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• Part 1 of 3: Maintaining the aquatic environment of the aquarium
• Part 2 of 3: Caring for and feeding your fish
• Part 3 of 3: Recognizing the symptoms of an infection or illness

To keep the fish in your tank from dying, keep them healthy and happy. You may have fish in a bowl or in a large tank with other fish. While most fish require relatively little care as pets, you need to take certain steps to ensure that your fish can live a healthy and happy life.

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Part 1 of 3: Maintaining the aquatic environment of the aquarium

1. Filter or treat the aquarium water. To keep your fish healthy in their environment, keep the aquarium water clean and free of toxins. Fish can produce more waste than plants or bacteria can handle, and this waste can lead to toxic or harmful chemical build-up in the aquarium if not filtered or disposed of.
   • If you have a fish in a bowl, you must treat the tap water that you put in the bowl first so that it is safe for your fish to live in. Treat tap water with water conditioner and a pinch of aquarium salt before putting it in the fishbowl. The salt will help kill bacteria in the water and keep the water clean for your fish. Do not use iodized salt as it is harmful to your fish.
   • If you have an aquarium, you will need to install a filtration system in the aquarium to keep the water clean for your fish. Before putting fish in the aquarium, you need to dechlorinate the water and install a filtration system. The water must be able to run through the aquarium several times; only put a few fish in the tank at a time so that the filtration system is not overloaded with waste from the fish for processing. This will help prevent the "new aquarium syndrome" that can kill your fish.
2. Provide the correct constant temperature for the aquarium water. Keeping fish in water that is too warm or too cold can lead to high stress on your fish and suppress the immune system. This can then predispose your fish to infections and diseases. The required water temperature depends on the type of fish. If you have a tropical fish, the water temperature should be around 24 degrees Celsius. Tropical fish can handle temperature fluctuations in the water to a certain extent. A goldfish, on the other hand, can live in water temperatures of 20-22 degrees Celsius. The most important thing is to avoid rapid, dramatic changes in the water temperature and to maintain a water temperature that is comfortable for your fish.
   • Different types of tropical fish may require different temperatures, so always check that you are creating the right environment first.
   • When buying fish, the seller should recommend a reliable aquarium heater to keep the water temperature constant. You can also install a thermometer to check the temperature of the aquarium or fishbowl. After preparing your tank, wait a few days before placing all of the fish to allow the water temperature to stabilize. Check with the seller to make sure that the tank or bowl you buy for your fish is large enough to serve as a habitat, otherwise it could be dangerous for the fish.
   • If the water is too warm for a fish, it may show certain symptoms, such as moving wildly or becoming hyperactive when it is not feeding time. If your fish is moving very slowly, seems to shiver, or is losing interest in food, the water may be too cold. Adjust the temperature of the water so that it is as ideal as possible for the type of fish you have.
3. Make the bowl or aquarium fish-friendly. Adding decorations to your fish bowl or tank can help reduce stress for your fish and provide a pleasant environment for them to swim around in.
   • Add a plant, real or plastic, to your fishbowl. This will give your fish a shelter, which they will certainly appreciate. If you place live plants with the fish, watch out for rotting leaves. You should always remove or cut them away so that they do not pollute the water. You can also add rocks and broken clay pots to give your fish more hiding places and make them feel more secure.
4. Replace 10-15% of the water per week. This will help remove built-up waste and decaying organic matter from excess food and plants or fish feces. A partial weekly water change also removes toxins from the water and keeps the water cleaner.
   • Do not remove aquarium plants or decorations from the aquarium or bowl if not necessary. Removing or cleaning these items can kill the beneficial bacteria filtering your tank and reduce the quality of your filtration system. There is also no need to remove your fish from the tank or bowl when changing some of the water. This can otherwise stress your fish and expose it to harmful bacteria.
   • Partially replace the water by changing 10-15% of the water with dechlorinated tap water. You can use a siphon to suck up gunk from the gravel and decorations. Clean 25-33% of the gravel and decorations with the siphon. In addition, use a scraper to remove algae from the surface of the aquarium or ornaments before changing some of the water.
   • If you have a fish tank of less than 38 liters, you should change 50-100% of the water at least twice a week or every other day. If your fishbowl does not have a filter, you should change all the water at least once a day to get all waste and toxins out of the water.A bowl lid, or filter, can reduce the number of times you need to change the water each day and protect your fish from getting an infection or disease.
   • Check the water once a day for fog, foam, or an unusual odor. These can all be signs of bacterial contamination and require a complete water change.

