Content

• Steps
• Method 1 of 11: Prepare for installation
• Method 2 of 11: Mark your fence plan
• Method 3 of 11: Install the final pillars
• Method 4 of 11: Mark your pillar line
• Method 5 of 11: Setting the border of the pillars
• Method 6 of 11: Add connectors and plugs to posts
• Method 7 of 11: Installing the top bar
• Method 8 of 11: Hang the mesh fence
• Method 9 of 11: Tensioning the Mesh
• Method 10 of 11: Knotting and tightening
• Method 11 of 11: Add tension wire (optional)
• Tips
• Warnings
• What do you need

A mesh fence is an inexpensive way to keep an area of ​​any size safe or secure. Unlike a solid fence, the open mesh design allows people to look through the fence while serving as a barrier against intrusion. Following are the steps to install a mesh fence.

Steps

Method 1 of 11: Prepare for installation

1. 1 Obtain all required permissions. Your local government may have building and zoning rules that govern the obstacle, type, and height of the fence.
2. 2 Establish where the boundaries of your property are. This information can be obtained from city records, a realtor's plot boundary map, or by hiring a surveyor.
3. 3 Call 811 from anywhere in the United States. Your local utility companies will send an employee to mark utility lines for free. You don't want to accidentally hit them while digging holes for posts.
4. 4 Review all district fencing regulations. Some neighborhood associations have their own height and style rules in addition to those prescribed by your city.

Method 2 of 11: Mark your fence plan

1. 1 Define property boundaries that border your neighbors. For your post holes, measure about 10 centimeters inside these boundaries. This prevents the concrete poles from encroaching on a neighbor's property.
2. 2 Measure the total length of your planned fence. This determines how many meters of the grid and how many supports you will need.Check with your local dealer for post spacing instructions to determine the number of posts you need.
3. 3 Find the location of each final pillar. Mark the exact spot with a spike or spray paint. The end post refers to any end, corner, or gate posts.

Method 3 of 11: Install the final pillars

1. 1 Dig all the holes for the final posts first. The holes for the posts should be dug 3 times deeper than the width and one third of the length of the posts, with an additional 10 centimeters for gravel. The slope of the sides is such that the hole is wider at the bottom than at the top.
2. 2 Fill the post holes with 10 centimeters of gravel. Compact gravel underneath to provide a compact base for posts and concrete.
3. 3 Place the end post in the center of its hole. Mark the ground level on the side of the post with a marker or chalk. The height above the line should be equal to the height of the fence mesh, plus 5 centimeters.
4. 4 Place the pole vertically. Use a carpentry level or plumb line, position the pole to a plumb line.
5. 5 Lock the post in position. Using clamps and pieces of lumber, secure the post in an upright position rectangularly into the ground.
6. 6 Fill the hole with concrete. Pour or shovel concrete around the post. Smooth the surface with a trowel or small piece of wood, tilting away from the post to direct the water elsewhere.
7. 7 Repeat until all of your final pillars have been installed. Allow the concrete to cure (in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations).

Method 4 of 11: Mark your pillar line

1. 1 Start the thread boundary between the final pillars. The string should be taut, close to the ground, and located on the outside of the final posts.
2. 2 Mark the location of the border of each pillar. Using the pole spacing chart, measure and mark the exact spot with a stake or spray paint.

Method 5 of 11: Setting the border of the pillars

1. 1 Dig holes for the boundary pillars. The openings of the boundary posts should be 12.5 centimeters wide and 45 to 60 centimeters deep, with the sides sloping.
2. 2 Repeat the steps for installing the final post, (see. above) for each boundary pillar.

Method 6 of 11: Add connectors and plugs to posts

1. 1 Slide tension connectors onto each pole. Tension connectors attach the mesh to the posts. Use tension connectors one less than the fence height in meters. For example, if the fence is 1.2 meters high, use 3 tension connectors per pole. For a 1.8m fence, use 5 connectors, and so on.
   • The long, flat surface of the pull connector should face the outside of the fence.
2. 2 Add the appropriate end caps to the posts. End pillars receive end caps. Boundary posts receive plugs with clamps (for the top bar.)
3. 3 Tighten all nuts and bolts, but not too tight. Leave some slack for adjustment.

