Grooming guinea pigs

Author: John Pratt
Date Of Creation: 16 April 2021
Update Date: 22 June 2024
Anonim
A GUIDE TO GROOMING GUINEA PIGS - Brushing Hair, Trimming Hair & Cutting Nails
Video: A GUIDE TO GROOMING GUINEA PIGS - Brushing Hair, Trimming Hair & Cutting Nails

Content

Guinea pigs are small pets, but they require plenty of space, time, work and human interaction. If you want to give your guinea pig a good home with good nutrition, attention, living space, grooming and medical care, you will be rewarded with a happy, healthy and very nice guinea pig.

To step

Part 1 of 4: Preparations

  1. Buy or make a big enough buy. For one guinea pig, you should provide more than 2 square meters (even that is on the small side), or more than 3 square meters for two guinea pigs. The bigger the cage, the better.
    • The cage should have a solid bottom (not mesh) to protect the guinea pig's delicate feet.
    • A lid is not necessary if the sides of the cage are at least 30 - 35 cm high.
    • Be careful with multi-story cages. A fall higher than 6 inches can damage your guinea pig's legs, and older guinea pigs in particular should only be kept in low cages.
    • Place an underlay of a few centimeters of paper or wood chips on the bottom and change it at least twice a week, preferably more often if the environment is damp.
  2. Find a good place for the cage. A place where the family spends a while several times a day is the best place. A living room, bedroom or hallway is the best choice because many people come there.
    • Guinea pigs are very sensitive to temperatures, so most vets recommend keeping them indoors, with the added benefit of having more people around them. There are also experts who believe that a guinea pig should be exposed to sunlight on a regular basis. The best balance of indoors and outdoors depends on various factors, such as the season. Talk to your vet to make the best choices for the type of guinea pig you have.
    • Make sure that no one can trip over, knock over, or push the cage.
    • Do not put the cage in the garage, as guinea pigs can get sick or even die from the exhaust fumes, and the temperature is usually not properly regulated in a garage.
  3. Get two or more guinea pigs so they are not lonely. Guinea pigs need company because they are herd animals. Spend some time with your pets every day. If you take just one, it can get depressed.
    • You can take two females, two neutered males or two siblings who have never been divorced.
    • You can also have a male and a female, but be aware that they may have babies. If you think the female is pregnant, separate your guinea pigs and call the vet for instructions.

Part 2 of 4: Food and drink

  1. Give your guinea pigs plenty of water. One of the most important things in caring for a pet is providing it with fresh, clean water.
    • Keep your guinea pigs' water bottle clean and change the water every day. The best bottle is a special guinea pig / rabbit bottle, with a small ball in the spout. A dog bowl that has never been used for a dog can also work, as can the bowl low enough for the guinea pig to put its feet on the edge and reach the water with its head. Make sure that the guinea pig can defecate or urinate in the bowl. The best is a hanging water bottle and a raised food bowl.
    • Regularly clean the spout of the water bottle with a cotton swab to keep food debris from building up for bacteria to grow in and to keep it from getting clogged.
    • You can clean the water bottle itself by adding uncooked rice and some water, and then shaking it vigorously. The rice releases any green deposits (algae).
    • If the cage is in the sun for part of the day, it can also contribute to more algae growth. If so, cover the bottle with a translucent cloth.
    • Do not add anything to the water, such as vitamin tablets. These do not provide your guinea pig with essential nutrients and may prevent your guinea pig from wanting to drink it.
  2. Make sure your guinea pigs have grass hay at all times. Guinea pigs are grazers, so they must have something to graze (such as timothy grass or goiter hay), otherwise their digestion may shut down. But be careful, sharp pieces of hay can damage the eyes, so always flatten it so that nothing sticks out.
    • Alfalfa hay should only be fed to babies 6 months or younger, and pregnant or nursing sows, because it contains many extra nutrients that healthy adult guinea pigs do not need and can even be harmful.
    • Give guinea pigs over 6 months old hay, dried plantain, dandelion or nettle. Always keep hay in the cage so your guinea pig can eat it whenever he wants.
    • Shortage of hay can lead to dental abnormalities that must be corrected surgically, and it can stop digestion, which can lead to death.
  3. Give your guinea pigs fresh vegetables every day. Leafy green vegetables should make up about 20% of your guinea pigs' diet. But don't give them too much as it can lead to stomach problems and diarrhea. It is helpful to ask your vet for a list of vegetables that your guinea pig can safely eat.
    • Guinea pig food must contain a lot of vitamin C (because guinea pigs cannot produce vitamin C themselves, and a shortage of this can lead to diseases).
    • Vegetables that are good for guinea pigs include celery, carrots, tomatoes, cucumber, corn, kale, a little bit of broccoli, and small amounts of spinach and peas. Do not overfeed them with certain vegetables, as this can damage the digestive system.Some fruits are also good for guinea pigs, such as strawberries and apple pieces, but only occasionally, as the acids can be harmful.
    • If your guinea pig doesn't want to eat vegetables, cut it into very small pieces. Also, make sure your guinea pig has their own preferences, so it will like some things better than others.
    • Vegetables that you should not give to your guinea pig include iceberg lettuce, arugula, cauliflower, chard, potato and radishes.
    • A guinea pig needs about a cup of vegetables per day. Divide the vegetables into two portions, as guinea pigs are grazers who prefer to nibble throughout the day rather than eat a large meal once a day.
  4. Do not overfeed your guinea pigs. A healthy guinea pig does not need kibble. But if your guinea pigs are already used to eating them, slowly get them used to a healthier diet. Ask your vet for advice.
    • If your guinea pig is sick, give it good quality kibble. For guinea pigs over 6 months, Supreme Science Selective Guinea Pig is a good choice. Ask your vet for advice on younger guinea pigs.
    • Do not give treats intended for rabbits or other rodents - the vitamin composition is different and can be harmful to your guinea pig!
    • If you do want to give treats, make sure there are no seeds in them so that your guinea pig cannot choke on them.
  5. Do not feed your guinea pig any other food. Chunks, hay and fresh vegetables are all guinea pigs need. Feeding them other things can be very harmful to the health of your guinea pigs.

