Content

• Steps
• Advice

Bearded dragon, or "bearded dragon," has a gentle, curious nature and seems to enjoy company with humans, making it a popular pet. It is very important that you take care of your dragon so that it is healthy and happy.

Steps

Part 1 of 6: Choosing the Australian dragon

1. 

   Find out about Australian dragons before you buy. Australian Dragon has special needs that need to be met, so you need to prepare some knowledge before owning an Australian dragon. At this point, you will need to determine if an Australian dragon is the right pet for you and make sure you have everything you need before you bring a dragon home.
   • Note that Australian dragons can be interesting pets, but they are not suitable for young children. Australian dragons need meticulous care, such as keeping the correct temperature and changing UVB bulbs regularly.

2. 

   
   
   Choose an Australian dragon that is more than 15 cm long. Young Australian dragons are often very fragile and susceptible to illness or over-stress. Adult dragons are much easier to take care of.

3. 

   Find a smart Australian dragon. As you step closer, it must look at you curiously with bright and flexible eyes. You probably don't want a dragon that can't lift its head or seems lethargic.

4. 

   
   
   Observe if the dragon has any deformities. Choose dragons without sores, burns, pus, skin parasites or defects.
   • However, many Australian dragons may lose a toe or a piece of the tail, but this should not cause discomfort, as long as the wound has healed and shows no signs of infection.

5. 

   
   
   Take your newly purchased Australian dragon to the vet. Immediately after purchasing an Australian dragon, take it to your veterinarian to examine the parasite and assess its overall health.
   • It may help if you bring a sample of the dragon's droppings. Ask your doctor about this when you call to make an appointment.
   • There are currently no recommended vaccines for Australian dragons.
   • You should be in the habit of taking your dragon for a health check, whether it is sick or not. Try to get your dragon to the vet every 3 months.
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Part 2 of 6: Creating a favorable habitat for Australian dragons

1. 

   Note that most Australian dragons are usually alone. Larger ones can attack smaller ones, and males are usually territorial in nature. This is even more complicated because it is difficult to sex Australian dragons when they are young, so at first you may not know if your dragon is male or female.

2. 

   Buy eco box instead of glass box or aquarium. Unlike a glass box or a fish tank with four glass sides, the eco box has solid wall surfaces and a glass front. Glass boxes will be hard to keep the environment warm enough, so either your dragon could get cold, or your home's electricity bill will skyrocket. Remember that the eco box should be at least 90 cm x 30 cm x 45 cm.
   • If you cannot afford the eco box, choose an aquarium with a net on the top.
   • If you want to build your own house, keep in mind that the cage should be well ventilated, easy to disinfect and able to retain heat well (see below).
   • Cages with wooden sides need to be sealed with polyurethane or another water repellent material, and seams need to be filled for easy cleaning and disinfection. Wait several days for the polyurethane to completely dry and expel the air before releasing the Australian dragon to avoid poisoning.

3. 

   Make sure that the Australian dragon's accommodation is large enough. Australian dragons can grow up to 60 cm long, move fast and love to climb, so they need plenty of living space. For young Australian dragons, a 40 liter aquarium is enough, but only for a few months, because your dragon will grow fast. Adult dragons need more space: the aquarium must have a minimum capacity of 210-230 liters, but it is better to use an aquarium with a capacity of 280-450 liters.
   • If you build your own house, make sure it is at least 120 cm long, 60 cm wide, and 50 cm tall.
   • To save money, you can always buy an adult dragon cage. Consider using adjustable partitions to expand the living space as your dragon grows.

4. 

   Use a net cover to cover the cage. Do not use glass, mica plastic or wood to cover the cage. These materials prevent air from circulating and cause moisture to accumulate in the house. The mesh cover will help the air circulate well, allow the light source and the temperature to work properly, and at the same time help moisture escape.
   • Make sure the lid is tightly closed.

5. 

