Content

• To step
• Part 1 of 3: Choosing a cage and other supplies
• Part 2 of 3: Finding a place for your cage
• Part 3 of 3: Decorating your cage
• Tips

Rabbits can make great pets. But before you bring your new rabbit home, you still need to create a cozy home that meets all the needs of a rabbit. Learn how to make a comfortable and safe enclosure for your rabbit, with plenty of room to stretch out, play and retreat for the night.

To step

Part 1 of 3: Choosing a cage and other supplies

1. Choose a wire cage or a wooden cage. Wire cages are more suitable as temporary shelters because they do not give the rabbit a chance to crawl away. A rabbit that is constantly in sight on all sides will quickly feel stressed. Of course, it helps to put a shelter or box in the cage so that the rabbit has some privacy.
   • But while a hutch may seem better, they are heavy and bulky, and not really suitable for indoors.
   • Traditional hutches are made of wood, with chicken wire stretched over the door so that the rabbit can see out. Wood remains a very good choice because it insulates well, it keeps out the wind, rain and cold in the winter, but also provides shade in the summer.
   • A wire cage is fine as a temporary shelter, such as when the rabbit can run loose in the house, but you don't trust the rabbit around electrical wiring. When choosing a wire cage, make sure the rabbit has a hiding place or hutch that he can feel safe in when he goes to sleep.
2. Choose a cage that is the right size for your rabbit. Rabbits vary enormously in size, from the dwarf bunny that weighs no more than 1.5 kilos, to the enormous Flemish giant that can weigh up to 10 kilos. The floor space required and the height of the cage depend on the type of rabbit you choose. When purchasing the cage, always keep the rabbit's adult weight and size in mind.
   • As a rule of thumb, you can keep the cage high enough to allow the rabbit to sit upright on its hind legs. The length should be more than three adult jumps and the width should be two adult jumps.
   • Rabbits live in armies and only really feel safe to sleep when they are enclosed, and preferably in the dark. So it will be nice if your cage has two rooms, one of which offers complete privacy.
   • For two small rabbits, a cage should be at least 150 cm long, 60 cm wide and 60 cm high. When the rabbits are bigger, it rises to at least 185 cm long, 90 cm wide and 90 cm high. Of course you should always base your calculations on the largest rabbit.
   • If you are bringing a baby bunny home, keep in mind that it will continue to grow in the coming months, so choose a hutch that fits the bunny's adult size.
   • A lot of rabbit cages those sold at pet stores are actually much too small. If the pet store doesn't have a suitable assortment, search online, or get creative and make your own.
3. Make sure your cage has a solid bottom. Many rabbits suffer from a condition called pododermatitis, where they develop painful pressure marks on the back of their hind legs from sitting on hard surfaces or wet bedding. The mesh of a cage is totally unsuitable as a bottom and very uncomfortable for the rabbit.
   • If your cage has a mesh bottom, you will need to cover it with something, such as a piece of plywood, and cover it with bedding.
4. Choose a hutch with mesh sides. A hutch with mesh sides and top will give your rabbit plenty of ventilation and it will be fairly easy to keep clean. But make sure the bottom is not made of mesh. Your rabbit should not be forced to sit or stand on gauze for extended periods of time.
   • Consider an open top cage, such as a puppy run. That will give the rabbit more freedom to move around and it will feel less private. Make sure it is at least 90 cm high so that the rabbit cannot jump out.
   • If you want to make an outside hutch for your rabbit, the specifications are different. Search WikiHow's article on building a rabbit hutch for more information.
5. Make sure the bottom of the cage has a urine barrier. The bottom of the cage, the tray, should have high, closed sides. This is because rabbits tend to spray when they urinate.
   • It is also helpful to prevent the rabbit from throwing straw on the ground.
   • If your cage doesn't have security, and you decide to make your own, use materials such as cardboard, which will not harm the rabbit if he chews it. You will have to replace it often, but it will not make your rabbit sick.
6. Choose a rabbit toilet. If your rabbit lives indoors, buying a rabbit toilet and training your rabbit to use it is very important. A triangular toilet bowl to place in the corner of the cage or run is very handy.
   • Your rabbit may not be using the toilet bowl right away, so be patient. You will have to potty train him. Eventually he will learn to go on it every time.
7. Buy food bowls and a water supply for the cage. Use heavy, flat-bottomed food bowls that are difficult to knock over. Provide a hay rack but place it as low above the ground as possible. Rabbits don't like to stretch up.

