Shaving a horse

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Content

To step
Method 1 of 4: Choosing a shaving model
Method 2 of 4: Prepare your horse
Method 3 of 4: Prepare your shaver
Method 4 of 4: Shave your horse
Tips
Warnings
Necessities

When shaving a horse, you can partially or completely shave the coat. Horses are mainly shaved in the winter because otherwise it is too hot for a horse to be ridden with a thick winter coat. The shaving model depends on the intensity of the training and the thickness of your horse's winter coat. Shaving allows a horse to cool down faster after a workout and makes brushing and grooming easier.

Shaving is also done at horse shows. It looks neat and improves the appearance on a show. This is done in both summer and winter.

To step

Method 1 of 4: Choosing a shaving model

Chest / belly stripe. With this model you remove the hair under the neck and stomach. This is often done with ponies that are on the pasture and are only ridden on weekends. Ponies with good resistance only need a blanket with this model in bad weather.
Low / high stripe model. The coat is shaved below the neck and stomach up to where the harness of a driving pony would begin. As the name implies, the high stripe model removes more fur than the low stripe model. The lower part of the head is also sometimes shaved. The legs are not shaved. This model is suitable for horses that are on the pasture during the day and are regularly trained at a moderate level.
Irish model. A line is drawn from the top of the head to the abdomen to form a triangle. Everything within the triangle is shaved. Often half of the head is also shaved. The legs are not shaved. This model is suitable for horses that are trained at a light level and that are out on the pasture during the day.
Blanket model. This is comparable to a stripe model, but with the blanket model, the neck is completely shaved. The head is shaved half or completely. The legs are not shaved. This is a good model for horses that are trained intensively, as it removes the hair where they sweat, but still leaves enough hair to keep the horse warm.
Yacht model. All hair is removed except for the hair on the legs to provide some protection. Sometimes a saddle cut-out is left to avoid saddle compression. Sometimes the same is done for the area where the girth is, to prevent girth compression. Make sure your horse does not get too cold with this model!
Full body model. With this model, the entire coat is shaved. This is mainly done on competition horses to give them a smooth, shiny coat that dries easily. This model may not be used on horses that are out on the pasture in winter or at night without a suitable (winter) blanket.

Method 2 of 4: Prepare your horse

Brush your horse. Dirt and grime in the horse coat will dull your shaver, so it's important to brush your horse before shaving. If possible, you can wash the horse the night before to remove as much dirt as possible.
Mark the areas to be shaved. Use chalk or masking tape to mark the sections. Make sure you are using straight lines and that you have marked all sections before you start removing hair.
Make sure your horse is not afraid of the sound of the razor. The buzzing sound is something most horses fear, especially horses that have never been shaved. Introduce the horse to the shaver, then turn on the shaver a few steps away from the horse. Show the horse where the sound is coming from.
Let your horse get used to the vibrations. Aside from the buzzing sound, the vibrations emitted by the shaver can also startle your horse. Monitor your horse's reaction by turning on the razor and pushing the vibrating handle onto the side of your horse. This way your horse can feel the vibrations without removing hair.
- If you have a horse that gets upset quickly, you can put your hand between the horse and the handle of the shaver. In this way the horse indirectly feels the vibrations on its skin.

Method 3 of 4: Prepare your shaver

Choose two different shavers. It's good to have at least two pairs of razors with you. You need a larger model that is suitable for wide areas and a small model for shaving sensitive areas such as around the head.
Sharpen your knives. The sharper the blade, the easier it is to shave. When using a new shaver, you probably don't need to sharpen the blades. When using an older shaver or razor, you can sharpen the blades at home or take them away.
Clean and oil the blades. Make sure there is nothing on the knives to interfere with the process; dirt and mud make you shave longer. When the blades are clean, you can lubricate them with oil and turn the device on for 10-20 seconds. This makes shaving smoother.
Monitor the temperature of your shaver. You want the device to maintain a room temperature; if the appliance is too hot, the motor will overheat and it will no longer work as well. If your shaver gets too hot, turn it off and let it cool for a few minutes before using it again.

Method 4 of 4: Shave your horse

Start in an insensitive place. Move your shaver to an area of the horse's body that is less sensitive, such as the neck or the side of the abdomen.
Start shaving. Turn the shaver on for a few seconds without coming into contact with the horse's body. Then move the shaver against the direction of the hair. Try to shave straight lines and finish each time before moving on to other sections. Look at the corners of the razor and make sure you don't accidentally poke your horse with it.
Continue to shave strips. Work in long, narrow sections for best results. Overlap the strips so that you don't get unsightly streaks or spots. If you run into a crown, shave the hair from different angles to remove the crown completely.
Pay extra attention to the area around the mane and tail. When shaving close to the mane or tail, be careful not to accidentally shave some long hair. If necessary, a friend can help you keep the mane or tail away.
Finish shaving the head. If the shaving model you have chosen also requires you to shave the horse's head, save this for last. This will help limit his anxiety while shaving. Use the smaller shaver for shaving the head or other sensitive areas.
Trim the remaining hair. If you do not shave the full body ("full body" model) then there will still be areas where there is still hair. Sometimes it can be quite long. Use toiletry scissors to trim extra long hair on the legs, for example.
Collect the shaved hair. The hair on the ground should be swept up and thrown away. Dispose of the horsehair in the regular trash can instead of in a manure or compost heap; horse hair does not dissolve quickly.
Put a blanket on your horse. Your horse will have to get used to the drastic temperature change from losing his coat, so he will have to put on a blanket when he goes out to pasture. The thickness of the blanket depends on the outside temperature.

Tips

When using inexpensive razor blades, it is helpful to have an extra pair on hand. Cheap razors get dull faster.
Never try to shave your horse for the first time just before an important show or competition. If you want your horse to look tip-top, you better get the help of someone with shaving experience. When you shave for the first time, you have a good chance of smears and streaks.
Start with the chest / belly stripe and work through the low / high stripe model until you arrive at a model that is suitable for your horse. By shaving in steps, your horse will always remain presentable, should you or your horse unexpectedly lose patience.
If you are going for the hunting or "full body" model (not recommended for your first shave) it is smart to have extra blades on hand.
A shaver heats up. Cool the device with coolant. If necessary, switch off the device to cool down properly.
Shave at least (!) A week before a show or competition.
Do not shave in the beginning of spring; this hinders the growth of the summer coat.

Warnings

Some horses are afraid of being shaved, but in this case sedation should only be done when shaving is necessary for the health of the horse.
Always use a switch when working with electrical equipment on horses.
Be careful not to accidentally cut your horse.
Although groomers and razors look the same, trimmers are not powerful enough to shave a horse. Go for a light to medium shaver, depending on the amount of fur you are going to shave. The heavier shavers are for professionals who shave a large number of horses.