Content

• To step
• Part 1 of 3: Remove old branches
• Part 2 of 3: Cutting the tree
• Part 3 of 3: Shaping the tree
• Warnings
• Necessities

Pruning your pear tree every year will promote its growth and yield, while also protecting it from infection. Prune in winter and remove the oldest branches from the tree. Thin the tree into a pleasant and suitable shape to keep the tree in good condition and healthy.

To step

Part 1 of 3: Remove old branches

1. Prune any dead or damaged branches. Dead, damaged or diseased wood must be removed from the source of the damage. This could mean cutting a very large area if it's all damaged or dead. A damaged or dead spot can be recognized by the lack of leaves during the growing season when the rest of the tree is in bloom.
   • One of the few times you can prune the tree in the spring or summer is when you need to remove dead or damaged branches.
2. Cut off the shoots emerging from the base of the trunk. The shoots that grow down from the main trunk close to the bottom of the tree are called "offshoots" and are actually part of the roots, not the top fruit set. They are for nothing on your pear tree.
   • Prune these shoots at the origin against the trunk.
3. Remove the straight vertical shoots emerging from the main branches. If you see suspiciously straight and vertical shoots growing from a branch of your tree, they are "water germs". They look different from other branches because they emerge from the main branches, are not crooked, are somewhat short, and grow straight up towards the sky.
   • Water germs are of no use to the tree and should be cut where they start to grow on the main branch.
4. Do not cut fruit-bearing offshoots. Fruit-bearing offshoots grow on branches originally grown two years earlier, so you don't have to worry about that with very young trees. They look like smaller curved branches growing out of a main branch, with small bud-like shapes or fruit buds on the end.
   • Fruit-bearing runners usually take one or two years to grow fruit.The year after fruiting, one or two more fruit buds will appear in that spot.
   • After six or seven years, the offshoot becomes clogged with fruit buds and you can prune them to grow new fruit-bearing offshoots elsewhere. The only other reason to cut them is if the branch is dead or damaged.

Part 2 of 3: Cutting the tree

1. Prune in winter and on a dry day. It is best to prune the pear tree during its dormant season before it begins to actively grow again in the spring, as the tree will put more energy into growing where it was pruned. By pruning during this time when there are no leaves on the tree, you can also see better what you are doing.
   • You should also choose a dry day to prune your pear tree. If it rains or snows when you cut the tree, there is a higher chance of infection in the wet cuts.
2. Get sharp and clean scissors or a pruning saw. If the scissors or saw are old and you are not sure whether it is sharp, you can sharpen it yourself or have it sharpened at a hardware store for a small fee. To clean the scissors or saw yourself, soak the blades in isopropyl alcohol for 30 seconds to disinfect it, then wipe dry with a clean towel.
3. Make angled cuts flush with the branches. Slightly slanted cuts will help prevent water from entering the cut and causing the branch to become infected. You should also cut right against the larger branch from which the branch you are removing grows.
   • Do not leave small stubs when you cut. Make a neat and angled cut against the larger branch.
4. Cut 10 to 20% of the tree every year. If the tree is healthy, try to remove 10 to 20% of all treetops in a year. This means more to the older trees and not much at all to younger trees. Pruning the tree too hard can cause powerful upright branches called water germs to grow which will crowd out the tree.
   • If the pile of pruned branches looks a bit large, or is larger than 10 to 20% of the tree, it is time to stop immediately. Wait until next year to prune more.

Part 3 of 3: Shaping the tree

1. Try to obtain a wine glass shape with evenly distributed branches. A pear tree should normally be in the shape of a wine glass, with the trunk like the glass stem and the branches in an even and spread outward growth. Leave about 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) of empty space between healthy branches to ensure good air flow and to reduce the risk of fungal infections.
   • Every now and then, take a step back and look at the overall shape of the tree as you prune to make sure you're getting the right shape and effectively clearing up the very mature spots.
2. Remove the branches that grow down. The branches of the pear tree should grow outward and slightly upward. If there are branches growing downward, prune them at the starting point on the larger branch.
   • The intention is to have a tree with evenly spaced branches that extend from the center in a pleasing visual pattern.
3. Prune the branches that grow toward the center of your tree. Branches growing against the main flow of outward and upward branches will crowd out the other branches and create an overall chaotic look in the tree. Prune these branches at the starting point on the larger branch.
4. Thin out competing branches. If you find two or more branches growing at a narrow angle from the same spot, or growing parallel from different points and floating towards each other, keep the healthiest branch and prune the rest.
   • The branch you are holding should also have the best angle at the starting point, which should be roughly at an angle like the hands on a clock at 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock from the center of the tree. Branches with wider angles can break easily when bearing fruit.

Warnings

• Follow all safety precautions and instructions when using a pruning saw. Always wear safety equipment, including eye protection, boots, long pants and long sleeves.

Necessities

• Sharp and clean pruning shears or saw
• Ladder