Ways to take care of goldfish

Author: Louise Ward
Date Of Creation: 8 February 2021
Update Date: 1 July 2024
Anonim
Goldfish Beginner Care Guide | Basic Care For Goldfish
Video: Goldfish Beginner Care Guide | Basic Care For Goldfish

Content

  • Fish are sensitive creatures, they are susceptible to stress when their habitat changes. The transient changes are too great to kill the fish, even in the ideal environment. You should also not move fish continuously from tank to tank.
  • Goldfish cannot live in very narrow transient environments for long periods of time. If you temporarily keep the fish in a plastic bag or bowl, an hour is a good time, but if it lasts a few hours, it will negatively affect the fish; If you keep fish in small containers, one day is maximum.
  • In the event of an emergency, you can store the fish in a large clean plastic bucket, making sure to use treated tap water.
  • Arrange a few miniatures and lights for the aquarium. Goldfish are active during the day, so they are very flexible in the light. They need light to maintain a healthy sleep / wake cycle. This is also proof that light is essential to keeping the color of the fish bright. Fish that do not sleep well or do not get enough light will gradually lose color and become drowsy. If the tank is not exposed to natural sunlight, regenerate the day / night cycle by lighting the tank for 8-12 hours per day. Do not place the tank in direct sunlight as this will cause large heat fluctuations and promote algae growth.
    • Consider placing a stone or wooden ornament with some artificial greenery in the tank. Stone or wood will give the goldfish many quiet corners and nooks to explore, and fake bonsai will not make algae multiply in the tank. Remember that goldfish do best in relatively empty environments. They are chubby fish and swim quite badly, so a small layout means the fish can swim more comfortably. You might consider placing a medium to large display item in the middle of the tank and some sap around the pool to give the fish a suitable living space.
    • Aquatic plants are very beneficial because they help absorb the amount of ammonia, nitrogen and nitrogen that accumulates in the aquarium due to waste and natural corrosion. However, the goldfish is an omnivore and a voracious eater. You should be loyal to the fake bonsai until you have enough time and ability to protect the real plant from the gluttonous goldfish.
    • Make sure that all the decorations you choose are non-hollow (as harmful bacteria can multiply in them) and don't have sharp edges (which can tear the fish's fins).
    • Use fluorescent lights for the aquarium. If you don't have a fluorescent light, you can use a tungsten lamp or a filament lamp. The lighting time for goldfish should be 12am and 12pm.

  • Install the water filter. Goldfish really need filter. A filter usually has three stages: mechanical (to retain large pieces of waste such as fish droppings or leftovers); chemistry (to prevent odors, discoloration, and other organic matter handling) and biological (using beneficial bacteria to convert waste and ammonia). Filters are classified according to the size of the aquarium. If your tank is mid-sized, suitable for two types of filters then you should choose the larger one. Tank with a clean water environment, equipped with a suitable and effective filter will help goldfish have good health and good shape. There are three popular types of filters:
    • Filter hanging (waterfall filter): hanging on the wall of the tank, used to suck water in and filter out water. This type is very popular, affordable and is probably the most cost effective.
    • External filter: The filter tank is located below the aquarium, which uses a series of tubes to bring water in and out. Barrel filters are more expensive but are quiet and are much more efficient than hanging filters. The tank filter is designed for tanks with a capacity of 189 liters, so no suitable for smaller tanks is available.
    • Wet / dry filter: uses an overflow box to filter out dirt. However, the wet / dry filter is much more cumbersome than a waterfall or barrel filter, so it is only suitable for aquariums larger than 189 liters.

  • Bring water into the tank. After preparation is complete, fill the tank with appropriately treated tap water or distilled water.
    • Untreated tap water and bottled drinking water contain chemicals and minerals that are harmful to fish.
  • Clean the aquarium at least once a week. With the naked eye, you can see that the tank is not dirty, but the filter cannot completely remove fish waste. If the living environment is clean, the fish can live a healthy and happy life. Fact is proven, a healthy and happy goldfish can live up to several decades! In addition, do not clean the tank with soap because soap is very toxic to fish and can cause fish to die quickly. Another mistake is keeping fish with regular tap water and drinking water. Ordinary tap water contains too many toxins, while drinking water lacks essential minerals for fish. You can treat tap water by purchasing a water stabilizer at the aquarium store and filling it with the dosage indicated on the label.
    • Avoid getting fish out of the tank when cleaning. Use a gravel cleaner to absorb sediment without affecting the fish's lifestyle habits. If for some reason you need to catch fish, use a plastic box instead of a scoop. The nets are easy to damage the fish fins so they are very afraid of the racquets and this puts the fish under stress.
    • Change of the tank water each week to maintain the correct amount of water reserve in the tank. Change the water in half every time the nitrate ratio reaches 20. The water change can make things a little messy, so prepare some rags around the tank. Be careful not to suck any small fish.

