Content

• Steps
• Method 1 of 13: Preparing to Train Your Dog
• Method 2 of 13: Applying General Training Principles
• Method 3 of 13: Teaching the Side by Side Command
• Method 4 of 13: Teaching the team "to me"
• Method 5 of 13: Teaching the Listen Command
• Method 6 of 13: Teaching the Sit Command
• Method 7 of 13: Teaching her to lie down
• Method 8 of 13: Teaching Your Dog to Wait Before Entering the House
• Method 9 of 13: Educating Your Dog for Good Eating Habits
• Method 10 of 13: Teaching the Take and Foo Commands
• Method 11 of 13: Teaching the Standing Command
• Method 12 of 13: Teaching the Voice Command
• Method 13 of 13: Training your dog for a kennel or aviary
• Tips
• Warnings
• DOG TRAINING LITERATURE TO HELP YOU

Thinking about getting a dog? Do you want your four-legged pet to be more well-mannered? Are you dreaming of training your dog to serve you instead of learning to serve it? Attending special classes led by a professional trainer is the best approach, but not everyone can afford them. These tips will be a good start to training your four-legged friend. There are many systems and approaches to dog training, so do your research and find out what is right for you and your dog.

Steps

Method 1 of 13: Preparing to Train Your Dog

1. 1 Choose a dog that suits your lifestyle. For several centuries of breeding dogs, in the modern world they are one of the most diverse species of animals on earth. While there is sure to be a dog to suit your lifestyle, not every dog ​​will suit your individual needs. For example, if you love to relax, you shouldn't get a Jack Russell Terrier, which is known for its constant barking and energy. Instead, you'd better think of a bulldog who prefers to lie curled up on the couch all day. Explore the nature and care requirements of different breeds. Ask dog owners about the characteristics of a particular breed.
   • Since most dogs have a lifespan of 10-15 years, having a four-legged friend is a long-term commitment. Make sure the temperament of the breed you choose suits your lifestyle.
   • If you don't have a family yet, consider whether babies will appear in your home in the next decade. Some breeds are not recommended to be kept in the house with small children.
2. 2 Do not be guided by ambition when choosing a dog. Be honest with yourself about the compatibility of your desired breed with your lifestyle. Don't get a dog that needs vigorous physical activity just because you need an excuse for yourself to start a healthier lifestyle. If you are unable to consistently engage with your energetic dog, then both of you will end up frustrated.
   • Write down a list of the breed's requirements and traits, and how you intend to meet those requirements.
   • If you have to make a significant effort to change your lifestyle, then you need to choose a different dog.
3. 3 Give your pet a practical nickname. He should easily learn to recognize his nickname, so you can attract attention during training. Actually, it should consist of a maximum of two syllables. The nickname should have a clear, solid sound that the dog can recognize. Nicknames such as “Buddy” or “Rover” or “BBC” have distinct sounds that set them apart from the normal flow of human speech that your dog hears.
   • Say the dog's name more often when playing with it, stroking it, training it, or wanting to get its attention.
   • If your dog looks at you when you call him by his name, it means that he has learned to recognize him.
   • To keep the dog focused on your attention when you say his name, make him have positive associations. Praise him if he responds to the name and give him a treat.
4. 4 Give yourself enough time to train. For training sessions, you should set aside 15-20 minutes twice a day. Puppies have very short attention spans and quickly become bored, just like young children.
   • These sessions aren't the only time you'll be training your dog though. In fact, training takes place all day long when interacting with your pet. He learns from you whenever you have an interaction.
   • If the owner allows the dog to misbehave with impunity during periods when training sessions are not taking place, it will develop bad habits.
5. 5 Prepare yourself psychologically for training. When working with your dog, you must be enthusiastic and optimistic. If the dog enjoys training, it will respond better. Remember, training is not about taming your pet, but about communicating with it.
6. 6 Find the right equipment. Aside from the treats, perhaps all you need to get started is a 1.8m leash and a smooth collar or martingale. Check with your trainer for other equipment, such as a bridle muzzle, harness, metal training collar, or other attachments. Puppies and small breeds usually do not require such harsh adaptations. Large dogs may temporarily need special devices to concentrate (for example, the "Promise Leader" halter).