Part 2 of 3: Caring for and feeding your fish

1. Feed the fish small meals on a regular basis. Your fish is naturally used to eating small, frequent meals. This is simulated by feeding him small meals throughout the day instead of just one moment of feeding a lot. Small feedings also put less strain on your aquarium's filtration system.
   • Most fish food is formulated to meet the full needs of your fish. Ask your local pet store to recommend fish food based on the type of fish.
2. Treat your fish to a salt bath. A salt bath can be beneficial for the overall health of your fish. However, if your fish requires other medications, only give a salt bath for the other medications.
   • Sea salt, kosher salt, aquarium salt and pure Morton's rock salt are recommended. If possible, use natural sea salt without additives, because it is rich in minerals.
   • Use a container that is clean and free from contamination. Add aquarium water to the tank as long as the aquarium water is safe to use, or add fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Make sure that the temperature of the water in the tank is the same as the temperature of the water in the aquarium, with a margin of three degrees.
   • Add a teaspoon of salt for every four liters of water. Dissolve the salt well in the water and then place your fish in the tank with salt water.
   • Keep your fish in the salt water for one to three minutes and observe them in the salt bath. If your fish are not showing signs of stress, such as swimming quickly or making jerky movements, return your fish to the tank.
3. Add chlorophyll to the aquarium. Chlorophyll is considered a medicine for goldfish and can help promote the immune system and the health of your fish. Buy pure liquid chlorophyll from the pet store. It usually comes in drops.
   • Give your goldfish a bath of chlorophyll in its tank, according to the instructions on the bottle. You can also give your goldfish chlorophyll by adding it to its feeding gel.

Part 3 of 3: Recognizing the symptoms of an infection or illness

1. Watch for white-green threads on the skin of your fish. This is a symptom of anchor worms, small crustaceans that burrow into the skin of your fish and enter the muscles. There they leave eggs and then die, which damages the fish and makes it susceptible to infection.
   • Fish can also scratch against objects to try to remove the anchor worms, and the areas where the anchor worms attach to your fish can swell.
   • To treat anchor worms, you need to remove the parasite from your fish and clean the wound with an antiseptic, such as iodine. A five-minute seawater bath a day can also force the parasite to let go.
2. Look for a layer of mucus that may be on the gills and body of your fish, or gills or fins that have been chewed on. These can be symptoms of parasites, 1 mm long flatworms. Flatworms develop as a result of unwanted environmental conditions, such as poor water quality, overcrowding or stress. These flatworms are often present in aquariums but remain harmless unless stressful conditions lead to an outbreak.
   • Your fish may also scratch against objects to try to get rid of the flatworms, or may have red skin or drooping fins. In addition, the gills can move quickly and the abdomen may be hollow.
   • You can treat flatworms with a professional parasite guard. Always follow the directions on the packaging. You can also treat any secondary infections from the flatworms with antibiotics or an anti-fungal solution.
3. Check if your fish have protruding scales or look bloated. These are the symptoms of dropsy, a bacterial infection in the kidneys of your fish. It can lead to kidney failure and fluid retention or a bloated appearance. It often occurs in fish that have been weakened due to poor water conditions.
   • To treat this, you may need to use antibiotics or medicated feed from a veterinarian. You should also maintain preventive care by regularly changing the water, maintaining an ideal temperature, and adding aquarium salt to the water.
4. Notice if your fish are covered in white spots or spots that look like salt or sand. This is a white dot mark. The spots may be slightly raised and your fish are likely to rub against objects in the tank because of the irritated and itchy skin. Your fish may also have respiratory problems and seem to gasp on the surface of the aquarium water. Especially fish that are stressed by irregular water temperature and pH changes will be sensitive to white spot.
   • To treat or cure white spot in a goldfish, you can use a medicinal treatment available at the pet store. You can also prevent white spot development by maintaining a constant water temperature, cleaning the tank weekly, and adding aquarium salt to the tank.
5. Check to see if your fish's flukes are frayed or faded. These are all signs of a bacterial infection that will cause your fish's fins, tail, and mouth to rot. Rot usually occurs in fish that are bullied by other fish in the tank, or injured by an aquarium mate who bites. A poor aquarium environment can also contribute to the development of rot.
   • Treat rot by testing the quality of the water in the aquarium and changing some of the water. You can apply a multipurpose treatment to help heal stuck or damaged fins. Add one tablespoon of aquarium salt to four quarts of water to the tank to help prevent rot in your fish.