Content

• Advice
• Warning

• Galvanized metal roofing sheets. Fold the top edge of the roofing sheet to avoid dangerous sharp edges.
• Two layers of HDPE plastic sheet, The overlapping sections of the barrier must be at least 30 cm wide so that the roots do not slip through. You can sometimes apply for it at the feed stores
• For best results, purchase commercially available root barriers that have been treated with an herbicide. The compound trifluralin is a popular choice and is unlikely to harm the surrounding plants.

Kill the suckling roots with herbicides. Some plants respond to root cuts or other damage by growing more root tips from the existing root system. To selectively destroy these roots, you must cut off the roots so that the herbicide does not spread to the main plant. Carefully spray herbicides containing glyphosate or triclopyr amine onto the suckling roots so that they do not stick to nearby plants. Many species of plants have very vigorous development of the rootlets. If you do not want to kill the whole plant, you will have to repeat this process or dig the roots manually occasionally.

• If you have cut the trunk but the suckling roots are still growing in the yard, the only option at this time might be to use a herbicide with large leaves. This drug will kill any plants in that area. You need to repeat this method every time the roots are present until the roots have run out of nutrients.

Replace damaged pavement with crushed stone or mulch. You will find it very difficult to kill the roots of a big tree that grows on the ground while preserving the tree. If you don't want the plant to die, you can pave the top surface so that the plant won't penetrate. This does not kill the roots, and does not protect the garden or drainage pipes from invading the roots.

• Carefully remove damaged concrete and do your best to avoid damaging the roots.
• Cover the geotextile area with plant roots. Leave a space of 15 cm around the base of the tree, for large trees the space should be 30 cm wide.
• Spread on the ground a layer of aggregate (a type of crushed rock) about 7.5–10 cm thick or 15–20 cm coarse coating. The coating will be less effective and can be washed away when it rains.
• Use stone to block the contour of the coating material to prevent it from moving.

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Method 2 of 5: Treat plant roots in drainage pipes

1. 

   
   
   Pour copper sulfate or rock salt down the toilet. This is the easiest, but at risk of killing any plants or other plants around. Flush either of the above products onto the toilet bowl (do not pour into the sink or tub) in batches of 250 g or less until 1 kg is reached. Avoid letting water run into the drain for 8-12 hours to give the salt enough time to hit the roots. Follow safe use instructions on the packaging.
   Both of these chemicals can cause serious harm to aquatic organisms. Maybe the country or region you live in has regulations for the use of these chemicals, especially near water treatment plants.

2. 

   Treat drains with a foaming herbicide. The foaming herbicide will fill the tube and decompose slowly, so this is the best option for killing plant roots in a drain. Contact herbicides will quickly kill the roots, while the endospermatic herbicide may take several weeks to take effect, but will kill the entire plant. The consistency of the foam should be appropriate for different tube sizes, so please read the usage label before buying.
   • Some herbicides are toxic to fish or other animals. A product's label often lists the product's environmental impact and can provide information on how to mitigate that impact.
   • For optimal results, hire a professional plumber when using sodium metham. This is a corrosive chemical, requiring the user to be trained and have safe facilities.

3. 

   
   
   Repair the drain hose. Unless you are ready to repeat this method on a regular basis, you need to fix the recently cleared drains to prevent the roots from regrowth. You will have less digging and less disturbance if you create a lining inside the tube, but it is usually less expensive to replace a new tube.
   • You may also need to remove or move large trees that grow near the drain, otherwise the roots will continue to grow into the pipe.
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Method 3 of 5: Mechanical removal of the tree or stump

1. 

   Cut the tree and leave the stump. If you still have to cut the tree, cut it so that there is a stump about 90-120 cm above the ground. This way, you will have a piece of tree enough to cling to when you pull the stump out of the ground.
   Warning: Cutting down trees is a very dangerous job. If you do not have the right experience and tools, the tree may fall in an unintended direction. You should hire a professional service if you haven't done this before.

2. 

   Dig the stump. Use a shovel, pickaxe, or excavator to dig around the base of the tree. Use an ax or a saw to cut off the largest roots when the roots are exposed. Dig within a radius of about 1.2 m around the base of the plant or sufficient to cut off the main roots.
   • Before you place the chain saw on the roots of the tree, you should place a board underneath to protect the saw from rock and soil.
   • Once you've been digging for a while, use a hose or a high-pressure hose to spray the area where you're digging to reveal more roots.

3. 

   Attach the winch to the stump. Most of the stumps are so firmly planted in the ground that it is impossible to use the levers of a lever, especially newly cut trees. Attach a hand winch to a tree stump or tie it to a truck.

4. 