Part 3 of 4: Move and play

  1. Let your guinea pigs run free every day. Have them walk around in a confined space, but make sure that no one can step on them. You can make a run in the room (where you can easily clean the floor), or outside when it's neither too hot nor too cold.
    • Make sure they have enough space in their play area so they can run and play. This playtime is crucial to a guinea pig's happiness.
    • Provide a number of toys and tunnels in the playground.
    • Be extra careful if you let your guinea pigs run around outside. Keep them always keep an eye out: they can escape through small openings and they can be attacked by cats or birds of prey.
  2. Provide your guinea pig with plenty of toys and cage accessories. You can make your own toys from boxes, paper bags, oatmeal packs, flyers and more. Be creative and use materials from around the house.
  3. Get in touch with your guinea pig several times a day. Guinea pigs are social animals by nature, they live in herds / groups in the wild. It is essential to your guinea pig's happiness to give it attention every day. Talk to your guinea pig, cuddle it, pick it up and pet it as often as possible, and reserve enough time to play with your guinea pig.
    • In some countries, such as the US, it is illegal to buy loose guinea pigs --- you have to buy them in pairs. Guinea pigs benefit greatly from the company of a fellow guinea pig.
    • Guinea pigs can show symptoms of depression (loss of appetite, listlessness, etc.) if you give them too little attention.
    • Guinea pigs are very smart. You can teach them to stand on their hind legs, turn around, jump and much more!

Part 4 of 4: Keeping guinea pigs clean and healthy

  1. Keep your guinea pig's cage clean. Guinea pigs are fairly clean on their own, so try to clean the cage at least twice a week, removing poo and food scraps, cleaning the water bottle, and putting more hay in the cage. It is useful to reserve two fixed days a week for this.
  2. Clean the cage thoroughly at least once a week. How often you need to clean thoroughly depends on the type of bottom layer and the number of guinea pigs you have.
    • Remove and dispose of all debris, bedding, food and toys or clean them with a guinea pig-friendly antibacterial spray, but make sure there are no cleaning residues left when you put it back in the cage. Do not use cleaning products made for humans.
    • Brush the inside of the cage with guinea pig-friendly antibacterial spray, but you can also use plain water and sunlight to kill bacteria naturally. It is a good idea to let the cage air out for a while.
    • Now replace the underlay. It is usually helpful to put a layer of newspaper under your underlay to avoid urine stains. You shouldn't just use newspapers as a base, and the guinea pigs shouldn't be able to reach the newspapers, otherwise they could ingest ink.
    • You can use CareFresh or Ecobed, moisture-wicking fleece towels, or hemp or corn bedding
    • Do not use wood fibers or sawdust as a substrate. Also, do not use a cedar or conifer substrate, as both contain harmful phenols.
    • Fleece towels can also be used as a surface - shake off the dirt, put them in the washing machine and use them again. Watch out for loose wires, because guinea pigs can get caught there with their legs.
    • Make sure you have a place to sleep for your guinea pig - you can buy igloos at most pet stores, or you can give them loose hay to burrow in.
  3. Trim their nails every few weeks. If they have dark nails, shine a flashlight behind them so you can see where to cut. Cutting too close to the blood vessel can cause the nail to bleed. Use styptic alum powder or flour to stop the bleeding.
    • If you are unsure about clipping your nails, it is best to have a vet trim the nails the first time - the vet can cut them for you and show you how to do it.
  4. Don't bathe your guinea pigs too often. You can bathe your guinea pigs, but it disrupts their natural body processes, so don't do it more than a few times a year.
  5. Watch for symptoms of illness. Know what to look for in a sick guinea pig. Take your guinea pig to a specialist vet for proper treatment. Always pay attention to even the smallest changes, as guinea pigs are particularly good at hiding disease.
    • Make sure all guinea pigs are treated at the same time, as some diseases spread from a guinea pig to its cage mates.
  6. Periodically check the genitals of male guinea pigs as they can become blocked. You can just massage the area a little and if there is any poopy stuff on it, gently clean it with a cotton swab. Also make sure that no poo is stuck in his poo hole.
  7. Do not put your guinea pigs in a cage with rabbits or let them play together. Rabbits naturally carry a bacteria that can make guinea pigs very sick, and rabbits are bigger, stronger animals. Even a playful kick from a rabbit can kill a guinea pig.
  8. Weigh your guinea pig every week to see if they are not losing weight, which could be a symptom of illness or dental problems. A weight fluctuation of up to 50 grams is normal, but increasing it can indicate serious health problems. A digital kitchen scale works best for this.