   Floor lining. The bottom of the cage should be lined with a foundation that is safe and easy to clean. It is very important to choose materials that are not dangerous to the dragon. Australian dragons often feed on a substrate containing small particles, leading to gastrointestinal obstruction and death. You can use newspaper, tissue, wrapping paper or reptile carpet. These materials are cheap, easy to clean and will not harm your pets.
   • Make sure the bottom bottom in the eco box is carpeted with no heat source. Thus, if the dragon wants to dig under the top liner, then its most vulnerable area (abdomen) will not come into contact with the cold bottom of the tank.

6. 

   Add "furniture" to the dragon's house. Create an environment where your dragon can climb, hide and heat - necessary behaviors to maintain a healthy Australian dragon.
   • Never put in the barn anything you find outside. Logs and objects in nature can carry parasites, no matter how much you wash them.Instead, use disinfected logs and branches that are available from the store. Wash with warm water and dry before placing in the cage.
   • Place a few more branches for the dragon to climb and warm. Remember to place it firmly under an auxiliary heat source (see section 3). Make sure the branches are about the size of the dragon. Oak or carpeted boards are good options. Avoid logs with tar or tar.
   • Provide smooth stones for the dragon to warm and sharpen.
   • Create a hiding place for the dragon. You can add an empty cardboard box, cardboard tube or flower pot. The hiding place should be snug and placed high up in the cage. If your dragon is not using hiding place, try moving to another location or use a different object.
   • Add some greenery to provide shade, moisture and a sense of security to the dragon. Be sure to choose a plant that is not toxic to Australian dragons (such as anemone tree, a sapling tree Ficus benjamina, and hibiscus). Make sure the plants and soil are not treated with pesticides, fertilizers, or humectants. Before placing it in the cage, wash the plant with a spray bottle and water the soil until the water comes out of the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot: this will help remove any harmful chemicals. You may also need to isolate newly purchased plants in a secluded area of ​​your home for a while before placing them in a cage.
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Part 3 of 6: Controlling temperature and lighting

1. 

   Provide the main heat source. You need a heat source that maintains the temperature in the house at a level suitable for your dragon. Australian dragons like temperatures between 25-31 degrees C in the day, and at night is 21-26 degrees Celsius.
   • Use an incandescent light array on top of the barn. Remember to turn off the lights at night, and then you will need to use a different heat source, depending on the room temperature.
   • Try using a heating pad located at the bottom of the house or an infrared ceramic heater as a source of heat at night.
   • There are specialized incandescent bulbs for reptiles, capable of radiating heat but less light; however this lamp is quite expensive.
   • For large pens, you will need to adjust the temperature of the room with a thermostat or heater.
   • Always install fire alarms in rooms where lights or heat sources are working.

2. 

   Use extra heat source. Australian dragons like to have a temperature difference in their pens so they can move from warmer to cooler areas. An extra heat source will give them a place to heat them. This area should occupy 25-30% of the barn space, with temperatures around 35-38 degrees C. You can use a special heating lamp, or choose a simple incandescent bulb with a capacity of 30-75 W. with ceramic base. This heat source should be securely mounted where the animal cannot touch it.
   • Never use hot ice as a heat source!
   • Be sure to use a smaller light bulb to heat young Australian dragons who live in small pens; otherwise, the cage will become too hot.
   • Do not let the temperature rise more than 43 degrees Celsius, but heating in this range is acceptable.
   • You should place one thermometer in the "hot zone" and one in the "cool zone" to make sure that the right temperature is maintained.

3. 

