Content

• To step
• Part 1 of 4: Caring for the amaryllis after the old flower has wilted
• Part 2 of 4: Caring for the amaryllis in the summer
• Part 3 of 4: Caring for the amaryllis in the fall
• Part 4 of 4: Preparing for the new bloom
• Tips
• Warnings

Amaryllis flowers typically appear in winter or spring and bloom for several weeks before wilting. Compared to most other flowers, amaryllis bulbs are easy to stimulate to re-bloom, but for best results, they need to be properly cared for all year round to ensure they develop properly each season. If the flowers of your amaryllis have already withered, then you have a chance of success as long as the fall dormancy period has not yet started.

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Part 1 of 4: Caring for the amaryllis after the old flower has wilted

1. Remove any flower when it wilts. Once a flower has wilted, cut the flower where it joins the main stem. Use a clean knife or scissors. Make sure to remove the green knob and thin green stem that connects the flower to the main stem. This prevents the plant from producing seeds, which require a lot of energy that could otherwise be directed towards survival and growth. EXPERT TIP

   Cut the flower stems when they turn yellow or droop. The stems contain food and water for the plant to use, but will likely go limp or turn yellow soon after the flower has wilted. They are now no longer useful and must therefore be pruned back to a maximum of five centimeters from the bulb.

   • Be careful not to cut the leaves and the top of the bulb. Only the flower stems need to be removed.
   • Don't be alarmed if juice comes out of the cut. This is normal for a well-watered plant.
2. Move the amaryllis to an area with bright, indirect light. Most people with amaryllis plants keep them indoors while they bloom in winter. If you do this, place the plant in a contact frame that receives indirect sunlight to acclimate the plant to more sunlight. Choose a spot that is brightly lit with plenty of sunlight, but where the plant doesn't get direct sunlight. You can skip this step if the plant has already received indirect or full sunlight.
   • In the Northern Hemisphere, north and east windows receive indirect sunlight. In the southern hemisphere, these are south- and east-facing windows.
   • Also make sure that your plant stays relatively cool, at about room temperature. This is around or slightly warmer than 15.5 degrees Celsius.
3. Water the soil when it starts to dry out. Your amaryllis probably needs to be watered daily unless it is in a moist environment or planted outside in moist soil. Do not let the soil dry out completely, in any case no longer than a few hours.
   • You must keep the soil slightly moist at all times. After growth begins, you should also fertilize the plant with a semi-strength, water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks.
4. Continue with the summer section as soon as the weather starts to get warm. Depending on the local climate, this period usually starts in May or June in the Northern Hemisphere. In the southern hemisphere this is usually in December or January.

Part 2 of 4: Caring for the amaryllis in the summer

1. Once summer has started, you can put the plant outside. After the last frost and the weather is consistently warm, you can plant the plant outside in a flower bed or in your garden. Bury the plant with the pot up to the edge of the pot, or just above it, in the soil. If possible, choose a spot where there is full sun in the morning, but where the plant is protected from the sun during the hottest part of the day.
   • Amaryllises grow better in a pot, which also protects them against burrowing animals and insects. It is possible to grow the plant directly in the soil, but it is more difficult.
   • When the plant has just moved outside, the leaves may droop. However, with proper care, new straight leaves will grow.
2. Continue to water regularly. Check the soil daily and water when it is dry or nearly dry. Water the soil around the plant, not the leaves or the bulb. Avoid watering during the hottest part of the day as hot water can burn the plant.
   • Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. If the soil does not drain properly, the stagnant water could cause root rot.
3. Fertilize every one to two weeks. Make the bulb strong and healthy by adding a balanced fertilizer to the soil every two weeks. Use a water-soluble indoor plant fertilizer and apply according to the instructions. Do not give more than indicated.
   • During the summer you should see the plant develop new, darker leaves.
4. Proceed to the fall section when the weather turns cooler or the leaves change color. When the leaves start to turn yellow, which is normal, the plant will begin its dormancy period. This usually happens in the early fall. Expect this change in August or September if you live in the Northern Hemisphere and in March or April if you live in the Southern Hemisphere.

