Content

• To step
• Part 1 of 6: Before you start: choosing the right tartan pattern
• Part 2 of 6: Sizes and preparations
• Part 3 of 6: Making the folds
• Part 4 of 6: Adding a skirt band
• Part 5 of 6: Applying the liner
• Part 6 of 6: The final touch
• Necessities

A traditional kilt can be challenging to make, but with enough time and patience, even a budding seamstress can complete the project. This article will teach you how to make this garment for men.

To step

Part 1 of 6: Before you start: choosing the right tartan pattern

1. Choose a tartan according to the clan. Clans and large families of Scottish descent often have their own diamond patterns since the early 1800s. You can only wear a clan diamond pattern if your family has connections to that clan now or in the past.
   • Find out which clan you belong to. As long as you know your last name, or a last name associated with Scottish ancestors, you can search online for the name of your clan. You can search for your clan's name here: http://www.scotclans.com/scottish-clans/clans-a-z/
   • Track information about your clan. Once you know the name of your clan, you can search for more information about your clan so that you can find the pattern or patterns of the tartan associated with it. Find information about your clan here: http://www.scotclans.com/scottish_clans/
2. Choose a district tartan. District tartans are as old as clan tartans, if not older. There are district tartans for every part of Scotland and many for areas around the world too. You can wear a district tartan if you or your family are from that district.
   • Look up Scottish districts here: http://www.scotclans.com/whats_my_clan/district_tartans/scottish_district_tartans/
   • Look up other UK districts here: http://www.scotclans.com/whats_my_clan/district_tartans/british_district_tartans/
   • Look up US districts here: http://www.scotclans.com/whats_my_clan/district_tartans/usa_district_tartans/
   • Look up Canadian districts here: http://www.scotclans.com/whats_my_clan/district_tartans/canada_district_tartans/
   • Look up other districts here: http://www.scotclans.com/whats_my_clan/district_tartans/world_district_tartans/
3. Opt for a regimental tartan. Some Scottish regiments and other regiments in different parts of the world have their own tartan patterns. If you are a member of a particular regiment, or have some other direct connection to it, then that tartan would be a good choice for you.
   • View different regimental startans here: http://www.scotclans.com/whats_my_clan/regimental_tartans/
4. Stick to a universal tartan when all else fails. Universal tartan patterns can be worn by anyone regardless of clan, district or other distinguishing information.
   • Older, more traditional options include Hunting Stewart, Black Watch, Caledonian, and Jacobite.
   • Modern universal options include the Scottish National, Brave Heart Warrior, Flower of Scotland, and Pride of Scotland.

Part 2 of 6: Sizes and preparations

1. Take the hip and waist measurements. Take a tape measure and measure the distance around both your hips and your waist. These measurements will determine how much material you will need for the kilt.
   • For women, measure around the thinnest part of your waist and the fullest part of your hips.
   • For men: Measure around the top corner of your hip bones and the fullest part of your butt.
   • When taking measurements, make sure the tape measure is tight and parallel to the ground.
2. Determine the length of the kilt. A traditional kilt length will be the length between your waist and the center of your knee. Use a tape measure to calculate this distance.
   • If you plan to wear a wide kilt belt on your kilt, you should add 5 cm to this measurement, for a high waist.
3. Calculate how much material you need. Since you need to form pleats from your material, you will need a much greater length of material than the distance around your waist.
   • Measure the width of the "check" or pattern on the plaid or tartan material. Each fold will consist of a full diamond with a 2.5 cm visible fold. In other words, if the diamond on your material is 6 inches wide, then each pleat will use 6 inches.
   • Calculate the amount of material you need by multiplying half of your hip measurement by the amount of material you need per pleat and add this result to your full hip measurement. Add an additional 20% for additional bending and centering to get your total amount of cms needed.
4. Hem the material as needed. Pin the top and bottom edges of the material over, making sure to fold them onto the outside edge of a diamond on both sides. Sew the hems in place with a straight stitch or use a self-adhesive anti-fray fluid on the edges.
   • This will not be necessary if the material has a finished edge on the top and bottom.