Method 2 of 13: Applying General Training Principles

1. 1 Control your expectations and mood. Every day of training may not be perfect, but don't get discouraged and take it out on your dog. To boost your dog's learning ability and confidence, adjust your own behavior and attitudes.
   • If your dog becomes afraid of your bad mood, then he will not learn anything new. You will instill in her only caution and distrust towards you.
   • Training sessions and a good trainer will help you improve behavior, which will lead to your dog's success.
2. 2 Don't forget your dog's temperament. It is different for all dogs. Just like children, different breeds learn in different ways and at different rates. Some of them are stubborn and will challenge you with their behavior every time. Others will go out of their way to please you. You may need to adjust your training techniques to match your dog's temperament.
3. 3 Reward immediately. Dogs do not understand the remoteness of cause and effect. They learn quickly. You must praise or reward the dog within 2 seconds of achieving the desired behavior for it to take hold. If you do not do this right away, then she will not associate the reward with the action you asked her to perform.
   • In addition, you need to be convinced that your praise is timely enough to be accurate. Otherwise, you can reward behavior that is undesirable.
   • Imagine, for example, that you are teaching your dog the command to sit. She only sits for a few seconds, but during the time you praised and rewarded her, she got up again. In this case, you are rewarding for what she is worth, and not for the fact that she sat down.
4. 4 Consider clicker training. Clicker training is a way to give immediate rewards using a clicker device. Pressing a button can be faster than giving a treat or patting the dog's head. Thus, clicker training quickly reinforces positive behavior at the rate of learning in dogs. It works by forming a positive connection between the click sound and the reward. Gradually, the dog will consider the sound of the click itself as a sufficient reward for good behavior. The principle of clicker training can be used to teach any team.
   • Click the device button, and then immediately give the dog a treat. This will create a positive relationship with the click sound. Later, this sound will "denote" the behavior as correct and the dog will understand that it has done something right.
   • If the dog performs the desired action, play the clicking sound and immediately give him the treat.Once she is constantly doing this action, you can give him a command name. Use the clicker to start linking commands and actions together.
   • For example, before you start teaching your dog the command to sit, give a click, a treat, and praise when you find it sitting. If she starts sitting down just to get a treat, start saying the word "sit" so that she accepts this position. Combine this with a click sound to reward her. Eventually she will realize that sitting down in response to the “sit” command will bring her a click reward.
5. 5 Be consistent. Your dog will not understand what you want from him if there is no consistency in his environment. All people who live with the dog must understand and participate in the achievement of training goals. For example, if you want to teach your dog not to jump at people, do not allow children to let the dog jump on them. This will negate all training.
   • Make sure everyone is applying the exact commands that the dog learns during training. The dog does not know the human language and cannot understand the difference between "sit" and "sit down". Using synonymous terms will only confuse her.
   • Since the dog cannot make a clear connection between one command and an action, its reaction to the command will be ambiguous.
6. 6 Always reward successful performance and good behavior with praise and sometimes a humble treat. Small treats will motivate your dog to learn. The treat should be small, tasty and easy to chew. It should not interrupt the training session or quickly fill the dog's stomach.
   • See how long it takes to chew on a hard treat versus a half-baked one, such as a pre-made Bil Jack or Zuke's Mini Naturals. Treats about the size of the head of a pencil eraser will be enough to convey a command, but won't keep you waiting long for your dog to eat it.
7. 7 Use high value treats as needed. When teaching difficult and important commands, use a “high value” treat to raise the dog's victory reward. These include freeze-dried liver, fried chicken breast slices, or turkey sausage slices.
   • As you train your team, slowly remove the valuable treats and reintroduce them as needed to advance the training. But always praise her.
8. 8 Train on an empty stomach. For a few hours before training, do not feed the dog as much as usual. The more the dog craves a treat, the more he will focus on completing the task to get it.
9. 9 Always end your class on a positive note. Even if the training session was unsuccessful and the dog was unable to learn the new command, end it with something you can praise the dog for. When she finishes her training with a command she’s already mastered, the last thing she remembers is your love and praise.
10. 10 Don't encourage barking. If your dog barks at you when you don't feel like it, just ignore it until it stops and then praise it. They sometimes bark to get your attention, although this is also due to despair.
    • Do not throw a ball or toy. This will teach the dog that if it barks, it will get what it wants.

