How to breed frogs

Video: How To Breed Poison Dart Frogs: Dendrobates Tinctorius

Content

Steps
Part 1 of 3: Setting up a tadpole abode
Part 2 of 3: Tadpole Care
Part 3 of 3: Caring for your frogs
Tips
Warnings
What do you need

Frogs are distinguished by the widest variety of species among animals, several thousand species all over the world from desert frogs to aquatic ones. Children can enjoy catching tadpoles from a nearby stream and raising them until they turn into frogs. Other frog owners love to watch the development and life of an exotic pet, sometimes for over 20 years. Because of their incredible variety, and due to some restrictions on frog ownership and breeding in your national or regional law in your country, study the frog species to find out which ones are right for you before buying or catching an animal.

Steps

Part 1 of 3: Setting up a tadpole abode

1 Research tadpole rearing laws in your country. In many countries and regions, an amphibian license is required before it is legal to breed tadpoles or frogs. Some types of frogs are prohibited from growing, under any circumstances, as they are usually endangered species.Search the website for detailed information on national and regional laws, or contact your national conservation or natural resources department.
- Australia has particularly strict frog laws and varies from state to state. A brief analysis of the laws of each state can be found here.
- If you buy tadpoles from a pet store, you can ask the store staff about the previously mentioned laws in your country.
2 Find a plastic or glass container. Small and wide will be better than tall and narrow, because the more the surface of the water is exposed, the more oxygen enters the water. At the pet store, you can purchase a plastic pet container, or use a plastic or polystyrene container. Do not use metal tanks and do not draw tap water.
- Try to find a large container to avoid overcrowding with tadpoles. Use a plastic paddling pool if you are going to breed a lot of them.
- Even frog eggs may not survive if kept in a small container, although the reasons for this are unclear.
3 Fill container with pond water, rainwater, or dechlorinated tap water. Tadpoles need clean water or they can die if placed in tap water that hasn't removed chlorine and other chemicals. It is best to use water from a tadpole pond or rainwater. If you cannot get this water, add dechlorination tablets purchased from a pet store to your tap water, or leave the water tank in direct sunlight for 1-7 days to break down the chlorine.
- Do not use rainwater if your area is suffering from acid rain or industrial facilities nearby.
- If your tap water contains fluoride, additional cleaners may be needed to remove fluoride before the water is safe for tadpoles.
4 Add sand. Some tadpole species feed on small food particles in the sand, and thrive in a 1.25 cm deep container of clean sand. You can use fine, mild gravel for your aquarium, or collect sand from the riverbank.
- Sand is not recommended to be collected from beaches and quarries as it contains dangerous levels of salts and other substances. In order to clear the sand of harmful substances, fill small tanks (not a container with tadpoles) halfway with sand and fill to the top with water. Let it brew for 24 hours, drain the water and then repeat this with fresh water, at least six times.
5 Add rocks and plants, including the ability to rise to the surface of the water. Almost every tadpole species needs a way to get out of the water as soon as it turns into a frog, since they can no longer remain under water indefinitely. A good option for this is the stones that come out above the water. Algae collected from a pond or purchased from a pet store will provide oxygen and provide a hiding place for the tadpoles. But do not cover the water surface with them by more than 25%, as they can block the flow of air into the water.
- Note: Place rocks closer to the edges of the tank, as some frog species only seek land at the edges of the water, not in the center.
- Do not use algae that has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals, as these can kill the tadpoles.
6 Maintain a stable water temperature. Tadpoles, like aquarium fish, are sensitive to changes in temperature, and can die from sudden changes in the temperature of the water in which they are placed from the water in which they previously lived. If you buy tadpoles or frog eggs from the pet store, ask what temperature the water should be. If you collect them in a stream or body of water, use a thermometer to measure its temperature. Try to keep the water temperature in your tank as close as possible.
- If you are unable to consult an expert to identify your species and provide more detailed information, try to keep water temperatures between 15–20ºC.
- Be prepared to move the tank indoors before the cold weather. Keep it in partial shade if it gets too hot.
7 Consider a reservoir aerator. If your container is wide and the algae in the sand does not cover the surface of the water, they are probably getting enough oxygen from the air and an extra aerator can cause the tadpoles to bloat. If you only breed a few tadpoles, they tend to get enough oxygen even under less than ideal conditions. If you are breeding a large number of tadpoles and the conditions described above are different from yours, you can add an aquarium aerator to circulate air in the tank.
8 Buy frog eggs or tadpoles. By considering regional and local laws, you can also fish tadpoles or frog eggs from a pond or stream. Another option is to buy them at a pet store, do not buy exotic and imported species if you are going to release your tadpoles. Frogs can live for many years and will need a lot of attention, so it is recommended that you breed native frogs first.
- Use a soft landing net or small bucket to scoop up the tadpoles and place them in a portable container filled with water where they can swim. Tadpoles can get damaged or scratched and cannot breathe without water.
- Roughly speaking, each 2.5cm tadpole will need 3.8 liters of water, but keep in mind that tadpoles will grow larger before they become adult frogs. An overfilled reservoir can cause illness or lack of oxygen.
9 Place the eggs or tadpoles in a new container, but only after the water temperatures are equal. If your container has a different water from that in which they lived, place a portable container of tadpoles with old water on the surface of the water of the new tank, but keep the container so that the water of different temperatures does not mix. Leave the container until the temperatures in both tanks equal, then lower the tadpoles into their new container.