   Provide UVB light. Australian dragons need ultraviolet light to synthesize vitamin D, which supports the absorption of calcium; A calcium deficiency can lead to bone metabolic disorder. You can use either a fluorescent lamp or a mercury vapor bulb; Fluorescent lamps need to be replaced every 6 months, as the UVB radiation emitted will weaken over time. Australian dragons need 12-14 hours of exposure to this light every day.
   • Make sure the fluorescent bulb emits a light with at least 5% UVB (check the packaging for the parameters).
   • Look for long light bulbs that cover the full length of the cage.
   • Consider using ultraviolet lamps with wavelengths in the 290-320 nm range. (Note that these lamps are not the same as the plant lights or the lights used in bars.) You can choose bulbs that emit both white light and UVB rays, or bulbs that emit only UVB light.
   • It is best to place the UVB light source 25-30 cm away from where the dragon is normally located (such as a heating area) to ensure the dragon is exposed to sufficient light. The lamp should not be kept more than 45 cm away.
   • Remember that UVB rays do not penetrate glass. The UVB source should be mounted above the net lid of the cage, and the net should not be too tight.
   • The sun is the best source of UVB. On sunny days, when the temperature is within the right range (see section 3, step 1 above), put your dragon in a securely locked net and bring it outside to heat. You should also provide shade and hiding places for the dragon.
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Part 4 of 6: Feeding the Australian Dragon

1. 

   Give your dragon food of the right size. One of the important factors to remember when feeding your dragon is that any dragon food should not be greater than the distance between its eyes. If the food is larger than this, the dragon can choke, block the digestive tract, and paralyze the hind legs.

2. 

   Feed your dragon a diet mainly consisting of small insects. Australian dragons are omnivores, meaning that they eat both animals and plants. However, young and young Australian dragons have special needs in their diet. You should feed your dragon with small insects in sufficient quantity for about 5-10 minutes. Stop feeding when the dragon stops eating. Baby dragons can eat about 20-60 baby crickets a day.
   • Feed your newly hatched dragon a diet that includes small insects. If you have a very small Australian dragon, you need to feed your dragon with very small prey such as a pin-sized cricket or tiny newly hatched worm. You can gradually train your dragons to eat a day old hamster when they are ready.
   • Feed your baby dragons (two to four months old) a diet of 80% insects and 20% green vegetables (see suggestions below).
   • Baby dragons need to be fed two to three times a day.

3. 

   Feed your adult dragon plenty of vegetables. The diet of adult dragons consists of about 60-65% plants and 30-45% animals. Calcium-rich green leafy vegetables and other root vegetables make up a large portion of the adult dragon's diet.
   • Offer a “salad” consisting of collard greens, dandelion leaves and flowers, bitter greens, curl, grape leaves, mustard greens, turnip leaves and / or watercress.
   • You can add the following vegetables to balance your dragon's nutrition: winter squash, red and green bell peppers, zucchini, green beans, lentils, pumpkins and other squash, peas , sweet potatoes and turnips. Cook squash to soften before feeding the dragon.
   • Occasionally feed your dragons the following vegetables as treats: cabbage, rainbow kale and kale (these vegetables are high in calcium oxalate, which causes bone metabolism disorders); carrots (high in vitamin A, which can cause poisoning in high levels); spinach, broccoli and parsley (high in goitrogens, impairing thyroid function); and corn, cucumber, turnip, Brussels sprouts and zucchini (low nutritional value).
   • Spray the vegetables with water to keep them fresh for a long time and provide more water for the dragon.
   • Slice the vegetables and blend them into a salad to encourage your dragon to eat a variety of foods instead of just choosing the favorites.

4. 

   Offer your dragons fruit and certain plants from time to time as a reward. You can also feed them the following foods: apples, apricots, bananas, berries, cantaloupe, figs, grapes, mangoes, oranges, papaya, peaches, pears, plums, tomatoes, birth Ficus benjamina, geranium, hibiscus flowers and leaves, pangasius, petunia, vines, rose petals and leaves, snail vine (a legume species), and violet.

5. 

