Content

• Steps
• Part 1 of 3: Planting a cactus
• Part 2 of 3: Caring for your cactus
• Part 3 of 3: Pruning and Pest Control
• Tips
• Warnings
• What do you need

The Epiphyllum cactus is native to Brazil. It grows on the sides and in the forks of trees under the canopy of rain forests. This type of cactus has beautiful flowers that usually open in the evening and bloom for several days. Growing Epiphyllum outside of its native habitat is fairly straightforward. It is enough to maintain the required temperature, lighting and weather conditions. The following steps will show you how to grow Epiphyllum.

Steps

Part 1 of 3: Planting a cactus

1. 1 Take cactus cuttings. You can buy them from a garden center or an online plant store.
   • Cuttings are taken from a mature stem, planted and used to grow a completely new plant.
   • If you already have a strong and healthy Epiphyllum, you can grow your own cuttings. Pick healthy leaves about 10 cm in length and cut them off at the base of the trunk. Repeat this process until you have the desired number of cuttings.
2. 2 Store the cuttings in a cool, dry place away from the sun for 10-14 days. Good places might be a garden shed, a bathroom, or a basement. Since the cactus is a succulent plant, the cuttings can be left for up to a month.
   • Keeping cuttings allows them to heal. The purpose of this storage is to allow the growths at the ends to get rougher. These growths will protect the cuttings from rotting.
   • If you have purchased cuttings and do not know exactly when they were cut, treat them for a week before planting.
3. 3 You need to grow cuttings three pieces in one 10 cm pot with a drainage hole in the middle. This space will be enough for the cactus to grow, and the drainage hole will prevent excessive moisture.
   • Plastic pots are preferred over terracotta pots because they allow the soil to retain moisture better for a longer period of time.
   • Select the fill mix for Epiphyllum. It consists of three parts of soil mixed with one part of a coarse-grained inorganic material such as perlite, also called spongy rock. The non-organic portion should be 1/3 - 1 1/4 cm in diameter. You can also add 1 - 1 1/2 tbsp. l. orchid bark on a pot.
   • Alternatively, you can plant the cuttings in pure perlite. However, once the cuttings take root, you will have to transplant them into the potting mix.
   • The potting mix should always be wet, but never wet. This will ensure healthy and fast growth.
4. 4 Refrain from watering the cuttings until they are well established. If you water the cuttings too early, they will rot.
   • Gently pull each stalk to check for rot. If you feel resistance, that's good, because it means the roots are sitting well. In this case, you can water them.
   • If the shoots come out easily and you see rot at the ends, you need to cut it off, cure the cuttings and plant again in the pot.

Part 2 of 3: Caring for your cactus

1. 1 The most suitable place for Epiphyllum is hanging containers in filtered sunlight.
   • Epiphyllum loves to grow in hanging containers, which provides a good base for plant pendulum growth. As an added bonus, the hanging container is not available for snails, which is enemy # 1 for the cactus.
   • A shady spot under a tree or under a canopy of fabric or plank will provide just the right amount of light. If the cactus grows in direct sunlight, it can burn. If there is too much shade, the cactus can become overly thick and will not bloom.In addition, the long stems will not be strong enough to support themselves and may collapse and be damaged.
   • If possible, choose walls or cornices that face east or north. This will contribute to better lighting.
   • Provide good air circulation, but protect the plant from storms and high winds. Hurricanes can cause hanging pots to wobble and long stems banging against each other and breaking.
2. 2 Water the cactus every few days or every day in hot weather. The soil should not be completely dry, but should never remain wet after watering.
   • Check the soil regularly to see if water needs to be added.
   • When you water, do so so that any excess water flows out of the drain holes. This washes out the soil and prevents the build-up of soluble salts.
3. 3 Fertilize the cactus lightly. Epiphyllum blooms best if you fertilize it regularly.
   • Fertilize your cactus every time you water it from May to late August. After this period, you can fertilize it every other time.
   • Only use approximately 1/3 or 1/2 of the fertilizer recommended on the label. Since cacti naturally grow in a relatively low nutrient environment, they do not need a lot of nutrients for healthy growth.
   • In winter, fertilize with low or no nitrogen fertilization. Use type 2-10-10 or 0-10-10. After the flowering season, fertilize with a balanced formula such as 10-10-10 or 5-5-5.
4. 4 Place the cactus in a warm place during cool weather. Frost and frequent temperatures in the region of +4.5 degrees Celsius are harmful to cacti.
   • Cover the cactus with a blanket or cardboard box for better protection. Epiphyllums should also not be left under hail, which may be large enough to break the stems, but the plant's body may form scars.
   • The most optimal time for planting cacti is from April to September. This period provides a warm, sunny atmosphere. But avoid direct sunlight, which can interfere with growth.
5. 5 Transplant the plant after 1 to 2 years. Changing the potting mix will replenish the supply of nutrients that will be absorbed by the cactus.
   • The size of each plant will dictate when it needs to be replanted. A plant that grows well and becomes too large for a pot will need to be transplanted into a larger pot, while a plant that remains small may remain in the same pot.
   • Use plastic pots 17.5 - 20 cm with the same drainage holes and potting mix.
   • Wrap newspaper over the stem of each plant to protect it from damage.
   • Hold the stem at the base, turn it over, and gently press down on the bottom of the pot to loosen the soil from the inside of the pot. Gently pull the pot away from the bottom and remove the old soil.
   • Examine the roots. If there are any signs of decay or any other damage, trim them as close to the plant as possible.
   • Don't be discouraged if you don't see the flowers. The epiphyllum will not bloom until it has grown to the size of a pot, which usually occurs 3 to 4 years after planting the cuttings.