Method 3 of 13: Teaching the Side by Side Command

1. 1 Take your dog for a regular walk on a leash. This is important not only for training, but also for physical and mental health. Depending on what breed your dog is, it may need to do a lot of physical activity in order for it to be healthy and well.
2. 2 Do not encourage stretching. Most dogs will pull on the leash as they learn to go for a walk. If she starts to pull, stop immediately. Don't take a step until the dog comes up to you and focuses on you.
3. 3 Change directions. An even more effective method is to walk in the opposite direction and get the dog to walk with you. Once she's got it, praise and treat her.
4. 4 Make it interesting to walk alongside. A dog's natural desire is to chart its own route and explore its surroundings. You need to make walking next to you look more attractive to her than that. When changing directions, speak in an enthusiastic voice and compliment generously if she comes back and walks alongside.
5. 5 Combine the action with a voice command. Once the dog is constantly walking around, you can name this action, such as "near" or "walking".

Method 4 of 13: Teaching the team "to me"

1. 1 Understand the meaning of the command. The command "come to me" is used whenever the dog needs to come to you. This command is potentially vital as it will prevent the dog from escaping if it breaks free.
2. 2 Prepare your dog to teach the "come to me" command. You should always start training indoors (or in your own fenced yard) where there is no distraction. Attach a 1.8m leash to your dog's collar so you can keep his attention and keep him from running away.
3. 3 Get the dog's attention. You should make her run to you. You can do this with high-pitched sounds associated with play, toys, joyful clapping, or simply by opening your arms. It can also help you run a short distance into it and stop, as dogs usually start running after you.
   • Use praise and your enthusiastic voice to stimulate movement towards you.
4. 4 Praise immediately. When the dog is near you, click the clicker, praise with your “satisfied voice” and give a treat.
5. 5 Combine the action with a voice command. As soon as the dog realizes that he will be rewarded for coming up to you, start giving a voice command "to me". If she responds to the command, reinforce it with praise, adding to the words "good", "well done!"
6. 6 Go to public places for training. Since the “come to me” command will help save the dog's life, he must learn to respond to it, even if there are many distractions around. Transfer your classes from home or your backyard to a public park. There will be more objects, sounds, and smells that require her attention.
7. 7 Increase the length of the leash. You started out with a 1.8m leash, but you want your dog to run closer to you from a greater distance than this.
8. 8 Master off-leash training in a fenced-in environment. This will teach the dog to run from long distances.
   • Ask someone to help you with off-leash training. You can play ping-pong and take turns calling your dog.
9. 9 Give huge rewards. Since this command is so important, the reward you choose for doing it must be unusual. Responding to the command "to me" should be the highlight of one of the dog days.
10. 10 Don't give this command a negative connotation. No matter how upset you are, never reinforce the “to me” command with anger. Even if you are furious that the dog has slipped out of the leash and runs freely for five minutes, praise him generously when he finally responds to the command "to me." Remember that you are praising for the last action, and the last was that she came up to you.
    • Never punish, yell, jerk, or in any way turn the action of approaching yourself into something bad. With one unsuccessful action, you can cross out years of training.
    • After the command "come to me", never do anything that does not please your dog.While you may be tempted to use this command when you want to bathe it, trim your nails, or clean your ears, “to me” should always involve positive emotions.
    • If you have to do something that your dog will not like, just go and bring the dog yourself, instead of giving him a command. Praise your dog along the way for his calmness and for completing the assignment. You can of course use the treats.
11. 11 Go back to the main one. If you are intimidated when the dog runs freely and does not respond to the command "to me", return to training on a leash. Continue to practice on a leash until she starts to consistently execute the command "to me".
    • Take your time to teach this command. This is too important a command to be done without enthusiasm.
12. 12 Reinforce training throughout the dog's life. Since this behavior is very important, it should be reinforced throughout life. When you hike off a leash with your dog, keep treats in your pocket to strengthen your team.
    • You also need to train your dog to command so that it knows that it doesn't need to be very close to you all the time. It can be expressed with something like "walk", but the point is that the dog can do whatever he wants and not follow the commands until you give him one of them.
13. 13 Maintain interest. You should not tell your dog that every time it comes to you, the fun will come to an end, it will be put on a leash and taken back home. Otherwise, you will come to the fact that she will execute the command "to me" less stable and without pleasure. Therefore, call out to the dog, praise it when it comes running, and let it go "free" so that it can play.
14. 14 Train your dog to grip the collar. No verbal commands should be attached to this. When the dog approaches you, grab it by the collar so that it gets used to it and does not grow shy when every time it feels like someone is touching its collar.
    • If you are bending over her to reward her for following the command “come to me,” pat her neck and grab her collar as you hand out the treat.
    • Sometimes, but not always, when you hold onto the collar, the leash should be fastened.
    • In addition, you can always fasten a short leash and let go again "free". The tether should mean that soon it will be interesting, and we will reach the place. There is no room for harsh punishments.