Part 3 of 6: Making the folds

1. Make the first fold. The first crease will help center the material so it will be slightly different from the other creases in the end.
   • Fold roughly 6 inches of material under itself on the right side of the material. Pin it in place at the waist.
   • Make a fold on the left side of the material that encompasses two diamonds. Secure it with a safety pin on the waist.
2. Measure out your folds. On a piece of cardboard or durable cardboard, mark the width of a diamond. Divide this marked part into three to eight equal parts.
   • Use your common sense to determine how many parts the pattern should be divided into. The central part will peek through the crease, so your central part should cover an attractive part of the pattern.
3. Crimp the rest of the outside of the lap. Place your cardboard guide above each window when you fold it. Place the folded edge of each fold over the part of the pattern that is equal to it in the fold next to it. Secure it with a safety pin.
   • The cardboard guide should give you an idea of ​​where to fold your first few folds. But after you have started folding, you discover that you no longer need the guide because it is a simple matter of collapsing patterns.
4. Baste the pleats along the bottom of the material. Use a basting stitch to grab the edge of each pleat, holding it in place at the bottom of the material.
   • You should baste two seams. The first basting stitch should be about 1/4 the length up from the bottom of the material, and the second should be about 1/2 the length up from the bottom.
5. Iron the folds flat. Use a steam iron to press the pleats in place, making them more durable and helping the pleats hold their shape. Iron along each folded corner of each crease.
   • If your iron isn't using steam, you can dampen a thin press cloth and place it over the creases. Place this press cloth between the iron and the material of your kilt, and steam press the folds in this way.
6. Sew the pleats. Sew through the full thickness of the folds and down the fold at each fold.
   • Using your sewing machine, sew a straight stitch across the top of your pleats, roughly an inch from the top edge.
   • Using your sewing machine, sew a straight stitch across the folded, ironed vertical edge of each pleat. Do not sew more than about 4 inches of the material. Do not sew the pleats all the way to the bottom.
7. Trim the back of the pleats. This folding method can result in excess material, you can cut this material.
   • Cut away any excess from the area that starts about an inch above the hip and ends at the waist. Do not cut material from the first and last fold.

Part 4 of 6: Adding a skirt band

1. Cut a piece of matching material for the skirt band. The material should be 13 cm wide and the length should match the length of the top edge of your kilt apron.
   • This should be just a bit longer than your original waist measurement.
2. Sew the skirt band to the top edge of the outside of the apron. Fold the bottom edge of the fabric over 1.3 cm for the skirt edge. Sew this folded edge an inch away from the top edge of the kilt apron, on the outside.
   • The remaining width of the skirt edge should be folded over the top of the kilt. You don't need to finish it because the lining will cover the rough edges.

Part 5 of 6: Applying the liner

1. Cut a piece of tarpaulin into pieces. Cut 91 cm of tarpaulin or canvas into 25 cm wide pieces.
2. Gradually fold sections of tarpaulin around your waist. The liner will be formed from three pieces of 25 cm wide strips.
   • Fold the first section along the wearer's back.
   • Attach two additional pieces to the first in the places on the right and left where there would normally be a side seam.
   • Bring these two side pieces together, guiding them along the front until each piece reaches the side seam on the other side.
   • Pin everything in place.
3. Sew the lining to the skirt band. Line up the top edge of the lining with the inside top edge of the skirt edge and sew it in place.
   • Do an overlap stitch along the inside top of the apron to secure the lining to the apron of the kilt.
   • Only the top needs to be secured. You don't have to sew the bottom of the lining to the apron.
   • Note that the inside of the skirt band is also sewn under the lining, securing it in place.
4. Hem the material. Fold the bottom edge of the lining in and sew a straight stitch along the material, hemming it in place. Do not sew it to the outer apron.
   • You can also use self-adhesive anti-fraying fluid if you don't want to sew the seam closed.

Part 6 of 6: The final touch

1. Secure two thin straps to the inside of the kilt. You will need two leather straps that are roughly an inch wide and long enough to wrap around your waist.
   • The first leather belt should run just below the skirt band, on the inside of the kilt.
   • The second leather belt should be just above the bottom part of the sewn-in part of your pleats. This must also be on the inside of the kilt.
   • Sew the straps in place. The leather part of the straps should be secured to the lining, while the buckle parts should be secured to the pleats.
2. Sew Velcro to the apron. For additional support, sew a strip of Velcro on the top of the apron.
   • One half of the Velcro should be sewn over the top right side of the front flap, while the other half should be sewn on the wrong side of the left side at the top.
3. Wear the kilt. With this your kilt should be complete. Wear it by wrapping the material around your waist and buckling the straps so that the material stays in place. Use the Velcro to add extra support so your kilt stays firmly in place.

Necessities

• Measuring tape
• Tartan or plaid material
• Tarpaulin or canvas fabric c
• Sewing machine
• Matching thread
• Self-adhesive anti-fray liquid
• Pencil
• Cardboard or durable cardboard
• Safety pins
• Two belts of 2.5 cm wide
• Velcro