  • Feed the fish 1-2 times per day. They should only eat them for about 1 minute, do not trust the information on the product packaging, but feed the fish too much. It is better to feed the fish a little better is overfeeding. Overfeeding can lead to overfeeding and death. If you are using floating food, soak the seeds in water for a few seconds before placing them in the tank to allow the food to sink easily. This will limit the amount of air that the fish can swallow when eating, reducing the risk of bubble diseases.
    • Like us, goldfish need a variety of nutrients. Feeding the goldfish the main pellets, sometimes Change with fresh foods like brine shrimp and frozen dry foods like larvae or worms. For dry food, you must soak in a cup containing pool water before feeding the fish so that the food does not expand in the fish's stomach, making it difficult for the fish to swim.
    • Feed the fish what they can in one minute. Then, remove any leftover food from the tank. Goldfish are very gluttonous and are more likely to die from overeating than any other fish.
    • Feed the fish at the same place in the tank, at the same time every day (once in the morning and once in the evening).
  • Turn off the lights for the fish to sleep. Goldfish do not have eyelids and they do not really stop swimming while sleeping, just the body goes in a state of inactive state. You may see fish having color changes and limited activity (they often rely on the wall of the tank while sleeping).
    • Goldfish like to "sleep" in the dark. Setting up the aquarium lighting is only necessary if you are growing plants or in a dimly lit room. However, even if you don't use aquarium lights, practice energy saving habits by turning off unnecessary lights.
  • Allow the water temperature to change naturally with the seasons. Goldfish do not like environments hotter than 24 ° C, they do better when the season changes and temperatures drop deeply to 15-20 ° C in winter (in cold countries). However, the fish will stop eating if the temperature is only 10-14 ° C.
    • Have a good thermometer to make keeping track of things easier. There are two types of thermometers to choose from: both in the tank and out. The accuracy of both is the same and is sufficient, so choose the one you like.
    • If you do not want to propagate for goldfish, the ideal tank temperature is stable all year round at 23 ° C. And if you do want to propagate them, simulate the seasonal aquarium temperature (goldfish spawn in the spring). Start by lowering the temperature to around 10-12 ° C to simulate winter.Then, when it comes to the breeding season, increase the temperature gradually up to about 20-23 ° C. This will stimulate the goldfish to lay eggs.
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  • Part 3 of 3: Dealing with potential problems

    1. Adjust when the tank water is cloudy. Sometimes even though we try our best, things still don't go well. Water can turn yellow, green, or even white. However, if you find it in time, everything is still under control. Clean the tank now!
      • Each color represents a different problem. The cause can be due to algae, bacteria or the process of decomposition of aquatic plants. Do not worry! The water only needs to be filtered through a few cycles and your fish will be fine.
    2. Observe strange spots on the fish's body. One of the most common problems with goldfish is white spot disease - small, white spots that appear on the body and fins make it difficult for the fish to breathe. This is a treatable parasite. You will need to transfer the fish to a separate tank for treatment with a commercially available fungicide for goldfish.
      • It is important to keep the fish away from the community as the parasites can spread to the animals and plants that live in the tank.
      • If you see white spots on the gravel or the landscape of your tank, remove the chemical phase of the filter and dispose of the entire tank immediately. Keep sick fish separate as they require more medical care than healthy fish.
      • You can also use chemical-free methods, such as increasing the water temperature (29 ° C) or the salt content in the tank (3.8 liters is equivalent to 1 teaspoon of salt). Under the above conditions, most mycelium will not survive. Increase the temperature (slowly, no more than 1-2 degrees F per hour) or add salt gradually (1 teaspoon of salt / 3.8 liters of water every 12 hours). Once signs of infection disappear, you need to continue the treatment for at least 3 more days and then stop. Next, perform partial water changes more frequently so that the tank water soon returns to equilibrium. During the treatment process, the fish will suffer as well as lose color.
    3. Beware of worms. Worms are a common parasite. If infected with a fluke, the fish will develop symptoms such as rubbing on the body surface, producing mucous membranes, mild redness and bloating.
      • As with any parasite (like white spot), you need to isolate the diseased fish. If you solve the problem promptly from the start, the fish is likely to survive and be back with your friends soon.
    4. Observe your symptoms fish bubble disease. The fish will swim sideways or even upside down, so it's easy to spot. At first glance the fish seems to be dying, but luckily it is not. Bubble diseases are not contagious and are easy to treat.
      • In this case, you do not need to isolate the fish because the bubble disorder is not caused by parasites. However, if you are careful then do so.
      • This disease also does not require much medicine because the main reason is due to improper feeding. Simply reduce the amount of feed again, or preferably, suspend feeding for about 3 days so that the bacteria in the fish's gut have time to return to normal. If symptoms persist, consider changing to a higher fiber diet that includes foods such as beans, cucumbers or specialties for internal infections.
    5. If dead fish are found, they need to be disposed of in the appropriate manner. The first thing to do is to throw away the dead fish so that the house doesn't smell bad. You can bury or dispose of fish in compost with organic matter. Do not drop the dead fish in the toilet and rush! Put your hands in a plastic bag, remove the dead fish, then turn left and tie the top of the bag tightly. Depending on the level of the situation we choose the right way to clean the aquarium.
      • If only one animal dies, hopefully you can find it in time and the pathogen has not spread to other organisms in the tank.
      • If your fish are all dead, you will need to clean the entire tank with a cleaning solution. Just ¼ teaspoon of bleach (a very small amount) for every 3.8 liters of water is enough. Soak the tank for one to two hours to completely remove the toxins, then drain the water and let it dry.
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    Advice