   Pull the winch slowly. Even the hand-crank winch can send the stump away with tremendous force when bounced off the ground. Take the winch slowly in short intervals to avoid this risk. If using a truck, move alternately back and forth. It is best to gradually loosen the stump and lean back gently.

5. 

   Crush the stump if necessary. Some large stumps will not budge even when you use the winch. For these stumps, you need to hire a stump mill (or hire a stump mill). These machines are quite dangerous to use, so you need to wear goggles and ask the rental site for instructions. Here is the basic process:
   • Remove any gravel that could damage the crusher near the base of the tree.
   • Place the mill saw blade about 10 cm from the top edge of the stump.
   • Turn on the machine and slowly lower the blade down onto the stump about 7.5 cm deep.
   • Slowly move the blade to the sides to cut off the stump to a depth of about 10 cm. Repeat this for the next part of the stump until it is equal to the previous one.
   • Continue doing this until the entire stump has been dug at least 20-25 cm below the ground or deeper if you want to plant a new plant.

6. 

   Fill the hole with soil. Pull the remaining roots out of the hole and fill the hole with soil. Sow the grass seeds on the ground, water it, and you'll have an area with no trees that blends in with the rest of your yard. These roots will stop growing and eventually decompose. advertisement

Method 4 of 5: Kill the stump with herbicide

1. 

   Know the risks. The roots of several plants of the same species often grow intertwined when they meet. This means that the herbicide used on one oak tree could spread over the roots of other oak trees in the same area and kill them. The above phenomenon is more likely to occur with "colony" trees, including deciduous poplar and acacia.

2. 

   Apply herbicide to the stump. This will prevent all or most of the roots from spreading and developing root tips after they have been cut. This requires a new section, but if you have just cut the tree within a few weeks, you can create a new section:
   • Cut the stump close to the ground. Try to keep the section as level as possible so that the herbicide does not drip onto the ground. Clean the sawdust.
   • Use an old paint brush to apply the herbicide to the inside of the hull. This is where living tissue is capable of leading herbicides down to the roots.
   • Dispose of brush and herbicide bottle in a safe place.
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Method 5 of 5: Spray the herbicide on the trunk

1. 

   Kill plants with herbicides. This is the easiest alternative to felling, although it may not be safe if the branch falls down the path. Also, this approach may not be as effective in spring on sap-rich plants, as the herbicide is often repelled. If neither of the above cases is concerned, you can use an herbicide with the "cut and pump" method:
   • Cut down the trunk at a 45 degree angle to form a sharp angle.
   • Use a spray with a small nozzle that can be inserted into the sharp angle just cut on the trunk. Pump in a little herbicide, trying not to let it spill over the cut.
   • Read the instructions on the herbicide bottle label to see how many marks need to be cut and how much medication to inject into each cut (usually only 1 ml or less).
   • For some plants with strong vitality, you may need to peel the bark around the trunk and spray the exposed wood.

2. 

   Eliminate dead plants. After a few days or weeks, the branches will begin to deteriorate and fall. Remove and discard dead branches that have left the tree.
   • In some plants or root systems, you may have to apply several coats of herbicides to get into the wood. If the plant is still alive, check the prescription label for instructions on repeated use. You need to peel a new layer of wood before each herbicide application.

3. 

   Remove the stump. Once the tree is dead, you can use a shovel or a digger to dig up the stump. Remember that it can take years for the tree to decompose on its own, so you may not want to wait. Be sure to completely remove the stump to prevent the roots from regrowing. advertisement

Advice

• For plant maintenance, it is important to keep a balance between the top of the plant and the root system. If you cut the roots near the stem (within about 1 meter), up to a quarter of the root system could be destroyed. This is why killing the roots often kills the whole plant.
• To avoid troublesome root problems, research the plants that do well in your area before planting, especially about their root systems. Certain species of trees, such as saplings and maple trees, often cause root problems, and should not be planted near homes or along sidewalks.
• There are many ways to kill the tree or stump, but it is very slow or ineffective in controlling the roots:
  • Peel a ring around the stem to cut off the flow of nutrients from the leaves to the roots. Unless combined with an herbicide, this can take years to kill large trees.
  • Burying the roots around the trunk under the leaf mulch leaves the plant vulnerable and stressed, but it can take years to kill the plant.
  • Burning stump or burying the stump in compost or fertilizer are slow ways to get rid of the tree. For example, stump burning will take longer than some other methods because you will have to wait for the stump to dry.

Warning

• Some gardeners advise adding salt to the soil to kill the roots, but this will also kill all the trees in the area and possibly contaminate the groundwater.
• When large roots are cut off, a living tree can be blown away by strong winds.
• Herbicides can cause damage to the skin and lungs, especially in concentrated form. Follow the first aid instructions printed on the label in the event of a spillage.
• The herbicide can be washed away if it rains within 6 hours of use.