Method 5 of 13: Teaching the Listen Command

1. 1 Understanding the purpose of the "listen" command. Also known as the “look at me” command, the “listen” command is one of the first things to teach your dog. You will use it to grab the dog's attention in order to give him the next command or direction. Some owners prefer to call the dog's name instead of giving the command "listen." This is especially useful if you have more than one dog. This way, every dog ​​will know when you are getting his attention.
2. 2 Prepare a handful of treats. These can be store-bought dog treats or sausages cut into small pieces. Pick a treat your dog loves and will try to get.
3. 3 Stand next to the dog. But don't pay any attention to her. If she reacts to your presence, stand still and look away until she loses interest.
4. 4 In a calm but firm voice, say "listen." If you are used to drawing her attention with a nickname, then instead of the commands "listen" or "look at me", say the name of the dog. Say it as loudly and in the same tone as if you called out to the person to draw their attention.
5. 5 Don't raise your voice to get her attention. Maintain a loud, loud tone for "life-threatening" situations, such as a dog running behind a fence or getting off the leash.If you rarely raise your voice, you will have your dog's undivided attention when you need to scream. But if you always “yell” at your dog, he will gradually start to ignore the cry and turn off his attention. The scream will no longer be seen by her as something that requires special attention.
   • Dogs have excellent hearing - much better than ours. A cool trick with this command is to see how quietly you can whisper and make the dog react. People will mistake you for a "dog interpreter" if you can only whisper the dog to obey commands.
6. 6 Reward your dog immediately for the desired response. As soon as the dog stops doing what he was doing and looks at you, praise him and give him a treat. If using clicker training, give a click before praising or treating a treat.
   • Remember that your reaction should be immediate. The sooner you reward him, the faster the dog will begin to understand the connection between command, action and reward.
7. 7 Stop giving the treat over time. Once the dog has mastered the command, you should not give him a treat for doing it. However, you should still use the clicker or verbally praise the dog.
   • It is very important to wean your dog off the treats, as he will always wait to receive them. Ultimately, you will only have a dog following commands if you offer food to it.
   • Praise the dog regularly, even after he has mastered the command, but spoil the dog only from time to time. This is a way to reinforce them in the canine vocabulary.
   • Once he has mastered the command, the goodies can be used to make actions run faster or more accurately. He soon realizes that the treats are given after the command or action that follows "listen."

Method 6 of 13: Teaching the Sit Command

1. 1 Have the dog stand up. The purpose of "sitting" is to get the dog to go from standing to sitting, not just keep sitting. Walk up to or away from the dog to get it into a standing position.
2. 2 Get in her field of vision. Stand directly in front of the dog so that his attention is focused on you. Let her see that you are holding the treat with your dominant hand.
3. 3 Focus your dog's attention on the treat. Start holding the treat on your side. Raise your hand with the treat in front of the dog's nose to smell the scent, then to a level above his head.
   • When you hold the treat over her head, most dogs will naturally crouch down to get a better view of the treat.
4. 4 Give her a treat right away and compliment her. Stick to a clicker-treat / praise order, or treat-and-praise only. Say "well done, sit" if the dog is performing the action you are teaching. She will do it slowly at first, but increasing the treat and praise will speed up her reaction.
   • Make sure you don't praise her until she really sits down. If you give praise halfway through a command, your dog will think this is what you want him to do.
   • Also make sure not to praise her for getting up again, or you will teach her this action instead of sitting.
5. 5 If your dog doesn't sit down with a treat, you can use a leash and collar. Stand next to the dog, looking in the same direction. Press lightly on the back of the collar to nudge her into a sitting position.
   • You can even get the dog to sit down by gently nudging the dog's hind legs. While doing this, gently tilt the dog back with the collar.
   • As soon as she sits down, immediately praise and reward her.
6. 6 Don't repeat the command. You want your dog to react the first time, not the second, not the third, and not the fourth. If the dog does not perform an action within 2 seconds after your command, secure the command with a leash.
   • When you begin to train your dog, never give a command that you cannot reinforce.Otherwise, you run the risk of teaching the dog to ignore you, because there is no completion on your part and the commands do not make sense.
   • Create a pleasant experience for the dog with praise and consistency.
7. 7 Encourage the dog to sit down on its own. Observe those times during the day when the dog sits down on its own. Praise this behavior and pretty soon you will have a dog sitting down to focus instead of rushing or barking at you.

