How to master the katana

Author: Carl Weaver
Date Of Creation: 25 February 2021
Update Date: 1 July 2024
Anonim
How to Use a Katana Like a REAL Samurai? (Challenges/Tips for the Beginners)
Video: How to Use a Katana Like a REAL Samurai? (Challenges/Tips for the Beginners)

Content

For the sake of clarity, the customs of all Japanese arts have been omitted here, such as showing respect for your weapon or tying hakama (samurai pants). Unless otherwise indicated, "art form", "art" and "form" refer to the art of wielding the Japanese sword.

Steps

  1. 1 Choose an art form. Since everyone has their own particulars of combat, you must find a martial art in which you are competent. If you are not familiar with Japanese martial arts, here are some of the most famous ones:
    • Kenjutsu: training with the samurai katana sword and other weapons (depending on the school) for use in combat.
    • Yaijutsu / buttojutsu are meant for fighting. Used to defeat the enemy during or immediately after drawing the sword.
    • Kendo: the art of Japanese fencing. Fought the Shinai using armor.
    • Iyado / battodo: the art of withdrawing the sword.
    • Almost every art form has its own style. Again, choose the one that works best for you.
  2. 2 Collect the equipment you need. Equipment depends on the type of art. Among the types of weapons, the following are known:
    • Shinai: A bamboo sword for kendo consisting of bamboo tied together. Used in kejutsu, where bokken would be too dangerous, or in kendo.
    • Bokken: Wooden practical swords very reminiscent of katana or wakizashi. Safe alternative to the combat sword. It is the most commonly used weapon in kenjutsu.
    • Tanto: Japanese dagger with a length of 30 to 60 cm.
    • Wakizashi: short sword with a length of 45 to 60 cm.
    • Katana: A sword just over 1 meter long.
    • Ninjato: The cousin of the katana, only with a straight blade.
    • Nodachi / Odachi: A really long katana that is between 85 and 150 cm long!
  3. 3 Take books. Once you've picked the art you're interested in and the gear you need, pick up related textbooks and do some research. Books should be used IN COMBINATION with a qualified teacher! Trying to learn the tricks on your own is strongly discouraged as it can ruin your foundations.
  4. 4 Find Sensei (Martial Master). It is impossible to learn art without a teacher. Find a dojo or school to study your desired art.
  5. 5 Exercise. Practice kata, or a sequence of movements, before you can do it quickly and efficiently. Find yourself a training partner if necessary. Then, if allowed, move on to others. Don't forget the old ones.
  6. 6 Get real (or at least better) weapons. Once you feel confident in yourself, get a better (which usually means more dangerous) weapon.
    • Choosing a katana:
      • The choice of katana is mainly a matter of taste: some prefer the heavier, others lighter. Ask a senior friend or your sensei where is the best place to buy a katana.
      • Use the internet and learn about the various details of a katana and how it is made, and you will be able to explain the difference between different quality katanas.
      • Choose a suitable kissaki (tip) of the blade. Different arts require different kissaki sizes. Find out what is required for your art form. Common types of kissaki are o-kissaki, chu-kissaki and kk-kissaki, which correspond to large, medium and small sizes. The size of a kissaki can usually be determined simply by looking at the blade. Point the tip of the blade up and look at the sword from the side. Notice how the blade tapers towards the end and forms an angle with the corresponding straight blunt edge of the sword. If the angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is o-kissaki. If the angle is approximately 45 degrees, it is chu-kissaki. It is not hard to imagine what a ko-kissaki looks like.
      • Choose a suitable sori (bend). Blade bending requirements vary from shape to shape. The sori model differs not only in the degree of curvature, but also in where the deepest part of the bend is in relation to the tsuka (handle) or kissaki.
      • Choose a design. By design, I mean the aesthetic appearance of the sword. Believe it or not, the aesthetic of a weapon affects how you use it. Choose a sword that suits your taste, but not enough that you care too much about it. Choosing an unattractive sword can potentially lead to a lack of interest in your weapon.
      • The only things that can be cut during this time period are the items used for tameshigiri (trial cutting). This technique is taught if you choose kenjutsu and yaijitsu, but as far as I know, it is not taught in kendo.

