Content

• Steps
• Advice
• Warning

Most cats have been taught to use the litter box by their mothers, but newly adopted feral cats are unaware of this. Even well-trained cats sometimes "forget" and defecate around the house. The reason they forget to use the litter box may be due to illness or simply because they like it. Whether you are training a newly adopted cat that is not in the habit of using a litter box or re-teaching your cat how to poop in the right place, these tips will help you practice good habit formation. this.

Steps

Part 1 of 5: Choosing the right cleaning tray

1. 

   Choose a large cleaning tray. A common cause of cats not defecating in the right place is because the tray is too small. This is especially important if the cat is still growing; a properly sized tray will become too cramped for them over the next few months. When buying a cat litter box, go for the larger one. They will then feel spacious and cool and think that the tray still has enough room to store feces and urine.
   • If your cat is young or old, choose a low-sided tray so that it can easily get in and out without problems.

2. 

   
   
   Choice of sealed or open tray. These two types have their own advantages and disadvantages. Some cats prefer one type over the other, while others do not. You can buy both to see which one they like.
   • The biggest advantage of a sealed litter box is the privacy that cats often like. The use of sealed trays will also keep dogs away from eating feces from the litter box, if this is dangerous in the home.
   • Closed litter boxes often cause stinks to build up inside, and this can make your cat even less likely to urinate in the tray.
   • If the cat is large, it may be difficult to turn around or dig through the tray.

3. 

   
   
   Buy at least two cleaning trays. If you have enough space in your home, you should buy two or three additional toilet trays. This is essential if you have a lot of cats, or if the cat is young and is learning how to poop in the right place. However, some experts recommend that each cat should have a separate tray, plus an extra tray placed in the house.

4. 

   
   
   Find the right location. Cats have a natural instinct to bury feces and urine, but if they can't access the litter box they will find somewhere else to "deal with their grief." Choosing the right location will limit problems, but in general there are a few points to keep in mind when choosing where to place a litter tray.
   • The location should be easy to access and convenient. Your cat will not want to travel long distances when it is in urgent need of a deal. So you should choose a place to help them go to the toilet as soon as they need.
   • Do not place the litter box near the cat's food and drink trays. Cats often consider eating and drinking places to be their home, and then they will defecate away from this area by natural instinct.Placing toilet trays close to the living quarters will make them uncomfortable and tend to address their needs outside the tray.
   • Create a quiet space for your cat. Most cats often choose a place with no people to go to the bathroom. If you put the litter box in a noisy area with lots of people (the laundry room or the living room), they won't use the litter box. So you need to move the tray to a quiet area with little traffic but still easy to find.
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Part 2 of 5: Storing the toilet tray

1. 

   Choose the right sand. Cats generally prefer sand as they can comfortably walk on them and are more likely to fill their stools. In addition, this sand also helps you to clean the toilet tray easily.
   • Some cats love odorless sand. The Humanitarian Association warns against using scented sand or deodorants as they can potentially irritate or irritate your cat.

2. 

   Use the right amount of sand. If you pour too much sand, you will create a mess, as the sand can fall out after the cat digs to bury it. But if the sand isn't enough, the cat may think they can't bury the feces and will defecate. In addition, too little sand in the toilet tray also causes a stench which makes cleaning more difficult.
   • Some experts recommend pouring sand into the toilet tray to about 5 cm. Some other experts suggest that the sand level in the tray should be 10 cm thick to allow the cat to freely dig and bury the waste.
   • Start at 5 cm, and if the cat is uncomfortable, increase it by 10 cm.

3. 

   Keep the cleaning tray clean. If you have a kitten or cat that is learning to use the litter box, leave only a little feces or urine for the first few weeks to remind them to go to the toilet in the right place. Once your cat knows how to use the litter box, however, you'll need to clean it up. In fact, leaving stools and urine left behind is the most common cause of droppings.
   • You should remove your cat's feces and urine every day. Some experts recommend cleaning every two days to keep the litter box clean.
   • Clean the litter box once a week. Use warm water and mild soap; Do not use harsh cleaning chemicals as detergent residues will stick on the trays or cause an unpleasant odor that will hurt your cat or prevent them from using the litter box.
   • After you have rinsed the litter box and let it air dry, pour as much clean sand as needed by your cat (still 5 to 10 cm deep).
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Part 3 of 5: Teach your cat to use the litter box

1. 

   Find out your cat's schedule. In general, cats usually go to the toilet after napping, playing or running around the house, or after eating a full meal. Knowing when your cat will poop will help you determine when your cat needs to poop so you can instruct her to use the litter box instead of dumping it on the sofa.

2. 

   Play with your cat near the litter box. Since your cat often has a need to "settle down" after playing or running around, you can facilitate it by playing with it near the litter box. This step will encourage the cat to go to the toilet, so that you can direct it to (or put them in) in the tray.
   • If the litter box is in a room with windows, close the door and stay in the room with the cat. Bring toys and let them play until you want to go to the toilet.

3. 

   Teach your cat what to do. If your cat has not been taught how to use the litter box by her mother, you will need to teach her how to use it. This doesn't mean you have to go to the toilet by yourself in a tray, but hold the cat in the tray at the time they are about to poop, and teach the cat how to dig.
   • Use your fingers to scratch the soil sideways until the cat understands the action. If they have put feces into the tray but have not covered them with soil, use your fingers to remove some soil to cover their waste. This step takes quite a while, but the cat will understand that they should follow this example.
   • When modeling how to dig and bury your cat's waste, you'll need to use your finger. If you grab their paws and try to "show" the cat how to dig and bury them, they will be frightened or upset and have aversion to the litter box. Be very patient, and be confident that your cat will learn how to use the litter box skillfully.
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Part 4 of 5: Fix your cat's defecation in the wrong place

1. 