Part 2 of 3: Tadpole Care

1 Feed the tadpoles some soft, leafy greens. Tadpoles develop better on soft vegetation, which is served to them in very small quantities when they run out of food. Feed the tadpoles with algae leaves, which you can collect in a stream or at the bottom of a pond. Also, thoroughly rinse young spinach leaves (do not use old spinach), dark green lettuce, or papaya leaves, chop them into small pieces and freeze them before feeding. Check with your local pet store or online for information on other types of plants before feeding.
- Fish food flakes are not as good as natural plants, but you can use them if they are based on spirulina or other plants rather than animal protein. Chop the large flakes into small pieces and give a pinch daily.
2 Rarely feed your tadpoles with insects. Sometimes tadpoles need to be fed some animal protein, although their digestive system cannot digest more than themselves. To safely feed protein supplements, make sure the tadpoles can eat them by feeding them frozen food intended for fry, such as bloodworms or daphnia, and in small amounts once a week. You will be able to feed them a large number of insects as soon as they become frogs, although they will not be able to feed for a while immediately after metamorphosis.
- Fry feed is sold wherever live fish is sold.
3 Change the water regularly. When the water becomes cloudy or odor appears, or tadpoles accumulate on the surface of the water in the tank, it is time to change the water. Make sure to use the same type of water that the tadpoles live in and treat with dechlorination tablets if necessary. Leave the new water until it reaches the temperature of the existing water in the tank, as temperature changes can kill the tadpoles. Change 30-50% of the water at a time.
- The water will stay cleaner for longer if you don't feed the tadpoles large amounts of food at one time. The difference between meals should be no more than 12 hours.
- Do not use an aquarium filter to keep the tank clean, unless it is so weak that it cannot move the tadpoles or force them to swim upstream. For safety, sponge filters can be used.
4 Provide calcium. Holovatics need calcium to form their skeletons, and they may not be able to get it in their regular diet. Pet stores sometimes sell shells for this purpose, which must be rinsed thoroughly before adding to the tank and left there for a long time. Alternatively, you can use aquarium grade liquid calcium, adding dropwise per liter of water each time you change the water.
- One 10cm shell is enough for a small tank.
5 Prepare for metamorphosis. Depending on the species and age, tadpoles can become frogs within a couple of weeks or several months. After their legs appear, the tail falls off, the frogs must get out of the water. Make a prepared plan as soon as you notice changes in your tadpoles:
- Most frogs cannot breathe underwater indefinitely, so make sure there are rocks or non-metallic rises in the tank so that air can be reached. Several species of frogs are unable to climb on their legs once their tail falls off, so you may need to lift them up with a soft net.
- Attach a safety cover with plenty of air holes to the aquarium. Place heavy objects on it if there are no snaps on it to prevent frogs from jumping out.
6 Learn how to release frogs. If you have caught tadpoles in your area, you can release the frogs in an area of high humidity, near the same source where you found them. If you can't release them right away, keep them in a plastic container with a lid, place fallen leaves and enough bark for cover. Do not fill the container with water, but provide a container of liquid to sit next to while sprinkling water on the side of the container once a day.
- If you want to keep your raised frogs, or need to care for them for more than a day before you release them, skip to the next section.