   Feed young and mature Australian dragons once a day with green vegetables. You can try feeding them crickets, rice worms, wax worms, milk worms, baby rats, and Madagascar cockroaches.
   • "Fatten" the prey by feeding them nutritious food a day or two before feeding them to the Aussie dragons. For example, you can feed them ground beans, cornstarch, carrots, sweet potatoes, collard greens, broccoli, broccoli, spinach, apples, oranges, cereals, and rolled oats.
   • Any prey that the dragon does not finish should be removed from the cage.
   • You should buy bait for your dragon, as prey caught in the wild (such as the ones you catch in your garden) can be exposed to toxic chemicals or carry parasites to your dragon.
   • Fireflies are insects that are poisonous to Australian dragons.
   • Silkworm is the staple food only when an Australian dragon becomes sick or pregnant.

6. 

   Sprinkle non-phosphate powder calcium supplements on vegetables and insects. Buy a powdered (phosphate-free) calcium supplement sprinkled on salads and prey right before feeding your dragon. Do this once a day for immature dragons (under 2 years old) and once or twice a week for adult dragons.
   • You may also need to take a vitamin D3 supplement.
   • See product instructions and / or your veterinarian about how much to feed your dragon dragon supplements, as overdose can lead to poisoning.

7. 

   Don't be alarmed if your dragon refuses to eat. When it comes to skinning, the Australian dragon may not eat. However, if the Australian dragon has stopped eating for more than three days and shows no signs of skin peeling, it may be sick. In this case, you must call your veterinarian to make an appointment for a visit.

8. 

   Provide clean water every day. Keep water in a shallow bowl for the dragon to drink. You can place your finger in the bowl of water to get its attention. Australian dragons love moving objects, so rippling water will evoke its curiosity. However, many Australian dragons do not drink from the bowl, so you may need to use a dropper to slowly drip the water over the dragon's snout.
   • Dragons often excrete waste into the water bowl, so you need to change the water once a day (or as soon as you see its feces in the water bowl). For the same reason, you also need to disinfect the bowl once a week with a 1:10 solution of bleach and water to prevent bacteria from accumulating.
   • If your dragon does not like drinking water, you should gently spray water on the dragon: it will lick the water droplets on the skin.
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Part 5 of 6: Keeping clean

1. 

   Bathing for the Australian dragon. Bathe your dragon once a week to keep it moisturized and supportive during its peeling process.
   • Dragon baths should be warm and not hot when tested on the wrists, like baby bath water.
   • Store water in the bath just as deep as the dragon's chest or to the front half of his legs. Turn the water on until the water level reaches the second knuckle of your index finger if you bathe an adult dragon, and touch the first knuckle of your finger if you are bathing a baby dragon.
   • Never leave your dragon unattended in a bath - accidents can happen in seconds.
   • You should disinfect the tub after bathing your dragon, as it usually excretes waste into the water. Use a 1:10 solution of bleach and water.

2. 

   Keep the Australian dragon's dwellings clean. You need to clean the barn as well as the food and water bowls once a week.
   • Mix 1:10 bleach to water and pour it into a spray bottle.
   • Take the dragon out of the barn. Have a person keep the dragon or lock it securely.
   • Use hot water and a clean rag to remove dirt and dragon waste.
   • Next, spray the bleach solution on the entire cleaning surface until it is wet and wait 15 minutes, then wipe with a rag or paper towel, making sure to remove old food and droppings.
   • Rinse all surfaces repeatedly with water until the smell of bleach is gone. If you still smell bleach, rinse it off.

3. 

   Keep yourself clean. Hand washing is a very important step when keeping a reptile. Washing your hands before and after touching your dragon will keep you and your new pet healthy. If you wash your hands before touching the dragon, you will help reduce the chance of passing germs to the dragon. If you wash your hands after touching the dragon, you will reduce your risk of infection Salmonella. The risk is very low, but hand washing will further reduce the risk. Possibility of infection Salmonella From food the more likely you will get this bacteria from an Australian dragon.
   • Australian dragons can carry bacteria SalmonellaSo use a separate sponge to wash their food and drink dishes, watch for the kids while playing with dragons and don't let them crawl around in the kitchen. Also, avoid kissing Australian dragons, no matter how cute they are.
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Part 6 of 6: Holding an Australian dragon in hand

1. 