Tips

  • Guinea pigs need a cozy place to sleep, where they feel safe.
  • Guinea pigs gnaw on everything, so if you let them run loose, get all important papers, books, etc. away.
  • Guinea pigs eat their own poo; this is called coprophagy and is normal. You may see them turn their backs to their butt, but rest assured. When they eat their poop, they get important nutrients from the bacteria in their intestines.
  • If your guinea pig suddenly jumps in the air or quickly twists its neck with a jump, it has no seizure. "Popcorn" can indicate happiness or an attempt to get rid of excess energy, much like a cat who suddenly has the urge to run around the house.
  • Free-roaming guinea pigs enjoy their eating and drinking area more when it is under a low table (Guinea pigs are always anxious with too much open space above their heads). You should also put an underlayment under low furniture for sleeping places. And while they don't gnaw on live wires as much as rabbits, you should keep wires away from their favorite spots (WARNING: they seem interested in thin wires, such as from phone chargers).
  • Make sure you have at least a soft place for your guinea pig.
  • You can help save guinea pigs by going to a nearby pet store. Make sure they all have food and water and don't look sick. If so, notify the store owner immediately.
  • Guinea pigs are very social creatures. Give them lots of love, but don't be strict or impatient if your guinea pig doesn't want to get to you.
  • Unless you are breeding guinea pigs, you should not group guinea pigs of different sexes together. You can keep them together if one or both has been spayed or neutered.
  • Some people let their guinea pigs roam the house. They stay in one room and develop favorite "routes". Free-roaming guinea pigs are happier and stronger.
  • Place them on the ground with a secure fence for their daily exercise. Guinea pigs like to run. Keep in mind that they can gnaw on live wires, and don't forget to keep a close eye on them when outside their cage.
  • Guinea pigs should have nice cages with lots of fun toys and other items. For example, trays, tunnels, chew toys, hay toys, etc. Imagine living in a house with nothing to do! Treat them with care, love and respect!

Warnings

  • Guinea pigs hide symptoms of illness until they are very sick. If a guinea pig has symptoms of illness, it can get worse quickly, they can even die quickly. Get to the vet as soon as possible!
  • If you notice that your guinea pig has scabs on the eyes or nose, this could indicate a respiratory infection, and you should very quick to the vet.
  • Always clean the cage every three days when using straw as an underlay as it can contain maggots. If you use straw, make sure it is not too hard, as sharp straws can injure guinea pigs' eyes.
  • Do not feed guinea pigs potatoes, onions, leeks, tomato plant leaves, chocolate, corn, wheat, dairy, meat, mushrooms, junk food, alcohol, or iceberg lettuce.
  • Guinea pigs run fast, and they can outrun you if you let them out of their cage, so watch out! Make sure their run is properly closed so they cannot escape or be endangered.
  • Take advice from people at the pet store with a grain of salt. Most have no special training and do not know what is best for guinea pigs.
  • Never use sawdust or a corn base. Never use plastic in the cage as guinea pigs will gnaw on it and choke on the bitten off pieces.
  • Never leave a guinea pig alone in high places. They can break their legs in the event of a fall.
  • If you are grassing them, make sure there are no chemicals in them. And, the fresher the better!
  • Clean your guinea pig's cage regularly.
  • Avoid commercial snacks and toys. Many of them are unhealthy for guinea pigs, so avoid them and feed healthy snacks like fruit or carrots in small amounts once or twice a week.
  • Remember there is a surplus of guinea pigs. Many of them are waiting for a good home in the shelter. Adopt your guinea pigs instead of buying them, and don't contribute to overpopulation by breeding.