How to Plant an Orange Tree

Author: Monica Porter
Date Of Creation: 17 March 2021
Update Date: 1 July 2024
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How to Plant Citrus Trees From Start to Finish (COMPLETE GUIDE) 🍊
Video: How to Plant Citrus Trees From Start to Finish (COMPLETE GUIDE) 🍊

Content

Today, orange trees are grown all over the world for its delicious and nutritious fruit. Alternatively, you can grow them indoors or in a greenhouse if you live in a warm climate. The best way to grow a healthy orange tree is to buy saplings or seedlings. However, you can plant orange seeds sown directly on the ground if you want to enjoy the feeling of growing plants every day.

Steps

Method 1 of 3: Growing oranges with seeds

  1. Understand growing seedling issues. Although you can plant an orange tree this way, it will be susceptible to infection and other problems. It can also take 4 to 15 years for the tree to bear fruit for the first time. The saplings purchased at the nursery are propagated from two types: a plant grown for healthy roots and other attributes, plus a branch of a tree grafted onto the first tree. The branches are taken from a tree that produces many high quality fruit, and because they are mature, the tree will bear fruit a year or two after you buy it. That said, continue with the following steps if you are ready to grow your own orange.

  2. Select the seeds before they dry again. Carefully cut an orange without cutting the seeds inside or using only the seeds that are intact. Choose seeds that are free of cracks or fades. The seeds are flattened and dried (usually after being removed from the orange for a long time) inability to grow.
    • Note that some varieties are seedless oranges. You need to ask to buy oranges with seeds.

  3. Wash the seeds. Wash the seeds under running water and gently scrub away any loose spots or cloves on the seeds. Be careful not to spoil the seeds, especially those that have already begun to sprout.
    • No need to dry the seeds afterwards. Keeping them wet will facilitate better germination.

  4. Make seeds sprout faster by keeping them moist. Assuming you are using seeds that have not yet begun to sprout, you can shorten the time it takes to get there by keeping them in a humid environment. You can keep wet seeds in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 30 days before planting, or simply keep them in the planting soil in moisture, but not submerged.
    • If you use the dried seeds, they are in a dormant state and can take months to germinate or never sprout.
    • Professional orange growers soak certain slow-sprout orange varieties in gibberellic acid before planting to speed up germination even more. This is usually not necessary when you are growing home plants with seeds, and can easily be counterproductive if the wrong amount of seeds is used in your orange varieties.
  5. Plant each seed in a fine, well-drained pot of potting mix. Grow them about 1/2 inch (1.2cm) below the surface.Orange trees aren't too fussy about the type of pot you choose, but it's important that the water doesn't cover the seeds (and the roots later) and cause rot. The water needs to drain through the pot quickly as you water. Alternatively, you can buy citrus pots added to the mix, which will increase the ability to hold nutrients and create more acidic (low pH) environments in which citrus thrives in.
    • Remember to place a wooden board or other object underneath the pot to catch the running water.
    • If the soil drains it, mix more hardwood bark. This makes the soil less compact, allowing for faster drainage.
  6. Keep the soil in full sunlight. Whether indoors or outdoors, soil does best at temperatures between 75º and 85ºF (24º-29ºC). Sunlight is the best way to warm your soil with precision, since a radiator can dry out the soil too quickly. If you live in a cold or low sun area, you may need to keep your orange tree in a hot greenhouse or conservatory, even before it germinates.
  7. Add a balanced fertilizer every two weeks (optional). If you want to speed up plant growth, adding a small amount of fertilizer to the soil every 10-14 days will help the plant grow well. To get the best results, you will need to adjust your choices. Fertilizer to the level of nutrients in your soil, should be on the label of the potting medium if you buy it. If not, choose a balanced fertilizer with the relative amount of even nutrients.
    • Stop adding fertilizer once the plant has grown into a sapling. Follow the instructions for an alternate or subtree. It does not need additional fertilizer until the second year.
  8. Remove the third weakest sprouts when the seeds germinate. Citrus seeds have an unusual ability to produce exact clones of the mother plant, called nu-cellar plants. These are typically the two fastest growing sprouts, while a "genetically" secondary seedling the three tend to be smaller and grow slowly. Cut off this weak third sprouts to produce a tree of the right quality for the brood bred. advertisement

