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• Part 1 of 3: Preparing your dog for mating
• Part 2 of 3: Creating an ideal mating environment
• Part 3 of 3: Getting the dogs to mate

Getting dogs to mate isn't as easy as putting them together and waiting for it to happen. In fact, breeding dogs is a time consuming and pricey endeavor. Consider pairing your dog only if you think doing so will improve their breed.

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Part 1 of 3: Preparing your dog for mating

1. Have your male mate when he is at least one and a half, and mate your bitch when she has reached her second or third heat. This way you can be sure the dogs are old enough to mate.
   • If you are trying to mate your female dog with a male, try to keep the breeding frequency low. Insert at least one season without mating in between breeding turns. You should do this to ensure that your bitch can rest and regain her strength. A female that reproduces too often often gives birth to weak puppies that have a higher mortality risk.
   • Keep in mind that certain health tests, such as hip and elbow dysplasia tests, cannot be done until the dog is at least two years old. These tests are extremely important and should be taken before you start breeding your dog.
2. Look for the potential health risks of your dog breed. Each breed has a different set of potential hereditary and health risks. Labrador Retrievers, for example, can inherit eye conditions, and German Shepherds often suffer from hereditary hip dysplasia.
   • You will also need to examine the bloodlines to see if your dog could develop other problems quickly.
3. Have your dog's eyes tested. Your vet should check your dog's eyes annually for Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) (which can cause total blindness), Retinal Dysplasia (which will eventually cause blindness), Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA) (usually hereditary), Cataracts (hereditary ) and entropion (where the dog's eyelids fold in or out).
4. Have your dog checked for hip dysplasia. This condition usually affects medium to large breeds, but smaller dog breeds can also be affected, such as Cocker Spaniels and Shelties. Some dogs do not show any symptoms of this condition, but nevertheless should not be bred if affected.
   • Hip dysplasia is a condition in which the dog's hip joint is not properly developed, resulting in an insufficient connection between the head and socket. This condition can lead to arthritic changes that destroy the protective cartilage and cause severe pain.
   • A radiologist will need to take X-rays of the dog's hips to check for hip dysplasia.
5. Have your dog checked for Osteochondrosis Dessicans (OCD), a problem with the elbow joint. The vet will also have to make an X-ray for this. Many dog ​​breeds prone to hip dysplasia are also OCD.
6. Have your smaller dog examined for patellar luxation. This is a condition affecting the dog's kneecaps, where the kneecaps slip out of place and can lock their paws. Smaller dogs are at a higher risk of patellar luxation than larger ones.
   • The diagnosis for this condition is self-explanatory, and the condition can be corrected surgically. However, dogs with patellar luxation should not be bred as it is a hereditary condition.
7. Sterilize your dog if he / she fails the BAER test. For some dogs, deafness can be a problem. If the BAER test is not passed, the dog should not be bred.
8. Have your dog checked for any heart conditions. Many dog ​​breeds need to be tested for heart problems such as subaortic stenosis and other abnormalities of the heart or heart valves.
9. Determine that your dog has the right temperament for his / her breed. Specific behavioral tests have been developed for common breeds, such as the WAC test for Dobermans. There are also several behavioral tests that are available for all dogs. These tests provide an indication of the dog's temperament and level of training.
   • If your dog has behavioral problems, if he / she is suspicious, very aggressive, irritable, or biting, don't breed him / her. You shouldn't do that if the dog is shy or submissive.
   • Breed dogs that are happy, confident, obedient, and get along with other animals.
   • Breeding dogs with behavioral problems has led to the degeneration of the temperament of many dog ​​breeds, such as Doberman Pinchers and Rottweilers.
10. Make sure that both the female and male are tested for brucellosis before breeding. Brucellosis will eventually lead to infertility in both sexes and can cause a litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth.
    • In dogs, brucellosis is often transmitted through sexual intercourse. However, an entire kennel can become infected by coming into contact with secretions.
    • Brucellosis can also occasionally be passed on to humans. This occurs through the urine or feces of an infected dog.
11. Confirm that male and female are in good health prior to breeding. The male must be in excellent health, so do not hesitate to ask the other dog owner for medical information. The female must also be healthy to withstand the stress and rigors of pregnancy. Again, do not hesitate to ask any other dog owner for medical information.
    • The vaccinations of both dogs must be up to date.
    • Note that the owner of the dog is usually not paid for mating. He / she chooses a few puppies from the litter as compensation. The owner of the bitch earns money from the sale of the remaining puppies, but also takes care of all costs - such as the costs for the vet, the board, the worming and the vaccinations.
12. Consider artificial insemination if the dog is inexperienced or very young. Artificial insemination (AI) is increasingly used by veterinarians and breeders to ensure the specific breed characteristics.
    • You can buy artificial insemination kits at the pet store or online.
    • Keep in mind that artificial insemination is not yet as successful as natural mating. Expect a success rate of 65 to 85%. The chance of success is greater with smaller litters.