Part 2 of 3: Finding a place for your cage

1. Place the cage in a well-ventilated area that does not get too hot or too cold. Do not put it in a dusty or dirty area such as an attic or basement, as dust will affect the rabbit's sensitive lungs.
   • The rabbit also needs natural light. Make sure that the sun is not directly on him, but give him filtered sunlight.
   • Be aware that rabbits don't like loud noises or sudden movements. Placing the cage next to a dryer can cause unnecessary stress to the rabbit.
   • A guest bedroom can be a good choice, as long as you make sure you spend time with your rabbit on a regular basis.
2. Make sure your rabbit is safe from predators. Also make sure that other animals in the household, such as cats and dogs, cannot disturb the rabbit. Rabbits are prey animals and do not feel comfortable being around carnivores!
   • If you have dogs, make sure you place the cage slightly above the floor. The rabbits will feel very intimidated if a dog is sniffing around at an equal height.
3. Choose a room for your rabbit to roam. Rabbits should not be left in their cage all the time. You will need to let your rabbit out so it gets some exercise. It's easiest to put the cage in a room where you don't mind letting your rabbit hop around and explore.
   • Make sure the room is clear of wires, sharp corners, small toys, and other things that could injure your rabbit.

Part 3 of 3: Decorating your cage

1. Cover the cage with bedding. A rabbit needs a thick layer of bedding to protect the hind legs from pain. The bigger the rabbit, the deeper the cover.
   • Materials most commonly used to cover the bottom are straw, wood moth and hay. Of these types, straw is the best because it is springy and soft, and because it retains heat in the winter. Straw is also safe if the rabbit wants to nibble on it.
   • Provide at least 5 to 6 inches of bedding for an average rabbit, and more for larger ones.
   • Although your rabbit may be house trained, it is not a good idea to cover the cage with carpet as it can cause an intestinal blockage if gnawed.
   • Clean the wet areas in the cage every day by scooping out the areas contaminated with urine or droppings and then replacing them with clean straw. It is best to completely clean the cage once a week.
   • Rabbits will chew a blanket or bed, so it is better to put an extra thick and cozy layer of straw in the box or shelter.
2. Fill the rabbit toilet with a layer of newspaper, non-toxic filling, and a top layer of hay. Replace the hay daily and replace the rest of the rabbit toilet weekly.
   • Don't use cat litter, especially the clump-forming litter, as it can be deadly to rabbits.
3. Provide food for your rabbit. Grass is the best food for rabbits, and hay is an excellent substitute. Feed your rabbit only hay whenever possible, that way their teeth will stay in perfect condition and they won't get too fat.
   • Provide a daily supplement in the form of fresh fruit or vegetables, but try to give something different every day to ensure a balanced diet.
   • If you have more than one rabbit, provide each rabbit with its own bowl and an extra one. Divide the boxes over the cage so that a rabbit cannot appropriate all the boxes.
4. Provide water for your rabbit. Water bowls can easily be pushed over or soiled with pellets or droppings, which is why drinking bottles are preferred. Change the water every day so that it is always fresh. Also wash the drinking spout daily, and never use a drinking spout that is discolored by algae.
   • If you have more than one rabbit, you should hang a water bottle on either side of the cage.
5. Put some toys in the cage. Toys provide relaxation and enrichment to the rabbits. Give the rabbit toys to play with, such as cardboard toilet rolls or cardboard boxes with holes cut in them. Some rabbits will even play with toys like a ball with a bell in it.
   • Rabbits love to gnaw so give some sturdy branches of fruit tree wood (apple, pear, plum, cherry), or you can buy commercial rabbit rodent toys from a pet store.
   • When choosing toys, make sure they are safe for your rabbit. A good toy is a cardboard box filled with shredded paper and dry hay. Your rabbit will love to dig through that.

Tips

• Many rabbits can be trained to house rabbits and enjoy the freedom to explore the house on your own.
• You should keep your rabbit in its cage for the first three to four days.