   Do not scold the cat. The important thing to keep in mind is that they are not intentionally disruptive. Maybe the cat is sick, or you can let them use the litter box or the annoying sand. Scolding will only scare your cat more and will not help you solve the problem.

2. 

   Shovel the waste into the appropriate location. If your cat is messing around, instead of dumping the litter in the trash, pick it up with a tissue and place it in the litter box. This can be a reminder, as the cat will smell the waste and associate pooping with the act of stepping into a tray.

3. 

   Remove waste from the outside of the tray thoroughly. If your cat defecates outside of the tray, on the floor, carpet, or furniture, make sure you clean it up to avoid problems later on. Once the cat smells the feces or urine, the cat will continue to poop there.
   • Use an enzyme cleaner to clean stained carpets and furniture. This chemical cleaner can help remove odors, reducing the risk of your cat continuing to poop at that location in the future.
   • In the event that your cat continues to mess around in a sensitive area, keep the door closed to prevent it from entering the room. You can also lay unattractive material on the floor around the area, such as aluminum foil or an upside-down carpet.

4. 

   Move food and water to the problem area. If your cat keeps going to the toilet outside of the tray and prefers to stay in a fixed place, you can place the trays and water bowls in place where they go messed up. Cats instinctively never defecate near the eating area, so they will stop messing around outside of the litter box.

5. 

   Temporarily confine the cat for a while. If your cat still hasn't stopped defecating in the wrong place, consider locking the cat up. This method should only be used as the last resort, when the whole other solution is not working.
   • Choose the right room in the house so that the cat feels locked in a safe place. The place you choose should have enough open space and the room temperature should not be too harsh. In other words, make sure the room is cool in the summer and warm in the winter (depending on how long the cat is in).
   • Place the litter box in the corner of the room and the cat's bed, and place food and water in a further corner. The room should be large enough, as cats will not defecate near their eating area.
   • If your cat pokes out of the litter box repeatedly, spread the litter around the floor in the litter room. They will most likely defecate in the sand, and over time cats will automatically form the association of sandy smells with pooping.
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Part 5 of 5: Eliminate disease factor in cats

1. 

   Check to see if the cat is messing up elsewhere. If your cat isn't using a litter box, check around the house to make sure it's still pooping. In the event that your cat is not walking indoors, it is possible that the cat has a partial or complete urethral obstruction. If you find that your cat is not going to the toilet at all, you will need to take it to the vet right away.
   • If your cat is still pooping but not using the litter box, this could be a warning sign of urinary tract disease. Some cats with a urinary tract infection or blockage often defecate on tile, cement, or wooden floors, as they tend to find cool temperature surfaces and smooth material for their skin.

2. 

   Check for any blood in your cat's urine. One of the early signs of cat urinary tract infections (FLUTD), as well as kidney stones and bladder, is blood in the urine and frequent or exertion of urination. Other symptoms to watch for include cat crying out loud when urinating and licking / cleaning the genitals too often. If your cat has any of these symptoms, you should get him or her vet as soon as possible. If left for a long time, this condition will lead to an obstruction of the urethra, which can be life-threatening.
   • In addition to a physical exam, your veterinarian often performs urine analysis, urine culture and x-rays to determine the cause and location of your cat's disease.
   • Your veterinarian will prescribe medication to treat kidney stones. If your cat has determined that your cat has stones in the bladder, then they need surgery to remove or break the stone inside of the bladder to remove it.
   • If your cat has urinary problems or bladder / kidney stones, it may be because they are not drinking enough water. Always Make sure your cat has clean water (change it daily). Your veterinarian may recommend wet (canned) food to your cat. at least 50% in the diet.

3. 

   Watch for signs of vomiting, diarrhea, and weight loss. Some cats become inflamed along the digestive tract, causing inflammatory bowel disease in cats (IBD). The most common symptoms of enteritis include vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, and lethargy. Some children with IBD often have bloody stools. Symptoms can vary depending on which part of the digestive tract is affected. If your cat exhibits these symptoms, you should see the veterinarian as soon as possible.
   • Your veterinarian will often perform blood and stool tests to determine if symptoms are signs of IBD. In addition, your doctor will take X-rays and / or ultrasound to locate the affected.
   • To treat IBD, your veterinarian will prescribe corticosteroids to reduce inflammation and reduce the immune system's response to IBD. Depending on the severity of IBD in cats, your doctor also prescribes an antibiotic.
   • Veterinarians often recommend dietary changes to minimize IBD in cats. The general dietary requirements for cats with IBD include hypoallergenic cat foods, as well as high-fiber and low-fat foods.
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Advice

• Do not punish your cat when he or she defecates in the wrong place.
• When you move, the first thing you need to do is keep your cat in a small area of ​​your new home. This ensures that it feels safe and knows where the litter box is to reduce the risk of cats wandering indoors.
• Choose a litter box location so that your cat can easily find it. You should also find a place that is less likely to be disturbed by others.
• Reward your cat each time she uses the litter box so she doesn't think this is punishment.
• If you have a dog, don't let it disturb the petting cat

Warning

• If your cat is in pain while going to the toilet, or has blood in the feces or urine, see your vet immediately.