Part 2 of 3: Creating an ideal mating environment

1. Allow the dogs to mate in the male's home / room. Taking a male dog out of its natural environment is likely to cause insecurity and distraction.
2. Set up a breeding area. This should be a separate and enclosed space in the male's living quarters - preferably outside so that the dogs can mate without being distracted.
   • Normally there should only be two people present - preferably you and the owner of the other dog.
3. Introduce the dogs and let them get to know each other. The mating process should not be rushed. It may take several hours or days for the dogs to get comfortable with each other. How much time you should allow for this depends on how experienced the dogs are in mating, their nature, and the timing of the breeding attempts.
4. Shave the hair from under the bitch's tail. This increases the chance that the dog will be mated, especially if you breed long-haired dogs.
5. Wait until the bitch is in heat or in heat. If you scratch her butt, she will curl her tail sideways, her vulva will start to swell, and you will see vaginal discharge.
   • The female is most fertile nine to twelve days after the start of her heat.

Part 3 of 3: Getting the dogs to mate

1. See if the male is sniffing the bitch's bottom and if she pulls her tail up for him. The sniffing indicates that the male is interested in the female. He may also start licking her vulva and try to mount her if she seems willing and ready.
2. Supervise the dogs at all times to ensure their safety. Keep the dogs on a leash and put a muzzle (soft muzzle) on the bitch, especially if she is still a virgin.
   • Speak to the dogs in a soft, encouraging voice to make sure they feel confident and comfortable. Never yell at them if you are getting frustrated or annoyed by failed attempts at cover.
3. Hold the bitch if she doesn't stay still. She may be overexcited or distracted if the male shows interest in her. To keep her still, you can put her head in the crook of her legs and hold her up with your hands. You can then move her so that she is standing in front of the male.
   • The other owner can keep her tail out of the way.
4. Use lubricant if the male has difficulty penetration. For example, you can smear Vaseline on the female's vulva. Do not attempt to manipulate the male's genitals.
   • Some people try to hold the male and position the penis in such a way that maximum penetration is achieved and injuries are avoided.
5. Allow the male to penetrate the female from behind. The bulbus glandis, part of the dog's penis, will swell and settle in the bitch's vagina.
   • The female has strong sphincter muscles near the opening of the vagina. These can contract around the swollen penis, keeping the penis even more firmly in the vagina.
6. Don't be alarmed if the dogs turn and look the other way while mating. This is known as a "link". In a clutch, the male will usually place one front leg on one side of the female, and lift the other over her back - this is how the dogs end up butting against each other. They are now "coupled" because the male's penis is in the female's vagina.
   • The male's penis can handle this rotation, and coupling is completely natural during mating. The dogs can remain paired for quite a long time - on average between 15 and 45 minutes for most breeds.
   • Since the entire mating process takes at least twenty minutes, it is theorized that this turn is made so that the dogs are not too vulnerable during mating. The dogs' faces and jaws both point outward, adopting an excellent defensive position that will deter any predators and other dogs that may wish to mate with the female.
7. Reassure the female if she becomes vocal during the coupling. During the first part of the coupling, the bitch can express her discomfort. In that case, she will need extra comfort, and will probably need extra restraint.
   • It is very dangerous for the dogs to try to break away during mating before they are physically able to do so. Therefore, hold the female during the coupling to ensure that they cannot separate from each other.
   • When the male has ejaculated, the swelling will subside and the female's vaginal muscles will relax. The dogs will then be able to separate from each other safely.
8. Do not allow the female to urinate for the first 15 minutes after mating. Let the male out until his erection has disappeared and the penis is no longer visible.
9. Allow the dogs to mate again after 48 hours. This increases the chance of successful coverage.