Part 3 of 3: Caring for your frogs

1 Find out about the needs of your frog species before purchasing an animal. Some frog species require extensive grooming, so make sure you are familiar with your frog's needs before purchasing a new pet. If you are a beginner, you can start with non-venomous species that do not grow to a large adult size. Most frogs do not like to walk on their hands or they remain a large part of the time not attractive to children.
- You can choose native species of frogs that you can legally release into the wild if you change your mind about growing.
- Be aware that some national or regional authorities require a license to keep amphibians, or even prohibit raising frogs. Check the laws on the Internet that apply in your area.
2 Find out whether your frog is terrestrial, aquatic or amphibian. Many frog species require access to land and water for development, so two parts of the tank may be required to allow the frog to move from one part to the other. Others need only a saucer of liquid, near which they can sit, while the third species can breathe completely underwater, even adults. Make sure you are familiar with your frog's needs in order to establish a terrarium.
- If you have taken your frogs from the wild, ask a biologist or other specialist from the closest conservation department to identify your frog species.
3 Find a glass or plastic pet container. Glass aquariums or terrariums work best for most frog species. Cleaned plastic containers are fine too, but keep in mind that some frog species need UV light, which can destroy plastic over time. Make sure the tank is waterproof and cannot be escaped, however it contains many air holes or a mesh for ventilation.
- Do not use a metal mesh for ventilation, as frogs can be injured by it.
- For tree frogs and other climbing frogs, choose a tall tank with room for branches and climbing gear.
4 Maintain temperature and humidity in the enclosure. Whether or not your enclosure needs to be heated or humidified depends a lot on your frog species and local climate, so consult an expert or search online for more information on the correct temperature for your species. If you need to adhere to a certain humidity, consider purchasing a hygrometer to measure it, when the moisture level drops, you will spray the walls of the terrarium with water in time.
- In a double tank (water and earth), an effective way to retain heat is to heat the water in a part of the aquarium.
5 Cover the bottom of the tank with natural soil. Regardless of where, on land or in the water, the toad needs natural soil to live. Once again, what kind of soil is needed depends on the type. A pet store clerk or an experienced frog owner who knows your frog species may recommend sand, gravel, peat, moss, or a mixture of these.
- Burrowing frog species need a thick layer of soil to bury themselves.
6 Provide UV light if needed. Some frog species require 6 to 8 hours of UV light a day, so check your species to find out from your pet store what UV light is good for you if needed. There are many types of devices that can overheat your tank or deliver the wrong wavelengths of light.
- When it comes to regular artificial lighting, fluorescent lamps generate less heat and therefore do not dry out the frog's skin as quickly as heating lamps.
7 Provide purified water and change it regularly. For terrestrial species, provide a saucer of rainwater or other large enough support with safe water depths up to the frog's shoulders. If your frog species require a double tank or a full tank, an aquarium will do the trick. Use rainwater or frog-safe water, put an aerator and a water filter in the aquarium, and replace 30-50% of clean water at the same temperature, when the water becomes cloudy or when odors appear. For best results, change the water once every 1 to 3 weeks, depending on how full the aquarium is.
- Use dechlorination tablets and, if necessary, a fluoride filter to clean your tap water so that it can be used safely with the frog. Do not use tap water if you have copper pipes, so copper build-up can be toxic to frogs.
- If your tank keeps warm, if necessary for some species, heat clean, cold water in a stainless saucepan to the required temperature. Do not use hot tap water.
8 Add plants and branches as needed. Aquarium algae will help purify and oxygenate the water and provide a hiding place for frogs. Climbing frogs require natural or artificial branches to hang upside down from the tree bark, while most large frogs like hiding spots.
9 Choose appropriate food, live food. In the wild, almost all frog species feed on insects, and eating a variety of insects is generally a good idea. Generally, worms, crickets, moths, and insect larvae are appropriate food, and many frogs are not picky about food if they are not already on a certain diet; however, it is always best to check what food is needed to match the frog's mouth size. Mice or other meat of a similar type can put a strain on the organs of the frog, if it is not a large frog species that is adapted to consume this type of protein.
- Do not feed on large ants that can kill the frog.
- Many frogs do not recognize non-moving food, but you can try feeding the frog yourself with tweezers on non-living insects.
10 Add calcium and vitamin supplements for amphibians to the feed. Frogs need a source of calcium, vitamins, and both. Because they don't get enough of these nutrients from insects alone. Vitamin and calcium supplements for amphibians are available in powder form to spray on insects before feeding. There are a wide variety of such supplements available and the best choice depends on the frog's diet and characteristics. As a rule, calcium and vitamin supplements are used separately, watch their expiration dates, and avoid phosphorus concentrations if crickets are the main diet of frogs.
- It might be a little easier if you put a small amount of insects in a jar of powder additive and shake it to coat all the insects with the powder.
11 Choose feeding times according to the age of the frog and the climate. Your frog's exact needs depend on its species, but you can follow these guidelines if you don't have a clear indication of what fits your species. Young frogs may not feed at all after metamorphosis, but soon begin to quickly feed on the food available to them. Adults feed, ideally, once every three or four days for 4-7 insects, suitable for their size. In cooler times of the year, frogs don't need that much food.
- When you see dead insects floating on the surface of the water, remove them.
12 Know how to tame your frog. Many frogs do not like touch, your hands can irritate them, or they can be injured from contact with your skin. However, if your frog is of this kind, who are calm, to pick them up. Examine your view to see if it is safe for your hands. Even if gloves are not required, wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling it, and rinse more than twice to remove any traces of soap or lotion.

Tips

If the tadpoles do not eat lettuce, boil it for 10-15 minutes, it will soften, before chopping it and freezing it.
Use an antifungal spray diluted one-third with water if frog eggs are downy mildew.

Warnings

The leaves of trees such as oleander or pine trees can wreak havoc on the tadpoles. Keep your tank away from trees to reduce the risk and thus make it easier to empty the container.
Remove immediately the larvae of mosquitoes that lay them on the surface of the water, they are carriers of diseases.
If you see snails in the tadpole tank, remove them immediately and change the water completely.Snails in some regions may contain parasites, which can cause deformations in adult frogs.