Method 7 of 13: Teaching her to lie down

1. 1 Get your dog's attention. Grab some treat or toy and find your dog. Keep the toy or treat in sight to keep your dog focused on you.
2. 2 Use a treat or toy to get your dog to lie down. To do this, move the treat or toy to the ground in front of the dog, between the front paws. Her head will follow her, and her torso will also follow her.
3. 3 Praise her right away. When your dog's belly is on the ground, give him a generous amount of praise and give him a treat or toy. Also be precise with your praise. Praising halfway through a command is what you teach your dog.
4. 4 Increase the distance. When she learns to perform an action with the promise of a treat, move a little further. The downward gesture will be your flat hand — palm down — moved down in front of you at waist level to the side.
   • As soon as the dog has solidified the performance of the “down” action, enter the voice command “down” or “lie down”.
   • Always encourage her immediately when her belly is on the ground.
   • Dogs read body language well and learn hand gestures fairly quickly.
5. 5 Increase the “lying down” time. As soon as the dog becomes more trouble-free "lying", pause for a few seconds before praising and treating to force him to hold this position.
   • If she jumps up to get a treat, do not give it to her, otherwise you will reward her for the action that she performed last before the treat.
   • Just start over and the dog will know that you want him to be on the ground all the time, provided you are consistent.
6. 6 Don't lean over your dog. Once the dog has picked up the command, stand up straight when giving it. If you hover over it, then the dog will lie down only when you bend over it. You should work so that you can gradually get the dog to lie down from the other corner of the room.

Method 8 of 13: Teaching Your Dog to Wait Before Entering the House

1. 1 Begin “waiting outside the door” training at an early age. It is important to teach your dog to respect the threshold. You should not let the dog run out the door every time it is opened - this can be dangerous for him. There is no need to train him every time you enter the premises. But you should make the best use of the early training opportunities for your puppy.
2. 2 Place the leash on your dog. It should be on a short leash so you can change direction from a short distance.
3. 3 Go to the door. Move the dog next to you on a leash.
4. 4 Before you step over, give the command "wait". If the dog tries to follow you when you enter the door, use the leash to stop its forward movement. Try again.
5. 5 Praise her if she is waiting. When she realizes that you want her to stay at the door and not walk in with you, generously praise her for "waiting well."
6. 6 Teach her to sit on the doorstep. If the door is closed, you can even teach your dog to sit down as soon as you touch the doorknob with your hand. Then she will wait for the door to open and cross the threshold until you let her in. For safety reasons, this training should be done first on a leash.
7. 7 Give a separate command to make her go through the doorway. You can use "come to me" or "walk". Regardless of the command used, it should be the only one that allows the dog to enter your home.
8. 8 Increase the distance. Train your dog to stay on the doorstep while you do something on the other side. You can take out the mail or take out the trash before returning and praising it. The point is that you don't always call her over the threshold to run up to you. You can also go back to it.

Method 9 of 13: Educating Your Dog for Good Eating Habits

1. 1 Do not feed your dog from the table. This will only put her on the path of begging. Ask her to go to her bed or kennel and stay there and not whine while you and your family eat.
   • When you are done with your meal, you can prepare dog food afterwards.
2. 2 While you prepare food for your dog, have him wait patiently. There is nothing more annoying than a dog jumping and barking while you try to prepare food for it. Instead, use the command “wait,” which she learned in the training process of waiting in front of the entrance, so that she will wait outside the room where she is being fed.
   • When everything is ready, the dog should "sit" and "wait" until you put his food on the ground.
   • Stand up and wait a few seconds before giving the permissive command. You can use “walk” or come up with a new command to indicate meal times, such as “eat” or “yum-yum”.
   • Gradually, she will learn to sit on her own as soon as she sees her food bowl.