Part 3 of 3: Pruning and Pest Control

1. 1 Treat your cuttings with a solution of bleach and water. This will prevent diseases or other infections that can affect growth.
   • Use a 10% bleach solution by mixing 1 part chlorine bleach with 1 part water.
2. 2 After the flower has faded, tear it off at the very base.
   • Pruning dead parts of the plant will not only improve its appearance, it will stimulate new growth and healthy flowering.
3. 3 Cut off all dead, diseased, and broken stems to the very base at the main stem. When you find a stem to remove, cut a straight cut just outside the base of the parent stem.
   • Disinfect the scissors immediately after trimming dead or diseased stems.This will keep the disease from spreading throughout the plant.
   • It is best to assume that any dead zone is the result of an illness. Disinfecting after each trim may require more bleach, but it will keep your cactus healthy and beautiful.
4. 4 Remove any long stems that upset the balance of the cactus. Cut them to the parent stem.
   • This is usually due to the location at the outer edges. Remove stems as needed until all sides of the plant are fairly uniform.
5. 5 Check your cactus for mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites. Snails are fairly easy to spot and remove (using bait), but the aforementioned pests require special measures to prevent infestation.
   • Mealybugs are white, waxy, and fluffy insects. They move slowly and are usually found in clusters along leaf veins or between thorns, on the underside of leaves and in hidden areas.
   • Scabbards resemble small fluffy domed shells. They attach to stems and leaves, but can be torn off.
   • Spider mite. They are difficult to see with the naked eye, but signs of infestation include streaks and small brown dots, especially on young shoots. If you press down on the affected area with white paper, the spider mite will look like dust.
   • These insects tend to suck the juice out of the stem, leaving weak, wrinkled, or wrinkled leaves. Severe infections can kill the plant. The first symptoms may include stickiness or black mold on or around the stem.
6. 6 Remove mealybugs with rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs. You can also spray a diluted alcohol solution with 1 part rubbing alcohol and 3 parts water.
   • Spraying is best suited for controlling spider mites and other pests in hard-to-reach places. Be careful as this can damage the epidermis of the cactus. Check a small area before spraying.
7. 7 Use insecticidal soap to coat the stem with it. Insecticidal soaps can be purchased at your local garden or flower shop.
   • This procedure can also damage the cactus. Since cacti have oils and waxes that make them susceptible to damage, it is best to use soap in moderation and test it on a small area first, before washing the entire cactus.
8. 8 An insecticide spray can leave serious contamination. Use insecticides such as neem or pyrethrin for visible pests. Systemic insecticides such as imidacloprid or acephate are best for pest control that is not readily available.
   • Check the label for how much you should use and whether long-term use is really safe.
9. 9 Isolate new cacti from infested ones. Remember that contamination is not just harmful, it is contagious and will spread from plant to plant until you stop it.
   • Check new plants carefully for the previously mentioned symptoms and pests. If you are absolutely sure that the plant is completely healthy, keep it away from infected plants. If you find pests on new plants, it may be best to simply eliminate them to save your time, money, and effort.

Tips

• Use temporary fertilizers to boost the flowering of your plants. In winter, use low or no nitrogen (2-10-10 or 0-10-10), and after flowering add nitrogen to the 10-10-10 or 5-5-5 mix. Use only about a third of the recommended dose on the label to mimic a low nutrient natural environment.
• Plant at least 3 cuttings of the same variety, 17.5 - 20 cm each. This will make them bloom faster.

Warnings

• Watch out for pests using insecticides to kill aphids, caterpillars, snails, slugs and worms.Use snail and slug bait and control minor damage by applying rubbing alcohol directly to the plant with a cotton swab.

What do you need

• Epiphyllum cuttings
• 10cm plastic pots
• Sealed mixture for Epiphyllum
• Perlite
• Orchid bark
• Hanging containers
• Water