    • A healthy goldfish usually has bright scales and upright dorsal fins. When choosing to buy goldfish, choose fish that look bright and cheerful!
    • Goldfish sometimes keep stones in their mouth. If you see them do that, don't worry! The fish will spit out on its own! Just don't buy the gravel that is too small, or the fish is at risk of choking.
    • Goldfish can survive for up to a week without food - so if you forget to feed your fish a day or two it's okay.
    • If you are using floating food, you should soak the food in water for a few seconds before putting it in the tank so that the food can easily sink. This helps to reduce the amount of air the fish is swallowing while eating, and also limits health risks.
    • Watch for signs that the fish is uncomfortable.
    • If the goldfish has many white spots on the body, it is a sign of white spot disease. The disease is relatively easy to treat, and it's available at most pet stores.
    • Do not take fish out of the tank just because you see them open their eyes and not budge. That's how goldfish sleep: they don't have eyelids, so they sleep with their eyes open.
    • You can use baking soda to clean the tank. Baking soda powder will remove algae from artificial plants, tank walls, gravel surfaces, and filters. Remember to scrub thoroughly!
    • Do not feed fish with ordinary drinking water, only use treated tap water.
    • Never catch fish by hand as you can stop the fish from breathing.

    Warning

    • Never keep your goldfish in a small tank or aquarium smaller than 75 liters unless it is temporary. The glass pot is not too small, but the amount of oxygen in the exchange pot is poor, the small pot is difficult to put the filter, it is easy to strike because of the round body of goldfish and especially inhibits their growth. A small aquarium severely affects the immune system of the fish and causes them to die immediately or slowly die off over a few years. You should know that: Living in a glass pot shortens up to 80% of the goldfish's lifespan. This is similar to someone dying at the age of 15-20!
    • Goldfish will gradually grow (usually about 20cm larger fish, however many ornamental goldfish varieties are usually a little smaller in size, about 15 cm) and can live for 15-30 years. Sadly, millions of goldfish die each year because of inadequate care and because people believe in the "goldfish pot" image. Treat the fish properly, you will find them to live a long time.
    • Goldfish can eat and will eat anything near it, so be careful what you put in the tank!
    • Your aquarium is a habitat, not a tank; Most tanks with dense fish can cause problems because the fish's space to live is significantly limited.
    • Watch out for the types of fish you stock in your tank! Find out and ask the seller for their information so you don't have to see the goldfish skeleton floating in the tank. Listen to information from the sellers selectively, however, it's best to do your own research on online forums or flyers about aquarium fish.
    • The base sand in the tank should be stirred every time the water is changed to prevent compaction and anaerobic conditions.

    What you need

    • Aquariums / aquariums
    • Country
    • Goldfish
    • Food for goldfish
    • Ornaments
    • Pebbles
    • Refinery
    • Aquarium thermometer
    • Test kit for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate concentration in water. The Liquid Freshwater Master Test Kit API is a good product to recommend.
    • Racket to collect fish (do not grab them by hand, always use the racket to collect fish)