Method 10 of 13: Teaching the Take and Foo Commands

1. 1 Understanding commands. The take command is used when you want your dog to take what you are offering him into his mouth.
2. 2 Let your dog play with the toy. At the same time, give her the voice command "take". When she takes the toy into her mouth, praise her for the action. (Plus, she gets a toy so she can play!)
3. 3 Moving to less useful items. It is easy for a dog to learn the “take” command if the subject is so interesting! Once she has mastered the connection between command and action, move on to boring subjects. Examples would be newspapers, light bags, or whatever you want her to carry.
4. 4 Combine the take command training with the fu command. As soon as she picks up the toy, use the "fu" command so that she gives it back to you. When she lets her go, give the treat and praise, and then start again with the “take” command. You shouldn't let your dog know that every time he lets go of the toy it won't be interesting.
   • Don't start playing tug of war with your dog. When you pull, the dog will pull even harder.

Method 11 of 13: Teaching the Standing Command

1. 1 Understand the meaning of the "stand" command. The importance of the commands "sit" and "wait" seems obvious, but at first you may not understand why "standing" is an important skill in dog training. You will not be using the "stand" command daily, but you will need it throughout the dog's life. For example, a dog that can stand calmly is the ideal patient in a veterinary clinic or a client of a dog hair salon.
2. 2 Prepare for a training session. Take her favorite toy or a handful of treats to focus her attention and reward him for following the command. To teach the “stand” command, first command it “down” or “lie down”. In order to receive her toy or treat, she must move from a prone position to a standing position.
3. 3 Get the dog's attention. You should convince her to take a standing position by paying attention to a toy or treat. Hold the toy or treat in front of its face at nose level.
   • If she sits down expecting to earn a reward by doing so, try again by placing the toy or treat just below.
4. 4 Encourage the dog to follow your hand. Align your hand with the palm down.If using a treat, hold it with your thumb against your palm. Start by keeping your hand in front of her nose and move a few centimeters away from her. The idea is that the dog will stand up following your hand.
   • You may need to use your other hand to push from the bottom of your hips at first to get it right.
5. 5 Praise right away. As soon as she gets upright, praise and treat. Although you have not yet started using the voice command "stand," you can insert it by complimenting "well done, stand!"
6. 6 Add the voice command "stand". First, you will train your dog to stand up by watching the hand in which you hold his toy or treat. When she has mastered this concept, begin to include the command "stand" in the training session.
7. 7 Combine the "stand" command with other commands. There are many ways to combine commands. After the dog is “standing,” you could add “wait” or “stop” commands if you want the dog to stand for a longer time. Alternatively, you can continue to sit or lie down to do some of the dog exercises and gradually increase the distance between you and the dog. Over time, the dog will carry out these commands from another corner of the room.

Method 12 of 13: Teaching the Voice Command

1. 1 Understanding the team. The voice command teaches your dog to bark in response to your voice signal. This command itself is unusual. But in combination with the "quiet" command, it will help control barking problems in overly vociferous dogs.
   • Be extremely careful when teaching this command. For inexperienced trainers, the training of the voice command sometimes gets out of hand. They end up with their dog barking at them all the time.
2. 2 Train with a clicker. When teaching the command "voice", it is necessary to immediately reward, even more than with others. By clicking the clicker and giving the treat several times in a row, you will teach the dog to associate the click sound with the reward.
   • Continue this clicker training until your dog sees a reward in the sound of the click itself. The treat will come later.
3. 3 Find out when the dog barks the most. This rate varies from dog to dog, so you need to observe your specific pet. She's most likely to bark when you don't give her a treat, when someone knocks on the door, or when the doorbell rings.
4. 4 Recreate the initiating factor. Once you figure out what makes the dog bark, do this in front of the dog. The bottom line is to encourage her to bark on her own, then praise her for that action.
   • You will see how dangerous it can be in the hands of an inexperienced trainer.
   • Therefore, teaching the command "voice" is slightly different from other commands. You will be connecting the voice command from the beginning. This way, the dog will not think that you are praising him for his natural behavior.
5. 5 Use the verbal command "voice" from the beginning. As soon as the dog barks for the first time, give a verbal command, click the clicker and give him a treat.
   • Until then, other teams first taught the action, then a command was added to precede the action.
   • However, learning the voice command in this way too easily gets out of hand.
   • Thus, it is better to associate a voice command with an action already in the process. Never reward your dog for barking without a voice command.
6. 6 Combine the voice command with the quiet command. If your dog barks too much on its own, then it will help in your situation so that you do not think of teaching her "voice". However, if you teach her "voice", you can also teach her the command "quiet". While you may not need a “voice” command for a dog barking too much, you definitely need a “quiet” command.
   • Once the dog has mastered the "voice", start using the "quiet" command in the training sessions.
   • Give the command "voice".
   • However, instead of rewarding "voice" (barking), wait for the dog to stop barking.
   • Give the voice command "quiet".
   • If the dog is silent, reward “quiet” (not barking) with a click and a treat.