   Hold the Australian dragon in your hand at least once a day. Australian dragons are often curious, cheerful creatures that seem to enjoy company with humans. By regularly handling and petting Australian dragons, you will help them get acquainted with people and reduce stress while washing the cage or visiting the doctor.
   • Pick up the Australian dragon by placing one hand under its belly and gently lift it. Let the dragon rest on your palm and gently wrap your fingers around its stomach.

2. 

   Consider wearing gloves and a long-sleeved shirt. Australian dragon skin is very rough, so you should protect yourself from scratches.

3. 

   Trim your Australian dragon's nails every few weeks. Dragon's toenails will grow very sharp, so be sure to take care of them.
   • Wrap the dragon in a towel, leaving one of its legs out.
   • Ask for help to keep the dragon.
   • Use human nail clippers to cut the tips of the dragon's toenails. Just press a little bit, because lizards have blood vessels in the toes, also known as the nail marrow.
   • If you accidentally cut your dragon's nail marrow, you can stop the bleeding by dabing cornstarch on the nail with a cotton ball.
   • You can also file dragons' nails, or have your veterinarian cut them for a small fee.

4. 

   Learn how to read Australian dragons' body language. You will understand your dragon better by recognizing some of its gestures.
   • Gills: When a lizard wants to show dominance, or is startled or feels threatened - this is especially common during the breeding season - they puff up their throat.
   • Opening your mouth: like puffing your gills, this gesture is meant to pose a threat as a way of showing dominance or to scare the opponent away.
   • Nodding: Males show strength with this gesture.
   • Hand waving: Sometimes an Australian dragon may raise one foreleg and wave it slowly; that is a sign of submission.
   • Tilted: This gesture is usually seen during the breeding season. That can be a sign of vigilance and dynamism. Juvenile dragons often raise their tails when hunting.

5. 

   Take your dragon to the veterinarian for a checkup once a year. After the initial physical exam, every year you need to bring your dragon to the doctor to check for problems early and to keep your reptile as healthy as possible. advertisement

Advice

• Never use heating stones! Australian dragons are incapable of recognizing hot rocks and will burn their stomachs. This can be very dangerous for your dragon. Instead, use a heating lamp. The heating lamp will provide the right source of heat without hurting.
• When misting, you should use RO water (water treated with reverse osmosis membrane). This water has been filtered and does not contain anything harmful to your dragon.
• DO NOT put any sand into the cage. The sand can cause digestive problems and is very dangerous for Australian dragons, and they can die from the sand.
• Once you have fed your dragon a large insect, you should not continue feeding, make sure to put clean water nearby and leave it alone.
• There are many products on the market that are specifically intended for washing reptile pens, such as Zoo Med's Wipe Out 1. You can buy this or other similar products at pet stores.
• Mist your bearded dragon during the winter months. When the humidity is low, you need to help keep your dragon moist by pouring water into a spray bottle and misting them several times a week.
• Are not wash any Australian dragon items with the bleach solution! Even if you no longer smell the smell, the residue of bleach remains and will probably be absorbed through the dragon's skin. Instead, you can use Pinesol disinfectant water and rinse the product thoroughly until it no longer smells, then rinse it again with distilled vinegar and rinse. Wait a while to dry.
• If the humidity in the tank is low (some tanks come with humidity monitors), you can use a spray bottle and spray it once or twice in the tank. This will help increase moisture and hydrate the dragon.
• Do not put sand in the barn. Sand can cause serious digestive problems for your dragon. When you buy your dragon, don't put it in the cage in a hurry, keep it out with a heating pad. Pour the rice into a sock, tie it with an elastic band and heat in the microwave for 1-2 minutes.
• Make sure your dragons stay warm at night. You should buy ceramic heaters to keep them warm at night.
• When you first bring your Australian dragon back, you should take time for it to be alone to explore its new environment.
• Do not let your dragon eat rice worms or milk worms. These foods can get stuck in the digestive tract and cause many problems.