Method 7 of 11: Installing the top bar

1. 1 Thread the top rungs through the clamp plugs. Cut off excess length with a pipe cutter or hacksaw. If the bars are too short, create longer runs using bars with outer-inner connecting ends.
2. 2 Insert the end bar into the end cap for the cross bar. You may need to adjust the height of the crossbeam end caps to accommodate the height of the net, plus a 5cm gap at the bottom.
3. 3 Tighten nuts and bolts. After checking your top rails and plugs for proper fit and alignment, tighten all hardware.
4. 4 Fill the holes for the boundary posts with soil, place the soil tightly around the holes.

Method 8 of 11: Hang the mesh fence

1. 1 Thread the tension strip vertically through the starting edge of the net roll. This will stiffen the net so you can attach it to fence posts and rungs.
2. 2 Attach a tension strip to one of the final post tension beams. The net should overlap the bar by 2.5 - 5 centimeters and be 5 centimeters from the ground.
   • You will need someone to help you install the mesh to the end post and use a socket wrench to tighten the bolt.
3. 3 Start unwinding the net. Install it in front of the fence frame, removing sagging as you travel.
4. 4 Loosely attach the net to the top bar. Use a bunch of fence to hold it in place. Cut enough length from the roll to cover the gap between the end posts.
5. 5 Splice the sections together as needed. Using one link of wire removed from one end of the mesh, connect the two sections by spiraling the free link over the outer links. The next link may need to be removed to ensure the correct diamond tuning.
6. 6 Remove excess mesh. Using a pair of pliers, twist the top and bottom loops on one link of the wire where you want to split the mesh. Disconnect the released link until the two sections separate.

Method 9 of 11: Tensioning the Mesh

1. 1 Pull the mesh tight with the fence tensioner. Stretching is necessary so that the fence does not sag.
2. 2 Thread a strip of the fence tensioner into the unattached section of the net a short distance from the far end of the post.
   • Attach the fence tensioner bracket to the tension strip and connect the other end of the tensioner to the far end of the post.
   • Stretch the mesh with the fence tensioner until the mesh loops move less than ½ centimeter when squeezed by hand.
   • If the mesh is pulled out of shape while stretching, pull on it to reshape it.
3. 3 Run a second tension strip over the edge of the net near the fence tensioner. This will attach the stretched mesh to the pull bars at the far end of the post.
4. 4 Limit the stretch strip mesh on the stretch bars at the far end of the post.
5. 5 Remove any new excess resulting from stretching.

Method 10 of 11: Knotting and tightening

1. 1 Tie the net to the rungs with aluminum wire. The distance between your knots is 60 centimeters apart along the top bar and 30 centimeters apart on each boundary pillar.

Method 11 of 11: Add tension wire (optional)

1. 1 Pass the tension wire through the bottom tabs of the mesh. The addition of a tension wire prevents animals from diving under the fence.
2. 2 Tighten the tension wire around the end post. Pull the wire tight and wrap it around you next to the post.

Tips

• Use quick setting cement for quicker installation.
• For privacy, use a mesh fence to thread thin, flexible wooden or plastic slats diagonally through the mesh. Protective strips are available in a variety of colors at most hardware stores and home centers.
• The mesh fence can also be attached to wooden posts and beams. In such cases, end caps, clamp caps, or crossbeam caps are not used.
• If the ground slopes up or down at the gate installation site, set the gate posts according to the slope.

Warnings

• For safety reasons, install all nuts on the inside of the fence. This makes it more difficult to remove them from the outside.
• Dig all post holes next to the house or buildings by hand. Unmarked pipes and other lines can be located near the foundation.

What do you need

• Rolls of mesh (sold in rolls of 15 meters).
• Metal top rails, boundary pillars and end pillars (can be replaced with wooden posts and rails).
• Posts, beams and end caps (when using metal posts and beams).
• Stretch strips and stripes.
• Fence tensioner.
• Bonding strips.
• Fence ties.
• Fence gates, hinges and hinge bolts (when installing the gate).
• Nippers.
• Excavator for pillar holes or powerful drill.
• Fasteners and lumber.
• Pipe cutter or hacksaw (for metal pipes) or saw (for wooden posts).
• Rubber hammer.
• Socket wrench.
• A wheelbarrow or small concrete mixer.
• Concrete.
• Shovel and bucket.
• Roulette.
• Level or carpentry plumb line.
• Stakes or spray paint.
• Knitting cord.