high success rate of propagation, whether you followed the following steps to remove a cutting or not.
2. Sterilize a sharp knife. Choose a razor blade or sharp knife that is suitable for cutting straight through the plant. Reduce the risk of infection by heating the blade in an open flame or by rubbing the blade with alcohol.
   • Using pruning shears or hand picking methods is not recommended as this can cause tears and cracks that may prevent the blade from healing sufficiently. If you do try to pluck the leaves, make sure that the entire leaf snaps off the stem and do so with a gentle tug and not too hard.
3. Decide if you will cut individual leaves or a larger piece. Most succulents can grow from a single leaf as well as from part of the stem into a new plant. However, some genera such as "Dudleya" and "Aeonium" require a piece of the stem. We refer to the steps below for information.
   • If you don't know what gender or species your succulent belongs to, try both methods. The mother plant is unlikely to suffer if you follow the guidelines below, so this experiment does not pose many risks.
   • With some unusual genera, but especially with aloe vera plants, the plant is best propagated by removing a fresh shoot.
4. Choose a blade to cut. If your succulent has a "rosette" of small rotating leaves at the top of the stem, leave this undisturbed and cut leaves from the bottom, but not directly from the base of the plant. For succulents that are more likely to grow outward instead of upward, cut off the outer leaves from the outside. Cut leaves where they attach to the stem and make a straight cut.
   • Go straight to the section to plant your cutting, unless you also want to take a cutting from the stem.
   • If you have a succulent with very large leaves, go to Tips.
5. Select a stem to cut. Most succulents are not difficult to grow, but you can increase the chances of a healthy plant by choosing the right cutting. Ideally, choose a stem that is actively growing, near the top or the outside of the plant, and that is 10-15 inches tall. Cut immediately below any point of attachment of the stem or below the point where a leaf or bud joins the stem. If possible, opt for a piece with at least two leaves (or bunches of leaves).

Part 2 of 3: Preparing and planting succulent cuttings

1. Detach leaves from the bottom of the stem. If you are using a cutting from the stem, remove the lower clusters of leaves. Remove these with the same sterilized knife, leaving the last 4-10 inches of the stem exposed. Do not remove leaves that are higher on the cutting of the stem.
   • If there are buds on your site, leave them in place.
2. Dip the end in carrot powder (optional). Commercial root powder can accelerate the development of the cutting and often contains an anti-rotting anti-fungal agent. This treatment is recommended for rotting cuttings and old, "woody" cuttings from the stem, but is usually not necessary otherwise.
   • Some gardeners report the successful use of ground cinnamon as a cheaper alternative to anti-fungal treatment. They then sprinkle this on the cut end.
3. Let the cutting dry in a slightly shaded place. Keep the cutting on kitchen paper out of direct sunlight and check the cut end regularly. The cut should dry up, making the plant less prone to rot. Cuttings from the stem can be planted after one or two days of drying. Leaf cuttings will undergo a more visible change and a crust will grow over the cut surface. This can take anywhere from two to seven days.
   • If a leaf shrivels significantly during this time, you may need to plant it earlier. This will have a lower success rate, but the foliage may die if it dries completely.
   EXPERT TIP

   Prepare a succulent soil mixture. While you wait for the cuttings to dry, fill a small pot with a cactus or succulent soil mixture that drains quickly. If you want to make your own mixture, mix three parts potting soil, two parts sand and one part perlite.

   • If possible, use rough, salt-free sand from the store, as self-collected sand may contain micro-organisms or salts that could damage the plant.
4. Choose a suitable size pot in which to plant your cutting. Succulents thrive in pots that are not much larger than the plant itself. Pots that have about 5 inches of space to grow are ideal for when the cutting starts to grow.
   • The pot must have a drainage hole.
5. Plant the cutting. Cuttings from the stem can be planted as usual. Bury the stem until the lower leaves are just above the ground, but be careful not to let them touch the ground. Buried leaves are likely to rot, so on a leaf cutting, try to make sure that the cut end just touches the soil surface and raise the leaf with pebbles.
6. Water occasionally. Succulents generally don't need a lot of water. Still, you should water the cuttings every 2 to 3 days as they take root. Once the plants have developed a root system, you can switch to weekly watering or water only when the soil is dry.
   • Don't worry if the cuttings look like they're dying at first. This means that the plant uses the stored energy to create new roots.
   • If all goes well, you should see new growth after about 4 weeks.

Part 3 of 3: Caring for young cuttings

1. Place the plant in a warm, airy place. Young cuttings often do not yet have the water reserves to tolerate direct sunlight, unlike adult specimens. They thrive in indirect sunlight and prefer a temperature around 20 ° C and places with good air flow.
2. Keep the soil slightly moist. Young succulent cuttings need regular water to stay alive and develop roots. However, succulents are adapted to dry climates and will usually start to rot in very wet conditions. Try using a spray can or small pitcher to add water to the top of the soil once it starts to dry out, about every two to three days. Spray the leaf cuttings directly, as they have not yet developed roots.
   • If your tap water contains a lot of chlorine, or if the cuttings start to rot, try using distilled water.
3. Reduce watering as the plant develops. A cutting from the stem can already have an adequate root system after four weeks. From then on it is even possible to water only monthly. Leaf cuttings will develop more slowly, but this can be monitored visually as small leaves and roots begin to develop from the cut end. Gradually reduce how often you water once the roots are in the ground. This can take six weeks or more.
4. Use fertilizers sparingly. Succulents are slow-growing plants and are not used to growing in soil that contains a lot of nutrients. Use a balanced fertilizer (e.g. 10-10-10) only during the growing season and only when the young plant is at least four weeks old and has developed roots. Consider using half or a quarter of the specified fertilizer dose to prevent the plant from growing too tall with few leaves or burning the root system.

Tips

• Some types of succulents with large leaves can even grow from cuttings of part of the leaf:
  • Streptocarpusspecies have leaves that may be cut lengthwise, with the central rib removed. These should be inserted into a shallow hole with the cut part down.
  • Sansevieria- and Eucomisspecies may have leaves that may be cut in width to 5 centimeter pieces. These should be inserted with the bottom 2 inches deep.
  • Begonia and Sinningia can be cut into 2.5 cm² leaf segments, each with a large vein. Secure it to the ground using a sterile needle.

Warnings

• If the plant has thorns or spines, wear thick gloves or wrap your fingers in tape before handling the plant.