Tips

  • Bokken is a very effective teaching tool. It will actually make swinging a real sword easier on many occasions.
  • Correctly withdrawing a shinken, or warblade, makes no sound. The bad produces all kinds of sounds. Work with a new blade or use new techniques until you learn not to scratch the sai (scabbard). The biggest mistake when removing a weapon is when it is pulled up, comes out and can cut the Saya sheath.
  • Do not hurry. Hurriedly studying techniques and species without mastering the concept as a whole will lead to a number of problems. Chopping quickly is not as important as chopping correctly.
  • Retreat. Not everything is solid like a stone. If you find something special to be uncomfortable, experiment until you find one that works for you, but don't change it so much that it is far from the original.
  • Hold the sword correctly. The right hand (or your working hand) should be directly under the tsuba (protective metal plate), and the left (or non-working) hand should be as far away from the right as possible. The smallest fingers should grip tighter, the pressure should decrease up the arm, and finally, the index finger should just rest on the grip rather than gripping it. When swinging, the left hand should pull while the right hand guides the left. When swinging the sword, grasp it with your hand more tightly, making the hand and hilt into one piece. If done correctly, this will create a shearing and sawing motion at the same time.
  • The high (grooves) on the sword will make it lighter, thus compromising the integrity of a poorly executed cut. The grooves are present, because the material has been deleted.
  • The katana is not designed to block and can chop off on impact, as its edge is made of solid steel. The only way you could damage the cutting edge is by blocking the impact. Blocking when using a katana is done with the moon, or the trailing edge of the blade. It is best to step back when you deflect a sword strike. You should try to use it to deflect the blow and let it slide, instead of stopping together, touching the blades, which will really twist your katana if you're not careful. For every type of kiri slash or tsuki attack, there is a sliding block defense.
  • Look for someone to practice, it helps a lot when sparring.
  • After handling your sword, it is best to wipe it down with a clean cloth and apply a thin layer of oil. From the traditional point of view, you can use choji oil, although mineral oil works well too. A few drops of oil on a clean cloth will do the trick - no need to soak the katana. Be careful when brushing your sword - give it your full attention and continue your conversation when you are finished brushing. People will understand.
  • In fact, mastering any kind of martial art can take over 50 years. Be patient if you really want to learn art.

Warnings

  • Don't try to "catch" the falling sword. If you are unlucky and you drop the blade, move away immediately - it can bounce in any direction. If you try to grab a falling sword, you may need help getting your fingers off the floor.
  • Don't buy stainless steel katanas. They are usually decorative and prone to shattering, which can be potentially dangerous to anyone on the line of sight when (and it HAPPENS) it breaks. If you need to buy, then take a katana made of solid steel.
  • A real katana is known to be capable of completely destroying other types of weapons.Typically, every target hit by a katana is fatal. Do not use a real katana for a match unless you and your partner are professional or intend to die.
  • Don't provoke or threaten others with your art. In addition to the fact that the threat can be a felony, many others are proficient or even superior to you in one or more martial arts. Provocation is potentially harmful to your health. Finally, don't be tough or macho just because you have a sword.
  • Do not attack until you are attacked, in which case the subsequent murder (by you) will be justified. Use common sense.
  • Test your sword! If any part of it is not captured, let someone with more experience take a look. If you don't know anyone, write a letter to the local dojo and ask if they would agree to test your sword. You will not be able to stop the blade flying out of the handle.
  • Do not attempt to repair the sword unless the breakage is minor to you.
  • Katana, wakizashi and tanto must be legally registered. Check with a lawyer before purchasing.
  • Do not, under any circumstances, buy a real weapon if you do not know how to skillfully handle a training weapon. Weapons, even at your disposal, can easily turn against you if you are incompetent.
  • Don't buy a gun if you haven't handled it personally and don't know if it's right for you.
  • Do not study art for the purpose of revenge or for the execution of violent crimes. This is extremely shameful and, no doubt, you will not become as competent as real students.
  • Carrying a weapon that could be construed as threatening or intimidating is, in certain jurisdictions, waving a weapon. Again, check with a lawyer before doing this.
  • DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES use your blade to check if it cuts objects. Take a word from everyone - it cuts. This includes packages of water, food, bricks, cans, tree branches and any other items that people are known to experience cutting force on. There are two reasons for this; one - an inept cut will irreparably ruin your blade, two - if you make a mistake, it can lead to the loss of a finger or a deep wound before you even realize that you are bleeding. Even craftsmen sometimes have oversights, but in order to minimize the likelihood of injury and maximize the life of your blade, only cut carefully prepared goza, or rolled tatami.
  • It is not recommended to use any martial art when you are under the influence of inhibitors or, conversely, incapacitates, in a state of illness, disorder or disability.
  • Don't study art on your own. One mistake in the learning process will snowball and make your art skills potentially dangerous for you.

What do you need

  • Respect for your weapons and training partners (most importantly, be patient)
  • Books
  • Armor (if sparing)
  • Sensei
  • Weapon (varies by species)