Method 13 of 13: Training your dog for a kennel or aviary

1. 1 Understanding the meaning of kennel training. You may find it cruel to lock your dog in an enclosure for several hours. But dogs, by their nature, are nest animals, so closed spaces do not oppress them as much as we do. In fact, dogs trained to kennel will seek a source of comfort in their cage.
   • Aviary training is a useful way to control your dog's behavior when unattended for extended periods of time.
   • For example, many owners leave their dogs in the enclosure when they go to bed or leave the house.
2. 2 Start accustoming yourself to the aviary from a young age. While adult dogs can be taught to enjoy the kennel too, it is easier to teach a young puppy.
   • However, if your puppy is a large breed, do not accustom him to a small aviary in which you think he will grow.
   • Dogs will not relax where they sleep or rest, so you need an appropriately sized crate.
   • If you are using a crate that is too large, the dog may urinate in the far corner, as there is so much room.
3. 3 Create a cozy environment in the kennel. When you first let your dog into the enclosure, do not immediately lock the door and do not isolate it in it. You want your dog to feel positive about the crate so that he can enjoy spending time there.
   • When you begin the kennel training process, place it somewhere among the household items. The idea is to make the enclosure a part of social life, not a place of isolation.
   • Place a soft blanket and some of the dog's favorite toys inside the cage.
4. 4 Motivate her to enter the cage. After you've created a cozy crate, use a treat to lure the dog inside. Place a little in front of the door first, so that the dog can examine the exterior of the cage. Then, place the treats right outside the door, so he sticks his head in to reach them. As he becomes more comfortable, move the treat further and further into the cage.
   • Continue this until the dog enters the crate without hesitation.
   • Always accompany cage training with a "pleasant voice."
5. 5 Feed your dog in the aviary. Once she is comfortable entering the enclosure for treats, reinforce positive associations with food.
   • Place the dog bowl where it is comfortable to eat. If the dog is still worried, you can place it right outside the door.
   • As she becomes more comfortable over time, move the dog bowl further into the cage.
6. 6 Start closing the door behind it. After being treated and fed, you will find that the dog becomes more and more adapted to being in a cage. But she also needs to learn how to cope with the fact that the door is closed.
   • Start by closing the door while eating, when the dog is too distracted by the food to notice what is happening.
   • Close the door for short periods of time, increasing it as the dog becomes more comfortable.
7. 7 Don't encourage your dog to whine. When a puppy whines, it may sound cute, but when an adult dog whines, it can freak you out. If your puppy whines inconsolably, you may have left him in the cage for too long. However, you cannot release him from there until he stops whining. Remember - each reward reinforces the dog's last action, which was the whine in this case.
   • Instead, release the dog as soon as it stops whining.
   • Next time, if you close the enclosure door, leave the dog inside for a shorter time.
8. 8 Make your dog comfortable while in the crate for a long time. If your puppy barks pitifully when alone in a cage, bring it to your bedroom at night. Place a ticking clock or white noise generator nearby to help the puppy fall asleep. Make sure he has already done his business on the street and does not need to urinate or go out in a big way.
   • Small puppies should be caged in their room overnight so you can hear if they are asked to go outside in the middle of the night.
   • Otherwise, they will be forced to stain in the cage.