Method 2 of 3: Caring for a seedling or seedling

  1. Plant the plant in a pot slightly larger than its stump whenever needed.Whether you just bought a plant or have grown it for years, you should plant it in a place where the roots are easy and Comfortable fit, but not on a much larger than the original ball.
    • The best time to repot your orange tree is in the spring, before it has put a lot of health into growth.
    • Cut any dead or damaged roots before planting. First disinfect the knife by boiling it or rubbing it with alcohol to reduce the chance of transmitting disease to the plant.
    • Wrap soil gently around the roots to remove pockets of air. The upper roots should end just below the surface of the soil.
  2. If growing outdoors, choose a windbreak area with plenty of space and use existing land.If you live in a warm climate like Florida or California, you can plant orange trees outdoors.
    • Choose an area where the saplings will be protected from wind.
    • Such as near a wall or a large tree blocking it. However, keep the orange tree at least 12 feet (3.7) away from major obstacles, especially plants other than competing root systems.
    • Orange trees can grow to 10 feet (3m) wide, so choose a location of at least 5 feet (1.5m) of roadways and footpaths.
  3. Dwarfs may require as little as 6 feet (1.8m) of space between them, but you should check your range's specific requirements, or allow more space if you're not sure where it is. is a tall tree.
    • Poke a hole just deep enough to cover the roots. Never bury the orange tree too deeply, or it could die. Use the soil that you dug up to pack around the roots again, not a potting mix that can hold too much water and cause rot.
  4. Keep your plants in full sun and warm temperatures. Keep an eye on seedlings, as they are always more vulnerable to fire or other hazards than mature plants, but orange trees should do best in the whole sun. The best temperature for oranges is between 75ºand 90ºF (24-32ºC). They will do poorly at spring or summer temperatures below 45ºF (7ºC), and depending on the variety can die at 32ºF (0ºC). or below. temperatures above 100ºF (38ºC) for several days will likely cause leaf damage.
    • If your mature tree is exposed to extreme heat, hang a shade or sheet over the tree until the temperature drops below 100ºF (38ºC).
    • Move your orange tree indoors before frost occurs. Citrus trees are more susceptible to frost than heat, although some varieties may be able to survive a mild frost time.
  5. Water the plants together often, but heavily. Orange trees, once grown into saplings rather than sprouts, prefer to be dried from the soil before being watered again. Wait until the soil feels dry when you make a deep pit with your fingers, then water a lot until the soil is soaked. A large plant should be left alone until the soil dries up to 6 inches (15 cm) below the surface.
    • Usually, plants can be watered once to twice a week, but this will vary depending on temperature, humidity, and the amount of light received. Use your judgment and water more often during the hot, dry season, although normally you should avoid watering the orange trees when the sun is in the sky.
    • If your tap water is hard (heavy minerals, leave warm white scales or tubes), use filtered water or rain water instead of letting the orange tree use this water.
  6. Fertilize carefully with age. Adding fertilizer or manure at the right time gives the plants all the nutrients they need to grow and produce fruit, but improper use can burn the plant or cause other harm. Use a special citrus fertilizer, or any fertilizer that is particularly high in nitrogen. Follow the instructions for applying fertilizer or compost:
    • 2-3 year old seedlings should have two tablespoons (30ml) of high-grade nitrogen fertilizer spread under the stump 3 or 4 times a year, just before watering. Alternatively, mix a gallon (4L) of premium quality compost into the soil, but only in the fall when the rains can wash off excess salt before they do any damage.
    • Mature plants 4 years of age and older grown outdoors require 1-1.5 lb (0.45-0.68 kg) of nitrogen per year. Your fertilizer should say what percentage of nitrogen contains it, which will allow you to calculate how much fertilizer you need to use to achieve the exact amount of nitrogen. Stray in the root zone of plants and water into the soil, either annually in winter or in a backpack in February, July, and September.
  7. Eliminate indoor shrubs regularly. Dust accumulating on the leaves of the plant can prevent it from photosynthesis, which is part of how energy it reaches. Brush or wash the leaves every few weeks if the plant is kept indoors.
  8. Understand pruning that is rarely required. Unlike some varieties, oranges and other citrus juices will do well without pruning. Just remove the completely dead branch, and suck near the base that looks especially unhealthy. You can prune your tree to shape the direction of growth and keep it short enough to pick all the fruit, but only remove large branches during the winter months to avoid sunburning the tree inside the exposure.

Method 3 of 3: troubleshooting

  1. Protect the tree from burning or withering by wrapping the trunk in newspaper. If your tree is still small and has just been grown outdoors, it may be especially susceptible to sunburn. Sparks loosely around tree trunks and large branches if you see signs of sunlight, or are living in an area with strong sunlight.
  2. Check the soil pH if the leaves are turning yellow. Yellow leaves can be a sign of alkalinity, or too much salt in the plant. Test the pH of your soil to confirm this. If the soil is too alkaline, applying acidic (low pH) fertilizers and heavily washing the soil can seep alkaline salts.
    • Overfertilization, or fertilizer applied during the dry season, may be a cause of alkalinity.
  3. Wash off bed bugs with soapy water. Aphids are small green pests that eat a variety of plants. If you see them on the orange tree, rinse with soapy water. Many other solutions are detailed by aphid control if this doesn't work.
  4. Eliminate ants and other pests that feed on plants. Ants can be hard to destroy, but trying to put the pot in a larger container of standing water makes it impossible for them to get it.Use pesticides sparingly and as a last resort, especially if the tree is fruitful.
  5. Isolate the plant that will be exposed to frost. If possible, saplings should be brought indoors before frost. However, if they are grown outside and you don't have an indoor space, you should wrap the stalk with cardboard, corn stalks, wool, or other insulating material. Cover the trunk all the way up to the main branches.
    • A mature, healthy orange tree will rarely die from frost, but it can damage the leaves. Wait until spring to see the branches survive before pruning the dead ones away.
  6. Encourage next year fruit growth by selecting all of this year's ripe fruit. Leaving fruit on the tree could reduce the number of plants produced next year, although if you are only using the fruit for home purposes a mature tree should produce more than you need. Some like tangerines, or Valencia oranges, alternate years of major production with years of light production. Applying less during the year leads to light production, since plants have lower demand for nutrients. advertisement