Part 3 of 4: Caring for the amaryllis in the fall

1. Reduce water gradually as the leaves die. The amaryllis should lose its foliage by the end of summer by the beginning of fall. When this process begins, you can start to water the plant a little less, but don't let the soil dry out completely yet.
2. Remove the dead leaves. Trim the yellow or brown leaves if they have withered. Cut them off next to the neck of the bulb. Leave live, green leaves on the plant.
3. Place the plant in a cool room indoors. Once the weather is cooler and most of the leaves have withered, put the amaryllis indoors. Place the pot in a cool, dark place with a temperature of 5–10 ºC, such as a cellar. If you don't have a suitable spot for the pot, you can carefully remove the bulb and roots from the soil and place it in the vegetable drawer of a refrigerator.
   • Always bring the amaryllis indoors before the first frost, which is usually at a night temperature of 0 ºC.
   • If you put the plant in the refrigerator, put it away no fruit in that fridge. Many fruits, especially apples, release chemicals that can sterilize your amaryllis bulb.
4. Leave the bulb alone for six to eight weeks. Leave the amaryllis in the cool, dark location for at least six weeks. Don't water it during this time, but do remove any leaves as they wither. This is the dormancy period of the bulb, the plant needs it to be able to flower again.
5. After six to eight weeks, move on to the next section. If you want the amaryllis to flower again on a certain date, such as Christmas, remove the bulb from the cool area at least six weeks before that day.

Part 4 of 4: Preparing for the new bloom

1. Check if the bulb is rotten. Reach below the surface of the earth and gently push into the sphere. If the bulb is soft, it may be rotten and unusable. If you are unsure, you can try to get the plant to flower again, but be sure to buy an extra amaryllis in case the original bulb dies.
2. Replace some or all of the soil. Like most plants, amaryllises grow better in a certain soil type, and after a period of one to three years, the nutrients may have disappeared from the soil. While it is not difficult to get an amaryllis to flower again, you may get a bigger, stronger and healthier plant if you use a special potting soil. Amaryllis roots can easily be damaged during the transplant, so if you are not used to repotting plants, it is probably better to replace only the top 1/2 inch of soil.
   • The best soil for an amaryllis consists of two parts loamy soil, without much sand or clay, one part perlite or gravel, and one part organic matter, such as decomposed manure, peat, leaf compost or composted bark.
   • An earthen pot is probably better than a plastic pot because the amaryllis can become very top heavy and a lightweight pot can easily tip over.
   • If you are going to replant amaryllis in your garden, remove dead leaves and peel off the layers from the bulb. Place the plant deep in the soil so that the top of the bulb remains uncovered. This will help reactivate the amaryllis.
3. Water the soil well after repotting. If you have placed the bulb in a new pot, water the soil well and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot. After the initial, thorough watering, keep the soil moist, but not soaked, as in summer and fall.
4. Place the plant in a relatively warm place. The ideal temperature for an amaryllis to flower is 13-18 ºC. Placing the plant in a warmer spot encourages growth, although too much heat can lead to weak and uncontrolled growth. Cooler temperatures can prevent or slow growth.
5. Wait for the plant to flower. Although a new amaryllis usually develops a flower before the leaves emerge, the sequence for re-blooming may be reversed. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, and expect your new flower, or blooms, about six weeks after you place the plant in a warmer area.

Tips

• Plant several amaryllis at different times, or fertilize them in stages if you want amaryllis flowers to be visible for a longer period of time.
• Amaryllises continue to bloom into late winter or spring, but if you've just bought a plant grown in another hemisphere, it can bloom according to the season in that part of the world. Once the plant has experienced a year in your climate, it should adapt.

Warnings

• Giving more than the recommended amount of fertilizer can harm or kill the plant.
• Amaryllis roots are fragile and can break and die during a transplant. Be careful when you put an amaryllis in a different pot or in new soil, and try to avoid touching the roots.