Tips

• When using verbal commands, the voice must be firm. If you mean to sit, then speak with meaning. Do not keep repeating the command over and over again, hoping that the dog will eventually obey the command. Reinforce the command for 2-3 seconds if not followed, then praise the dog. You don't want to become one of those people that you see repeating "sit" 20 or more times until the dog sits down. You want her to sit on the first team, not on the 20th.
• Don't let your dog bite you, even playfully. This sets a bad precedent and it will be difficult to break the habit. Dangerous, aggressive dogs will need special training with an experienced trainer. In some cases, it will be necessary to involve a behavioral veterinarian. On no account should you adopt an aggressive dog without proper training. It is very dangerous.
• Don't let your dog do something bad too many times as it will become a habit.
• Remember, every dog ​​is different. One may learn at a slower pace than the other, and this is normal. There are no unlearned dogs!
• Remember, dogs communicate differently from humans. It is up to you whether you learn their "language" and not vice versa.
• Do not let your dog lean on you when you are standing or sitting. This is not a sign that she loves you. This is a sign of dominance. The dog is encroaching on your space. You are the leader. Stand up and let your knee or leg push her out of your space. Praise the dog for getting up. Command him to lie down or go to his cage if you need to control your personal space more effectively.
• When using gestures, make sure they are unique and distinct for the dog to see and distinguish. There are standard training gestures for basic commands such as sit, lie down, stand, and so on. When in doubt, check with a trainer, or consult the web or books for a more complete understanding of how to use body language.
• Be consistent. Make sure to apply the same command and hand gesture each time. It only takes 10-15 minutes a day.
• If the dog is out of control, another way to correct the behavior is to isolate it from the rest of the herd. Place it in a cage or kennel and ignore it. Separation from the herd in the language of the dog means: "Your behavior is unacceptable and we do not like it." The dog will understand the message. She may whine and howl, but you must ignore her. Consider this a “break” for the dog. When she is quiet and calm, let her get out of the cage. Remember to keep your dog busy to help manage energy levels. A great way to tire your dog is to play "fetch".
• Talk to your dog pleasant solid voice. Your usual “indoor speaking” style is perfect for this.
• Praise your dog often and generously.
• Dog training takes a lot of patience. Choosing the wrong breed for your skill level or lifestyle can lead to frustration. If you find that you have made the wrong choice, ask the experts for guidance. You may need to find a new home for your dog. Call your local rescue organization or veterinary clinic.Don't wait for you and your dog to get hurt. If you just don't have the patience, then hire yourself a reliable one-on-one trainer. Nobody is "born" as a trainer without learning how to do it.
• Don't be cruel to your dog or hit him. If you hit the dog out of anger, then it will only learn to be afraid of you.
• Clean up after your dog if he shits in foreign territory or in a public place. Thus, you will be sure that others, as well as you, admire your cute dog.
• Obedience training is not really needed by the dog ... but by YOU. This training teaches you how to communicate so that the dog does what you want in a way that he understands. If you send your dog to train with another person, he will learn to communicate with that person, not with you. Take the time to learn how to train your dog, and don't shift the responsibility away from yourself to someone else. In some cases, you may need to get your dog to learn the basics from someone else. But then, the trainer has to work with you AND your dog. This will ensure that you can continue training at home. Ask the trainer to "adjust" for you and your dog so that each of you maintains the proper level.
• If the dog picks up an object that does not belong to him, command: "Ugh!"
• Try not to lose your temper if the dog does not follow the rules.

Warnings

• Use a collar and leash that is the right size for your dog. Collars that are too loose or too tight can cause injury.
• See your veterinarian regularly and get vaccinated. You must also comply with licensing requirements on time and when you reach adulthood, neuter or neuter the dog in a timely manner.
• Regular exercise for your dog will save him from destructive behavior in the home. Dogs get bored. When they get bored, they find ways to "entertain" themselves. Entertainment can include chewing on your favorite shoes, ruining furniture, or barking incessantly. To avoid this problem, take her for walks regularly (preferably twice a day). And it's good for you too! "A tired dog is a good dog." The amount of exercise to fatigue varies from dog to dog.
• Having a dog is almost as much a responsibility as having a baby. If you are not ready for this, do not start a dog until you do your research and make changes to let the dog into your life.

DOG TRAINING LITERATURE TO HELP YOU

• "Don't Shoot the Dog" by Karen Prior
• "Getting Started: Clicker Training for Dogs" by Karen Prior
• The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
• "25 Dumb Dog Owner Mistakes" by Janine Adams
• "The Art of Raising a Puppy" The Monks of New Skeet
• "How to Become Your Dog's Best Friend" The Monks of New Skeet
• “A Mentally Healthy Dog: How to Shape, Train, and Change the Behavior of a Four-Legged Friend” by Gale. Clark